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redcagepatrol
01-09-2006, 03:08 PM
The plan:
YJ tub and Frame with CJ grill and hood.
Vortec 5.3 / SM465 / Atlas?
leaf spring all around
Ford 9 rear, 35 spline
Ford 9 front, 35 spline (this depends on time and money)
40" tires, H2 wheels

chevsu
01-10-2006, 01:20 PM
you wouldn't like 40" tires. if i were you i would go smaller. :flipoff2:

agjohn02
01-16-2006, 03:14 PM
might wanna check yours

http://www.piratemotorsports.net/jerry/DSC01122.JPG

http://www.piratemotorsports.net/jerry/DSC01126.JPG

http://www.piratemotorsports.net/jerry/DSC01127.JPG

Reckless
01-16-2006, 03:24 PM
there is always a reason some things are in a junkyard!

BMFScout
01-16-2006, 03:37 PM
wtf? Is that one you guys got?

agjohn02
01-16-2006, 03:46 PM
no. it was on pirate.

Graystroke
01-16-2006, 05:26 PM
that would cause a small miss

redcagepatrol
01-16-2006, 08:39 PM
what a mess.

Teardown is complete. Now it's time to cut and grind all the crap off the frame and to scrap / blast all the glue (they glued the carpet on) off the body...

Sharpe
01-16-2006, 08:42 PM
Just out of curiosity how did yall lift the tub off the frame?

Shaggy
01-16-2006, 09:04 PM
probably two people lift it... they are pretty light are they not

redcagepatrol
01-16-2006, 09:24 PM
Just out of curiosity how did yall lift the tub off the frame?
I did it myself with an engine hoist

J Cooper
01-16-2006, 09:37 PM
... question? probably already been asked... why not just put a new motor and trans and such in lyndas jeep with a new grill and hood from the CJ???????

Chadnutz
01-16-2006, 10:04 PM
Because that would be too logical, and girls don't think that way. :flipoff2:

redcagepatrol
01-16-2006, 10:15 PM
... question? probably already been asked... why not just put a new motor and trans and such in lyndas jeep with a new grill and hood from the CJ???????
Because we can sell it for about $4000 and we won't be using ANYTHING on it and we wouldn't be able to sell any of it parts if we did take it apart. The body has too many dents too.

I bought the tub and frame for $650. That's $3350 to spend on parts that I would be out if I started from Lynda's.

Plus - the one I bought came with spare front axle parts, I can replace her broken shaft now. I also have a D35C shaft to sell. The body is in better shape also...

Make since yet???

J Cooper
01-16-2006, 11:22 PM
yes

JB
01-16-2006, 11:33 PM
did i miss something? Who's CJ is in the driveway?

stx4wheeler
01-17-2006, 12:07 AM
his but he is selling it, cause he doesnt want to rebuild that one.

AggieTJ2007
01-17-2006, 12:32 AM
thats a nice looking garage and driveway that youve got there

Reckless
01-17-2006, 12:45 AM
Do the yj roll bars mount the same as cj including the window frame bars cause i need a better roll bar for my cj. i know the cj didnt come with window bars but thats what a drill is for.

AggieTJ2007
01-17-2006, 12:46 AM
just build one

redcagepatrol
01-17-2006, 11:27 AM
Do the yj roll bars mount the same as cj including the window frame bars cause i need a better roll bar for my cj. i know the cj didnt come with window bars but thats what a drill is for.
If you want it, you can have it.

CheapJeep
01-17-2006, 12:12 PM
Looks like you're making a good start and some progress. Keep it up. :D

Shaggy
01-17-2006, 12:37 PM
damnit scott you better not beat me on this build

Sharpe
01-17-2006, 04:25 PM
He will... As will I with my CJ.

davido
01-18-2006, 12:12 AM
Scott is going to smoke everyone. He'll have all of the odds and ends wrapped before my floor is even done. Pisses me off! :D Scott, it looks like 1101 again. Luckily you have a deep driveway.

fbronco86
01-18-2006, 09:04 AM
damnit scott you better not beat me on this build

Dont worry you can always beat krebs and his buggy project. :gigem:

Reckless
01-19-2006, 10:53 PM
If you want it, you can have it.


Can you deliver to CS? I have no truck. Creighton will store for me.

agjohn02
01-21-2006, 01:34 AM
too bad they are in nebraska:(

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1999-CHEVY-SILVERADO-SIERRA-5-3L-ENGINE-75-000-MILES_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQitemZ80315 76678QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2003-2004-SILVERADO-SIERRA-5-3L-ENGINE-6-000-MILES_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQitemZ80315 80266QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

eight
02-07-2006, 01:25 PM
Thought you might have some interest in this.

http://www.stak4x4.com/2speed.htm

redcagepatrol
02-07-2006, 01:30 PM
it will be that, their 3 speed box, or an atlas

Shaggy
02-07-2006, 01:47 PM
i like how it is drilled to clock it however you wish

redcagepatrol
02-12-2006, 10:08 PM
Cody and I shaved the D60 today. Didn't want to turn down the ring gear - ended up with 1" more clearance. The ring gear is about 1/16" from the bottom.

JeepPhisherman
02-12-2006, 10:33 PM
looks awesome

CheapJeep
02-12-2006, 11:37 PM
Very Badass, I'm jealous.

sasquatch
02-12-2006, 11:39 PM
how is the cover going to seal?

Jackasic
02-12-2006, 11:52 PM
is that the new fangled process for those metal impregnated bearings?

Sharpe
02-13-2006, 12:11 AM
I want a diff shaving machine too!

robertf03
02-13-2006, 12:12 AM
is that the new fangled process for those metal impregnated bearings?

probably a way to keep the housing straight ;)

looks good scott, but you should have milled the entire housing away and got a flemco 9

redcagepatrol
02-15-2006, 03:47 PM
what do ya'll think about this?
http://www.truehi9.com/index.html

I have a bunch of stuff to order:
Ford 9 chunk - 35 spline, detroit, alum. housing, 1480 yoke
8 lug 4340 shafts for the Ford 9 - with bearings
disc brake set-up for the Ford 9.

35 spline 4340 shafts for the front
new knuckles for the front
kingpin rebuild for the front
u-joints for the front or Bobby Long D60 CV joints:
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/
he also has some nice u-joints that might be worth it over the CTM joints.
locking hubs
still need some Chevy outers.

