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J Cooper
07-03-2005, 09:55 AM
the only thing i used from what you sold me was the block, everything else i got new

which was new
350, 4 bolt main, 30 over, aluminum flat top pistons, 300 hp rv cam, steel crank

Violentv8toy
07-03-2005, 10:58 PM
wow. that looks great!

what motor mounts/tranny/t-case did u use?

in my defense the only booty fab on my truck at the moment is probably my welded pitman arm.

agjohn02
07-03-2005, 11:32 PM
which was new
350, 4 bolt main, 30 over, aluminum flat top pistons, 300 hp rv cam, steel crank


in other words, the shortblock


im on dial-up for the weekend so i havent seen the pics yet but im glad the cats out of the bag. ive been biting my toungue and its getting sore. glad to hear it is going well.

Fredo
07-04-2005, 07:03 AM
excellent...the only problem I see is the carb on top of that motor.

mudtoy67
07-04-2005, 07:52 AM
That really awesome Coop! Nice clean install. So the next question is, when are you getting some full width 1ton axles? :D

J Cooper
07-04-2005, 02:23 PM
in other words, the shortblock





yes the freaking shortblock... geez guys :flipoff2:

J Cooper
07-04-2005, 02:25 PM
excellent...the only problem I see is the carb on top of that motor.


it has a different carb on it now... i had about 20 to pick from... the new one is a 4 barrel motorcraft... i know i know.. but i really does work great. and it has the choke and kickdown braket i needed

J Cooper
07-04-2005, 02:26 PM
. So the next question is, when are you getting some full width 1ton axles? :D


:D

J Cooper
07-04-2005, 02:27 PM
what motor mounts/tranny/t-case did u use?
.


advanced adapters mounts, th350, np205

Sharpe
07-04-2005, 04:38 PM
I think the next question is when are you going to paint the damn thing anything but primer?

TxCruzr
07-04-2005, 05:54 PM
excellent...the only problem I see is the carb on top of that motor.

Go back to your land of fuel injection and leave us cheap bastards alone :flipoff2:
What type of fuel pump are you running? That will make a big difference on how the carb does. The spring popped out of my old mech pump so I had to replace it with a cheap vatozone special and after that it ran like poopy and would starve on climbs. Put another new holley 80gpm pump on and it ran straight up with no probs this weekend :)

BMFScout
07-05-2005, 06:03 PM
I love the M/T valve covers, now you just need some of his tires to match!! Looks badass coop, when I get melba 2 we'll race...

J Cooper
07-05-2005, 06:13 PM
I love the M/T valve covers, now you just need some of his tires to match!! Looks badass coop, when I get melba 2 we'll race...

well those are real M/T valve covers that M.T. actually gave to the guy that gave them to me. he has a pair on his big block hes putting in his 59 stude, its like a ~~512
http://www.tamor.org/members-rigs/album161?page=1
he use to race with him back in the day, he built the sears cars for the first baha 500s and a bunch of crap like that.

and yes ill be ready :flipoff2:

J Cooper
07-07-2005, 10:41 AM
ok members rigs works now.. here are some pics

http://www.tamor.org/members-rigs/album160?page=1

and i have a chit load of toyota a 350 parts for sale if anybody needs something

and the outdrive on the boat is going out so i get a couple days away from that while we wait for parts on that, so im gonna load the truck on the trailer and get the exhaust put on and finish the guages today...

uglyota
07-07-2005, 10:48 AM
forkin' sweet...

aggieblazer07
07-07-2005, 12:07 PM
nice looking engine :gigem:

Sharpe
08-08-2005, 12:42 AM
So does charlie truck haul balls or what?

RCcola55
08-08-2005, 02:19 AM
saw charlie this past week in Port A while i was picking up some bait, looks good

mudtoy67
08-08-2005, 11:04 AM
speaking of Charlie truck, did you ever find the tcase shifter handle coop? I looked in the FJ and haven't seen it...

J Cooper
08-08-2005, 06:37 PM
yes the truck hauls ****ing balls... lay down rubber all 3 gears, its pretty sick... ask stacy. and yeah i saw your bronco ryan... thanks for saying hi ass :flipoff2:

and no i never found the shifter. so i dunno what to do about that.


here are some pics of other stuff done, this **** was all done weeks ago i just forgot to put up pics... so heres a couple of new ****. and updates

... new exhaust, put in HEI, put on an edelbrock carb, new alt, new tool box - 1 for tow straps and ropes and the big one for tools and **** and somewhere to stick all my stickers :flipoff2: , and i just got the power steering hose adapted for the second time since the ****ing beaners couldnt do it right the first time... my arms sure are getting strong with no power steering

J Cooper
08-08-2005, 06:39 PM
and yes i know the exhaust looks weird but it isnt as close as it looks and if you look at marios truck its almost the same

AgDieseler
08-08-2005, 08:36 PM
Nice military fuse box.

