Grand Theft Auto

[J Cooper]

well being dead week and all i got kinda bored....

pulled the projection off and the DUI dist. and putting it on ebay along with my spare projection setup


and got even more bored today so i did this.....

[mudtoy67]

Very nice! :gigem:

[uglyota]

Belly nice!
let's see those notches ;)

[J Cooper]

Belly nice!
let's see those notches ;)

notches are clean.... it did it right..... ok two didnt match but i filled them in good :flipoff2:

[aggieblazer07]

nice :gigem:

[davido]

Kick ass. Man you definitely get my vote for the "Scott Schubring, just ****ing get it done" Award.

[J Cooper]

Kick ass. Man you definitely get my vote for the "Scott Schubring, just ****ing get it done" Award.

thanks... next is front bumper with hoop and rear bumper with swing out carrier and then stuff for the charlie truck while i wait on what i need to get jeep running on GM stuff and change suspention ...... guess i need to paint the truck some time too and change out gears

damn i need a job :flipoff2:

[TxCruzr]

Just sell crack...heard that business makes money :confused2
Looks great :cool:
But of course to be claimed officially finished you must roll it in the front yard...give me a call and let me know when :D

[uglyota]

or down into the creekbed. I'll spot!

[J Cooper]

just update on stuff getting ready for clayon

got fenders cut down for TJ flares
new carb with electric fuel pump, new distributor.
got cage painted and installed... need to add a couple things to it.
got new steering
wheel spacers
rock lights rewired
coors tap shifter :gigem:

need to do:
add a couple things to cage -- mirror mount, light, couple extra braces
fix tranny leak --- leaked after being parked all summer
new power steering pump -- blew it out at TCC
make rear bumper so i can have a spare tire.
put tool box from truck in back of jeep
fix winch
put in taurus fan
put switch on electric fan
find some shocks for the rear
paint flares black

[J Cooper]

more.

[J Cooper]

more... plus a shot of a leg injury from thanksgiving

[davido]

I saw the cage when I came by. That maroon really makes it pop! (gay decorating term) Speaking of, you really have to stop blowing guys when you go home. I don't think your knees can take much more of that. :flipoff2:

[J Cooper]

That maroon really makes it pop! (gay decorating term)


does that mean it looks stupid???



Speaking of, you really have to stop blowing guys when you go home. I don't think your knees can take much more of that. :flipoff2:

and you know i stayed up here... did you forget already :flipoff2:

[davido]

No, I think it looks sweet.

[agjohn02]

it looks good. "pop" is a good term... or so jimmy tells me.

[J Cooper]

got them painted and bretts lights put in.

need to get a rear bumper made so i can have a spare tire

[J Cooper]

so i am going to try and make a rear bumper for clayton so that i can take my spare tire with me... i have the tube to make the bumper its self and i have a trailer axle to make a swing out carrier


but for those of you that have done this before how exactly have you done it?

like how do you cut down the hub to not **** it up and what do you use for the latch on the other side and ect.??

let me know what you guys think... if i decide to do this im going to do it on tues most likely

[J Cooper]

http://www.wildyoats.com/swing_out_tire_carrier.htm

thinking something simple like this... and have the spare spindle and hub as the tire mount

[CheapJeep]

On another note, I just saw a setup in 4wheel to address the bikini top issue. I'll show it to you later, I got an idea of how to make your's work.

[J Cooper]

or should i just wait till after clayton and not do it ghetto and just buy something nice like this for $45 and be done with it?

still dont know where to find the latch though

http://www.rocklogic4x4.com/store/images/products/spindle.jpg

[CRaSHnBuRN]

how are you going to do the latch? I like the way this was done, pretty simple http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/rear_bumper/rearbumper.htm

as for the spindle, I don't know what to say. If I have time tonight I'll try to see what I can find

[J Cooper]

cool thanks

looks cool but how the hell does this work??
http://cache1.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/rear_bumper/993locking_pin.jpg

[CRaSHnBuRN]

****, now that I look at it better, I don't know?

As for the bearing thing, could this work?