Where should I get all this stuff? I only want to build these axles ONCE. I want to buy the best stuff, install it, and never have to think about them again (except for grease). Any suggestions?

uglyota
02-15-2006, 03:57 PM
stick with your roots man, bobby's 60 birfs.
looks like a lot of the comp rig buidups lately are running the truehi9, if that means anything

Matt Conlee
02-15-2006, 04:31 PM
sweet only 2300 bucks for 60birfs. Sounds like a deal to me

davido
02-15-2006, 04:32 PM
Any suggestions?


Seems like a lot of trouble. Just buy Doug's extra D60/14B combo and do the extreme shave. I've hung my rear a few times, but it hasn't been a problem and I've never even touched that huge lip on it with a grinder. I've thought about it, but I'm lazy about things that already work. :D I've also never been afraid of breaking the rearend no matter what I do. Dump the clutch, whatever. I've also never had a problem hanging my front.

eight
02-15-2006, 04:39 PM
Seems the breakage rate is allready about zero with 4340 shafts and joints in a d60 front. I think you should sell that whole dodge axle and buy a chevy one. Or sell the shafts from the dodge one to me.

redcagepatrol
02-15-2006, 05:06 PM
Seems the breakage rate is allready about zero with 4340 shafts and joints in a d60 front. I think you should sell that whole dodge axle and buy a chevy one. Or sell the shafts from the dodge one to me.
you don't hang out with the same people that I do... It's much more common than you think to break 4340 stuff and "unbreakable" CTM joints.

I hang up on my Toyota diffs and wish that I shaved them - there is no way that I wouldn't spend a few hours to shave a diff if I had it sitting on a bench in front on me...

Shaggy
02-15-2006, 05:17 PM
there is no way that I wouldn't spend a few hours to shave a diff if I had it sitting on a bench in front on me...
so you saying i can drop mine off for a weekend and pick it up shaved

uglyota
02-15-2006, 05:29 PM
:laughing:

agjohn02
02-15-2006, 05:32 PM
depends if she's fat or not

AggieTJ2007
02-15-2006, 05:43 PM
ide say go w/ the hi9 and the 60 birfs.

davido
02-15-2006, 07:20 PM
you don't hang out with the same people that I do... It's much more common than you think to break 4340 stuff and "unbreakable" CTM joints.


True in comps, but how many do that on the trail? My guess, a fraction. The guy at 4x4hardware (where I bought my cromoly 35 spline outters) said that they move a lot of those kits and have had very few broken Spicer u-joints (much less CTMs). I didn't spring for them because they doubled the cost of the kit.

As far as hanging up on your current diffs, just get some real tires and that won't be an issue. :flipoff2:

redcagepatrol
02-15-2006, 09:45 PM
so you saying i can drop mine off for a weekend and pick it up shaved
ya'll are all crazy :flipoff2:

Shaggy
02-15-2006, 10:32 PM
2600 is a lot for shafts... i spent 1300 on my shafts and 530 on ctms and some more on drive slugs and well its getting there

AggieTJ2007
02-15-2006, 11:26 PM
its 2300

redcagepatrol
02-15-2006, 11:27 PM
2600 is a lot for shafts... i spent 1300 on my shafts and 530 on ctms and some more on drive slugs and well its getting there
it is a lot - and a little too much for me. I would love to have them but that 300M material is just a little too pricy.

BTW - the difference between 4340 and 300M is worth it if you can afford it

redcagepatrol
02-15-2006, 11:27 PM
its 2300
and free shipping

davido
02-15-2006, 11:44 PM
So after reading the whole list (it looked to long to be worth it before ;) ) , I'm curious, what is your final tally on what the front & rear will cost to build?

redcagepatrol
02-16-2006, 09:12 AM
So after reading the whole list (it looked to long to be worth it before ;) ) , I'm curious, what is your final tally on what the front & rear will cost to build?
I'll add it up today when I start getting some prices. I might have to use my knuckles, Crane wants $325 ea.

Doug Krebs
02-16-2006, 09:23 AM
dedenbear?

Shaggy
02-16-2006, 09:51 AM
my shafts are 300m... they are superior evelution series... they are baddood

Shaggy
02-16-2006, 09:51 AM
still dont have them though... they take long time to get in seeing as they have to make them after you order them

redcagepatrol
02-16-2006, 03:11 PM
should I go 8 lug, 6 lug to match the Patrol, or 5 lug? For the rear - I can have the axles made to whatever I want - it's just easier with 5 lug for the brakes. For the front, I can get hubs to whatever I want (already going to change to Chevy style), just have to change the brakes.

william_ace
02-16-2006, 03:11 PM
5 lug

Sharpe
02-16-2006, 03:14 PM
Assuming yall will be running similar sized tires, six lug. It only makes sense.

stx4wheeler
02-16-2006, 03:27 PM
8 lug just looks cool in my book, 5 will make changing tires easier, and 6 to match yours which would be easy as well, i would say 6.

uglyota
02-16-2006, 03:51 PM
I would base it on what wheels/tires you end up with. It seems you could save nearly $1k by being able to pick the best deal on used tire/wheel combos. Especially since everybody thinks they need 20s these days

Shaggy
02-16-2006, 04:05 PM
well if you like the h2 wheels a lot then 8 lug... i believe the h3 wheels are 6 lug but dont know for sure if it is exactly the same bolt pattern... i think 8 lug is the best way to go though

BMFScout
02-16-2006, 04:06 PM
evidently he doesn't since he just sold his H2 wheels

CRaSHnBuRN
02-16-2006, 04:07 PM
well if you like the h2 wheels a lot then 8 lug... i believe the h3 wheels are 6 lug but dont know for sure if it is exactly the same bolt pattern... i think 8 lug is the best way to go though

h3 wheels are 6 lug, and I'm almost sure the pattern in the same as toys and chevy's but they're only 16s

redcagepatrol
02-16-2006, 05:12 PM
evidently he doesn't since he just sold his H2 wheels
I have another set of 5 here...

redcagepatrol
02-16-2006, 05:17 PM
I just ordered:
-front 4340 shafts (Yukon from 4wdFactory)
-Bobby Long D60 U-joints
-Dedenbear Knuckles
-2 Chevy Spindles
-kingpin rebuild kit
-Warn locking hubs
I still need the bearing hubs (I found some at a junkyard down here for $60 ea) - but I am waiting on determing my lug pattern

I am not sure about getting that True Hi9 yet - although it sure would be nice for the clearence and driveline angle!

BMFScout
02-16-2006, 05:18 PM
I have another set of 5 here...

durka durka

Doug Krebs
02-16-2006, 05:40 PM
Scott...

Thats a chevy 60? I'm assuming it didn't come with the knuckles out?

redcagepatrol
02-16-2006, 05:50 PM
Scott...