Violentv8toy
08-08-2005, 09:00 PM
that looks great. did u just use regular blockhugger headers? I used em and then got my exhaust done, but they started to tap the frame and blow the top of my gaskets out. i had to clearance the frame a bit to keep the flanges from hitting...then i had to cut the cross pipe out again and redo.

J Cooper
08-08-2005, 09:31 PM
that looks great. did u just use regular blockhugger headers? I used em and then got my exhaust done, but they started to tap the frame and blow the top of my gaskets out. i had to clearance the frame a bit to keep the flanges from hitting...then i had to cut the cross pipe out again and redo.


yeah i got the huggy headers on it. but i set the motor real low to keep a low center of gravity and also to clear exhaust flanges and dist. i didnt even have to modify the firewalll for the cap.

fbronco86
08-08-2005, 09:32 PM
yeah i got the huggy headers on it. but i set the motor real low to keep a low center of gravity and also to clear exhaust flanges and dist. i didnt even have to modify the firewalll for the cap.

so when do i get a ride :flipoff2:

Sharpe
08-08-2005, 10:40 PM
and yes i know the exhaust looks weird but it isnt as close as it looks and if you look at marios truck its almost the same
That's noting to be proud of :flipoff2: :laughing: So now you have a pickup with no room in the bed to pick anything up?

J Cooper
08-08-2005, 11:23 PM
So now you have a pickup with no room in the bed to pick anything up?


sure i do there is like 2 feet behind that tire... and the tire is just sitting there not like i cant just pull it out. still better than the back seat of a jeep.

RCcola55
08-09-2005, 01:13 AM
and yeah i saw your bronco ryan... thanks for saying hi ass :flipoff2:


hey the fishing was good and i was in a hurry and i didnt see you looking for me

btw, charlie sounded damn nice just idling there, i think it might need a cut out in there just for those days when u fill like pissing off the nieghbors

J Cooper
11-04-2005, 11:37 AM
so last night me and eric decided to fix my gearing issue...

summary:
red neck that sold eric truck said it had 4.88s
busa told me he sold the guy the rear axle from gregs toy
found out gears were mismatched- lower in front
assumption: stock rear 4.10s front 4.88s
eric finds me a 3rd member with 4.10s for front
pull apart front find it ****ed up and its like a ~3.8 ratio WTF?
eric decides the gear oil smells like a big black lunch ladies bonch
check rear ratio ~3.55s WTF??
so now we have 3 3rd members- all with different gear ratios
now have 4.10s in front and need yet another 3rd member for the rear now
then i went to the hall
... jason was drunk

J Cooper
11-04-2005, 11:42 AM
and i also broke my thottle cable so now i drive like this
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/ideas/untitled.jpg

JeepPhisherman
11-04-2005, 11:45 AM
are you having any cooling issues with that thing? esp with the exhaust wrapping around the oil pan?

J Cooper
11-04-2005, 11:49 AM
no, not at all, thats a pretty common set up

BMFScout
11-04-2005, 11:55 AM
this thread is worthless w/out drunk pics of hensel :) The part of the story I don't believe is that something axle related from Busa was trashed ;) What is a bonch?

J Cooper
11-04-2005, 12:02 PM
na, the axle from busa is fine, it just has a wierd ratio.. the red neck front is what is messed up... and ive already fixed lots of stuff on it already

i dont know if i should describe a bonch in this thread, its public

uglyota
11-04-2005, 12:11 PM
na, the axle from busa is fine, it just has a wierd ratio.. the red neck front is what is messed up... and ive already fixed lots of stuff on it already

i dont know if i should describe a bonch in this thread, its public
we think the rear is fine. easy to say, sight unseen :D
don't forget that the birfs were fine, we replaced axle seals and the rusted out top trunion bearings that nobody in America seems to know about, and once again Eric had to come over to save the day before 218 became a superfund site :D
and you would have to mix tater tots with the gear oil to get the exact smell...it was close to the same smell though...purely speculation though :laughing:

Fredo
11-04-2005, 12:16 PM
are you having any cooling issues with that thing? esp with the exhaust wrapping around the oil pan?

That exhaust isn't that close to the oil pan. I've seen much worse in factory applications. Hell, my camaro's exhaust is closer to the pan than that.

TxCruzr
11-04-2005, 12:21 PM
That and with the air flowing across it, its not going to be a problem.
There are a few mini trucks around town. I say we just go swap 3rds. Tell them they'll get better gas mileage :gigem:

uglyota
11-04-2005, 12:22 PM
...yeah you're gonna want those 3.5whatevers in the front so they'll turn faster and pull you through...

CRaSHnBuRN
11-04-2005, 12:49 PM
damn, that carrier is fawked up. I've seen some carriers gouged by the pinion, but never that deep.

CRaSHnBuRN
11-04-2005, 01:34 PM
the funny part is I should have the other diff from the truck that your new 4.10 diff came from, but I can't seem to figure out where it went. At this point I figure its either in my private scrapyard (the bottomless pit), or I sold it (to nutz, busa, ugly, etc?) a couple of years back

J Cooper
11-04-2005, 03:32 PM
well if any of you toyota kids have one or know where to find one at a good price let me know so i can buy it

bburris
11-04-2005, 05:17 PM
One of my buddies down here has a set of Toyota 4.10s from his IFS truck if that will work for you.