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2005121201023934&item=1-2706&catname=trailer

[CRaSHnBuRN]

okay, I got it. You stick the pin in through the top, and then you cross pin it at the bottom. See the wire going down there and the little bit of the pin showing at the bottom? The spring at the top just keeps it from rattling

[CRaSHnBuRN]

latches

http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?UID=2005121201023934&catname=trailer&byKeyword=yes&search=latch

[73bronco]

You need to take a look at my setup Coop, cost me about $30 at TSC. All it is is a trailer hub and then a 5/8 pin with metal bushings to latch it.

[bburris]

got them painted and bretts lights put in.
Are those my turn signals and guards??? HAHAHAHAHA - I took them off because they were too poser-ish/gay...I guess you didn't think so. :flipoff2:

[JeepPhisherman]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=43594

might even have it at the local store

[stx4wheeler]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=43594

might even have it at the local store

that would prolly work, and it is cheap as hell, if you put it on there and hated it, you could scrap it and do something else,and be out almost no money.

[AggieTJ2007]

yep, those are yours, and your lights, I gave them to him for delivery of the fenders,

Reminds me, pay for fenders

[JeepPhisherman]

that would prolly work, and it is cheap as hell, if you put it on there and hated it, you could scrap it and do something else,and be out almost no money.

thats why i posted it, im a genius

its what i was planning on using on the rear for my xj because the clamp is adjustable, so you can put it pretty much wherever you want, you can tighten it up so much that you cant open it w/out tools (as a theft deturent), and its cheap.

[JeepPhisherman]

ive got some bigger, wider, old warn 4x flares at the house if anyone wants them

[J Cooper]

I took them off because they were too poser-ish/gay...I guess you didn't think so. :flipoff2:

i figured its better than breaking the lights and having to buy new ones

[J Cooper]

well if i can find everything here in town with out being ghetto-nasty i may do it.

ill have to come check out your rear bumper to see what you got

[J Cooper]

who has a 1 3/4 bender set up in town? i actually wanted to do the swing out part in tube.

[bburris]

This is true. Tell me how they hold up in Clayton.

[TxCruzr]

i figured its better than breaking the lights and having to buy new ones

Yeah, whatever you say coop. Whens the chrome gonna start popping up :flipoff2:
I'm not sure about the fronts, but I can vouch that the rear flares can be smashed completely flat with the weight of a truck on them and they pop back out fine. Go test the fronts in clayton :gigem:

[J Cooper]

Yeah, whatever you say coop. Whens the chrome gonna start popping up :flipoff2:

as soon as your jeep is back on the trail :eek: :flipoff2:

[CheapJeep]

as soon as your jeep is back on the trail :eek: :flipoff2:
OWNED!!! :flipoff2:

[agjohn02]

the trailer spindles are at tsc and the latch that garret posted is the one to use. after much planning this is the route i will take when i get around to it.

[J Cooper]

ya i have 2 spindles already and i saw the hubs at TSC yesterday... i just didnt know where to get a latch.. looks like harbor feight has them

[Ben97XJ]

This is what i used. Scroll the the bottom of the page.
hinge (http://www.troutindustries.com/Store.html)

[agjohn02]

This is what i used. Scroll the the bottom of the page.
hinge (http://www.troutindustries.com/Store.html)


yeah, this is my plan. i dont think its a good idea to use a cast hub for the hinge if you're going to weld it on.

[jerryg79]

yeah, this is my plan. i dont think its a good idea to use a cast hub for the hinge if you're going to weld it on.

yeah that didnt really work out so well for krebs

[J Cooper]

done... looks pimp as ****... robbie helped me out today and we got it done over at brandons shop... then the angry ford electric fuel pump (same one from projection) made the jeep not want to go home (still blowing through regulators and flooding)... so ill be replacing pump in the morning to bring it home... and ill post up pics.

[AggieTJ2007]

sweet, now we need some pictures

[J Cooper]

here you go

[AggieTJ2007]

looks sweet

[J Cooper]

got the new bling installed today


ill move the box under the hood later

before

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album75/DSCF0001.jpg

after


http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album238/IMG_0420.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album238/IMG_0417.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album238/IMG_0418.jpg

[AggieTJ2007]

what did you do with the old one?

[J Cooper]

i have it still

[CheapJeep]

Shazaam! Man that looks pimp. Where were you? I really could've used you today... :gigem:

[Seth]

how much for the old one?

