Undoing my hard work [Archive]

Doug Krebs

12-22-2005, 11:44 PM

I'm thinking about taking the blazer apart for good and parting out or scrapping what remains.

Positives:

Many good buggy parts... 14 bolt, low mile TBI 350 (fred and jimmy would be happy!), steering column, title, lots of little things...

Getting rid of something I don't need that will just sit around.

Making money on what I don't need/want

Negatives:

I have a slight attatchment too it but not really. I'd rather have the parts than to sell it. I don't have any ambition to restore it or make it nice. The best it would be is a ranch truck or something similiar, as of which I don't have the need for in the near future.

Blazer bodies or old truck bodies are usually dirt cheap or free, so I can't see keeping it around for that purpose.

If I ever wanted to restore and older blazer it would be a 68-72...

eight

12-22-2005, 11:52 PM

Why scrap it allready? Does it not work as is? Build the buggy frame, then pull the drivetrain. That way you can still wheel the blazer for the next few years, instead of having nothing to wheel.

Doug Krebs

12-23-2005, 09:23 AM

I have nothing to tow it with, therefore it wouldn't be wheeled very often. Maybe once or twice a year if my brother wants to go or jerry for some weird reason again.

Also, the last trip was the first time I actually felt nervous wheeling it. I know this was due to not actually test driving it more than around the block. I guess it just felt more like work than fun and it really has no purpose other than sitting around.

davido

12-23-2005, 10:59 AM

Remove the body and tube buggy it on that frame. More and more people have 3/4 ton + trucks. I don't think it would be that hard to find someone to tow you, especially if you dropped some weight off of it (i.e. the body). There was a guy at Alto (friend of Andy's) who tows his Wagoneer with a 1/2 ton Chevy (on a gooseneck no less). He said it pulls great. If you build a buggy from scratch it will take you a LONG time plus you're still not much different on being towed, so why bother?

jerryg79

12-23-2005, 11:01 AM

My offer stands at $1500, if my company will get off their ass and reimburse for my $400 in gas, bastids!

Doug Krebs

12-23-2005, 11:31 AM

My offer stands at $1500, if my company will get off their ass and reimburse for my $400 in gas, bastids!

ass I just spent probably a grand on tires, suspension, and rebuilding the dana 60 :flipoff2:

StevenAg03

12-23-2005, 11:33 AM

so you profit by $500...i dont see where your complaint is... :flipoff2:

CheapJeep

12-23-2005, 11:41 AM

I really don't know much about your situation and what you want, but just breaking the ears off the square tube driveshaft isn't that big of a deal. You probably knew it was risky to make one and especially with all the heat being placed on the yoke ears. Look what happens to Mario's everytime he makes one (although he just butt welds the yoke on...) I would at least fix the front driveshaft and try taking it out one more time, if you still hate it build a buggy with your drivetrain from the Blazer. As for the towing issue, I am always more than willing to give anyone a tow if they will split the gas money. :gigem:

Sharpe

12-23-2005, 11:50 AM

CheapJeep

12-23-2005, 11:54 AM

One thing you should learn Robbie, is comparing someone to Mario doesnt make them feel any better. Besides, as far as I know the alto shaft was the first one hes had trouble with, he usually has engine fires and **** like that. I also say build the buggy chassis and wheel the blazer until its time to gut it.
My apologies I didn't mean to compare Doug to him in any way. Wheeling the blazer until you are ready for the drivetrain is probably your best bet if you decide to do a buggy but hey, it's your project and your decision. :gigem:

jerryg79

12-23-2005, 11:54 AM

CheapJeep

12-23-2005, 11:58 AM

you should stop talking

some people :rolleyes:

Tilloda

12-23-2005, 04:03 PM

mario: "it was a u-joint not a square shaft failure...square shafts are better than round ones"

jerryg79

12-23-2005, 04:10 PM

some people :rolleyes:

why did you edit that?

eight

12-23-2005, 05:09 PM

Doug Krebs

12-23-2005, 05:13 PM

You know that blazer would tow nicely behind the F-150 on a gooseneck. I estimate twice as good. If I have 8000 lbs behind dodge on a bumper pull, it handles much worse than 14000 lbs on a gooseneck. That little trailer of mike's would work great.