J Cooper
11-16-2005, 10:09 PM
so who wants to buy it? ill get the 4.10s new front drive shaft, make sure shake is gone, put on anti wrap bar, paint it, recarpet interior.
has brand new motor 355 with all the goodies... ill even put on all my tbi
350/205
auto meter guages
took box
all the stuff for a tire carrier w/spindle and hub and mount
stuff that is sitting in a box.
all new brakes... fj 80 stuff.
stereo
etc.

5k

ebay?

AggieTJ2007
11-16-2005, 11:02 PM
why you sellin it, you just built it

J Cooper
11-16-2005, 11:03 PM
cause im getting old and want a new truck... i already have a play toy.. i dont need two of them

william_ace
11-17-2005, 12:30 AM
i bet when you paint it and do all the stuff you have listed. you'll wanna keep it. just put ac in it and keep it for a while

RCcola55
11-17-2005, 12:36 AM
hahaha, coop's old :flipoff2:

sasquatch
11-17-2005, 02:03 AM
It sure is nice to drive a dd that is built for the road though.

eight
11-17-2005, 06:51 PM
And one that can pull a jeep.

J Cooper
01-09-2006, 01:26 AM
forgot to put up that last week when i was in town i dropped in the 4.10s in the rear

... wow that things moves now.


need: anti-wrap bar and get adapter to hook up rear breaks and crossover steering... steering is fine but i hate that push pull bull****

CheapJeep
01-09-2006, 01:47 AM
When are you going to be back in town? Maybe we could fab some traction bars this week?

J Cooper
02-21-2006, 04:57 PM
anyone have and HEI i can borrow for a day or so or maybe buy if needed... need to do an experiment with the truck.

talked to a couple people about it, like fred.
but the truck has this shake right at 2000 rpms and then goes away.. probably is it cruises right about there or right above it so driving around town gets annoying.

i ran the valves, replaced harmonic balancer, new wires, and timed it.

to me it seems like timing, but maybe its the distributor that is ****ed up, i changed the cap, rotor, and vacuum advance.... but nothing else.
distributor is the only thing not new on the motor and no idea if somehting was ****ed up with it or not, the vacuum advanced was ****ed so maybe something else is too.

and there is also the debate about the harmonic balancer alignment... i need to go to advanced and pull one off the shelf to check another one to make sure vatozone down south didnt sell me a bad balancer.


anyways ya.... distributor or any thoughts

Sharpe
02-21-2006, 05:14 PM
Charlie truck or jeep? If Charlie, need in cap coil?

J Cooper
02-21-2006, 05:31 PM
charlie

thats what im thinking it might need, running out of ideas

fbronco86
02-22-2006, 12:00 AM
Is the distributor gear in good shape? Check the timing it is moving all over the place might be giving you a bad reading?

Are you getting preignition at 2000 rpm? I would try adjusting timing or a tank of 93 octane.

Does your flywheel and balancer match? I know fords have counterbalance but I dont think chevy does that stuff. That can cause vibrations.

Your driveshalft could be outta balance too? Bad u-joint?

It could be a ton of things

eight
02-22-2006, 12:03 AM
I have one or 2. Not here of course.

J Cooper
02-22-2006, 12:07 AM
Is the distributor gear in good shape? Check the timing it is moving all over the place might be giving you a bad reading?

Are you getting preignition at 2000 rpm? I would try adjusting timing or a tank of 93 octane.
Does your flywheel and balancer match? I know fords have counterbalance but I dont think chevy does that stuff. That can cause vibrations.

Your driveshalft could be outta balance too? Bad u-joint?

It could be a ton of things

the timing does move around a bit, like it kinda jumps if you throttle down on it. (like this summer when i did it it would jump to like 65 degrees)

it starts shaking right before 2000 rpms and quits right after
what is a good degree to time to for optimal ?
i always run 93 in my vehicles

no flywheel... its automatic... but im concerned abou the balancer its self still... its new but i think its not right... but i dont know
bad balancer? it was used... came from BDR

and it does this in park... no u-joint

eight
02-22-2006, 12:16 AM
Well the balancer would be from a 305 then yes? That the same as a 350? By balancer you mean the harmonic balancer on the front or the flex plate on the back?

J Cooper
02-22-2006, 12:24 AM
i have a 350... but yes the balancer is the same ( at least thats what i saw on the computer at vatozone ) and i mean the harmonic balancer on the front of the motor

the reason i say i am sceptical is because the key way does dont line up with the timing line... but it was brand new.. i was told by half that it is that way and half that it should be lined up

robertf03
02-22-2006, 12:29 AM
if its doing this in park I'd check the balancer

stupid things to check...

firing order

vacuum advance port. some advance with vacuum, others retard w/ vacuum. might want to hook it up to a sweedish made penis enlarger and see which way it moves then hook it up to a vacuum port pre or post throttle, depending on what you find.


carb dumping enough fuel?