[uglyota]

sweet...you gonna be workin on shiat today? I could use a driveway and welder to fix my exhaust :D

[J Cooper]

ya ill be out there... fixing the rear bumper


and the old one needs a new motor... not really its actually only a tiny piece of metal but ramsey doesnt sell just parts... you have to buy a new $200 motor

[robertf03]

ya ill be out there... fixing the rear bumper


and the old one needs a new motor... not really its actually only a tiny piece of metal but ramsey doesnt sell just parts... you have to buy a new $200 motor


have you tried getting it rebuilt? theres a place in richardson that can do it for 100.

[J Cooper]

its just a brush and a lead... i tried to fix it but there was no way to make the lead stay in there... guess you would have to see it. its really simple its just there are no parts like a warn to just go a rebuilt it real quick... like seriously its like $2 in parts. you just cant tighten down the positive side of the winch so it sparks and then stops working... but ya im going to hold onto it and see if i can fix it then decide what to do with it... CJ has first dibs for his jeep

[bburris]

Try calling a place that rebuilds them. I'd bet that they would have plenty of spare parts laying around. Anyone that rebuilds alternators or small electric motors can take care of it. That's how Blake's has been rebuilt three times after it catches on fire.

[agjohn02]

take it to bryan alternator. i bet they can fix it.

[J Cooper]

ok time to stop being shaddy.

those that went to clayton saw that i changed a few things up.
i did not add anything to the build thread because we put it together pretty quick... and honestly i could care less about what you think :flipoff2:

so this is a reverse build thread.


these are the axles i found from "tiger"
axles from a 84' M-1010 CUVU ambulance
front dana 60 w/4.56 gears
rear 10.5 14 bolt w/4.56 gears and a 35 spline detroit.

[J Cooper]

these sat at carls house for about a year while i still lived in an apartment... i came and picked them up over the summer to find that they had not become bass habitats.

so i tore them down around sept... just whenever i got around to it

[J Cooper]

ordered a couple brackets to do rear disk brakes from ballistic fab $25
disk brakes are from a 77 k30 front

[J Cooper]

there was alot of old brackets and stuff welded to this thing.... i swear i spent a couple weeks getting this stuff off (30 min a day in 110 degrees)

so about october i was staring at that one axle with 2 brackets mocked up (not even welded yet) and desided that i wanted to go to clayton.
the last time the jeep was out was clayton 06!!

so i just started ordering parts

[J Cooper]

more parts

[J Cooper]

quick comparison

left to right
stock dana 30 shaft, stock 30spline 60, 35 spline chromo shaft

[J Cooper]

some more parts... including how to fix a bumper

(will add names of parts later)

[J Cooper]

rear axle cleaned up, brackets welded and springs mocked up.

[J Cooper]

front end mocked up, ram mount, steering, lower king pin caps

[J Cooper]

november 16.

front axle removed and axles mocked up

[J Cooper]

front spring mounts made out of some box tube
shackle reversal, outboard spring hangars, reinforce ****ty frame up front and hides bolts inside bumper

[J Cooper]

more spring hangars

[J Cooper]

front shackle hangars
the cj frame width was right in the middle of being able to to hang directly under the frame and outboarding the hangars... so i just went through the frame and made some spacers

[J Cooper]

bumper mod to fit springs inside and final front mock up

[J Cooper]

rear tear down, interior tear down and rear corners cut

[J Cooper]

more tear down

[J Cooper]

rear axle tear down

[J Cooper]

frame notch to recess spring hangars

(dont mind the plug weld)

[J Cooper]

rear shackle hangars and springs mocked up

[J Cooper]

final mock up

... and how to install a transmission.
1 weld tube to plate
2 insert on jack
3 add large size brake drum
4 install

[J Cooper]

anti wrap bar cross member and mount on axle.

i actually ended up redoing this by welding the tube to the bottom of the two bushings so that i could run exhaust and i could later replace with flat skid

[J Cooper]

the following all took place the week before clayton... so the pictures that i do have might be mixed up a little.
i will take pics of whatever i did not take pics of before the trip and add them later this week

yj brakes (custom bracket--- will fix later)

new meats 42" TSL on H2 rims

[J Cooper]

winch, steering, driveshafts..... everything else

[J Cooper]

more stuff

(will get better pics)

[J Cooper]

more pics, shims, shock hoops, drive shafts, fenders

i think this was december 10th

[J Cooper]

more ...

