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JeepPhisherman
03-20-2006, 02:36 PM
Well, I'm bored as **** at the office and all my bosses are at on-site meetings, so I figured it was time for me to make a thread about my truck.

As it sits right now:
About as stock as it can be. 1998 IFS Toyota Tacoma SR5 with the TRD package. I've messed around in the engine compartment and done a few electical mods, but other than that, nothing.

My plans:
44 up front
keep the stock rear
front bumper
rear bumper
sliders
etc.

So far, I've picked up a 44 out of an 87 Waggy from a LHOR member in Austin that is pretty complete, minus a spindle nut and a caliper that I was going to replace anyway. I plan on building up the axle for a few month and locating parts before I begin the actual swap, which is scheduled tentatively in the fall of this year sometime. I've also bought some warn manual hubs from ebay for 65 shipped.

Currently, I'm looking at some flat top knucklesfrom a guy in Cali, drilled/tapped with studs and ball joints for 250 plus shipping; and trying to decide what tires/gears to run. I initially planned on 35's with either 4.56 or 4.88, but after reading through some posts on pirate and ttora, I think 37s and 4.88s might work better with the gearing combination, as I've heard good reports of the road manners with them and I will be dd'ing this truck for a while. I am concerned about the cost of stepping up from 35s to 37s though, as far as new shafts and possibly ctm's for the front and shafts and some sort of longfield for the rear. I had hoped to not mess with the rear yet, so I might have to stick with 35s until some breakage allows me to upgrade.


edit:
These are the knuckles I'm planning on buying. I've found other flat tops on eBay, but by the time I buy/ship and have them machined, drilled, and tapped, I figure 250 is worth it. Unless doug wants a project...
http://i24.ebayimg.com/03/i/06/94/02/77_3.JPG

JeepPhisherman
03-20-2006, 02:55 PM
For those visual learners...

william_ace
03-20-2006, 04:15 PM
looking good man... lets keep it goin with the parts collection. 4.88s and 37s seems like the right combo. i like that idea...

redcagepatrol
03-20-2006, 06:15 PM
I run 37's and the stock rear shafts - you should be fine

tigweld
03-20-2006, 06:54 PM
I run 37's and the stock rear shafts - you should be fine

ring gears, now thats a different story

uglyota
03-20-2006, 07:00 PM
with no tcase gearing that drivetrain will be just fine...
garrett is your truck a 2.7?

JeepPhisherman
03-20-2006, 07:18 PM
its a 3.4


I plan on keeping the engine/tranny/and xfer case stock for now. theres not even enough $$ in the budget for the sas, let alone crawlers and new tcase gearing

JeepPhisherman
03-20-2006, 07:33 PM
ring gears, now thats a different story

whats the deal with this, is busting a ring gear a common thing?

will using the thick gear sets help at all?

JeepPhisherman
03-20-2006, 09:55 PM
Ok, as far as building up the 44 to handle 37's, what should I do there? I'm open to suggestions.

Shafts: I'm thinking I'm going to stick with stock shafts right now and just replace them with some USA alloys or yukons whenver I bust something.

Joints: Found a set of ox joints for $200, maybe can talk him down to 150, but are they worth it? I havent seen much on how they hold up and their difference from other joints makes me leary. If I dont go this route, should I just stick with some stock joints (5-260 or 5-760, heard they both had about the same strength) or do I need to invest in some quality joints. Not sure I want to dump the 200 ea. on CTMs, but a little extra beef wouldnt hurt.

Gears: As I said, looking at running 4.88. Are all the gears pretty much the same, or are some better than others? What about having them cryo'ed?

Locker: Dont have a clue. Not sure I can afford the 800+ for an ox, arb, or eaton, but selectable would be nice. I'm thinking maybe run an open front for now, so I dont bust anything and save on cost, and throw in a locker later. I've also been considering just running a lunchbox up front for now and getting rid of it down the road. Pollakkah is not an option.

Diff guard: Looking at either a crane, PSC, or FF cover to keep everything protected up front.
edit: do we get any kind of discount at FF? I'd like to support them, but damn their covers are expensive

CheapJeep
03-20-2006, 10:04 PM
I think you'd be ok on not upgrading to chromo shafts as long as you don't get too crazy with the throttle. Same as the u-joints. Like your saying, save some money for awhile because the sas is going to cost alot up front.
I went through the same thing talking with Ethan at PolyPerformance today, when he priced the chromo shafts plus CTM's I almost fell out of my chair. I'd try not to break the bank right now, then if you decide or find out that you need to upgrade then do it. Just my opinion. :gigem:

william_ace
03-20-2006, 10:14 PM
i totally agree with robbie. when/ if somthing breaks. then replace it with upgraded stuff.

eight
03-20-2006, 10:33 PM
I ran 35s and 36s on stock shafts and joints with a welded front. It worked fine. You should be OK. I wouldn't worry about it at all if you left the front open. You probably aren't going to wheel that newer truck real hard yet anyway. I'd set it up for and run 35s with a locker now, and in a few years after its got some dents and such you can cut the fenders for 37s or bigger and put in fancy shafts if you want.

JeepPhisherman
03-21-2006, 01:50 PM
The only thing about running 35s right now is gearing. 4.56s seem like they would be right for a mostly dd rig, but I hate to put those in there, just doesnt seem like a big enough jump for 4.11s to make it worth it. Hell I dont, 37 just seem like more fun :flipoff2:

And you're right, towelie-ban wont be making extreme runs until I graduate and buy another truck, which is why 37s seem like a good choice to make most stuff easily wheeled as opposed to 35s.


So, thats a no on the ox joints? No one has had any experience with them? (search is down on pirate...)
I guess I dont want my shafts being the weak link right now, so maybe 760 joints will work for now.

stx4wheeler
03-21-2006, 01:57 PM
i would run 35's with stock shafts, and get a lunchbox for the front if you are gonna keep it as a daily driver. bigger tires only lead to more breakage, and more money in the upgrading process, or compromise and get yourself a set of 36 irocks. plus it is much easier to get a 35 inch spare or another tire if you trash one on the trail or something, so you arent having to buy another expensive tire for a spare.

eight
03-21-2006, 02:42 PM
So put run 4.88s with 35s. With 35s and 2 lockers you'll be able to get yourself further into trouble than you want. Bigger tires don't just make small stuff easier, they make you want to try harder stuff. 90% of the trails we run can be done on 33s.

JeepPhisherman
03-21-2006, 03:08 PM
So put run 4.88s with 35s. With 35s and 2 lockers you'll be able to get yourself further into trouble than you want. Bigger tires don't just make small stuff easier, they make you want to try harder stuff. 90% of the trails we run can be done on 33s.