Now you mother ****ers are smoking crack!

Only good thing that came out of this is I think it looks ****ing bad ass...

eight

12-23-2005, 05:23 PM

I tell only the truth.

mudtoy67

12-23-2005, 05:57 PM

You know that blazer would tow nicely behind the F-150 on a gooseneck. I estimate twice as good. If I have 8000 lbs behind dodge on a bumper pull, it handles much worse than 14000 lbs on a gooseneck. That little trailer of mike's would work great.

Short bed F150s don't like to tow anything. Trust me. :(

AgDieseler

12-23-2005, 06:21 PM

Remove the body and tube buggy it on that frame...
Ditto. That frame is an excellent starting point. Look at ORD's Wally blazer.

Sharpe

12-23-2005, 11:19 PM

Yah but Stephen Watson said the only reason the stock blazer frame is still there is because it'd be too much of a PITA to remove it.

I was also thinking, I dont like my current trailer. The quality on it sucks and the ride with it attached to my truck. I was thinking I'm probably gonna get a new trailer next summer anyway, so I might as well get a gooseneck. Goosenecks with 20-22 foot decks are prety easy to find used and my truck already has a hole in the bed and the mount on the frame for the hitch. 20' and 10k pounds are pushing the limits of a bumper pull trailer anyway.

fbronco86

12-24-2005, 10:55 AM

CRaSHnBuRN

12-24-2005, 11:59 AM

Now you mother ****ers are smoking crack!

Only good thing that came out of this is I think it looks ****ing bad ass...

I say keep the fawker together till at least TCC. Take a little more leisurely pace and fix the current problems, and anything else you're not comfortable with. Then bring it out to mason in febuary with us and flog it. Then rebuild and repeat for TCC. At least get something back for all the time you spent prepping it for clayton

Cajun

12-24-2005, 12:43 PM

Formula Blazer!
http://hendrixmotorsports.com/_wsn/page3.html

I've been trying to get the 'laws to do this to theirs. I think it would be the proverbial shiznit.

Or, I have a buddy who is chopping his up. Floorboard and firewall is all that's left. The body will be narrower than a YJ tub when he's done. 4" of lift, 117" WB, and 44" boggers. Sounds like a good time to me :gigem:

davido

12-27-2005, 11:30 PM

Formula Blazer!

See Doug, I'm not the only one. It would be quick AND kick as. C'mon, all of the cool kids are doing it! http://tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=6922 :gigem:

KrazyKarl02

12-28-2005, 09:03 AM

I would put the 10-bolt back under it and keep it.

fbronco86

12-28-2005, 09:10 AM

I would put the 10-bolt back under it and keep it.

I think he should pull the body and make a buggy out of it. That is my plan for the bronco.

davido

12-28-2005, 12:01 PM

I would put the 10-bolt back under it and keep it.

Just curious, why would you do that? The body is pretty trashed.

And Happy Birthday!

jerryg79

12-28-2005, 12:08 PM

I agree with the 10-bolt action. If things work out the way you want, and you acquire property at some point down the road, you'll be kicking yourself in the ass for ditching a perfectly good ranch vehicle.

BMFScout

12-28-2005, 12:11 PM

drive it the way it is until you need any of the parts, get to work parting out that other piece of **** in your driveway.

KrazyKarl02

12-28-2005, 02:01 PM

Just curious, why would you do that? The body is pretty trashed.

And Happy Birthday!
Well, he has all the stuff to go back to 10-bolt fun for free, so he can have a running, some what reliable (if you clean the body grounds) truck for free. His dad will let him park it at the property. He can use it 2 or 3 times a year when we go to the property, or if Jerry wants to pull it for him. Then once Doug graduates, has a job, and is making the big bucks he can make a buggie, and if he needs to pull parts off of it.

davido

12-28-2005, 02:06 PM

OK, I understand not selling it for cheap. But why wouldn't he just wheel it the way that it is for now? He can always just take off the D60 when his buggy is almost done. He can do all of the mock-ups with the 10B.