[J Cooper]

more... about 2 am of the 11th

[J Cooper]

couple more including stupid ram mount

[J Cooper]

on thurs, we finally mounted the gas tank, blead the brakes and steering and mounted the tires... drove it on to the trailer with no exhaust = awesome!!

left houston at 9:15 after picking up cjs trailer.
got to dallas about 1 am
crashed
woke up
took to get exhaust put on
****ed off and drank beer in addison
left dallas at 3 got to clayton at 7.
took it off trailer
drove it to a&a
... it worked.

[J Cooper]

here are a couple gay poser shots from clayton
i took it easy to make sure everything worked... did great except i shot out a motor mount bolt (one bolt i did not check) so we had to ratchet strap it down... this caused the gay jeep shift linkage to pop out when in a bind... no big deal i had a pit crew.

so on my way to find the cool kids and do some real wheeling sophia sheared off my ram mount bolt (grade 8 5/8") she only drove like 30 feet
:flipoff2:
it was actually that ****ty design noted in previous post... so we put a new bolt in and messed around some more.

other than that it kicked ass

[J Cooper]

i will get pics of the exhaust, brakes, "fuel cell", new fuel lines and brake lines, and whatever else i did those last couple of days and get them posted

specs

85 CJ7 LAREDO
304 AMC V8 - bored over .30, cam, motorcraft carb with electric fuel pump
TF 999 auto trans
Dana 300 t-case -1310 yokes, CV rear
108" wheel base
42x15x17 TSL
17" H2 rims
12k lbs mile marker winch

front
--- 84 cucv gm dana 60, full rebuild, 35 spline carrier-- welded, 4.56 gears, 35 spline 4340 chromo shafts, 35spline warn premium hubs, ballistic fab high steer arms- no kingpin spring, 7/8" TRE's, .250 wall DOM steering, all new brakes, 1350 yoke, ballistic fab 3/8" diff cover.
rear
---84 cucv gm 10.5" 14bolt, full rebuild, 35 spine carrier, detroit locker, 4.56 gears, disk brakes from a 77 k30 front, ballistic fab 3/8" diff cover, 1350 yoke.

suspension
--rancho 44044 spings, bilstein 12 travel shocks (22" ride hight), 6" shackles, hangers all recessed, 8 deg rebicon express shims up front, .250 wall DOM antiwrap bar rear.

driveshafts
--- houston drivetrain
front-- extra long splines, 1350 axle end, 1350-1310 t-case end 37 1/2" ride length
rear -- 1350 axle end, 1310 cv t-case end 30 1/2" ride length

steering
---PSC full hydraulic steering. 2.5" single ended ram, p-pump and external cooler-under bumper.
.250 wall DOM tie rod with 7/8" TREs

blue torch fab front bumper--modified, BTF flat fender kit and comp corners.

YJ master cylinder and brake booster-
4 wheel disk with line lock front. 3/16 to 4an lines

stock gas tank mounted in bed for now
all new fuel lines and brake lines down frame, new fuel pump, all new motor wiring
-----------

ran out of time for taurus electric fan that runs off 2 relay controls (no switches to forget)
rear bumper, paint, lots of grinding, new front shackles, new sliders (boat side style), grill hoop, redo rear brake plumbing


next is either pull motor and clean up for ditch the whole drive drain.
thinking about either old vortec motor, 5.3, 6.0 / nv4500 / stak or dana 300 with 4.1

[J Cooper]

more clayton pics

[J Cooper]

and one old school pic for those of you that remember it this way

back when my 29s were bad dudes!!!

[Sharpe]

Looks like Danny did most of the work :flipoff2:

[J Cooper]

Looks like Danny did most of the ***** work :flipoff2:

he just doesnt know how to use the camera :flipoff2:

[KrazyKarl02]

<redneck voice on>

Sweet, so when we going to the creek?

<redneck voice off>

[CheapJeep]

Pretty quick buildup, look's good!

I like the frenched in the front spring/shackle mounts to help with the pinion angle and ride height. The BTF fullwidth kit I'm using increased the overall front spring arch which caused the negative pinion angle.

You still tearing it back down for paint or just covering things up and touch up the overspray like me? :D

Do you have the contact info for the guy you bought the springs and stuff from in Austin?