4.88s and 35s dont make for good highway rpms, thats why i've been leaning towards the 4.88s and 37s, ive heard several cases of still being able to maintain 75-80 with stock rpms

StevenAg03
03-21-2006, 03:43 PM
if your hoping to retain the 20mpg or whatever you currently get, then modification is not for you.

sasquatch
03-21-2006, 03:55 PM
why not get something other than 4.88s with and get 35s

JeepPhisherman
03-21-2006, 04:21 PM
if your hoping to retain the 20mpg or whatever you currently get, then modification is not for you.

I know it wont be 21 still, but I've talked to guys running 37s and still getting ~18 on the highway

eight
03-21-2006, 05:21 PM
You'll get worse with 4.88s and 37s than with 4.88s and 35s.

JeepPhisherman
03-22-2006, 10:42 AM
Ok, as far steering goes, I'm going to do high-steer with tall arms to allow everything to fit nicely over the leafs. But, I havent decided whether to go with heims or TRE's. I've done a little bit of searching, and I'm thinking heims right now, but just because I found a guy trying to get rid of his steering after going full hydro, and his is set up with heims.
What's going to work out better on the mostly dd, then mostly dedicated wheeler after I graduate?

BMFScout
03-22-2006, 10:53 AM
TRE's on a daily driver, but that is just me. There are lots of guys out there running heims without problems. I just say there is a reason the factory uses them, and they are at every parts store.

TxCruzr
03-22-2006, 12:13 PM
I'd stick with the 35s for a reliable DD and to keep the breakage low when you do wheel. I've never had a problem with the heims on my front steering but if you can save a few bucks with TREs then go for it. They all work just as good.

uglyota
03-22-2006, 01:08 PM
yup, rod ends will be cheaper and stay tighter longer than heims. You gotta spend some money to get a good tight heim that will last

stx4wheeler
03-22-2006, 01:17 PM
tre's all the way they will last much longer.

agjohn02
03-22-2006, 01:31 PM
...and they are at every parts store.


big plus

JeepPhisherman
03-27-2006, 11:57 AM
Looking at buying a heim steering setup from a guy off of pirate.

Spidertrax arms, about 1.5 yrs old with 1/2" spacer welded to them (is that safe?)
Tie-rod and drag-link both 1-1/2" x 3/8" wall (thick enough?)
8 heims (not sure on manufacturer, going to ask)
all grade 8 bolts, shims ,etc
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6dd06b3127cce97a3c2e6e7c700000016100Acs3Ddi0ZsW Og
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6dd06b3127cce97a3c2a366b200000016100Acs3Ddi0ZsW Og


He's also got a brand new rebuilt ifs box with hydro ports from PSC, but its pretty pricey.

uglyota
03-27-2006, 12:42 PM
If the heims are teflon-lined and it's a good price go for it. .25 tubing is the norm, so 3/8 is fine.

AggieTJ2007
03-27-2006, 01:34 PM
looks good, i wouldn't worry about the spacer, I think cox runs a 1" spacer on his

agjohn02
03-27-2006, 03:09 PM
yeah but mine arent welded and they are spacers between the arm and knuckle. those look like they are between the heim and arm. looks fine to me.

JeepPhisherman
03-27-2006, 03:56 PM
Thats what I was asking about. I've seen spacers b/w knuckle and arm, but never seen anyone just do it like this, I guess because it would only for for heims. I'm not sold on those arms. I'm not sure I like the idea of buying used arms, especially from a company that got out of the market and only deals with zukes now.

I think I'm going to try and get the tie rod, drag link, and maybe the heims, then go on and find some other arms, probably parts mike stuff.

JeepPhisherman
03-29-2006, 09:26 AM
Bought these last night...
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6dd08b3127cce8857cf8c41e600000016100Acs3Ddi0ZsW Og

Pretty good deal, and if I decide I don't want to go heims, the arms will just find their way back to eBay in the great circle of life



I think I might just go ahead and buy the chit from the other guy too. There hasnt been much other interest, so I think I can talk him down a little, and maybe get him to throw in his old brake stuff too, so that'd be one less thing. Just not sure on his link lengths. I called parts mike yesterday and he told me way completely different numbers for his links, yet this stuff is comming off the exact same setup (waggy 44, taco frame, older ifs box). the only thing different I could think of, would be the pitman arm lengths?

agjohn02
03-29-2006, 10:40 AM
I called parts mike yesterday and he told me way completely different numbers for his links, yet this stuff is comming off the exact same setup (waggy 44, taco frame, older ifs box). the only thing different I could think of, would be the pitman arm lengths?


this happened to me too. i was getting totally different numbers than the supplier with the same set-up was giving me. i just went with my measurements and it worked out perfectly.

JeepPhisherman
03-29-2006, 02:46 PM
this happened to me too. i was getting totally different numbers than the supplier with the same set-up was giving me. i just went with my measurements and it worked out perfectly.


Only problem is, I don't have anything to mock up right now to get measurements off of and I'm trying to buy this used ****. I guess, worst case, I could cut his stuff down since it seems to be way longer than what Parts Mike is telling me.

uglyota
03-29-2006, 03:03 PM
what is "way longer?"
do you have any reason not to believe the guy? Pitman arm shouldn't effect DL length more than a few CHs ;)

JeepPhisherman
03-30-2006, 09:10 AM
what his are
dl= 39.5"
tr= 45"

what I've heard,
dl= 28.5"
tr= 39"

both are supposedly to end of DOM

JeepPhisherman
04-08-2006, 06:28 PM
Is $100 a decent price for some stock used shafts from a 44 with newish 760 joints?

stx4wheeler
04-09-2006, 02:00 AM
thats not to bad a deal

JeepPhisherman
04-15-2006, 07:53 PM
got a bunch of stuff at the office on friday, it was like xmas, i was all giddy and whatnot

I'll get pics when my camera gets back from sony, but I got:

crane diff cover (wanted the FF cover just to support them, but found this one for a bargain)
steering shaft from a 91 toy truck, figure I can lengthen it to work with...
toyota ifs steering box

and my new FROR transfer case crossmember should be here tues.
I don't really need it now, but I found it on the cheap, and when i add in another case, i just need to make new frame mounts for it. it will also allow a semi flat belly skid

Next up, I need to order gears. But I haven't decided if I'm going to go with a front lunchbox locker and twin sticks, or just keep it open right now. I'm leaning towards twin sticks, but I'm not 100% percent right now. Just figured instead of throwing $50 at a new carrier, just toss a pay check and go for the locker.

Also, I think Feller has talked me into hydro assist, since he's going to port and tap my box for me :flipoff2: . So, I need to find a ram and figure out all the extra chit for that, since I hadn't planned on any type of hydro with the 35's.

CRaSHnBuRN
04-15-2006, 11:11 PM
no, no, you misunderstood me. I said I would drink beer (which you are to supply) while yelling instructions at you :flipoff2:

JeepPhisherman
04-15-2006, 11:16 PM
no, no, you misunderstood me. I said I would drink beer (which you are to supply) while yelling instructions at you :flipoff2:

it was worth a try!