Doug Krebs

12-30-2005, 02:54 PM

I don't like any of you...

I've decided to use the Ford Dana 60 on the buggy...

Other things I can use from the Ford...

Steering column and box...
Any other little misc things that you need on a buggy...

The only thing I need from the blazer would be the 14 bolt. Yes they are cheap but I like mine in the disc variety. Guess I could put drums back on it.

Anyways, maybe I'll weld some shocks on the front and fix the steering. Couldn't take too long right?

My wife is going to kill me now since I said I'd never wheel it again!

Doug Krebs

12-30-2005, 03:00 PM

Motor options...

I have 2 engines currently 4.3 and 5.7 both TBI. Original plan was to keep the 5.7 in the blazer and put the 4.3 in the buggy. I could also get a 305 for fairly cheap I believe.

So 5.7 in buggy, 305 in blazer, and sell 4.3? Or should I Stick with the original plan and leave the nasty 305 where it is...

Sharpe

12-30-2005, 03:58 PM

Forget 305 completely. Stick to original plan with 5.7 in blazer and 4.3 in buggy. Leave disk'd 14 bolt in blazer and shell out $300 for another disk'd 14 bolt. What kinda suspension you gonna run with the wide ford D60? I assume at least coils.

CRaSHnBuRN

12-30-2005, 04:19 PM

yeah, stick with the plan. 4.3s are great engines for a buggy, a good combo of horsepower and light weight.

Doug Krebs

12-30-2005, 04:31 PM

Suspension plans are air shocks

KrazyKarl02

12-30-2005, 04:43 PM

The guy with that 305 will never sell!!!!

what t-case and tranny you gonna do?

Doug Krebs

12-30-2005, 04:48 PM

The guy with that 305 will never sell!!!!

what t-case and tranny you gonna do?

Who cares if he doesn't sell, it's going to be scrapped soon if he doesn't get it anyways :D

Tcase and tranny are under investigation at this point. Orignally it was going to be the NP241 doubler to a chevy 205. However the ford axle brings some issuses. I've thought about combining the 2 dana 60's with the good parts and selling the rest. That allan guy in the ME shop says he made more off parting out axles.

Or maybe I'll do a Kustom KrebKo axle with a 9" center section and never ever be done :flipoff2:

robertf03

12-30-2005, 04:57 PM

Or maybe I'll do a Kustom KrebKo axle with a 9" center section and never ever be done :flipoff2:

I thought it was Kreb's Kustom Krawlers ?

eight

12-30-2005, 05:24 PM

Use ford 351 in buggy, use ford transmission in buggy, put ford 203 behind that with ford 205 behind it and ford 60 front and ford 10.25 rear. Hmm, that leaves the blazer in one piece.

davido

12-30-2005, 06:14 PM

Damn, don't tell me Polock out thunk you.

Doug Krebs

12-30-2005, 06:22 PM

Use ford 351 in buggy, use ford transmission in buggy, put ford 203 behind that with ford 205 behind it and ford 60 front and ford 10.25 rear. Hmm, that leaves the blazer in one piece.

blah no

Sharpe

12-30-2005, 09:47 PM

I assume the ford has one of those big borg warner t-cases so why not use that? They are aluminum too and have a decent low range I imagine. Otherwise, ford 205s arent hard to find. Do you want to run a manual or auto tranny? If you want manual, I know a guy thats selling a hydraulic clutch setup...

Doug Krebs

12-30-2005, 11:06 PM

the buggy will have a crawlbox, and I'm not using the borg warner case...

probably just get a ford 205 and try to figure out a solution for the crawlbox setup that i've been working on

CRaSHnBuRN

12-31-2005, 12:47 AM

is there a low range gear set available for the NP241? If there was, I'd just run the one case with that. With an automatic that would be plently low, and it would be alot lighter and shorter than a doubler.

