Dana 60

[CRaSHnBuRN]

for those of you who have, or are building a D60, what do you have in it money wise? A breakdown would be nice. Were there any unexpected costs? Perhaps something you didn't think of or know about until you started building one?















Oh yeah, I'm only interested in people who have built a junkyard axle, and tried to keep it somewhat cheap (sorry scott :flipoff2: )

[Doug Krebs]

I will work on this for you tommorow at work...

Quick things...

Rotors
Brakes
Lug studs
Kingpin rebuild
Steering arms studs

I'll discuss price and other things tommorow when I'm bored

[fbronco86]

It really depends on what you need

[CRaSHnBuRN]

It really depends on what you need

which is the reason behind this post. I'm just trying to make sure I have a list of things to check on, and what to expect cost wise to make it useable. This would be a trail only rig, so I don't see a need to rebuild anything unless it really needed it. I have a basic plan right now, but I want to see if the cost estimates I have are good

[CRaSHnBuRN]

As for my plans, here is a rough idea
Chevy or Dodge D60 with stock 4.56 gears
home built tie rod (in stock location) and drag link
single high steer arm on passenger side for drag link
hydro assist (I just need the ram, everything else is there)
Welded diff or cheap locker
35 spline throughout if funds alot at install time

[Sharpe]

A fully rebuilt D60 will run you about $2-2500.

I dont remember how much all he individual pieces cost right off hand but I know that is what most people who arent Kreb's spend on building theirs.

[Cajun]

There's no need to fully rebuild for a trail only rig. Clean it, add your steering and locker of choice, 35 spline upgrade w/flanges and call it done.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

that is the basic plan. I don't think I have ever fully rebuilt an axle before using it, including the one on my old black truck. I only replaced the seals, rotors, and trunion bearings on it, because I had the parts.

[uglyota]

or weld your draglink to the stock one, pop the cover off and throw some 6011 at the spiders, pour the old gear oil back in and call it good!

[Doug Krebs]

My axle wasn't complete, it was missing the poly kingpin bushing and had some fubared steering studs. It was also missing one caliper. Being it sat in the junkyard on the ground, both rotors were pitted. One of them wasn't horrible, but it was undersized. I tried not to be a joo about most things and replaced somethings some people wouldn't.

Rebuilt kingpins $45 per side x 2 = $90
Steering arm studs $4.XX X 8 ~$80
All new seals ~20ish?
8 new lug Studs $1.xx ~15ish?
1310 yoke $30
Brakes I can't really remember ~180 ish for new rotors, calipers, and shoes

So I have at least $415 into it?

Most people don't rebuild the kingpins, but the top of mine was out when I got it and a couple years ago when I got it, I thought it was going under a daily driver. So I pulled the entire thing apart and ordered a kingpin rebuild kit.

Some people don't use the expensive ARP steering studs. Grade 8 bolts fit as well and people have good luck with them. I built my own steering arms. I also have an extra I fubared, but only 1 hole. If you were using heims, it could be drilled out. I was using TRE and grabbed the wrong endmill and made the whole a wee bit too big.

Things I didn't do...

Change any bearings, all of them including the spindle bearings looked good. Didn't change u-joints, they were the spicer OEM and felt tight. If I changed U-joints I'd probalby upgrade to the 35 spline crap.

The yoke was a weird deal, some of the dodge yokes don't have the little tits on the end that holds the caps in. I should have just welded them in since the klogger ended my new yokes life fairly quickly:D

You can see how **** adds up, so buying one that was under a running truck might be better although more expensive.

[AgDieseler]

My 100% rebuild with a detroit, gears, steering, 35 spline, and all new everything cost about $2200.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

good info there Doug. If I go through with this I definitely want to talk to you about that steering arm. David, I assume that price included the original price of the axle, right? Eric, please step away from the crack pipe :flipoff2:

So far, I see no reason I couldn't afford to do the swap if I sold my current axles and spare stuff I have laying around. I may wait on the 35 spline stuff for a while though.

BTW, can you do a square driveshaft with parts from a domestic driveshaft? I know its easy to do with toyota stuff, but I seem to recall non toyota people having problems. If I could, it would save me money by allowing me to simply replace the toyota end of the front driveshaft with the stuff that came stock on the D60

[Doug Krebs]

David bought a bare housing with one knuckle if I remember. He pretty much built it from the ground up with new or used parts.

[uglyota]

Eric, please step away from the crack pipe :flipoff2:
unfortunately I didn't make that up...well at least not the draglink part

[CRaSHnBuRN]

so how exactly do you expect that to work? Just weld my current draglink to the chevy draglink?

[uglyota]

sure, aren't they push-pull? :D

[AgDieseler]

David bought a bare housing with one knuckle if I remember. He pretty much built it from the ground up with new or used parts.
Pretty damn close. I started with a bare housing, two knuckles, a long side inner shaft, and a cover - that's it. I danced a jig when I found bearing hubs and caliper brackets.

[Shaggy]

I have over 3K in mine and i dont even have it done yet

and that is just in parts no original cost

[BMFScout]

I danced a jig when I found bearing hubs and caliper brackets.

The man dances a mean jig, I've got a pic from 'nawlins to prove it.

[uglyota]

just a pic? There's video somewhere...

[eight]

I've got about $850 in mine. It cost $700 with 2 sets of hubs and a high steer arm. Had to put new calipers and pads on it. Used the steering links from the d44. The high steer arm is on with bolts and they loosen. I will soon replace them with studs and lug nuts like the stock arm. Also had that weird dodge yoke which I replaced with a ford one.

[redcagepatrol]

$50 axle from friend
$475 4340 shafts
$330 u-joints
$475 knuckles
$200 two spindles
$20? new inner axles seals
$90 kingpin rebuild
$205 warn 35 spline hubs
$100 Chevy bearing hubs
$16 rotors turned
$8 paint
$610 Detroit
$220 gears
$50? minor gear set up kit
$28 pinion bearing
$90 1410 yoke
$60 calipers
$30? brake pads
$30 new spindle studs
$80 new steering arm studs
$260? steering arms
$200? tie rod and ends

I plan on re-using all the wheel bearings and both carrier bearings assuming that I don't screw those up like I did with the Pinion bearing

I don't even want to add this up...

[CheapJeep]

Sounds like a plan. :gigem:

BTW- Do you know where you are ordering all this from?

[redcagepatrol]

4wd hardware - near Austin.
I ordered the gears and locker from 4 wheel parts
the yoke from Jesse @ high angle
the bearing hubs from the junkyard

Keep in mind that if you arder from someone in another state you don't have to pay sales tax - that could have saved me some money if I would of thought of it sooner...

I still need to get the steering arms and brake pads, still waiting on the Yoke and Detroit

[Sharpe]

I know a place where you can get a detroit for $500, its where I got mine. I'll have to look it up in my receipt book when I get home.

[AggieTJ2007]

yeah, 4wp has the detriot online for like 550

[redcagepatrol]

yeah, 4wp has the detriot online for like 550
don't forget to add tax and shipping