I've been looking at rams all night, so we'll see. I might run out of things to do this summer before the swap in the fall, so I might add the assist just out of desperation for something to do, especially since I'm only taking 9 hrs this summer, instead of the planned 21.

CRaSHnBuRN
04-15-2006, 11:24 PM
what kind of rams have you been looking at? I also forgot to mention that with hydro assist you may want to add a larger reservoir, and maybe a cooler. I found a really good deal on the reservoir at speedway motors. I think it was 25 bucks, while most places wanted 50-80 dollars.

CRaSHnBuRN
04-15-2006, 11:26 PM
another thing to consider is you can tap and port the box, but you don't have to run hydro assist. Simply get some plugs for the holes, the when you're ready to add the ram you are ready, and it saves alot of work, and you may not even have to remove the box to add the hoses

JeepPhisherman
04-16-2006, 10:00 AM
That's what I was thinking last night.

Rams I've been looking at are the rock logic, psc, and rockstomper. Haven't found much else, but I'm sure they're out there. Looking for something 1.5" bore with an 8" stroke.

As far as a reservoir, I thought a cooler with some decent capacity would work, probably just a tranny cooler with some largish lines to make up for not having a reservoir, but we'll see.

CRaSHnBuRN
04-16-2006, 04:34 PM
you see, that was my same idea, but by using an inline filter. But it doesn't work, because the problem isn't the need of extra fluid, but for a place for it to go when the ram cycles

As for the ram, have you thought about one from surplus center, or some place like that? I know they don't have heims, but you can have it drilled and tapped for a heim. Just an idea.

redcagepatrol
04-16-2006, 09:56 PM
That's what I was thinking last night.

Rams I've been looking at are the rock logic, psc, and rockstomper. Haven't found much else, but I'm sure they're out there. Looking for something 1.5" bore with an 8" stroke.

As far as a reservoir, I thought a cooler with some decent capacity would work, probably just a tranny cooler with some largish lines to make up for not having a reservoir, but we'll see.

I have one in my garage that I used for my hydro assist. I'll sell it for $50

JeepPhisherman
04-17-2006, 08:12 AM
I have one in my garage that I used for my hydro assist. I'll sell it for $50

As long as its not from wto, I'll take it. Got a picture you can pm me?

redcagepatrol
04-17-2006, 08:29 AM
if you look real close, you can see it in here.

this is the only picture I could find.

It's a Chief ram 1.5 x 8 x 1" rod.

uglyota
04-17-2006, 08:40 AM
does your truck have a rack and pinion steering? Why doesn't your stock box work?

JeepPhisherman
04-17-2006, 08:50 AM
does your truck have a rack and pinion steering?

yes

JeepPhisherman
05-05-2006, 10:01 AM
Lockright or Aussie up front?

uglyota
05-05-2006, 10:07 AM
spool/minispool/weld...you're gonna have hydroassist, right?

JeepPhisherman
05-05-2006, 10:15 AM
spool/minispool/weld...you're gonna have hydroassist, right?

no and yes

deffinitely going with a lunchbox up front with twinsticks to keep turning ez

JeepPhisherman
05-10-2006, 10:31 AM
Just dropped a good bit of change on 4.56's, master installs and a lockright for the 44.
First goodies I've ordered in a while.

Anyway, is there a kit or anything around to rebuild the 44? Don't know what all I need yet, as the axle is still sitting at the gf's parents place in Austin, but I'm sure I'll need to replace all the seals and bearings.

And, who knows how to set up gears. I'd do it myself, but I guess if I have to ask, I shouldn't be doing it, but I'd like to learn.

eight
05-10-2006, 11:06 AM
I don't think there is a rebuild kit. The pinion and carrier bearings and the inner axle and pinion seals should be included in the master install kit. You should also replace the ball joints. If the wheel bearings are still good I'd use them, but they're available at any parts store, if you replace the bearings replace the races too. You also need to check on the needle bearings inside the spindles. There is a little rubber seal that goes in the back side of the spindle. And a bigger rubber seal that goes over the stub shaft, it seals between the stub shaft and spindle and is often not there.

JeepPhisherman
05-10-2006, 12:37 PM
I've got brand new spindles that came with my knuckles, I guess I'll just need to replace the wheel bearings, since I'll be tearing it apart anyway and running a minimally bs'ed wheel.

JeepPhisherman
10-04-2006, 04:13 PM
Finally got around to actually doings something last night. After the power came back on I started tearing apart the 44. Mostly wrestled with the castle nuts on the knuckles, but I got those off. Discovered I left most of my tools back in NC somehow, so I've been cruising CL looking for tools in the Austin area, and I've made 5-6 visits to Harbor freight.

Hopefully I'll have most of the axle apart this weekend, get it all cleaned up, and get started on rotating the knuckles next week. So anyone want to help out with welding them back on the tubes midish-week next week?

I also need to get back on the boards and get some research going to figure out what I want to do as far as suspension goes.

I'm still looking for a scout steering box, but in the mean time I'll probably rebuild or atleast clean up the toy box I have now, so if I sell it, it will be all purdy for eBay.

JeepPhisherman
10-06-2006, 01:51 PM
Anyone have one of those bearing lock nut sockets? Do they have them at horeiley's? Price? Or should I just make one out of pvc.

JeepPhisherman
10-06-2006, 01:53 PM
And what are some decent brands of dial indicator and which ones should I avoid.

Unless someone else has the tools and the know-how, I'm going to attempt the gear/locker install by myself since no one volunteered to help.

sasquatch
10-06-2006, 01:56 PM
cen-tech stuff seems to be cheaper and pretty good. you got a lunchbox locker right? they aren't too hard, just follow the instructions and you'll be fine

CRaSHnBuRN
10-06-2006, 02:04 PM
And what are some decent brands of dial indicator and which ones should I avoid.

Unless someone else has the tools and the know-how, I'm going to attempt the gear/locker install by myself since no one volunteered to help.

when are you going to do this? I don't have the tools, other than normal sockets and ****, but if I can I'll try to help since I'm also interested in learning how to do this

JeepPhisherman
10-06-2006, 04:50 PM
when are you going to do this? I don't have the tools, other than normal sockets and ****, but if I can I'll try to help since I'm also interested in learning how to do this

As soon as I get the knuckles off and rotated and get the axle cleaned up and painted, I'll throw the 4.56's in there with the lock right.


Also, anyone ever busted an inner c? I figure if I've ever going to replace one, I might as well do it now, since I'm taking them off to rotate them. I'm not even sure what kind of force would allow for an inner c to bust, but a couple of the build-ups of 44's I've seen involved crane's inner c's. If it matters, this 44 will probably be built up quite a bit in the future, but I'm just starting off mild. Shafts, and ctms will be added soonish along down the line most likely.

