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View Full Version : Hi Steer arm caps?


stx4wheeler
03-20-2006, 11:13 PM
what are you all doing for your upper kingpin cap, once you have put hi-steer on? are you all just cutting the dome out of the old cap and welding it into the histeer arm, or are you putting something insde the cap, and hi steer arm to make up for the added thickness?
bburris
03-20-2006, 11:24 PM
Did you buy arms that don't have a closed top or something?
stx4wheeler
03-21-2006, 12:03 AM
yeah the arm i bought doesnt have a closed top.
Doug Krebs
03-21-2006, 12:47 AM
the arm I made I cut the cap decently precise and then welded it. Who did you buy your arms from?
stx4wheeler
03-21-2006, 01:36 AM
ebay-not sure on the company it is stamped in the arm or on a reciept i guess. i guess i ll cut the cap and measure and weld then.
chevsu
03-21-2006, 06:59 AM
in the chevsu i used a the stock cap and then added a spacer to make up for the difference. on the jeep i welded a new cap to the arm for the right height
stx4wheeler
03-21-2006, 01:45 PM
alrighty, also since i heard it is bad to use bolts to secure your histeer arm, is everyone running studs and nuts like these?

http://www.wfoconcepts.com/Steering/Dana60/KingpinHardware.html

these look alright?
Doug Krebs
03-21-2006, 02:50 PM
I think i got them cheaper through dedenbear. They have the arp ones also which are stronger. I'll look for my receipt tonight if i think about it.
stx4wheeler
03-21-2006, 03:53 PM
please do doug cause i need these asap.
Doug Krebs
03-21-2006, 04:29 PM
or you could just call up dedenbear and not be a lazy ass!
eight
03-21-2006, 05:25 PM
I think I'm just gonna go to one of our local fastener suppliers and get them. NAPA may even have them. You live near a town with 2 fastener stores, take advantage of them.
Doug Krebs
03-21-2006, 05:52 PM
I'm pretty sure you can't buy them locally through a fastener store. They aren't a typical stud. B7 all thread is the closest that I could find them in and I didn't want to use this. Don't go into ace and ask for them, they'll laugh you out of the store. I'm pretty sure Mack would look at you the same way.

The only options I found were:

Dealer............more expensive then the stronger ARP studs
ARP studs...
Grade 8 bolts...didn't want to use bolts
B7 all thread....weaker than grade 8
eight
03-21-2006, 07:01 PM
I just called napa. They've got 3" long studs, 1/2", fine on long end, coarse on short end, in stock. Don't try to make this harder than it is.
agjohn02
03-21-2006, 07:02 PM
I just called napa. They've got 3" long studs, 1/2", fine on long end, coarse on short end, in stock. Don't try to make this harder than it is.

see if they have conical washers too. then you can do it correctly.
Doug Krebs
03-21-2006, 07:15 PM
I just called napa. They've got 3" long studs, 1/2", fine on long end, coarse on short end, in stock. Don't try to make this harder than it is.

What grade or rating are they? The stock one's are 1/2" x 20 on both ends.
Doug Krebs
03-21-2006, 07:17 PM
see if they have conical washers too. then you can do it correctly.

conical washers? I think you're think of dana 44's. Dana 60's use tapered lug nuts.
eight
03-21-2006, 07:30 PM
Well how bout that, them sum*****es are fine thread.
agjohn02
03-21-2006, 08:12 PM
ah, yes, i forget kopecki has a 60 now. i just thought he was wanting to put lug nuts off the dodge on a 44. can you blame me for thinking kopecki would do such a thing?
stx4wheeler
03-21-2006, 09:02 PM
doug the only thing i was waiting on you for was a price, i dont have time to call them till tomorrow afternoon, its not that i was being lazy.
Doug Krebs
03-21-2006, 09:19 PM
I found every receipt but the one for the studs. They were between 7-8 if I remember correctly maybe a tad cheaper. I also got the nuts from him just because it saved me a trip to the store and he was shipping anyways.

I remember the total order was like $81. That included 8 studs, 8 nuts, and 2 kingpin springs that were 5 each. That included shipping.

Remember these were the ARP studs which are stronger than the stock ones and right at the same price.
davido
03-21-2006, 11:45 PM
I know I've heard that it's bad, but what is the downfall of using bolts?

On the spacer, I used stacks of washers that were the same size (inner hole and outer diameter) of the plastic bushing. Make sure your stack is tall enough though. I think mine was a little loose before. Now that I've added a few more to complete the stacks on each side, it's tightened up some. If you have the cap upside down, they should stack evenly with the bottom. The grease holds them all together so they're pretty easy to put in.

I think this has been covered already, but to clarify... Stock studs will not come close to being long enough.
Doug Krebs
03-21-2006, 11:59 PM
I know I've heard that it's bad, but what is the downfall of using bolts?

On the spacer, I used stacks of washers that were the same size (inner hole and outer diameter) of the plastic bushing. Make sure your stack is tall enough though. I think mine was a little loose before. Now that I've added a few more to complete the stacks on each side, it's tightened up some. If you have the cap upside down, they should stack evenly with the bottom. The grease holds them all together so they're pretty easy to put in.

I think this has been covered already, but to clarify... Stock studs will not come close to being long enough.

You have a lift block below your arm, thats why studs don't work.
Sharpe
03-22-2006, 12:04 AM
Bullchit I'm using the stock studs with my off road design arm.


I know I've heard that it's bad, but what is the downfall of using bolts?

On the spacer, I used stacks of washers that were the same size (inner hole and outer diameter) of the plastic bushing. Make sure your stack is tall enough though. I think mine was a little loose before. Now that I've added a few more to complete the stacks on each side, it's tightened up some. If you have the cap upside down, they should stack evenly with the bottom. The grease holds them all together so they're pretty easy to put in.

I think this has been covered already, but to clarify... Stock studs will not come close to being long enough.
davido
03-22-2006, 12:19 AM
Hmm. Yeah, that would do it. :D I totally forgot about that. Thanks Cody.

It's hard to remember what it was like stock. I still can't picture how it could work with just the 1" arms and stock studs. Did they build in enough length for them? There's nothing between the cap and the knuckle on a stock application right? Oh well. I quit. :)

The washers do work though Kevin. :D I think I bought them at TSC for next to nothing.
Doug Krebs
03-22-2006, 12:32 AM
A stock axle on the non steering arm side has the thin sheetmetal cap and grade 8 bolts. This includes dodge and chevy axles on the passenger side. For fords it's like this on both sides as the drag link connects directly to the tie rod.

On chevy and dodge there is a steering arm on the driver side that is fairly close to 1"
stx4wheeler
03-22-2006, 12:34 AM
thanks dave i think ill do the washers first for tcc heaven forbid i makes it there, since this would be easier than cutting and welding the cap into the arm in the right spot. then do the other later.
stx4wheeler
03-22-2006, 04:50 PM
dedenbear studs ordered, was 29.99 shipped. i didnt get the nuts, the guy was like it will be like 5 bucks cheaper if you jsut go buy them yourself so i opted for that route since i need to go to tsc anyway.
Doug Krebs
03-22-2006, 05:08 PM
weird, he barely charged me anything for them
davido
03-23-2006, 02:10 AM
A stock axle on the non steering arm side has the thin sheetmetal cap and grade 8 bolts. This includes dodge and chevy axles on the passenger side. For fords it's like this on both sides as the drag link connects directly to the tie rod.

On chevy and dodge there is a steering arm on the driver side that is fairly close to 1"


Right again. I love you Doug. You're the smartest man ever. I bet you have a huge weinder also. :laughing:

;)