[J Cooper]

You still tearing it back down for paint or just covering things up and touch up the overspray like me? :D

Do you have the contact info for the guy you bought the springs and stuff from in Austin?

i will probably pull it apart... have not really thought about it yet.

this is the guy out of austin, i mainly just bought axle rebuild parts from him
pretty cool guy, he can find you anything if you need it
http://www.4wdfactory.biz/

the springs i got from summit
they are just rancho 44044s
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=RAN-RS44044&N=700+115&autoview=sku

[CheapJeep]

Thanks man.

After seeing the 4wdfactory link I remembered that I ordered my 60 rebuild kit from them 2 summers ago. Totally forgot about their site.

I checked some sites for the rancho 44148's that I need but it looks like I'll be special ordering them as no one has them in stock.

Give me a shout when you get back from Port A/Corpus. I'll be hanging out and working on the jeep.

[Graystroke]

I want to see more pics of the calendar on the wall:flipoff2:

[jerryg79]

dear samantha,

I have decided to call of the wedding. I would not like to be married and have to jerk off to pictures of nudie calendars. Seriously, this is like jerking off in the 3rd person. And mr. that's gay.

Sorry for the inconvenience,

JDG

PS. sorry for jacking up your thread coop.

[eight]

I like the location of your steering valve. Looks like it will work with inner fenders too. How many turns lock to lock?

What's the deal with 1350 at the axle ends? Just because that's what the axles had? It seems I replace the axle end more than the other with my 1310s.

[J Cooper]

I like the location of your steering valve. Looks like it will work with inner fenders too. How many turns lock to lock?

What's the deal with 1350 at the axle ends? Just because that's what the axles had? It seems I replace the axle end more than the other with my 1310s.

i think it was like 4 or 5 lock to lock... i did not count

i replaced all 4 yokes.
the 60 had a 1310 on it so i replaced it with a 1350
the 14 had a 1350 with straps so i pu on one with u-bolts
the front 300 had straps so i got one with u-bolts
and i put a cv yoke on the rear of the 300

i did the conversion joint on the front so that if i change t-cases i could just convert to all 1350... that is if the lengths are close enough to match up

[eight]

You want to sell me d60 30 spline stubs? You've seen my spares.

[eight]

Got any displacement or flow specs on that power steering pump you used?

[J Cooper]

this is the pump i used
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/sp1405-8006-hiperformance-pseries-pump-w-can-p-274.html

now that i think about it i think lock to lock was less than 4

this is what i have:

bore 2.5"
shaft dia. 1.5"
length 8"
volume 25.12 -- piston area x stroke
steering force retract 4710
steering force extend 7359
pump pressure 1500

volume of cylinder/ cu in of orbital = turns lock to lock
25.12/7.6 = 3.305

[eight]

At that you have 3.3 turns lock to lock in the retract direction, extending you would have 39.28 cu. in. volume for 5.17 turns. At the moment I think I will be using the double ended 2.5 bore x 1.5 shaft x 8" stroke cylinder. I figure with using the double ended cylinder I will completely avoid the problem you were having with the tie rod twisting and it doesn't cost much more anyway.

[J Cooper]

At that you have 3.3 turns lock to lock in the retract direction, extending you would have 39.28 cu. in. volume for 5.17 turns. At the moment I think I will be using the double ended 2.5 bore x 1.5 shaft x 8" stroke cylinder. I figure with using the double ended cylinder I will completely avoid the problem you were having with the tie rod twisting and it doesn't cost much more anyway.

no that is LOCK TO LOCK.
its only 3.3 turns TOTAL

the only reason i had the problem with the tie rod twisting is because of psc's little adapter... it put all the force 2" away from the tie rod. it has nothing to do with the ram


edit:
wow im an asshole.
so apparently when i was in a hurry ordering parts i just "ordered" that adapter without reading.
i guess i was seeing what i wanted it to read

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/bktr01-heim-joint-tie-rod-drag-link-adapter-p-453.html

its not a "ram mount" its a draglink-tierod adapter.


:rolleyes:

[mudtoy67]

drag link / hydraulic ram....I don't see why it would make a difference. In fact, I think the drag link would be worse cause it's most likely not coming in parallel to the tie rod like a ram would.