JeepPhisherman
10-06-2006, 04:51 PM
cen-tech stuff seems to be cheaper and pretty good. you got a lunchbox locker right? they aren't too hard, just follow the instructions and you'll be fine


It's not the locker I'm worried about. I've done that before, never touched a set of gears though.

eight
10-06-2006, 05:53 PM
Crane inner cs are cool. Perhaps "bling" if you will. That's about all they'll get you.

CRaSHnBuRN
10-06-2006, 11:05 PM
As soon as I get the knuckles off and rotated and get the axle cleaned up and painted, I'll throw the 4.56's in there with the lock right.


Also, anyone ever busted an inner c? I figure if I've ever going to replace one, I might as well do it now, since I'm taking them off to rotate them. I'm not even sure what kind of force would allow for an inner c to bust, but a couple of the build-ups of 44's I've seen involved crane's inner c's. If it matters, this 44 will probably be built up quite a bit in the future, but I'm just starting off mild. Shafts, and ctms will be added soonish along down the line most likely.


I've never seen one broken, and really never heard of it happening. Knuckles, yes, but not the C's. Quite honestly, if you think you're gonna need that kinda beef, why not save the money and just get a D60?

JeepPhisherman
10-06-2006, 11:13 PM
I've never seen one broken, and really never heard of it happening. Knuckles, yes, but not the C's. Quite honestly, if you think you're gonna need that kinda beef, why not save the money and just get a D60?

Don't know that I need them, just asking opinions. I think I've heard of one or two guys busting their inners in all of the reading I've done about sas's, so I guess I'll pass on those. The crane outers are pretty f'ing pimp tho...

CRaSHnBuRN
10-06-2006, 11:39 PM
yeah, I'll agree they are nice, but like everything else they cost. Thats why I did the D60 this time. I figure if I was gonna keep dumping money into axle upgrades, I may as well start out with something beefy, so I wouldn't kick myself later for just polishing another turd. Now granted, the toy axles always worked well for me, but I'll be happy if I never have to tear another one of those greasy bastards apart again.

JeepPhisherman
10-07-2006, 10:38 AM
yeah, I'll agree they are nice, but like everything else they cost. Thats why I did the D60 this time. I figure if I was gonna keep dumping money into axle upgrades, I may as well start out with something beefy, so I wouldn't kick myself later for just polishing another turd. Now granted, the toy axles always worked well for me, but I'll be happy if I never have to tear another one of those greasy bastards apart again.


Well I couldnt justify the size or the initial cost of a 60... I ****ing hate Lou Corso, that stupid son of a *****, someone please kill him so he'll stop putting on mascot heads... so I just went with the 44. With minimal upgrades, it should be more than able to stand up to 35/37" rubber, especially since I'm light on the skinny pedal.

JeepPhisherman
10-07-2006, 12:16 PM
Also, I was looking at building some sliders, but Trail-Gear has some 78" tube sliders for sale for 199 shipped, so I'm thinking it might be cheaper just to buy these, since I have no experience bending tube and havent acquired a welder yet. Thoughts?

AggieTJ2007
10-07-2006, 12:44 PM
199 shipped isn't a bad deal, I would go that route, esp if you are short on time and tools

JeepPhisherman
10-09-2006, 04:21 PM
this project also involves me building up my tool collection so I can someday stop using everyone elses stuff...

so, today I stopped by sears and picked up this
http://photos-261.ak.facebook.com/ip002/v51/8/64/8317763/n8317763_34844261_4520.jpg

And I never got a pic of my bike up, so while I'm posting this, here she/he/it is
http://photos-262.ak.facebook.com/ip002/v51/8/64/8317763/n8317763_34844262_4882.jpg

KrazyKarl02
10-09-2006, 04:48 PM
How is the bike running?

JeepPhisherman
10-09-2006, 04:55 PM
How did I know you'd be asking about the bike?

It's running well, I still need to get it cleaned up and polished, and I still should probably mess with the valves a little bit to quiet it down, and ofcouse there's a lot I'd like to do to it, but it gets me to and from school everyday. I hardly drive my truck anymore, only when it's wet or I need to pick something up. I think I've put close to 700 miles on the bike since I've had it, so that's 700 miles I've saved from my truck, and parking is a helluva lot better.

Anyone have any experiences with these crafstman compressors? I kind of bought it on a whim, like the bike, but I read a couple of good reviews about it. The tank is big enough that it should handle any kind of work I want to do, short of sanding, and I'm not sure how long it would be able to support a drill.

Reckless
10-09-2006, 05:00 PM
I had one in high school and it was great, just watch out for dirt dobbers, they love craftsman for some reason?

RCcola55
10-09-2006, 07:27 PM
what is the cfm rating on that compressor

TxCruzr
10-09-2006, 07:42 PM
Also, I was looking at building some sliders, but Trail-Gear has some 78" tube sliders for sale for 199 shipped, so I'm thinking it might be cheaper just to buy these, since I have no experience bending tube and havent acquired a welder yet. Thoughts?

TrailMart is anti-toyota....they copy Marlins stuff and FabTechs and whoever else builds something cool and puts their name on it :rainbow:
I'd rather spend more than buy from there. Search on por and I bet you'll change your mind.

fbronco86
10-09-2006, 08:16 PM
How did I know you'd be asking about the bike?

It's running well, I still need to get it cleaned up and polished, and I still should probably mess with the valves a little bit to quiet it down, and ofcouse there's a lot I'd like to do to it, but it gets me to and from school everyday. I hardly drive my truck anymore, only when it's wet or I need to pick something up. I think I've put close to 700 miles on the bike since I've had it, so that's 700 miles I've saved from my truck, and parking is a helluva lot better.

Anyone have any experiences with these crafstman compressors? I kind of bought it on a whim, like the bike, but I read a couple of good reviews about it. The tank is big enough that it should handle any kind of work I want to do, short of sanding, and I'm not sure how long it would be able to support a drill.

I dont keep my bikes super clean. The chain drives kinda suck cause the rear tires get oiled pretty well if you oil your chain right.

The compressors I have the same one. Its great. I run the hell outta mine. Its just noisy. Thats the only thing I dont like. Keep the tank drained and it will be fine.

JeepPhisherman
10-09-2006, 08:16 PM
what is the cfm rating on that compressor


6.4 scfm @ 90 psi

deffinitely not the quietest, but I have an outlet right outside around the corner, so when I'm going to be using it for extended periods of time in the garage, I can just wheel it outside and be golden

already played around with it and broke free 2 bolts that an 18" breaker couldnt touch

JeepPhisherman
10-09-2006, 08:18 PM
TrailMart is anti-toyota....they copy Marlins stuff and FabTechs and whoever else builds something cool and puts their name on it :rainbow:
I'd rather spend more than buy from there. Search on por and I bet you'll change your mind.


yea I had seen some posts about them on TTORA, so I dont know. I did want to build my own sliders anyway, and feller said he might bring some tools up for a while, so we'll see.