Thats a chevy 60? I'm assuming it didn't come with the knuckles out?
it's a complete Dodge - I am getting some Chevy hubs to convert to internal locking hubs

Doug Krebs
02-16-2006, 05:53 PM
ahh thats why you were wondering about my dodge hubs on the blazer...

Are the knuckles different too? Or are you paranoid you are going to break the stock ones?

redcagepatrol
02-16-2006, 06:05 PM
ahh thats why you were wondering about my dodge hubs on the blazer...

Are the knuckles different too? Or are you paranoid you are going to break the stock ones?
just paranoid of breaking the 37 year old stock ones from the northeast...

Sharpe
02-16-2006, 06:25 PM
The wheels on later 05ish tahoes are prety pimpin and are 6 lug. They might be 17" too, but I dont remember.

redcagepatrol
02-16-2006, 07:04 PM
OK, one more question.

Lee N. will sell his Currie built Ford 9 for $1600.
it has the Currie heavy duty trussed housing and is already shaved
5:13 gears, detroit, 35 spline 4340 shafts, alum case etc...

The only problem is that it's narrow. He said that it was about 4" wider than a stock Bronco - anybody? That price is only $200 more than the chunks that I was pricing any they didn't include shipping or tax. I can change to front gears to 5:13, drill out the hubs to 5 lug, figure out the brakes, and be done with it.

What do ya'll think?

bburris
02-16-2006, 09:45 PM
I think a stock EB is 60-61" wide stock.

Fredo
02-16-2006, 11:58 PM
Scott, do me a favor. Stop calling a 3rd member a "chunk". The stupid inbred dumb****s who call me at work reffer to it as a "chunk".

73bronco
02-17-2006, 01:41 AM
$1600 sounds like a steal, you'll drop that kind of change on a 35spl 3rd member easy and that doesnt include housing, shafts or brakes

robertf03
02-17-2006, 01:48 AM
$1600 sounds like a steal, you'll drop that kind of change on a 35spl 3rd member easy and that doesnt include housing, shafts or brakes

mark william$ sells 3.250 bore 3rd members for under 400, and if they get that much for them someone else has to be selling them cheaper.

redcagepatrol
02-17-2006, 08:54 AM
mark william$ sells 3.250 bore 3rd members for under 400, and if they get that much for them someone else has to be selling them cheaper.
I got prices yesterday for "third members"
Randy's $1359
Reider $1450
West Coast Diff $1375
DTS $1432

This is with the Alum. case, daytona alum pinion support, 1350 billit yoke, 35 spline detroit, all set up ready to go.

Lee's axle doesn't have the brakes. Shafts run about $315 for a pair. The big thing is no shipping and no tax...

Fredo
02-17-2006, 10:27 AM
why are you wanting an aluminum 3rdmember ? From everything I've read about them in my 9" research, I wouldn't use one in an offroad application.

redcagepatrol
02-17-2006, 10:31 AM
everyone that I have seen uses them and I would consider it better than the cast steel stuff. It's 15 pounds lighter... I have'nt done much research on which 3rd to use though

bburris
02-17-2006, 10:36 AM
What does 15 pounds located 14 inches off the ground matter?

redcagepatrol
02-17-2006, 10:37 AM
every pound counts :gigem:

Fredo
02-17-2006, 10:40 AM
Well, I would look at a nodular steel case, not a stock cast one. The aluminum cases from what I've heard have a lot of deflection under high torque load causing shorter gear life. This normally is because of a high hp, high torque motor, but going through a couple tcases and running 40" tires probably produces similar results.

robertf03
02-17-2006, 07:40 PM
I got prices yesterday for "third members"
Randy's $1359
Reider $1450
West Coast Diff $1375
DTS $1432

This is with the Alum. case, daytona alum pinion support, 1350 billit yoke, 35 spline detroit, all set up ready to go.

Lee's axle doesn't have the brakes. Shafts run about $315 for a pair. The big thing is no shipping and no tax...

those prices really aren't that bad if gears are included. Did you get quotes for ARB instead of detroit?

Graystroke
02-18-2006, 04:03 PM
I wouldn't care to loose the pounds that close to the ground. keeping weight there and loosing weight up top to lower CG. plus aluminum doesn't like rocks

redcagepatrol
02-20-2006, 09:31 AM
those prices really aren't that bad if gears are included. Did you get quotes for ARB instead of detroit?
nope - not a big fan of them

Matt Conlee
02-20-2006, 12:45 PM
dont get one of these

CheapJeep
02-20-2006, 01:23 PM
Whoa ****....that's not good. :eek:

AggieTJ2007
02-20-2006, 01:29 PM
whose TJ is that?

uglyota
02-20-2006, 02:50 PM
wow that's nasty. any more info?
btw thanks for the late night lockrite install advice, scott! :cheers:

BMFScout
02-20-2006, 03:09 PM
Troy I believe, so all bets are off anyway... ;)

AggieTJ2007
02-20-2006, 06:18 PM
makes sense from everything that I have heard

redcagepatrol
02-20-2006, 09:39 PM
yep, those stock cast third members suck - I'm not going to use one of those... That was Troys - from Matt driving it in a comp in Truckee CA - where Nick lives...

I ground / sanded my shaved D60 and made a diff cover today

Lee's rear Ford 9 is 62" wide. I could run some 2" wheel adapters and be pretty close to my 67" front - Sounds like my current plan.

redcagepatrol
02-20-2006, 09:42 PM
finished product before paint and a little fine tuning

davido
02-20-2006, 10:49 PM
Cool. Now come do mine. :D How did you recommend I cut mine off (sans mill)?

AgDieseler
02-20-2006, 10:51 PM
Looks cool. I'm curious why you didn't go with the Dana thick diff cover.

BMFScout
02-20-2006, 10:55 PM
weight!! every pounds counts!!! :flipoff2:

AggieTJ2007
02-20-2006, 10:59 PM
looks good. Might want to shave that one bolt a little bit though

redcagepatrol
02-20-2006, 11:25 PM
Looks cool. I'm curious why you didn't go with the Dana thick diff cover.
I should have bought one of those - it would have been a much better starting point - but I just used what I had. Should be fine

David, I would just cut it out with a cutting wheel or something, seems alot easier.

I changed the bolts to butten heads and that bolt now only needs minimal grinding.

Hope it seals!

AggieTJ2007
02-20-2006, 11:28 PM
Hope it seals!