[J Cooper]

.. not coming in parallel to the tie rod like a ram would.

thats another factor in the added force that bolt had.

i need to bring that ram mount back about another inch or so.
it is not perfectly parallel right now.

[J Cooper]

You still tearing it back down for paint or just covering things up and touch up the overspray like me? :D



i think i should jump on at least putting some primer on these bare parts and move it back in the garage

this lovely houston weather since clayton has put a nice patina on all the parts :gigem:

[J Cooper]

front brake lines
the adapters from the caliper to 4AN line were $25!!!

[J Cooper]

exhaust
2.5" w/turbo muffler--- muffler guy snuck that in on me. i like the way it sounds though

not sure what to do about the tail pipe in the back though
you can not see any of it unless you crawl under the jeep... so i guess its fine how it is.

(do not look at dannys fuel pump wiring job--- that was 7pm on friday IN clayton on the trailer) we picked it up on the way to replace the old one that went bad

i think he was ready to start drinking :flipoff2:

[DRAGOONRANCH]

more ...

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14803&stc=1&d=1229962096

I don't know if the picture linked, but is the bevel on the arm in the picture (looks to be the passanger side steering arm) on the wrong side? Thought it should be on the tire side.

[J Cooper]

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14803&stc=1&d=1229962096

I don't know if the picture linked, but is the bevel on the arm in the picture (looks to be the passanger side steering arm) on the wrong side? Thought it should be on the tire side.

ya,

its wrong, i will get another arm later....
when i ordered them i got them because it gets rid of the king pin spring, i did not realize that they were beveled.

the kit has 1 long arm and 1 short arm with 1 hole ( i did not like the way it looked) , so i ordered 2 driver side arms not thinking. <-- guess i actually wanted 2 passenger side arms, either way its wrong


oh well

[DRAGOONRANCH]

haha, sounds like something I would do. :gigem:

it should be an easy change, if they won't make you a long one the way you need it, I am sure they can send you one with no bevel and you could get it machined yourself localy.

[J Cooper]

haha, sounds like something I would do. :gigem:

it should be an easy change, if they won't make you a long one the way you need it, I am sure they can send you one with no bevel and you could get it machined yourself localy.

actually i just wanted shorter ones, i use the holes closest to the knuckle and i did not want all that extra arm sticking out.

but like i said i ordered the wrong sides anyways.

i guess i could get the correct one (short) and have the other side machined down to match

[J Cooper]

power steering cooler

... and look it drives right into the garage with 2" to spare :gigem:

[J Cooper]

finally got the will to mess with the jeep again.

pulled off the steering to redo the tie rod ram mounts and extend the ram mount on the axle to make it more parallel.

check out the bolt we put in on the trail :gigem:

[redcagepatrol]

that's some serious force!

[J Cooper]

fixed some stuff tonight

fixed the ram mount on the tie rod, cut off the **** up and welded on tabs like i should have the first time

[J Cooper]

also fixed the leaking transmission.

it had a small dent in it, probably back from when i landed on a rock in clayton 06' (you can see it in the picture)
the pan was bent on the front corner by the dip stick, caused by the dent.
straightened out the lip on the pan



replaced the filter, added a drain plug and a new seal with some "real" gasket maker... keep this stuff off your hands

i used it just to stick the seal to the pan, then used regular rtv on top for security.

[eight]

Good luck ever getting that stuff off.

[J Cooper]

Good luck ever getting that stuff off.

its ok, that was the point

[J Cooper]

fixed the other side of the ram mount tonight.

not completely happy with it.... welding blind does not always turn out the way you want it to... it will work though, and next time i pull the axle out from under the jeep i can clean it all up.

[J Cooper]

tell the ***** to leak now!!

also rewired all the lights, brake lights, horn, cab lights, etc, etc.

only had headlights in clayton

some how the wire that goes through the fire wall to the horn "magically" changed location to a wire that had been cut for about 6 years... that was fun to track down
.

i am going to re-run my "past-last-minute-to-clayton" rear break line job and im ready for TCC next weekend :beer:

[TMatheaus]

http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/1146906402.html

set of half doors

[eight]

mota

http://collegestation.craigslist.org/pts/1201355229.html

[J Cooper]

called the other guy at PSC, he put spacers in both sides of the ram and upgraded my heims... just paid shipping.