Doug Krebs
10-09-2006, 09:07 PM
6.4 scfm @ 90 psi

deffinitely not the quietest, but I have an outlet right outside around the corner, so when I'm going to be using it for extended periods of time in the garage, I can just wheel it outside and be golden

already played around with it and broke free 2 bolts that an 18" breaker couldnt touch

scfm means caca! Why didn't you go for an oil less compressor?

JeepPhisherman
10-09-2006, 09:39 PM
scfm means caca! Why didn't you go for an oil less compressor?


whats the difference?

it is oil-free

edit
Just looked up scfm vs cfm, so scfm is just at a standard temp/pressure? all teh units i looked at were measured in scfm, so, is there a conversion or something? not that i really care, as long at it can run the tools i want to run

Doug Krebs
10-09-2006, 09:49 PM
whats the difference?

it is oil-free

hmm, apparently I read wrong in another forum according to this website. I read a couple weeks ago scfm was static cfm. Glad I looked it up again. I also googled it and said the same thing.

http://www.truetex.com/aircompressors.htm


Sorry I meant why didn't you look at cast iron, oil lubricated compressors. I'd return that one and get a cast iron one unless you got a good deal. I can actually carry on a conversation with mine running. They also last longer and are rebuildable.

KrazyKarl02
10-09-2006, 09:54 PM
It is not the oil-less feature that makes that thing loud. It is the direct drive. In general, the cast iron, lubricated, belt drive are the longest lasting compressors. That being said for normal every day use what you bought will work just fine.

The oil-less has a diaphram in it that can wear out faster than a cast iron cylinder/piston combo. As for breaking bolts loose, get a good impact gun, mine sucks, I need one with some balls. Even with my 19 CFM @ 90psi super compressor, if you have a crap impact it sucks!

StevenAg03
10-09-2006, 09:58 PM
you can use it to convert to cfm i think...

robertf03
10-09-2006, 10:48 PM
looks similar to my air compressor before I started the "upgrades"

It'll only get louder then stop building pressure over 60psi

Its no good for anything more than impact and sockets.

Paint gun and sander are way out of the question

fbronco86
10-09-2006, 11:06 PM
scfm means caca! Why didn't you go for an oil less compressor?

scfm means standard cublic feet per min

cfm is cubic feet per min

same ****

go back to your chem class Standard temp and pressure bull**** same ****.

you are wrong about the oil less compressor part too. Your compressor has valves this compressor has a diafram valve thats what makes the noise. Both can be oiless.

fbronco86
10-09-2006, 11:09 PM
looks similar to my air compressor before I started the "upgrades"

It'll only get louder then stop building pressure over 60psi

Its no good for anything more than impact and sockets.

Paint gun and sander are way out of the question

Mine will run a right angle sander just fine. Same compressor

Doug Krebs
10-09-2006, 11:25 PM
scfm means standard cublic feet per min

cfm is cubic feet per min

same ****

go back to your chem class Standard temp and pressure bull**** same ****.

you are wrong about the oil less compressor part too. Your compressor has valves this compressor has a diafram valve thats what makes the noise. Both can be oiless.

Yes, I said I was wrong about the scfm and posted a website about it.

I was just generalizing oiless compressors to be noisy, I wasn't getting anal about it.

All I was saying is if he didn't get a good deal on it, to think about returning it and getting a cast iron, belt driven compressor. On the sears site, it seems like the compressor he got was $298. I'd much rather have this one for another $80 (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Compressors+%26+Air+Tools&pid=00919541000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Air+Compressors+%26+Inflators&BV_SessionID=@@@@0697846374.1160455305@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccedaddimlihhlmcefecemldffidflk.0)

Home depot has an upright similar to that one for the same price.

Hell for $430 this one seems pretty damn good.

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@0807830358.1160455611@ @@@&BV_EngineID=cccdaddjdglgdhicgelceffdfgidgmk.0&CNTTYPE=PROD_META&CNTKEY=misc/searchResults.jsp&MID=9876&N=2984+3966&pos=n24

CRaSHnBuRN
10-09-2006, 11:45 PM
TrailMart is anti-toyota....they copy Marlins stuff and FabTechs and whoever else builds something cool and puts their name on it :rainbow:
I'd rather spend more than buy from there. Search on por and I bet you'll change your mind.

**** Trailcrap. All it is that ***** Chris Gieger jumping ship from one toyota vendor to another, stealing thier ideas and claiming they're his before moving on. Now he's taken it to trailgear, who business practices and customer service are so bad that it makes all-pro seem like model citizens. And the only reason TG can sell so cheap is because alot of thier crap is made in china.

fbronco86
10-10-2006, 07:34 AM
Yes, I said I was wrong about the scfm and posted a website about it.

I was just generalizing oiless compressors to be noisy, I wasn't getting anal about it.

All I was saying is if he didn't get a good deal on it, to think about returning it and getting a cast iron, belt driven compressor. On the sears site, it seems like the compressor he got was $298. I'd much rather have this one for another $80 (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Compressors+%26+Air+Tools&pid=00919541000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Air+Compressors+%26+Inflators&BV_SessionID=@@@@0697846374.1160455305@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccedaddimlihhlmcefecemldffidflk.0)

Home depot has an upright similar to that one for the same price.

Hell for $430 this one seems pretty damn good.

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@0807830358.1160455611@ @@@&BV_EngineID=cccdaddjdglgdhicgelceffdfgidgmk.0&CNTTYPE=PROD_META&CNTKEY=misc/searchResults.jsp&MID=9876&N=2984+3966&pos=n24

I just felt like giving you crap anyway

JeepPhisherman
10-10-2006, 10:01 AM
Yes, I said I was wrong about the scfm and posted a website about it.

I was just generalizing oiless compressors to be noisy, I wasn't getting anal about it.

All I was saying is if he didn't get a good deal on it, to think about returning it and getting a cast iron, belt driven compressor. On the sears site, it seems like the compressor he got was $298. I'd much rather have this one for another $80 (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Compressors+%26+Air+Tools&pid=00919541000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Air+Compressors+%26+Inflators&BV_SessionID=@@@@0697846374.1160455305@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccedaddimlihhlmcefecemldffidflk.0)

Home depot has an upright similar to that one for the same price.

Hell for $430 this one seems pretty damn good.

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@0807830358.1160455611@ @@@&BV_EngineID=cccdaddjdglgdhicgelceffdfgidgmk.0&CNTTYPE=PROD_META&CNTKEY=misc/searchResults.jsp&MID=9876&N=2984+3966&pos=n24



It was 270 at the tool sale, I thought it was a good deal, and $100 more was deffinitely out of the questions, I probably shouldn't have even bought this.