Is the balancer from BDR's old 307?

J Cooper
02-22-2006, 12:35 AM
if its doing this in park I'd check the balancer
stupid things to check...
firing order
vacuum advance port. some advance with vacuum, others retard w/ vacuum. might want to hook it up to a sweedish made penis enlarger and see which way it moves then hook it up to a vacuum port pre or post throttle, depending on what you find.
carb dumping enough fuel?
Is the balancer from BDR's old 307?

firing order if fine... the truck runs great, it just has that shake at low rpms

it has a new vacuum advance...and its the type you have to suck on
so maybe change the hose on the front of the carb?

and i was thinking that maybe it had something to do with the fuel pump... i was thinking about putting a small electric one on like on my jeep.

and by balancer if you mean torque converter yes its off BDRs TH350.
i bought the tranny and tcase from BDR
the motor is all new including the harmonic balancer

robertf03
02-22-2006, 12:39 AM
by balancer I meant harmonic balancer

If it runs great but shakes even under no load while in park in the driveway..... I'd be worried

If the distributor doesn't fix it, plastigauge time

J Cooper
02-22-2006, 12:43 AM
If it runs great but shakes even under no load while in park in the driveway..... I'd be worried

If the distributor doesn't fix it, plastigauge time

what do you mean "worried"??????

yes in the drive way in park, it shakes pretty bad at 2 grand

whats a plastigauge?

so should i do everything to the distributor first?
like check coil, vacuum and time it again or replace entire distributor

robertf03
02-22-2006, 12:55 AM
I guess I'd check vacuum setup out, then make sure its time correctly.

See if it still does it with the vacuum line plugged, and make sure you are setting the timing with it disconnected.



plastigauge is the strips you use to measure bearing clearances

is this a new engine or rebuilt? where did it come from?

Sharpe
02-22-2006, 12:56 AM
The harmonic balancers from 350s and 305 are different. Change that first. I have a coil in cap distributor back home if you arent in a hurry. Didnt I give you a distributor with the motor? It should have been a coil in cap HEI one.

J Cooper
02-22-2006, 01:04 AM
The harmonic balancers from 350s and 305 are different. Change that first. I have a coil in cap distributor back home if you arent in a hurry. Didnt I give you a distributor with the motor? It should have been a coil in cap HEI one.

the blancer is from a 350... at least that is what i asked for and told them like 5 times its a 350 not a 305 and thats what it said on the box... so it should be fine.

yes the distributor is from you, it is a in cap coil, i changed the vacuum advance on it cause it wansnt working, and the cap and rotor on it cause they were rusted like a mother ( actually dist. only thing i didnt buy new for the truck )


I guess I'd check vacuum setup out, then make sure its time correctly.

See if it still does it with the vacuum line plugged, and make sure you are setting the timing with it disconnected.


plastigauge is the strips you use to measure bearing clearances

is this a new engine or rebuilt? where did it come from?

the engine is rebuilt... i bought the short block from the man above and i put the oil pump, lifters, new heads, intake, carb, water pump, blancer, etc etc etc all together

the distributor was the only thing used and questionable.

the motor was rebuilt and still in the plastic covering

scoggins dickey kit
4 bolt main
bored .30 over
aluminum flat top pistons
300 horse cam
steel crank -- i think

and its new lifter and new heads


so.....

Sharpe
02-22-2006, 06:53 AM
It has a factory crank. That distributor ran good before the other motor blew up.

fbronco86
02-22-2006, 08:19 AM
Maybe you have a spark plug wire with to much resistance?

J Cooper
02-22-2006, 09:20 AM
brand new MSD wires put on last week... and i checked the resistance of the old wires and they were fine

fbronco86
02-22-2006, 09:24 AM
Did the cam get broke in right. Maybe you did not get the right wear pattern on the lifter and cam and it chewed up a lobe?


Is this problem getting worse or just staying the same?

J Cooper
02-22-2006, 09:28 AM
Did the cam get broke in right. Maybe you did not get the right wear pattern on the lifter and cam and it chewed up a lobe?


Is this problem getting worse or just staying the same?


shhhhhh, it might here you.... thats what i didnt want it to be


i dont know if its getting worse or not
its bad enough to be *****ing about it alot and not want to drive it

eight
02-22-2006, 11:26 AM
Is the flex plate the same between the 305 and 350?

agjohn02
02-22-2006, 11:28 AM
i never noticed any vibrations when my flexplate was bent and they arent keyed so im gonna say the flexplate isnt the issue. if it bolts up itll work.

stx4wheeler
02-22-2006, 01:17 PM
[QUOTE=fbronco86]Did the cam get broke in right. Maybe you did not get the right wear pattern on the lifter and cam and it chewed up a lobe?

by right do you mean romping on it from day one, *** :flipoff2: i would try the dizzy first and then, new balancer.