Thats what RTV is for


can you take a picture of it w/ the button head bolts, I wanna see how it looks. I could use to do it on mine cause the bolts are getting rounde off on the bottome

redcagepatrol
02-20-2006, 11:35 PM
here ya go

eight
02-20-2006, 11:54 PM
7" grinder makes quick work of the lip. About 5 minutes. I think I get about 5/8" off the d60. And a 14 bolt has more to remove. You get a little more with Scott's method, but its more work.

stx4wheeler
02-21-2006, 01:35 PM
two questions, pollock doesnt your method leave you with a very thin botton of your diff? where as scot has that piece welded back in?

two scott, did you jsut drill out, then weld a washer into the cover for the bottom bolt hole? or what?

Sharpe
02-21-2006, 01:45 PM
I dont know about the D60 but when I shaved my 14 bolt I cut the 1/2" lip off the bottom with a sawzall and rounded it off with a grinder. It is perfectly smooth and round and there is still about 1/2" of material left. Scott, are you worried about the lip of that cover being pulled up? That heppened to mine. I planted the diff on a rock at Gilmer and it dented the bottom of the cover and when I backed off it peeled the lip up a little bit and now it wont seal. The dent isnt bad enough to touch the gear but the leak annoys the hell out of me. I'm going to get one of the great lakes offroad covers when I get around to it. 1/4" solid construction for $110 shipped. Cant beat that.

uglyota
02-21-2006, 01:45 PM
you got plenty of room in there for expansion and deflection? Maybe you should cut it even closer to control deflection :where's the lightbulb smilie:

Shaggy
02-21-2006, 02:48 PM
i ordered fab fours 60 diff cover... whenever it gets here i am gonna shave my 60 some

redcagepatrol
02-21-2006, 09:02 PM
two questions, pollock doesnt your method leave you with a very thin botton of your diff? where as scot has that piece welded back in?

two scott, did you jsut drill out, then weld a washer into the cover for the bottom bolt hole? or what?
Look closer at the pictures. The bottom two inches on the diff - along with the piece that wraps over the ring gear is 3/16" plate. I welded a piece of tube to the 3/16" plate that I used to thicken up the bottom of the cover for the extra bolt. I also added a 1/4" plate that I tapped for a 3/8" bolt to the diff.

There should still be plenty of meat in Pollocks method

eight
02-21-2006, 09:12 PM
I'd say there's about as much left as with what scott did. Figure in 20 years or so I'll have to build the bottoms back up. Rocks tend to wear the steel.

redcagepatrol
03-16-2006, 11:35 PM
Update:
very slow progress...
Frame is bare - all old brackets are ground smooth
axle is painted, need a locker and steering arms.
- I ran into a problem. Since I decided to go to 5:13 gears because of the rear axle I am buying, I need to buy a front locker. You see - I failed to realize that there is a carrier change after 4:10 gears and I didn't look into it until I was attempting to set up the gears...

So - what locker should I get for the front? The rear will be a detroit.

Problem II - The Chevy bearing hubs that I bought from the junkyard mount the rotor about 9/16" further outboard than the Dodge hubs. Are the Chevy rotors 9/16" thinner than my 2-3/4" thick Dodge rotors? Do I need Chevy caliper brackets too? that would suck...

I ordered a Stak 2 speed case, 5.4 gears, flange rear output, 1410 front yoke, e-brake, VSS sensor, and a 1410 front D60 yoke.

Doug Krebs
03-16-2006, 11:59 PM
Update:
very slow progress...
Frame is bare - all old brackets are ground smooth
axle is painted, need a locker and steering arms.
- I ran into a problem. Since I decided to go to 5:13 gears because of the rear axle I am buying, I need to buy a front locker. You see - I failed to realize that there is a carrier change after 4:10 gears and I didn't look into it until I was attempting to set up the gears...

So - what locker should I get for the front? The rear will be a detroit.

Problem II - The Chevy bearing hubs that I bought from the junkyard mount the rotor about 9/16" further outboard than the Dodge hubs. Are the Chevy rotors 9/16" thinner than my 2-3/4" thick Dodge rotors? Do I need Chevy caliper brackets too? that would suck...

I ordered a Stak 2 speed case, 5.4 gears, flange rear output, 1410 front yoke, e-brake, VSS sensor, and a 1410 front D60 yoke.

About the hubs and rotors, yes... I can't remember the exact difference, look in billavista's dana 60 article. The calipers are the same, but the rotors and backing plate differ I think.

robertf03
03-17-2006, 03:07 AM
arb

bburris
03-17-2006, 04:06 AM
What's the problem with the gears? Did you buy the wrong Detroit, or the wrong gears? I think you can use the Detroit for higher gear sets with a thick 5.13 ring gear, but it may be the other way around or something. Either way, you should be able to use any locker with whatever gears you bought.

davido
03-17-2006, 04:29 AM
I agree. I'm getting pretty sick of the front plowing that mine does. It's a ***** to drive on tight trails. For as little as I drive it, I'm not pissed enough to drop $3k replacing it all. But it gets old fast, weaving through the trees.

chevsu
03-17-2006, 08:30 AM
thats why i just use front wheel drive and use the cutting brakes on tight trails. welded does suck at some points but not on the price.......

redcagepatrol
03-17-2006, 09:48 AM
What's the problem with the gears? Did you buy the wrong Detroit, or the wrong gears? I think you can use the Detroit for higher gear sets with a thick 5.13 ring gear, but it may be the other way around or something. Either way, you should be able to use any locker with whatever gears you bought.
I have a welded 4:10 carrier - I will order a detroit today...

redcagepatrol
03-17-2006, 10:10 AM
About the hubs and rotors, yes... I can't remember the exact difference, look in billavista's dana 60 article. The calipers are the same, but the rotors and backing plate differ I think.
Of course, Pirate's down right now...

redcagepatrol
03-17-2006, 11:54 AM
I need to find some Chevy rotors and measure them - anyone? O-Reily has to order them...

davido
03-17-2006, 12:42 PM
thats why i just use front wheel drive and use the cutting brakes on tight trails. welded does suck at some points but not on the price.......

True. I guess I just need to get my braking uterus powered up and learn my Tcase. I think Andy and I already modded the 205 for Front WD, but I don't think I've ever used it.

davido
03-17-2006, 12:44 PM
I need to find some Chevy rotors and measure them - anyone? O-Reily has to order them...

Sure. Come on up. :D I'm sure it's online somewhere else besides Pirate.