I'm sure it'll work out fine. If they're that ****ty, should I go back and buy the 3 year warranty?

JeepPhisherman
10-18-2006, 05:03 PM
Went and picked up my tires today from Sharpe's and Garrett's old roomate out in Snook. Everything looks good and the tires are still practically brand new, just tore the rest of the sticker off before I loaded them up. Wheels are also brand new, so I'll probably unload those on ebay to offset some of the cost.

http://photos-324.ak.facebook.com/ip002/v50/8/64/8317763/n8317763_34998324_2492.jpg
Next question is, should I pay to have them cert. from Dicsount Tire? I think it would cost like 170ish and the guys I talked to said there shouldnt be problem certifying them. On the other hand, I could almost buy another tire new for that price.

What's the deal with certs anyway? I just have an accident with one of the tires at a time when they're getting close to dead and get a new one?

AggieTJ2007
10-18-2006, 11:12 PM
yep, but I like to keep my accidents real, just look for those sharp rocks off-road

fbronco86
10-19-2006, 06:50 AM
What size are those rims? Are they real beadlocks?

JeepPhisherman
10-19-2006, 08:45 AM
What size are those rims? Are they real beadlocks?

No, street-locks. 15x8, 5 on 4.5

fbronco86
10-19-2006, 09:22 AM
No, street-locks. 15x8, 5 on 4.5

ahh ok not the right size anyway

Thanks

colman
10-19-2006, 09:57 AM
the guy said they came off of a scout right so shouldnt' they be 5x5.5

stx4wheeler
10-19-2006, 10:57 AM
yes 5x 5.5

BMFScout
10-19-2006, 11:52 AM
if they are 5x5.5 and you want to sell real cheap let me know. The scout would look cool with some beadlooks and I would rather have an 8" rim.

JeepPhisherman
10-19-2006, 01:21 PM
yep, my bad

colman
10-19-2006, 03:58 PM
so was my counter offer accepted in the pm?

JeepPhisherman
10-19-2006, 09:36 PM
so was my counter offer accepted in the pm?


we'll see. do you need them soon?


If someone would answer my question about the certs, I'll get them off the rims if I get them certified.

colman
10-20-2006, 01:09 PM
no, by christmas is fine, and i love the piece of mind for the certs nd if you are shdy you can punch a whole in the sidewall and get new ones

DRAGOONRANCH
10-20-2006, 01:22 PM
no, by christmas is fine, and i love the piece of mind for the certs nd if you are shdy you can punch a whole in the sidewall and get new ones

If ya ever need to know how to total a tire, just ask Scott. :gigem:

JeepPhisherman
04-10-2007, 10:13 AM
Thought I would update this, even though I haven't made any real progress. Hope to get the front axle built and ready to throw in before the move to Austin around the middle of May.

Went from this

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/189/454171815_d712c3be25.jpg?v=0

Took away this

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/185/454171805_df711ab5cb.jpg?v=0

Added some of this

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/197/454171809_ebc959afc3.jpg?v=0

And came up with this

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/248/454171801_dbca160794.jpg?v=0

Used a LED light from vatozone to mount the liscense plate on my rear gate

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/182/453255619_db5dbb634f.jpg?v=0

Still looking for some clevis mounts long enough to go all the way through, and I need to add some chain hoops for the hitch before TCC. I also need to lower the bumper about .25" to give the tailgate some more clearance when opening - I test fit 3 times before I fully welded, but it still came out wrong. Also when I lower the mounts some, I'm going to add one more frame mount on the bottom side in addition to the current 3 mounts on each side, as well as plating the frame on the "axle humps" where some guys have busted the frame in the past. Going to have copperhead fab cnc the plates with soem gofast holes to reduce the weight since I'll probably be using .25" plate.

So Ryan, want to come set up my gears for me so I can get the front axle put together. It's been sitting in my garage torn apart for the better part of 8 months. I was thinking about switching over to 4.88 gears for the 35's, but I think I'm going to go dual cases, so 4.56 will be better for the street. And I don't want to mess with PORC anymore about exchanging the gears.

TxCruzr
04-10-2007, 10:21 AM
That looks really good, nice work :cool:

JeepPhisherman
04-10-2007, 10:32 AM
Any idea on how to fill up the original mounting bolt holes for when I elongate them? Like I said, **** didn't come out quite right, as you can see that the cut lines and bumper don't line up quite right, so I'm going to raise the front mounting holes a little more than the rear, so I'll have .25" of hole that I don't need. I was thinking about just filling it up with weld and then grinding it smooth, then maybe welding a washer around the new hole to make sure it's supported. Or, do I not need to worry about that, and just egg out the holes some and leave it be?

JeepPhisherman
04-10-2007, 10:34 AM
Maybe the best option would be just to fill up the holes completely and then redrill them? I was hoping to kind of avoid that because drilling the holes with a hand drill through .25" plate was a pain in the ass in the first place. Anyone have a drill press so could do it that way?

TMatheaus
04-10-2007, 04:08 PM
just leave the holes elongated for adjustment later on if need be

Gearhead61
04-10-2007, 04:51 PM
I really like that rear bumper!

And I know it's a little late, but I have that same compressor. I've run both a DA sander and a paint gun off of it and it held up like a champ. Only issue is that it pulls more current than my garage is wired for, so it likes to flip the circuit breaker. Once I get the garage wired up I'll be golden.

agjohn02
04-10-2007, 05:29 PM
i like it. did you cut some sheetmetal or is that stuff on the quarters plastic?

JeepPhisherman
04-10-2007, 05:40 PM
i like it. did you cut some sheetmetal or is that stuff on the quarters plastic?

It's all sheetmetal. The first cut was kind of painful...

If I keep the truck, I'll be tubing the rear when it becomes a dedicated trail rig, so this is just temporary, more or less.

agjohn02
04-10-2007, 06:10 PM
are those rear shackles like that from the factory?

CRaSHnBuRN
04-10-2007, 06:13 PM
you can get the longer D ring mounts from rockstomper.com

DRAGOONRANCH
04-10-2007, 06:39 PM
If this bumper is going to see any trial time, take the time to reweld and redrill the holes correctly. A good drop off of a ledge and they will move if not torqued down 100%. If the truck is just gonna get ya to the trail, then fawk it.

JeepPhisherman
04-10-2007, 08:20 PM
are those rear shackles like that from the factory?

My springs are old and tired.

JeepPhisherman
04-10-2007, 08:23 PM
If this bumper is going to see any trial time, take the time to reweld and redrill the holes correctly. A good drop off of a ledge and they will move if not torqued down 100%. If the truck is just gonna get ya to the trail, then fawk it.


It'll see trail time for sure once I get it slung with a sfa. Dropping on it is why I mentioned welding the washers around the holes to reinforce the area a little bit. But I'm not too worried about it, once I add the other mounting hole, it will be secured on the bottom of the frame as well, so if it budges, it's taking the frame with it, hence the frame plating. :gigem:

DRAGOONRANCH
04-11-2007, 04:19 AM
Sounds like you put some thought into it. It should work just fine then.