J Cooper
02-22-2006, 01:26 PM
hey i didnt romp on it from day one ***** :flipoff2: i waited like a couple weeks to be stupid


i would try the dizzy first and then, new balancer.

the balancer is new... ive said that like 5 times

here is a little clip of the motor, its hard to tell but if you look close you can see the vibration a little... its when im holding it constant.

i played with the vacuums adn the jets and timing.... everything i did makes the motor run worse... so i think its dialed in fine.

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album33/MVI_0022_001.avi

Doug Krebs
02-22-2006, 01:41 PM
damn who's hand is that on the throttle? That is one sexy hand :rainbow:

sasquatch
02-22-2006, 01:41 PM
who rebuilt the motor?

J Cooper
02-22-2006, 01:45 PM
i dont know.. ask sharp

sasquatch
02-22-2006, 01:56 PM
well, i'd try another distributor like you said, then go from there. i guess could the dist gear be worn out or fubared some way?

sasquatch
02-22-2006, 02:01 PM
It has a factory crank. That distributor ran good before the other motor blew up.

maybe the distributor blew up with it

J Cooper
02-22-2006, 02:05 PM
ya thats what i was thinking... i didnt know the old motor blew up... i thought it was just rebuilt

ya back to my first post i just wanna drop in another dist. before i do anything stupid

Sharpe
02-22-2006, 02:41 PM
Well the cam and lifters were brand new and the motor was rebuilt by Rogers Precision Machine down in Corpus. They are a very reputable company and I've never heard any complaints against them. That alternator was brand new when we put it on about 7 or 8 years ago, then I blew the motor and all its accesories went in the bed of the truck when I took the blown motor out 3 years ago. This is where you enter picture and buy rebuilt motor with all the accesories.

J Cooper
02-22-2006, 03:04 PM
thats right rogers... ya those guys are freaking bad ass.

thats the only thing i used that you gave me robert is what they did and the dist. which you can tell in the pic isnt in the best of shape... replaced vacuum advance cap and rotor.

alternator was bad.. heads had 5 cracks in them each, and didnt use any of the accesories

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/DSCF0062.jpg http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/DSCF0067.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/DSCF0077.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/DSCF0141.jpg http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/DSCF0151.jpg http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/DSCF0042.jpg

BMFScout
02-25-2006, 11:28 PM
done deal, I think you will like the one we found coop, it looks brand new...

J Cooper
03-03-2006, 02:33 PM
ok wasnt the distr.
firing order is right
wtf?

J Cooper
03-06-2006, 01:39 PM
alright, new NVG or whatever they are called plugs, MSC wires, new dist. times it 10 differnt ways... and the way i had it was exactly right... ****ed with fuel, ive already run the valves. still same shake right at 2k.
everyone keeps saying ****ed up cam or bad rods.
but this has done this since day one... and motor runs way to good to bed ****ed up... i mean i can rev the thing up to 5k if i wanted to and it couldnt be smoother.

i think its the torque converter. balance issue.
it has the shake right at 2k when speeding up... so ijust speed up faster and it doesnt shake :flipoff2:
but i did notice a trans leak coming from behind the dust cover. and when you are like driving down the road and hit the brakes to come to a stop the truck has a shake to it and to me it feels like the trans shaking its self down.
to test this i was going about 50 down texas and put it into neutral and then stepped on the brakes.... no shake.

so i guess this weekend im gonna pull the trans back and fire it up to test it out.

next step... should i put in a 4 speed, a manual or just get a good torque converter?
what is a good torque converter?

and stupid question.. but whats the easiest way to check if its a lock out style trans or not? i dont see a bunch of electrons hanging off but there are some things on it that are not being used.
i know useing the wrong TC would cause some ****.

BMFScout
03-06-2006, 01:50 PM
be careful running it without a tranny on there. How are you going to hold up the ass of the motor?

agjohn02
03-06-2006, 01:52 PM
and stupid question.. but whats the easiest way to check if its a lock out style trans or not? i dont see a bunch of electrons hanging off but there are some things on it that are not being used.


they're hard to see because they're reall really small, but i promise they are there

uglyota
03-06-2006, 01:53 PM
aw Jimmy don't be such a spoilsport
coop make sure and shoot video :D

J Cooper
03-06-2006, 01:53 PM
be careful running it without a tranny on there. How are you going to hold up the ass of the motor?

ya i know it will spin up alot faster... ill use a 2x4 through the leaf springs to hold it up.

whats the best way to fire it up without a trans attached?
lower the idle to almost nothing and just be very carefull reving it up?