AggieTJ2007
03-17-2006, 01:42 PM
well pirate is back online now

redcagepatrol
03-17-2006, 01:51 PM
it doesn't show the difference. It just says that the Chevys are 1.5" thick and the Dodge are 1.25. That's 0.25" of my problem (assuming the wear surface starts in the same place) - still have another 5/16" to go...

bburris
03-17-2006, 02:45 PM
Can you take a picture of what you need measured? I guess I'm not exactly sure on what measurement you need. I can take measurements of the Chevy 60 sitting under my Jeep and I can get a few pictures of the brake setup if you need it.

redcagepatrol
03-17-2006, 02:51 PM
I need the total width of the rotor. If the rotor was off the axle and sitting flat on a table, you would measure from the table to the highest part of the rotor. I'll try to get a pic tonight.

Thanks

bburris
03-17-2006, 03:00 PM
OK that's easy. Gimme a few.

bburris
03-17-2006, 06:43 PM
hope this helps

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album543/DSC01246.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album543/DSC01247.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album543/DSC01251.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album543/DSC01252.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album543/DSC01253.sized.jpg

redcagepatrol
04-02-2006, 10:15 PM
OK,
as for the hubs - the ones I got from the junkyard must be Ford hubs... I'll find some Chevy crap

Ok, new problem :D
I now have a Ford HP D60. The "CJ" that I am building can be driver or pass drop - pretty sure that I can still call and make the change on the t-case order.

My Patrol is a Passenger drop. I don't plan on changing the T-case any time soon.

Should I start over (shaving the Ford D60 and modifying the cover - buy shafts etc...) for that axle, or should I continue on my path with the Dodge axle?

Should I sell the shaved Dodge 60 housing in x-change for a non shaved housing and make a rear steer axle using a Ford 9" center for the Patrol? I would only need to change the inner shafts. I need the housing for "C"'s and tube I think.

Even though I don't want to re-do any work (and spend the money building another axle), I think that the best option would be to shave the Ford D60, and save the Dodge one for the front of the Patrol.

What do ya'll think I should do?

Graystroke
04-02-2006, 11:06 PM
buy a Z71 and put 35's on it and call it good

stx4wheeler
04-03-2006, 01:18 AM
put ford 60 in lynda's jeep, and dodge shaved one in the patrol, but thats just me, but what the hell do i know.

Busa
04-03-2006, 04:07 PM
Put the ford under the CJ and let me have the dodge one.

Did you talk to you friend about the one he had.

redcagepatrol
04-18-2006, 08:04 AM
OK,
after buying a Jeep, selling it, buying a F250, parting it out and getting rid of it, I have finially started on the Jeep.

I moved Lynda's YJ into the driveway, moved the Patrol to the other side of the garage and have started on the leaf spring mounts on the frame.

I got the front spring mounts done last night, next up, the front shackle mounts in the frame.

AggieTJ2007
04-18-2006, 04:29 PM
looks good

stinger7401
04-18-2006, 06:45 PM
oh damn, i seem to remember a thread that started similar to this a couple of years ago........here it is! (http://tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=240&highlight=patrol+build)

Another rig.....Scott this must be like a woman going back into the labor room....how does it feel? :flipoff2:

davido
04-18-2006, 11:33 PM
****. Scott will be done by freakin' Memorial Day. I hate you ****er! :flipoff2:

agjohn02
04-23-2006, 08:29 AM
id like to see a shot of the bottom of the front hangers, how they are frenched in. reverse shackle i suppose?

redcagepatrol
04-26-2006, 09:02 AM
more progress last night - I put in some shackle mounts
--reverse shackle? no, just the way it's supposed to be - I guess you could call it reverse if you are referring to a Jeep :flipoff2:

redcagepatrol
04-26-2006, 09:03 AM
one more

chevsu
04-26-2006, 09:15 AM
look at all those miller machines in the back ground of that last pic. looks like a fab shop!!!

redcagepatrol
04-26-2006, 09:16 AM
It's ScottCo Fab :gigem:

agjohn02
04-26-2006, 11:35 AM
that should keep those 44044's a little shorter. looks good.

redcagepatrol
04-27-2006, 08:42 AM
Last night I made some shackles for the front and mounted the springs to make sure everything was good. I also drilled the four holes in the back of the frame for the rear shackles and prepared the frame for the bumper. I made the inserts to go inside the frame also...

uglyota
04-27-2006, 09:20 AM
you gonna do some sweet reinforcement action around the steering box mount?

redcagepatrol
04-27-2006, 09:27 AM
you gonna do some sweet reinforcement action around the steering box mount?
I'm going to use full Hydro

redcagepatrol
04-28-2006, 08:04 AM
last night, I welded the rear shackle inserts into the frame and welded on the bumper.
Next up - the hangers for the rear spring. I plan on putting these into the frame so there is nothing to hang on.

redcagepatrol
08-13-2006, 09:27 PM
Been a while - I have been busy with Vacations, work, and keeping up my other trucks - and selling Lynda's Jeep.

Got the T-case in last week - I ordered it in March!
Getting back into it - I re-drilled the Ford 9 axle shafts to six lug. Orded some parts to finish the rear axle. Picked up a 4x4 SM465 and a re-build kit.

My steps now:
1) finish the rear 9". figure out some disc brakes for it - I have some calipers, but I just need to find some 6 lug rotors that will slip on and are about 7/8" thick - Any Suggestions?
2) finish welding up the bumpers
3) bolt on leaf springs and rear axle
4) cut down front axle, change to 6 lug
5) shave front axle, bolt in.
6) drop in drivetrain

Sharpe
08-13-2006, 09:57 PM
For the rear rotors have you tried the fronts off a 1/2 ton chevy 10 bolt? They are around 7/8" thick and 6 lug.

redcagepatrol
08-13-2006, 10:00 PM
For the rear rotors have you tried the fronts off a 1/2 ton chevy 10 bolt? They are around 7/8" thick and 6 lug.
I had them pull some from an '85 but they were over 1" thick

AggieTJ2007
08-13-2006, 10:33 PM
why 6 lug? you could get some solid front disks for a toyota and drill out the holes so they slip on

redcagepatrol
08-14-2006, 11:16 AM
why 6 lug? you could get some solid front disks for a toyota and drill out the holes so they slip on
So I match the Patrol - and 6 is better than 5...

uglyota
08-14-2006, 11:22 AM
you've tried FJ40 rotors, ifs minitruck rotors, 88-98 1/2t chevy rotors, taco rotors? Would it be kosher to make some kind of spacer so you could use thinner rotors? Probably not...