Just remember, measure twice, cut once. :flipoff3:

TMatheaus
04-11-2007, 04:27 PM
are you gonna be runnin those street tires at tcc

JeepPhisherman
04-11-2007, 04:49 PM
I'm trying to find something else to throw on there without spending a lot of cash. You got some 31's laying around?

I've got some 32" skinny swampers, but no wheels to put them on.

TMatheaus
04-11-2007, 05:45 PM
cook has those 31's

coop used to have a set of stock steel yota wheels

edit, i didn't read the other thread before i posted this

sasquatch
04-11-2007, 06:08 PM
those got sold

JeepPhisherman
04-11-2007, 08:05 PM
Davido hooked me up.

JeepPhisherman
04-12-2007, 01:55 PM
you can get the longer D ring mounts from rockstomper.com


Not long enough, already been there. Everyone makes them for 2" material, I need them for 3" material. Going to have copperhead make them most likely.

CRaSHnBuRN
04-12-2007, 02:16 PM
let us know why kinda of deal he gives you. I could use a few as well

JeepPhisherman
04-12-2007, 04:44 PM
let us know why kinda of deal he gives you. I could use a few as well

I talked to him about prices on cutting some frame plates for me, and they were pretty high so who knows what the price on these things will be. I don't even know if he can do it since I'm looking for 3/4-1" thick.

JeepPhisherman
04-12-2007, 08:18 PM
let us know why kinda of deal he gives you. I could use a few as well

$30 for two made of 1/2". Biggest they can go is 5/8".
What's the price like on 3"x1/2" flat bar? I might just go at it with a grinder and a drill press.

AggieTJ2007
04-12-2007, 09:18 PM
why not go 1 inch if you are going to make them

JeepPhisherman
04-12-2007, 10:03 PM
why not go 1 inch if you are going to make them

It would take twice the time and twice the grinding disks/stones.

If I had a mill they'd be done already.

CRaSHnBuRN
04-12-2007, 11:05 PM
screw that, I'll make my own

agjohn02
04-13-2007, 12:46 AM
i made mine

CRaSHnBuRN
04-13-2007, 01:25 AM
yeah its not a big deal to make them, but copperhead seems to be so cheap I figured maybe it would be easier buying them, but not for that price

sasquatch
04-13-2007, 10:44 AM
why don't you cut it out with a torch. i did mine in a hurry and they don't look bad.

JeepPhisherman
04-13-2007, 10:46 AM
why don't you cut it out with a torch. i did mine in a hurry and they don't look bad.

Probably because I don't have a torch.

edit: But if you've got one and are willing to help out for a couple beers, problem solved! I'm going to pick up some 3/4"x3" flat at Mack this afternoon.

sasquatch
04-13-2007, 10:48 AM
i don't either

DRAGOONRANCH
04-14-2007, 02:04 AM
Probably because I don't have a torch.

edit: But if you've got one and are willing to help out for a couple beers, problem solved! I'm going to pick up some 3/4"x3" flat at Mack this afternoon.

I will get up w/ ya when I get home if you want.

JeepPhisherman
04-14-2007, 07:04 AM
I will get up w/ ya when I get home if you want.

I'd appreciate that ed, I really need the use of a drill press though, or a mill.

Picked up 2 5.5" pieces of 3-1/4"x1" flat stock for $2 from mack
:gigem:

DRAGOONRANCH
04-14-2007, 08:15 AM
This might be a good reason to get granddad's drill press up and runnin again.

JeepPhisherman
09-09-2007, 03:52 PM
Sold the truck on Saturday to a buddy on another forum.

Picked this up today...

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1316/1352377286_9bfc96b0fb.jpg

william_ace
09-09-2007, 06:41 PM
you sold the toyota? what you gonna get for a rig?

JeepPhisherman
09-09-2007, 09:29 PM
I'll buy something when I have time for wheeling again. Most likely in a few years, hopefully sooner. I'm always on the lookout for a good deal.

AggieTJ2007
09-09-2007, 09:58 PM
what the hell is that it is ugly as piss

jerryg79
09-09-2007, 10:14 PM
what the hell is that it is ugly as piss

looks like a honda accord to me.

AggieTJ2007
09-09-2007, 10:50 PM
have fun with that, I perfer a vehicle that will at least run over curbs

JeepPhisherman
09-10-2007, 08:11 AM
It was nice to be able to run 90 the whole way back from CS and feel like I was going 40 in my truck.

FJAggie07
09-10-2007, 09:52 AM
What happened to the dream of a Tundra Garrett?

to each his own, good luck my friend. Good quality car, hope you don't miss your truck too much.

EDIT: I be no good at punctuation.

CRaSHnBuRN
09-10-2007, 10:30 AM
have fun with that, I perfer a vehicle that will at least run over curbs

no ****, if I was driving a car down here I would have destroyed it by now.

JeepPhisherman
09-10-2007, 06:03 PM
no ****, if I was driving a car down here I would have destroyed it by now.

Unlike most Texans, I possess driving skill.

jerryg79
09-10-2007, 06:05 PM
Unlike most Texans, I possess driving skill.

having driven along the entire the entire eastern sea board, including the ****ty state from which you hale, i would say that ****ty drivers exist everywhere.

CRaSHnBuRN
09-10-2007, 06:06 PM
Unlike most Texans, I possess driving skill.

bring that driving skill down here to south Houston. The potholes here would swallow that car. You know they're big when even the dump trucks are swerving all over the road trying to avoid them

Sharpe
09-10-2007, 06:18 PM
Unlike most Texans, I possess driving skill.
Like most NATIVE Texans, I dont. Therefor I drive the biggest ****ing pile of **** possible in hopes of annhilating a small imported (preferably Toyota) car driven by a yankee and at the same time somehow totaling said pile of **** for its insurance money since its "blue book value" is 1.5 times what it would actually sell for.

JeepPhisherman
09-10-2007, 06:34 PM
having driven along the entire the entire eastern sea board, including the ****ty state from which you hale, i would say that ****ty drivers exist everywhere.

I don't disagree. What was the point of your post again?

agjohn02
09-10-2007, 06:36 PM
he was just reminding everyone that you are not a real Texan, nor will you ever be. therefore your rightful place is on the sole of doug k's shoe.

jerryg79
09-10-2007, 06:37 PM
he was just reminding everyone that you are not a real Texan, nor will you ever be. therefore your rightful place is on the sole of doug's shoe.

actually i was just baiting him with an openly ******* post, much like he was doing.

Reckless
09-10-2007, 06:40 PM
He thinks he can drive because he watches NASACR, on the other hand I watch Demolition Derbys and CORR racing.