J Cooper
03-06-2006, 01:54 PM
they're hard to see because they're reall really small, but i promise they are there

so your saying mine is a lock out style?

agjohn02
03-06-2006, 01:55 PM
so your saying mine is a lock out style?


add this to the end of my statement-> :flipoff2:

Sharpe
03-06-2006, 01:55 PM
Did you use the flexplate that I gave you with it? I know different motas have internal or external ballancing and say if I gave you the flexplate off a 6.2 by accident, or even a different gas mota, this might cause problems. I have a torque converter for th400 you can have, according to mario it will fit the th350. It came out of pigpen originally so it should work. I dont know about swapping in a manual, for starters they are fawking heavy. An SM465 weighs at least 200 pounds by itself and they are a bit "deeper" (tall) than a automatic. Too bad I just sold my hydraulic clutch setup for one. You will also need a whole new transfer case. Would flattened lobes on the cam be easy to spot if you took it out to inspect it? I know it'd be alot of work but there's no sense in spending money replacing tranny parts if thats what it might be.

agjohn02
03-06-2006, 01:56 PM
honestly though, a 700r4 or 4l60e will have a plug on top of the case above the pan on the drivers side.

Sharpe
03-06-2006, 01:57 PM
^ 5 fawking posts while I was typing that...

uglyota
03-06-2006, 01:58 PM
^ 5 fawking posts while I was typing that...
...horrible advice to try a used-ass TC to solve his problems

Sharpe
03-06-2006, 01:59 PM
Why?

uglyota
03-06-2006, 02:01 PM
how much does a new TC cost? And fragged TC = fragged tranny
and do you know the history of said TC (besides "came out of a parts truck")
:flipoff2:

agjohn02
03-06-2006, 02:03 PM
[QUOTE=uglyota] And fragged TC = fragged tranny
QUOTE]


this is true, ask me how i know

Sharpe
03-06-2006, 02:03 PM
It didnt come out of a parts truck you homo it came out of pigpen which was a running driving truck till I blew the motor. New TC's cost like 2-300, would YOU spend that much? Didnt think so...*****.

agjohn02
03-06-2006, 02:05 PM
New TC's cost like 2-300, would YOU spend that much? Didnt think so...*****.


is that for a gold plated one for a "sclade?

uglyota
03-06-2006, 02:06 PM
under $100 for Summit brand...

J Cooper
03-06-2006, 02:20 PM
i dont think i want a used TC... if it is the TC thats why im having this problem in the first place.
how do i know if i do have the right flex plate on there? is there a casting number on them or anything.
because this discussion of the flex plate came up months ago but i just told everyone that it was the one that should have came with the motor.

Sharpe
03-06-2006, 02:22 PM
I'm pretty sure you have the right one, maybe the Brunes can tell you for sure?

J Cooper
03-06-2006, 02:35 PM
if your sure that the TC you have is good do you have it up here?
and the right kind lock out or not.
thats why i was asking which one it was so im not a dumb ass and get the wrong kind of TC
its a TH350
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/album160/DSCF0053
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/album160/DSCF0054
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/album160/DSCF0132

Fredo
03-06-2006, 02:35 PM
I haven't swapped around enough autos to know which one you need, but If I remember right, there's nothing really different except for two-piece or one piece rear main and on two piece rear main, it depends on the mountin pattern on the back of the crankshaft. Other than that, I think it's pretty fool proof. I do however strongly suggest you do not fire up the engine without a transmission behind it, but if you decide you absolutely have to, take the flexplate off. Remind me and I'll tell you how my old boss got a scar from his ankle to above his kneecap sometime.

J Cooper
03-06-2006, 02:37 PM
well i guess i wont be doing that, i just dont know how to test it other wise... guess ill have to just buy another TC and hope thats whats wrong with it.

Sharpe
03-06-2006, 02:40 PM
No its at my shop but I can bring it back when I go home for the break, or I could take it to your house in Port A if you you want. I'm prety sure neither th400 or th350s have lockup converters, like I said Mario told me they would interchange because he wanted a 6.2 TC for his truck because it has a lower stall.

J Cooper
03-06-2006, 03:06 PM
hmm well i was planning on changing it out so i could go to port a for the break. it would blow ass if it went out on the way down there. and i really dont have the tools to **** with it down there. its not slipping or anything but you never know.
ill see what prices i can find, but i might go for that offer.

J Cooper
03-06-2006, 06:51 PM
ok when ordering a torque converter would you want a stall rating of like 2000rpm or one higher like 2400 or 2600 rpms. it never gets over 3000 and cruises at like 2000. so im guessing 2000...
just wanna make sure.

J Cooper
03-06-2006, 07:24 PM
ok i just went and pulled the dust cover off... and found something.

i forgot to mention that when i was putting all this **** together there was this old man that like lived in the garage i was working in. like he warked his wenibego outside. and one day i didnt show up at 7 cause i went out the night before... well i came by later and he was gone but i noticed he had put the trans up there by him self... i didnt think anything of it i just thought ok let him do the hard labor **** it. and he always had stories of his old hot rod shops... well i later found out he was full of ****... along with every other old man that thought they new every thing in the world about hot rods.

... well anyways what i saw was that the torque convert is bolted directly to the flex plate..

isnt this a no no??
so i checked on summit and found an instructions manual
and yes it says to space it 1/8 - 3/16
mother ****er...im gonna go find some ****ing washers and get back to you.

