Lincoln SP-175Plus

[JeepPhisherman]

Good welder?
Don't know too much about welding and I'm looking to learn. Don't know that I necessarily need my own, but it'd be nice to have while doing the sas and other accompanying projects. Found one for sale pretty decently priced that I might pick up but don't know if I should splurge for something better
It runs on 208/230 so that kind of threw me, guess it can run on a 240 outlet though?

Or, anyone have a welder for sale?

[BMFScout]

That is the welder we borrowed from Flem for the past year or so. I think it's a great welder, it's what I welded my cage up with. I think he had some issues with regulators or something. Ask Flem what he thinks.

[Sharpe]

I like Miller's. I looked at a few lincolns before I decided on my millermatic 210. I just liked it mo betta.

[agjohn02]

i hear if you order a hobart from tractor supply. it will most likey be drop shipped directly from the miller factory.

[Sharpe]

i hear if you order a hobart from tractor supply. it will most likey be drop shipped directly from the miller factory.
Yup and they'll even replace some of the shiney metal parts inside with plastic **** so you dont have to lug around so much weight.

[agjohn02]

Yup and they'll even replace some of the shiney metal parts inside with plastic **** so you dont have to lug around so much weight.


see hobarts are cheaper than millers AND better. i did not know that....

[agjohn02]

It runs on 208/230 so that kind of threw me, guess it can run on a 240 outlet though?




same thing

[Chadnutz]

Make sure that 208/230 is not three phase.

[uglyota]

see hobarts are cheaper than millers AND better. i did not know that....
and totally interchangeable, so when your nylon gears wear out you can replace them with metal ones from miller

[JeepPhisherman]

Make sure that 208/230 is not three phase.

It's single phase

SP-175 Plus (http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Catalog/equipmentdatasheet.asp?p=7083)

So, this is good or look for a hobart so I can wait for it to break and make it a miller?

[eight]

That one's good. Lincolns cost more than millers.

There's nothing wrong with hobarts, at least for the home user. I like how we have experts with experience using and working on them.

[JeepPhisherman]

Just talked to the guy. It's about 4 years old, says he hasnt touched it in 2 years, he used to make bbq grills with it. Don't know what to look for when checking it out, he told me everything worked well when he last used it, he just "dont need it no more".

He's selling for $500, the things run new about 1K. Do they hold their value if I decided I wanted to get rid of it, or should I jump on this one. He told me he'd bring it to Dallas this weekend if I wanted it instead of me driving out to Tyler/Lindale to pick it up. Also said he'd throw in a co2 tank, but its a coke tank so I dont know if anyone will fill it.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I have heard people swear to a miller, some to lincolns. Most folks who buy a hobart either buy them for the price or convenience (TSC being open on sunday). They are all good machines, but if you plan on running a production line, then the machine you have will not make it. You will need something a little heavier, but I figure you will use it like I do mine for minor repairs, and small fab ups here and there. It will serve you well, and if you think you are getting a good deal on it then jump on it. I have heard debates on millers and lincolns get more heated than a bar full of nascar fans on race day, so go on with yo bad self. :beer:

[eight]

If you can plug it in somewhere try it out. Hopefully he has some gas in the bottle, if not you can still see if it works without. Check if the wire is rusty before using it though. If its rusty you just have to remove the first layer or so and it'll be good.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Check the tip out, it is kind of like checking to see what radio station the guys listens to. If it is clogged up and burnt to ****, then I would be wary. Check the condition of the plug and the gauges, those are good indicators of how someone cares for their tools.

[JeepPhisherman]

Probably wont have anywhere to plug it in. Only 240 is in the laundry room and those things are wedged in there tighter than robbies ass when he's around krebs.

I guess I'll just check it out and try to talk him down. I have no idea what it's worth other than new they cost the $1K.

[CheapJeep]

I got my Miller 175 from one of my dad's good friend's over a year ago and it's worked great, paid about $375 for it. It's well over 5 yr's. old or so and has been rebuilt several times but it still welds good, there's nothing wrong with buying a used one, just check it out.

[CheapJeep]

those things are wedged in there tighter than robbies ass when he's around krebs.

:laughing: :flipoff2:

[BMFScout]

check the cigarette lighter, if it has ash on it, it's been smoked in...right Karl? :)

[uglyota]

how many cupholders does it have?

[jerryg79]

$580 "*NEW*" on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/LINCOLN-SP-135-Plus-K1874-2-NEW_W0QQitemZ7615800385QQcategoryZ113743QQssPageNa meZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

maybe there is something in the fine print im not seeing

nevermind thats a 135 im dumb

$765 for the 175 "*NEW*"

[JeepPhisherman]

Yea, I was just looking at those. Don't know if I shoud just pony up for a new unit and get the 3 year warranty, since I'm liable to **** something up on it.
I left the guy a message with an offer of 400, if he calls back, I'll check it out this weekend. I dont think I even really NEED a welder, but I have some $$ and I like buying stuff

[william_ace]

then buy some chit for the garage and lets put it to use. we need to buy a torch now, hmmm. my turn

[Doug Krebs]

I've had a hobart for over 5 years now. Never had a problem with it until david O was using it :flipoff2: Actually, it just need a new tip.

I know scott has a 135 miller and he's ran too many 10 pound spools through it to count.