AggieTJ2007
08-14-2006, 11:31 AM
So I match the Patrol - and 6 is better than 5...

what he means is when the patrol runs out of tires borrow some from the CJ

Sharpe
08-14-2006, 01:10 PM
What calipers are you using that wont allow you to use a rotor wider than 7/8"?

redcagepatrol
08-14-2006, 01:29 PM
What calipers are you using that wont allow you to use a rotor wider than 7/8"?
some 4x4 S10 Chevy calipers - are they 6 lug?

bburris
08-14-2006, 01:31 PM
Have you tried 88-98 Chevy 1/2 ton front rotors?

BMFScout
08-14-2006, 01:34 PM
s-10's are 5x 4-3/4"

agjohn02
08-14-2006, 01:37 PM
is there a reason why diameter does not matter?

redcagepatrol
08-14-2006, 01:39 PM
is there a reason why diameter does not matter?
I have not tried the 88~98 Chevy rotors yet, but I will. The diameter doesn't matter too much because I can put the caliper where ever I need to.

uglyota
08-14-2006, 01:45 PM
custom brackets...

why not use toyota ones? you can't argue with 4 pistons and i'm sure you have a couple laying around, if not I do. one $4 adapter on each side gets it back to SAE stuff...

redcagepatrol
08-14-2006, 01:47 PM
custom brackets...

why not use toyota ones? you can't argue with 4 pistons and i'm sure you have a couple laying around, if not I do. one $4 adapter on each side gets it back to SAE stuff...
They are a fixed type of caliper. You really need to have a floating type - the S10 ones are only $15ea.

agjohn02
08-14-2006, 01:49 PM
The diameter doesn't matter too much because I can put the caliper where ever I need to.


i assumed you were building custom brackets but does the shape of the pads not matter. they are set for a certain rotor diameter. seems you should use matching calipers and rotors... or did i just read over the part where you are going to do just that?

agjohn02
08-14-2006, 01:51 PM
They are a fixed type of caliper. You really need to have a floating type - the S10 ones are only $15ea.


floating calipers are only necessary if its a single sided piston. calipers with piston(s) on each side should be fixed and let the pistons do the floating. it'd be easier to build your brackets for a fixed caliper.

uglyota
08-14-2006, 01:59 PM
seems to me that floating would give you a little more flexibility on where to put your brackets though, since it's a hard mounted caliper body vs one on sliders

AggieTJ2007
08-14-2006, 02:10 PM
cause that is how he wants to do it

agjohn02
08-14-2006, 02:34 PM
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=322657

redcagepatrol
08-14-2006, 02:47 PM
you must think I'm rich!...

I have a drill press and access to a lathe.

For the rear ford 9", I already drilled out the axle shafts to 6 lug. Cost - $16 for a drill bit. The calipers are $15ea, the weld on brackets were $9 ea, and the rotors are about $20 ea. Rear disc brakes for about $150.

For the front, I will drill the rotors and hubs, cost - $0
Machine down hub - Cost - $0 or some trades.
I plan on running a 17" rim, but will grind down the caliper to fit a 15"
Front 6 lug conversion cost - time.

EDIT: PS,
I have Toyota 4 piston calipers and rotors or the Patrol rear. I hate them - the fixed design means that the axle shaft can't be bent any, it opens up the caliper and makes the brakes squishy. Plus, those calipers are like $60 ea compared to $15.

eight
08-15-2006, 08:30 PM
I may have the perfect rotors for you. They come from my front porch. They're 6 lug, and new, never been used, probably the right thickness because they were in a box with caddy calipers which also needed thinnish rotors. Free or trade.

redcagepatrol
08-15-2006, 09:12 PM
I may have the perfect rotors for you. They come from my front porch. They're 6 lug, and new, never been used, probably the right thickness because they were in a box with caddy calipers which also needed thinnish rotors. Free or trade.
Hmm, might have to come up to CS this weekend...

Here are some more progress pics - there pretty old

BMFScout
08-15-2006, 10:31 PM
I don't remember what those rotors came off of, but they are from my aborted rear disc brake project. I get a beer if they work.

davido
08-15-2006, 11:56 PM
Looking good!

uglyota
08-16-2006, 09:53 AM
scott your pictures would be easier to understand if they weren't taken straight on
are those arch things just 1/4" spacers?

redcagepatrol
08-16-2006, 10:24 AM
yep - so the spring fits inside the frame - it looks pretty good all grinded up

uglyota
08-16-2006, 10:28 AM
do you have a standoff tip for your plasma? That's some nice cuttage!

stinger7401
08-16-2006, 11:51 AM
do you have a standoff tip for your plasma? That's some nice cuttage!

You mean you couldn't get a torch cut that clean? I could.... :flipoff2:

BMFScout
08-16-2006, 12:18 PM
I use the "training wheels" as I like to call them. They are sweet most of the time.

agjohn02
08-16-2006, 12:42 PM
im liking it. its not gonna be as tall as i predicted.


if those rotors are supposed to be on the porch here, they arent.

eight
08-16-2006, 09:48 PM
No they were on the porch, they're now in a jeep parts pile here in karnes.

redcagepatrol
08-18-2006, 05:37 PM
WTF - do I need a 3/16" spacer or something? Is there supposed to be something between the retainer plate and the housing?

I started on the front bumper...

robertf03
08-18-2006, 05:38 PM
yes, the backing plate

redcagepatrol
08-18-2006, 05:45 PM
who in the hell runs a backing plate!

robertf03
08-18-2006, 05:49 PM
who in the hell runs a backing plate!

white people :flipoff2:

redcagepatrol
08-21-2006, 05:30 PM
Well,
got the Ford 9 and the bumpers done over the weekend. I realized that a 3/16" thick spacer for the backing plate is too thick and a 1/8" one is too thin after making one of each and trying them. I had to use some old stock ones that I had, fill in the holes, then re-drill them. The proper thickness should be 0.150 - nothing I can get at the store...

redcagepatrol
08-21-2006, 05:37 PM
why in the hell can't I post pics - it said that I had the wrong file type?

Sharpe
08-21-2006, 05:43 PM
I was trying to upload some earlier and it wasnt working for me either. Fix it Cook.

eight
08-21-2006, 06:13 PM
Those rotors are about 0.716" thick, 11.25" diameter, and the minor diameter of the pad wear area is 8.25". The ID that needs to fit over the bearing hub flange is pretty big so it should have a good chance of working, they were made for something with an internal parking brake like any newer rear disk break axle.