Shaggy
03-06-2006, 08:14 PM
red x

Sharpe
03-06-2006, 08:40 PM
On pigpen my torque converter is bolted directly to the flexplate. Thats the way every truck I've ever taken apart has been too, I've never seen one with spacers.

Shaggy
03-06-2006, 09:14 PM
i have never heard of a spacer there

J Cooper
03-06-2006, 09:41 PM
well either way it didnt work.

agjohn02
03-06-2006, 10:11 PM
2000 will be fine for you

J Cooper
03-08-2006, 10:36 AM
ok did some testing last night... i think i need to fix the steering first and then make some traction bars.... and then decide... i think the axle wrap makes the shake alot worse than it is while driving. i mean the motor does still shake when in park, but maybe its not some catostrophic engine failure type of shake. i also think i need to put the cross member on i bought from scotti. the toyota one doesnt have one of those torque stud things for the trans like the new one does or like my jeep.... i remember when the stud broke on my jeep it had a similiar shake while driving.

Reckless
03-08-2006, 03:17 PM
I talked with our transmission instructor, he said the spacers are for proper seating between the torque converter and the pump. Your are right about the summit manual but you may not need them if that is correct before. But he said try the "torque stud" first, if not it may be somthing in the torque conveter. He has had that problem with the certain types of mounts before, he said they can cause vibrations at certian frequencys, and that frequency may be at 2000 rpm

J Cooper
03-08-2006, 05:06 PM
alright sweet, thanks for asking him
thast what i thought it was since i did the swap but it seemed like too easy of a fix. and i always second guess my first thought... and then end up usually being right and kicking my self in the ass... well see

agjohn02
03-08-2006, 05:11 PM
axle wrap shouldnt be your problem, and ive never seen spacers on them either. this may be an old issue but are you d-shaft yokes out of phase? my rear pinion angles were not equal and opposite when i first did my swap and it vibrated. its was hard to diagnose too since it didnt seem to be a constant thing. when i put a cv on the rear it fixed it.

Reckless
03-08-2006, 05:13 PM
The yoke problem would be at any rpm.

agjohn02
03-08-2006, 05:32 PM
The yoke problem would be at any rpm.


you'd think wouldnt you?

J Cooper
03-08-2006, 05:45 PM
axle wrap shouldnt be your problem, and ive never seen spacers on them either. this may be an old issue but are you d-shaft yokes out of phase? my rear pinion angles were not equal and opposite when i first did my swap and it vibrated. its was hard to diagnose too since it didnt seem to be a constant thing. when i put a cv on the rear it fixed it.


pretty sure it is.. wanna come watch it jump around? didnt say it was the motor shake problem but driving it is a problem for sure. the shaft is on there the right way and its as equal as its gonna get... but soft ass toyota springs with all that torque = angry. it wrapped up like a mother when it had a 4 banger in it.
and no i dont have a cv shaft

the rpm shake does it in park so its not gonna be driveshaft related


oh and its not just the motor that shakes.... its the entire truck... thats another reason im leaning towards the trans mount.

Reckless
03-08-2006, 06:03 PM
Ill look at it tonight at the meeting.

J Cooper
03-26-2006, 01:37 AM
hi-steer

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/IMG_0003.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/IMG_0005.jpg

had to cut my new exhaust to fit the steering

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/IMG_0010.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/IMG_0011.jpg

box brace 1/4" plate

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/IMG_0014.jpg

i thought it looked like a coffin

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/IMG_0015.jpg

sleeved 5/8 bolts with 5/8 ID tubing through frame and welded them in and drilled through the back side of the frame

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/IMG_0016.jpg

3rd bolt on top

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/IMG_0019.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/IMG_0021.jpg

box mounted
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/IMG_0025.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/IMG_0029.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/IMG_0030.jpg

front view
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/IMG_0028.jpg


i also extended my front shackles by 3" to help with the clearance between the rods and the oil pan... im making bumpstops tomorrow to keep it from smashing the pan. and ill proabably add a leaf to help a little more.

need to look into finding a dropped pitman arm also.

CRaSHnBuRN
03-26-2006, 02:01 AM
did the shocks work?

agjohn02
03-26-2006, 02:07 AM
you gonna leave the exhaust like that?

Sharpe
03-26-2006, 02:11 AM
Would you have had to cut the exhaust if you didnt do hi-steer? If so, why did you bother with high steer since it isnt a wheelin truck?

stx4wheeler
03-26-2006, 02:20 AM
cause push,pull steering sucks asss

Sharpe
03-26-2006, 02:33 AM
I meant did crossover only and not high steer. It looks like the tierod is behind the draglink and if it had not been there the exhaust might have cleared the draglink.