JeepPhisherman
09-10-2007, 06:40 PM
bring that driving skill down here to south Houston. The potholes here would swallow that car. You know they're big when even the dump trucks are swerving all over the road trying to avoid them


I didn't move to Houston for several reasons, overall ****tiness of the city was one of them.

JeepPhisherman
09-10-2007, 06:42 PM
he was just reminding everyone that you are not a real Texan, nor will you ever be. therefore your rightful place is on the sole of doug k's shoe.

Am I acting like that chode that showed up to the tailgate? If so, I appologize, I've been huffing paint all afternoon trying to correct mistakes that my 3rd gen. super is too lazy to fix.

And I have no desire to be a Texan, it's a nice state, but no reason to spend your whole life here.

HULK-1
09-10-2007, 08:25 PM
The state of Texas ****ing rules!

FJAggie07
09-10-2007, 08:27 PM
The state of Texas ****ing rules!

x2


Definitely couldn't have said that better....

agjohn02
09-10-2007, 10:41 PM
did i get moderated in here? what for? it wasnt anything off color. was it?

Sharpe
09-10-2007, 11:06 PM
Refer to kitchen for questions of moderation please.

JeepPhisherman
09-16-2007, 10:09 PM
"Oh what a feeling!"
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1170/1394055687_ed2c414125.jpg?v=0


Dropped the rental off Saturday morning before the game, then headed over to Atkinson to pick up the new truck, fresh from San Antonio via Gulf States Toyota with all of 6 miles on it. Spent about an hour getting everything signed, then headed to Sams club to pick up beer for the tailgate.

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1181/1394052669_f03ddd847a.jpg?v=0

Early impressions - the truck is ****ing awesome. Sized similar to a F250, but doesn't ride like complete **** like the 07 Superdutys do. Plenty of power, nice interior, lots of storage for all of my ****, only downside is I'll miss the gas mileage of that Accord.

Now, I just need to find a trailer and a trail truck and I'll be set.

I hope you guys didn't really think that I had bought a Honda.

william_ace
09-16-2007, 10:14 PM
i wouldnt put it past you to drive an accord. you got the 5.7 yes?

Reckless
09-16-2007, 10:43 PM
You are an Idiot. Jimmy looked cool when he did it but you on the other hand....

FJAggie07
09-17-2007, 07:05 AM
i wouldnt put it past you to drive an accord. you got the 5.7 yes?

obviously from the 5.7 nameplate up front... :gigem:

CheapJeep
09-17-2007, 07:16 AM
Nice ride!!!

JeepPhisherman
09-17-2007, 08:26 AM
You are an Idiot. Jimmy looked cool when he did it but you on the other hand....

Thanks Rowdy, I highly value your opinion.

william_ace
09-17-2007, 11:01 AM
obviously from the 5.7 nameplate up front... :gigem:

yeah stupid me for not doing research on what the 5.7 name plate looks like, i left my magnifying glass in my other pants. haha your ladys truck has the 5.7 too right? i hear these trucks will give a 2nd gen ford lightning a run for their money

BMFScout
09-17-2007, 11:05 AM
i hear these trucks will give a 2nd gen ford lightning a run for their money


I heard ricer's exaggerate everything.

Sharpe
09-17-2007, 11:06 AM
I heard ricer's exaggerate everything.
:laughing: Hey wait a minute, since you drive a toyodee aren't you "one of them"? :flipoff2:

JeepPhisherman
09-17-2007, 11:16 AM
yeah stupid me for not doing research on what the 5.7 name plate looks like, i left my magnifying glass in my other pants. haha your ladys truck has the 5.7 too right? i hear these trucks will give a 2nd gen ford lightning a run for their money

I haven't stomped on it yet, I'm too much of a puss. Hell, I haven't even had the thing over 2500 rpm yet.

My gf's dad thought he was being funny when he snuck an old Folgers can in the bed of my truck yesterday so I can be like the rest of "those slanties".

JeepPhisherman
09-17-2007, 11:18 AM
I heard ricer's exaggerate everything.


There's supposed to be some videos on youtube of a lightning racing a 5.7.

agjohn02
09-17-2007, 11:59 AM
2nd gen lightning? what were they 300 hp? woohoo!

FJAggie07
09-17-2007, 12:45 PM
yeah stupid me for not doing research on what the 5.7 name plate looks like, i left my magnifying glass in my other pants. haha your ladys truck has the 5.7 too right? i hear these trucks will give a 2nd gen ford lightning a run for their money

Si.

FJAggie07
09-17-2007, 12:46 PM
I haven't stomped on it yet, I'm too much of a puss. Hell, I haven't even had the thing over 2500 rpm yet.



pooooooo-nannny. :flipoff2:

jerryg79
09-17-2007, 12:47 PM
pooooooo-nannny. :flipoff2:

fo' real i may not find out how quick my personal truck is with in the first week. But I can assure you that i would know how fast the one i test drove was. :gigem:

JeepPhisherman
09-17-2007, 01:06 PM
I haven't tried to set any quarter mile times yet, but I did hit 105 on that first section of 21 after exiting off of 47 on my way home from Aggieland yesterday.

When I test drove it, I wasn't as big of a puss, but I haven't test driven one since May.

agjohn02
09-17-2007, 01:43 PM
so, is this one getting an SAS now?

FJAggie07
09-17-2007, 01:53 PM
so, is this one getting an SAS now?

:laughing: :laughing:

Sharpe
09-17-2007, 02:28 PM
I haven't tried to set any quarter mile times yet, but I did hit 105 on that first section of 21 after exiting off of 47 on my way home from Aggieland yesterday.

When I test drove it, I wasn't as big of a puss, but I haven't test driven one since May.
Meh, me and Ryan hit 130 on 47 on the way to the cleanup yesterday :flipoff2:

agjohn02
09-17-2007, 02:36 PM
:laughing: :laughing:


who are you laughing at? from what i hear, you'll be tubing out the whole front end of the fjc soon.

FJAggie07
09-17-2007, 03:36 PM
who are you laughing at? from what i hear, you'll be tubing out the whole front end of the fjc soon.

meh...

JeepPhisherman
09-17-2007, 09:51 PM
so, is this one getting an SAS now?

No. This will be the hauler. I'm looking at a few older toys now. I'd have to cash out some investments if I wanted to buy though, so I'm not sure I do just yet.

william_ace
09-17-2007, 11:26 PM
you had a whole plan for the tacoma, but i guess it was just worth to much huh

JeepPhisherman
09-18-2007, 08:11 AM
I just needed something larger than an extra cab for day to day stuff. Rather than drop the extra estimated $2K in addition to the parts I already had to finish the Tacoma, I decided to sell it while it was still worth something (actually sold for $1500 less than I paid for it 4 years ago) and invest that money in the new truck. Now I can find a trailer and a beater for about what I had in parts for the swap on the Tacoma.