I'll be back in college station saturday for the new semester.

sasquatch
08-21-2006, 06:56 PM
i'm working on it

agjohn02
08-25-2006, 12:58 AM
Got the T-case in last week


PICS man!!!



every pound counts huh? you gonna do this?

http://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=8375&stc=1&d=1104432581

StevenAg03
08-25-2006, 07:20 AM
PICS man!!!

that t-case is a thing of beauty....

bburris
08-25-2006, 04:18 PM
I stayed quiet because Lynda was around, but I'm pretty sure I soiled my panties when I saw that t-case.

mudtoy67
08-25-2006, 04:35 PM
What's so special about this mysterious t-case? What kind is it? 2spd?...3spd?.......or the magical 4spd? Does it make margaritas?

Damnit with all the hype we need some pics!!!!1!!!!!jose!!!

:D

agjohn02
08-25-2006, 04:52 PM
i still wanna see scott's but... http://www.stak4x4.com/2speed.htm

redcagepatrol
08-25-2006, 05:36 PM
here are a few I took that other night

redcagepatrol
08-25-2006, 05:37 PM
more

Reckless
08-25-2006, 06:36 PM
Thats Dead Sexy! now i feel even more broke just looking at it

agjohn02
08-25-2006, 09:00 PM
very nice

Graystroke
08-25-2006, 09:07 PM
So when you plan on having this thing done? Overhaulin' does it in 7 days!

StevenAg03
08-25-2006, 09:17 PM
im thinking a better estimate would be 7 months... :gigem:

agjohn02
08-26-2006, 01:50 AM
closer pics of what you did to offset the shackles on the front springs?

CheapJeep
08-26-2006, 04:13 AM
Very nice fab work, bumpers, frame, etc...look excellent. That case is blingin'! Is it me or does it look like the front pinion angle will be pointed at the ground with the springs recessed like that with the shackle reversal?

redcagepatrol
08-26-2006, 10:30 AM
Very nice fab work, bumpers, frame, etc...look excellent. That case is blingin'! Is it me or does it look like the front pinion angle will be pointed at the ground with the springs recessed like that with the shackle reversal?
I can put my spring perches at whatever angle I want...
I will try to get the pics of the offest shackles - nothing special, just a welded on 1/4" plate to space the spring over one way.

mudtoy67
08-26-2006, 11:31 AM
That is a sweet tcase. Why the 2spd Stak over the Atlas? They're pretty close in price aren't they? I thought the reason most people buy Stak was for the 3spd.

eight
08-26-2006, 12:24 PM
That's what shims are for. Mine were about 5/8" thick at the fat end.

redcagepatrol
08-27-2006, 09:55 AM
That is a sweet tcase. Why the 2spd Stak over the Atlas? They're pretty close in price aren't they? I thought the reason most people buy Stak was for the 3spd.
it's much cheaper than the Atlas when you start adding up the upgrades. The yokes / flanges / e-brake / 32 spline / 5.44 gears / and shifters are all cheaper - on top of the case being like $300 cheaper. The Stak come standard with all this but you have to pay extra on the Atlas. I also wanted something different... How low can you go in the Atlas?

DRAGOONRANCH
08-27-2006, 10:00 AM
10.34 :flipoff2:
















6.0 on the 2spd though

uglyota
08-27-2006, 02:38 PM
I can vouch for sexayness of the STAK, as well as the rest of the fab.
that brake setup turned out real nice

agjohn02
09-06-2006, 12:28 AM
I need to find some Chevy rotors and measure them - anyone? O-Reily has to order them...


i was just looking at napa's site and remembered this. dont know if you still need it but the site says they are 3.080".

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=TS&PartNumber=4885822&Description=Brake+Rotor+Only+-+Front

redcagepatrol
10-01-2006, 11:42 AM
Update,
I almost have the tranny rebuilt, Cody and I narrowed and shaved the Ford HP D60 yesterday

redcagepatrol
10-01-2006, 11:46 AM
a few more

Sharpe
10-01-2006, 12:30 PM
Thats straight baller. How much did yall narrow it? I wish I had a diff shaving machine!

Chadnutz
10-01-2006, 02:54 PM
Hughes Fab is the ****.

CheapJeep
10-01-2006, 04:07 PM
That gives me wood....Me likey!

redcagepatrol
10-01-2006, 04:19 PM
Thats straight baller. How much did yall narrow it? I wish I had a diff shaving machine!
5.5 inches

fbronco86
10-01-2006, 05:22 PM
Thats straight baller. How much did yall narrow it? I wish I had a diff shaving machine!

Its just a knee mill nothing real special chief.

agjohn02
10-01-2006, 05:24 PM
Its just a knee mill nothing real special chief.


search

fbronco86
10-01-2006, 05:38 PM
search


mom?

BMFScout
10-01-2006, 10:10 PM
the mill may be nothing special, but the work is badass.

agjohn02
10-01-2006, 10:32 PM
mom?

yeah, she's good

its old old reference to eric calling a mill a diff shaving machine

Sharpe
10-01-2006, 11:55 PM
Its just a knee mill nothing real special chief.
Way to cut the balls off my joke *******. :flipoff2:

redcagepatrol
11-03-2006, 01:18 PM
Update:
gears set up, spring perches made, housing under frame.
ordered a clutch / flywheel / adapters etc... to get a manual on a 5.3 ($600...)
ordered a nut that I was missing for my 4x4 tranny
ordered Novaks hydro slave cylinder kit (cheaper for me to buy than to waste time figuring stuff out)

This weekend - I will be installing a screen door and working on the CJ. By the end of the weekend, I plan on having both axles bolted in (perches not welded) and the front axle finished out - ie shafts and outers installed. If my tranny nut comes in, I will bolt that to the t-fer case.

Fredo
11-03-2006, 02:31 PM
ordered a clutch / flywheel / adapters etc... to get a manual on a 5.3 ($600...)

Could you go into more detail on this part.....what adapters are you talking about and what transmission did you decide to go with? Unless you bought an SFI bellhousing, I'm trying to figure out what part of putting a manual tranny behind a 5.3 cost $600.

redcagepatrol
11-03-2006, 02:38 PM
Could you go into more detail on this part.....what adapters are you talking about and what transmission did you decide to go with? Unless you bought an SFI bellhousing, I'm trying to figure out what part of putting a manual tranny behind a 5.3 cost $600.
it's really just a clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, spacer for the 0.400 difference, TO bearing, bolts, and a few other things. I talked to a few people about getting the flywheel for the 5.3 (never came with a standard) and you have to get it from the dealer. The dealer wants $430 for the flywheel (for a 4.8). The parts store wants $280 for the clutch kit. I didn't feel like figuring out what parts from what trucks I needed to get...