BMFScout
03-26-2006, 03:28 AM
you had me at the sawzall picture. I wish I knew how to quit you! :)

J Cooper
03-26-2006, 01:32 PM
yes the shocks work,
hell ya im gonna leave it open headers!!! not really

and i got high steer because i got it all for $275.... go look up marlin or allpro and see how much they sell it for.

and yes push=pull sucks really bad on toyotas especially when they are lifted.

and the exhaust would have been in the way even if it wasnt high steer, go look at other pics of my exhaust and see how far forward it was routed

... and jimmy ;)

J Cooper
03-26-2006, 05:54 PM
bump stops

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/IMG_0001.jpg http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/IMG_0002_001.jpg http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/IMG_0003_001.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/IMG_0004_001.jpg

CheapJeep
03-26-2006, 06:17 PM
Nice work! Look's really clean. :gigem:

JeepPhisherman
03-26-2006, 09:34 PM
Looks good.

so that's where my steering box went...

J Cooper
03-26-2006, 09:36 PM
Looks good.

so that's where my steering box went...


ahh so if its ****ed up i know who to kill :flipoff2:

JeepPhisherman
03-26-2006, 09:47 PM
no, its not really mine

i was going to buy it from chris for a long ass time, then the weekend i finally ponied up to pick it up, he had sold it to you a few days before.

so... if you hear about another box, let me know, and your frame bracing looks good. you on board to help with the sas in the fall?

J Cooper
03-26-2006, 09:59 PM
ahh i gotcha
ill let you know if i see one.

i dont think ill be here in the fall... im suppost to be going to one of the graduation things or somehting like that

J Cooper
03-26-2006, 10:05 PM
oh and the truck is on the trailer ready to go get exhaust put on in the morning..

i was gonna drive it but all the places are in bryan and at about 2k flames start shooting out of the headers

sounds like a bad dude though haha

JeepPhisherman
03-26-2006, 10:22 PM
im suppost to be going to one of the graduation things or somehting like that

i heard those were overrated :flipoff2:

CheapJeep
03-26-2006, 10:44 PM
at about 2k flames start shooting out of the headers sounds like a bad dude though haha
Freakin' sweet! :cool:

HULK-1
03-26-2006, 10:59 PM
Haha, looks good coop

uglyota
03-27-2006, 12:38 PM
I was gonna ask if I needed to come over tonight and help finish...
Turned out really good!
pix of the shackles?
:gigem:

agjohn02
03-27-2006, 12:42 PM
oh and the truck is on the trailer ready to go get exhaust put on in the morning..

i was gonna drive it but all the places are in bryan and at about 2k flames start shooting out of the headers

sounds like a bad dude though haha


yeah, i chickened out of driving the scout to the exhaust shop when i finished the lt1 swap too.

J Cooper
03-27-2006, 03:04 PM
I was gonna ask if I needed to come over tonight and help finish...
Turned out really good!
pix of the shackles?
:gigem:

nope finished it all by my self on sat., only took a couple hours. really didnt take that long, considering i kinda had to start over. ***

the brace that you measured was like 4 1/2" too tall.
so i took it all down, cut the welds and measured, remounted everything and recut it all... and then went to welding and torching.

im happy with the way it turned out.


no pics of the shackles....

however i can now say i have driven a vehicle with death wobble... all the bushing are toast... so im ording some new ones

oh and muffler shops in CS blow goat balls,

mcallisters said the guy that does that wont be here today. what exhaust??? wtf? it was 1 1/2 feet of tube

that being said the guy at rusty muffler charged me $54 for that same piece. oh well its done

uglyota
03-27-2006, 03:08 PM
easier to take material off than put it back on

J Cooper
03-27-2006, 04:21 PM
si

heres the new exhaust... and a pic of it on the trailer... felt like it was going on a trip :flipoff2:



http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/IMG_0001_001.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/IMG_0002_002.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album160/IMG_0003_002.jpg

Sharpe
03-27-2006, 04:33 PM
Thats great and peachy and all but when are you going to paint the damn thing? $10 worth of walmart paint and you will move up one full social bracket.

J Cooper
03-27-2006, 04:34 PM
as soon as i have money NOT to have to use walmart paint :flipoff2:

sasquatch
03-27-2006, 04:51 PM
walmart paint is the shat

Sharpe
03-27-2006, 04:57 PM
I'm talking about temporarily. Even a walmart paintjob with runs and **** in the paint is better than rusting primer. When you can afford a real paint job you can sand the old **** off (which you will have to anyway at the rate your crap is rusting).

J Cooper
03-27-2006, 05:09 PM
well since everything is working now besides the new skid and the torque converter.. im about to finish the body work and paint it for real. i dont wanna take the time to paint over it when im stripping all the old primer off anyways here pretty quick.

but ill see, im painting the truck satin black anyways but i dont want it rattle canned

CheapJeep
03-27-2006, 05:19 PM
but ill see, im painting the truck satin black anyways but i dont want it rattle canned
What's wrong with rattle canned satin black??? :laughing:

eight
03-27-2006, 05:36 PM
Yea we need to set that paint booth up again. I have a spray painter.

agjohn02
03-27-2006, 05:42 PM
I have a spray painter.

http://www.metropartsmarket.com/krylon/K_snap_spray.jpg

sasquatch
03-27-2006, 05:44 PM
***