The crawl box you originally had planned used a chevy np205, right? Did you ever figure this one out? If you did, and you allready had the parts available, would it be possible to simply flip the t-case? I know its been done with a D300, but I don't know about a NP205 (though I thought I've seen pics of it)

uglyota

01-03-2006, 02:48 PM

why exactly did you say you'd never wheel the blazer again?
do you really want a Furd drivetrain?
305 and 10b in the blazer as a ranch truck sounds like the ticket.
Sell the 4.3 and use the 5.7 in the buggy unless there's some elusive good reason not to

davido

02-15-2006, 12:10 AM

Hey pinche

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=310624&page=3

Doug Krebs

02-15-2006, 12:30 AM

blah...

My problem isn't the frame, it's all these little(big) projects that I try to tackle myself. i.e. odd ass 241/205 doubler that I'm trying to do myself. If you haven't noticed I like doing as much as I can myself. Not only am I a joo, it gives me a special feeling in my swimsuit area that only karl can replicate.

Once the doubler is done, I can get final length measurements and output measurements and finish the chassis in solid works.

I got another piece of the puzzle last week from scott. 14 bolt with disc brakes. Jesus, now I own 2 dana 60's and 2 14 bolts with disc brakes... I think I need to sell some crap.

02-15-2006, 12:54 AM

talk to Jon at Cardoc. He was asking me about anyone with fullwidths the other day. He wants them for I think the green Yota. Doubt he wants to spend the coin on the 60, but ya never know.

KrazyKarl02

02-15-2006, 08:34 AM

Not only am I a joo, it gives me a special feeling in my swimsuit area that only karl can replicate.

I knew I was special! :gigem:

BMFScout

02-15-2006, 09:41 AM

sell them to me, then I can hook up the hummer rims I bought the other day with those 37" BFG's I saw on craigslist...

Doug Krebs

02-15-2006, 01:58 PM

Hey pinche

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=310624&page=3

You should talk Chris scotti into doing this on my blazer frame... Then he could have a 4 seater!

CRaSHnBuRN

02-18-2006, 07:17 AM

hey krebs, have you seen this buggy yet? I remember you saying you liked how part of the f-toy cage looked, and eric mentioned something about you liking a buggy that someone had skinned with toyota body panels, so I figured you would like this one

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5126412#post5126412

Doug Krebs

02-18-2006, 09:47 AM

I called the tax office on friday... I'm going down there to see what has to be done to be issued a VIN.

I have no problem with equipment such as the usual: wipers, lights, horn, etc... but I've heard it has to be up to the standards of that production year. i.e. 2006, air bags, crumple zones, etc... I guess I'll find out on Mon.

eight

02-18-2006, 10:39 AM

See how "modified" a vehicle can be. I've got a 77 K20 you can "build" your buggy out of.

Sharpe

02-18-2006, 11:28 AM

I also have several titles you can have if you need them. All chevy of course, varying tonage though.

CRaSHnBuRN

02-18-2006, 08:19 PM

I also have a couple of titles, but I lost the bag with all the vin plates in it. I do still have one of the ones that were stamped to the frame, but I would need a torch to go get that one.

Sharpe

02-19-2006, 04:50 AM

So Doug, me and chris were sitting here thinking about the imaginary buggy. High centering is always an issue, even with a buggy, as Chris knows. Now, we have devised a few solutions to this dilema.

The first is a hydraulicly actuated hinged arm that is attached to the underside of the truck. The hinged end is poined towards the rear of the vehicle, with the loose end towards the front. The way it works is, if you get high centered, you extend the little arm and it will push you up and forward off the obstacle. Prety cool huh.

The next idea, is to have a set of mini tank tracks under the belly. They can be PTO driven. When you get high centered, you engage the PTO and use the tracks to crawl off the obstacle.

Photo chops of the two devices will be forthcoming.

Graystroke

02-19-2006, 01:13 PM

way behind the curve...I already thought of the tank tread mechanism...you could use bobcat hydraulic motors and run a PTO driven pump to power them.
as for the tread it has to to be able to bend a small radius (small drive wheels and not much room underneath) you could use a conveyor belt w/ tread... like the ones used to move sifted sand and fertlizer. split it in two and make a custom length.