Fredo
11-03-2006, 02:45 PM
yeah, I guess it does add up quick. You could have also used an Fbody or Corvette LS1 flywheel. I bet there are are few of those floating around ebay. Either way, you've got it and it's together. Good deal.

BMFScout
11-03-2006, 02:51 PM
And everyone has bellhousings from '57 chevy's sitting around right Fred?

Fredo
11-03-2006, 02:56 PM
actually it's 55-57, but yeah, not everybody has one of those.

StevenAg03
11-03-2006, 10:54 PM
hey scott...what time are you going to start working on this thing?

Cajun
11-04-2006, 12:10 PM
Nice work on the diff shaving Scott. What welding procedures did you use to weld the mild plate to the cast pumpkin?

robertf03
11-04-2006, 12:20 PM
Nice work on the diff shaving Scott. What welding procedures did you use to weld the mild plate to the cast pumpkin?

looks like mig



:flipoff2:

redcagepatrol
11-21-2006, 03:57 PM
mig it was...
Should I run electric fans or an engine driven fan. If electric, should I have the computor control it or have it on a switch?

I need a GM aluminum bellhousing for an SM465...

I am waiting on a few items like a bellhousing and pilot bearing to get the engine mated to the tranny and t-case, then I can install in frame. The axles are painted, assembled, and bolted on. Here are some older pics:

sasquatch
11-21-2006, 04:13 PM
cool, looks pretty badass

tigweld
11-21-2006, 05:14 PM
do you use a pinion depth tool?

redcagepatrol
11-21-2006, 10:20 PM
do you use a pinion depth tool?
what is that? - so Nope, sure didn't

uglyota
11-21-2006, 10:28 PM
tech time--is that a good pattern, and if so what makes it a good pattern?

Doug Krebs
11-21-2006, 10:33 PM
what is that? - so Nope, sure didn't

It's a tool that replaces the carrier. They work in different ways, some use dial indicators, others i've seen you can measure with feeler gauges. They all do the same thing and measure depth. I really don't care to find a picture, however it would explain much better than me rambling.

Graystroke
11-21-2006, 10:39 PM
it makes the number engraved on the end of the pinion a little more useful

Cajun
11-21-2006, 10:42 PM
mig it was...

Thanks Captain Obvious. :flipoff2:

What I was asking about was did you pre or post heat? Any special wire, or just plain ol' solid core? I'm going to shave my new D70 before it goes it, just not sure how much I'm going to take off.

TIA.

RCcola55
11-21-2006, 11:43 PM
tech time--is that a good pattern, and if so what makes it a good pattern?
kinda, the only problem i see is that the pinion is a little too deep on the ring gear ie. sticking out to far. Maybe take some shims out and it would be good. The best way to set pinion depth without a tool is to measure the old pinion head and shims and take that # and subtract the new pinion head and it will tell you how much shim to add, if that makes any sense at all

mudtoy67
11-22-2006, 12:45 AM
kinda, the only problem i see is that the pinion is a little too deep on the ring gear ie. sticking out to far. Maybe take some shims out and it would be good. The best way to set pinion depth without a tool is to measure the old pinion head and shims and take that # and subtract the new pinion head and it will tell you how much shim to add, if that makes any sense at all

A deep pattern like that is actually what Richmond recommends for racing. They call it "competition pattern." As long as it's centered between the root and the crown seems to be the more important factor.

agjohn02
11-22-2006, 01:39 AM
and this is why i would not post a pic of my pattern on this board. webwheelers...:rolleyes:


looks good to me but what do i know.

Fredo
11-22-2006, 02:04 AM
and this is why i would not post a pic of my pattern on this board. webwheelers...:rolleyes:


looks good to me but what do i know.

How many sets of gears have you done John? (Honestly not trying to start anything, just curious)

RCcola55
11-22-2006, 02:12 AM
and this is why i would not post a pic of my pattern on this board. webwheelers...:rolleyes:


looks good to me but what do i know.


Ya thats why i set up my own gears in my bronco and plan on doing fricks when he gets his axle cleaned up... :rolleyes:

CheapJeep
11-22-2006, 02:20 AM
don't forget that ranch jeep I have too... :flipoff2:

redcagepatrol
11-22-2006, 08:33 AM
Thanks Captain Obvious. :flipoff2:

What I was asking about was did you pre or post heat? Any special wire, or just plain ol' solid core? I'm going to shave my new D70 before it goes it, just not sure how much I'm going to take off.

TIA.
We heated it up pretty good - more just to burn off any inpregnated oil than anything. I am not sure what wire he had in that machine - but we didn't change to anything special. No post heat.

The pattern could be a little better - but by that time it was just fine and I risked more damage (to bearings and shims) by changing it than I wanted to take... If it was in the rear I might have taken the time for two more iterations.

agjohn02
11-22-2006, 01:57 PM
How many sets of gears have you done John? (Honestly not trying to start anything, just curious)

alcohol was involved in that post.

what i meant to say, was i wouldnt post up my patterns unless i was asking for advice from people who i knew, knew wtf they were talking about. i did this on pirate when i set up gears and you get three diffent guys saying pinions too deep, add some shim, needs more RGS shim, all different crap that doesnt make sense. then you get the guy or two that you can tell by their username (tru-hi-nine, gearman, etc.) that they know what they are talking about. i have come to conclude that pattern reading is an art and you can not learn it from looking at pictures on the internet. what those guys were telling me was counter-intuitive to what i had read and seen pictures of.

redcagepatrol
11-26-2006, 11:56 PM
still looking for an AL bellhousing. I used my cast iron one and mocked up the engine / tranny / t-case / body. Looks like there will be plenty of cutting of the body for the t-case.

Have not had much time to work on it - We had the Thanksgiving dinner at our home and my sisters (with her four hyper kids) stayed till Sunday...

This weeks plans are to get the engine and tranny mounts done - start on the skid plate.

Doug Krebs
11-27-2006, 02:48 PM
I assume the one I gave you wouldn't work? I don't think the aluminum one's without the slave cylinder should be hard to find. You should mention that when you are asking for one.

redcagepatrol
11-27-2006, 02:57 PM
I think I found one for $40 - I'll be picking it up this week

redcagepatrol
11-30-2006, 12:57 AM
I plan on ordering a bunch of crap soon...

BMFScout
11-30-2006, 01:58 AM
Is that a seatbelt holding the engine?

Looks badass, everyone should have a 5.3. (or two)

agjohn02
11-30-2006, 02:02 AM
Is that a seatbelt holding the engine?


of course! a la A Pick-up Parts