put in the JB converisons 4:1 LoMax 300, 32 spline front and rear output shafts and the clocking kit with new input shaft. also put in their twin stick ball and spring kit, they are basically stiffer springs that keep it from popping out of gear.

if anybody else gets this kit, their stuff is really nice, but they are based out of Louisiana and their instructions reflect that. it took way longer to do than it should have. we ended up just using an exploded view of the t-case to do it.

had to do some last minute custom exhaust work to get the t-case in with the clocking kit. the exhaust shop ran the exhaust right next to the t-case then it wrapped around the back to miss the anti-wrap bar. (will get picks later)

got all the stuff to do the twin stick, but ran out of time, so it will have to do without for colorado.

also threw in some rock lights, wired up my tach, adjusted brakes, added a cb and a cd player / speakers. replaced a motor mount that was cracked in half... i think it had been like that for awhile, its basically a big rubber pad and in split horizontally, so it would anly move if the motor was torqued over.

also got the jeep inspected and the title put in my name.

[J Cooper]

finished

thanks to scott for letting me use his press and lending a hand... cj too

[J Cooper]

finally went out and pulled the front yoke off from the june colorado trip (3 months later = summer was hot)

pretty good break :gigem:

bad casting? i should ask our metallurgy guys to analyze it :gigem:

[Graystroke]

that's hairy!

[CheapJeep]

Mine looked the same...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/PostShakedown002.jpg

[uglyota]

I think bad castings have bubbles or inclusions visible in the break. That one just broke :D

[J Cooper]

note to self:
read all information closely.

when i bought the kit for the front output kit it says clearly
Available Options:

* 1350 non-CV Yoke
(which is basically a custom made yoke that has the same splines and u-joint as a 205 but it will fit into a 1.5" bearing)

so i assumed the 1310 it came with was also a non-CV

wrong

fine print says it comes with the 1310
**1310 CV
(also a custom piece)

i knew it looked like a cv yoke but the u-bolts bolted direct to it and it seemed to function properly.


so i just ordered their custom 1350 yoke which was only $60
a stock 205 yoke is like $105 then you have to machine the thing down

[eight]

Guess I need to order that too. If you need, I do have a 1310 non-cv yoke, I won't be swapping the cases until next year.

[J Cooper]

i went ahead and just ordered one. I called and they had one in stock.

didnt you say your case does not have the upgraded output shafts? or did it not have the 4:1?

the yokes i have are 32 spline

[eight]

It's got the shafts, not the 4:1.

[J Cooper]

finally got around to putting on the new yoke and clocked the t-case

had to cut out the floor and chop out some other pieces with the plasma to get it all the way flat
you can see the t-case now the low point is my transmission pan... eventually swapping it out so i will just deal with it


... also made some jack stack "jacks" :gigem::beer:

[J Cooper]

picked up some new u-joints
you might have heard of them before

talked to the guys and Houston Drive Train and they said they do not even sale spicer joints anymore unless people ask for them.

they are called Neapco. they use the same number as a spicer with like a letter in front of it.

comparison

neapco left, spicer right

you can see the seal on it (the reason they do not sell the spicers now)
he said the seals do not fail, keep out water and the joints are just as strong

$40 for 2 of them

[J Cooper]

what do you guys think about this for a crossmember??

[robertf03]

I don't think you have enough room to do that

the bolt hole in the bushing might end up oval shaped

[bburris]

When Paul and Blake worked at CarQuest in Corpus some Neapco rep made rounds through all the parts stores and showed them the comparison between their products and Spicer, it apparently made a really good impression on them.

[Sharpe]

Neapco isnt exactly new in the auto industry. They made the first Chevy 4wd conversions in the 50's. Cool story, I know.

[jerryg79]

Neapco isnt exactly new in the auto industry. They made the first Chevy 4wd conversions in the 50's. Cool story, I know.

that was Napco.

[Sharpe]

Sum***** you're right!

FML!

[robertf03]

my grandparents live in the town where neapco makes that stuff. Cool story, I know.

[Fredo]

I also exclusively ran Neapco joints on the camaro. I may have messed up 4 sets of gears in the mighty 10 bolt, but only one joint withstood the abuse. Neapco.
<announcer voice> Avaliable at finer retailers everywhere. </announcer voice>