[agjohn02]

you'll never use it enough to know the difference between the brands. especially if you dont already have a preference. personally, i dont like the incremental amperage control on the hobart. i like the variable control on the miller, but if i were buying one for my personal use and found a deal on a hobart id jump on it and i grew up using millers and like them. you or i are never gonna use one enough around the house to wear it out. i have no opinion on the lincoln but would be happy to have one.

[robertf03]

the regulator they come with is crap with oddball threads. other than that the welder is fine.

I paid 500 for mine too, so they might not hold their value.

[eight]

My dad got one of the 300 amp lincoln ones for $300, but it had had almost a whole roll through it and was 3 years old. We've put about another 2 rolls through it. It works great for all our uses like building exhaust and truck accessories. But they won't use it on trailers and it's not practical for trusses.

I finally used my Lincoln Ranger 10000 and it seems to be good but loud, and I only welded about half a 6011 with it.

[Shaggy]

I paid about 1500 for my hobart generator/welder... a little high but it is portable

[agjohn02]

I finally used my Lincoln Ranger 10000 and it seems to be good but loud, and I only welded about half a 6011 with it.


is this the 360 powered one you built?

[eight]

No that's the 2 year old gas powered one I got for $1000 with 1400 hrs on it. It's powered by a 20 hp kohler. It sits next to the big ugly metal brake with stuff stacked on it, but I start it every time I go home. I think about mounting it in the back of dodge so I look cool.

[CJ4]

my hobart 180 has worked fine for just about anything around the house....usually dont have to turn it up much when welding....i got mine with a helmet, gloves, regulator, and stand for around 700

[JeepPhisherman]

my hobart 180 has worked fine for just about anything around the house....usually dont have to turn it up much when welding....i got mine with a helmet, gloves, regulator, and stand for around 700


Where'd you get yours from?

I've been looking at both the lincoln 175 plus and the hobart 180 now.
Only differences I've seen is that the lincoln will do up to 1/2" with an additional kit and hobart will do up to 5/16".

I'm not sure how much 1/2 stuff I'd be doing, but it would be nice to have the capability.

Looking like about 760 for the lincoln and 650 for the hobart.

[BMFScout]

try here, we got our welder and plasma cutter from them.

http://store.cyberweld.com/migwelders.html

[jerryg79]

Dang that place is right down the road from me, DANG!

[JeepPhisherman]

Any comments as to the hobart welding up to 5/16" only? Can you use a different wire to weld thicker, or just do more passes?

Is the lincoln worth the extra $80?

[eight]

Yea you can weld thicker with multiple passes. The lincoln doesn't weld 1/2" in one pass either.

[TxCruzr]

If you can get a Hobart for the price you want don't be scared by the guys saying they suck or whatever. It will do just fine. When I was oilfield trash last summer I saw a lot of people using hobarts and these guys work 90+ hours a week welding pipeline and welding onto casings. These are arc welders so maybe they're a step above the mig but they sure as hell can take abuse.

[JeepPhisherman]

Alright, I've started looking back into welders lately, to have one around the shop so I don't have to bum welding services all the time.

I've been thinking about just getting a decent stick to have around, but that limits me as far as doing some lighter work and on tubing for the sliders. So, I've been looking at the hobart 180. Anyone ever used this one before? I've found a pretty decent deal on it, so I might just go ahead and buy and ask questions later, but figure I'd try on here real quick.

Also, whats it cost to have someone come out and run a 240 outlet to the garage? I assume it's something that needs to be done by a certified electrician, correct? Or is that something I can do myself without dieing?

[eight]

If you can't weld sliders with a stick you suck.

Get the hobart 180, I like those. Been thinking of getting one for when I build me buggy. Probably won't anyway.

[Doug Krebs]

Alright, I've started looking back into welders lately, to have one around the shop so I don't have to bum welding services all the time.

I've been thinking about just getting a decent stick to have around, but that limits me as far as doing some lighter work and on tubing for the sliders. So, I've been looking at the hobart 180. Anyone ever used this one before? I've found a pretty decent deal on it, so I might just go ahead and buy and ask questions later, but figure I'd try on here real quick.

Also, whats it cost to have someone come out and run a 240 outlet to the garage? I assume it's something that needs to be done by a certified electrician, correct? Or is that something I can do myself without dieing?

The wiring isnt' hard to do... How the hell did our house on austin st. burn down again?

I've had the Hobart 175 for years and it's never given me any problems. I can't say much fro the 180 as I've never used it.

[fbronco86]

I like my millermatic 175. It has the infinite controls on it. I was welding some rusted floor board and you can turn it down to low.

edit i was using the .023/.024 wire so that does help too. My welder also has stickers on it so I am sure that helps out as well.

[JeepPhisherman]

Alright, well I've read some reviews on line and I think it'll work fine, I'll probably pick it up tomorrow.

Anyone dealt with any local electricians on wiring for 240?

[Doug Krebs]

Anyone dealt with any local electricians on wiring for 240?

Seriously the wiring isn't pretty simple. Do you have a drier near by or perhaps an electric water heater? I can help you out with it.

[JeepPhisherman]

Seriously the wiring isn't pretty simple. Do you have a drier near by or perhaps an electric water heater? I can help you out with it.

Isn't or is?
Don't want my brother's house going the way of yalls austin crib....

The drier outlet is right on the other side of the wall I want to put it on, and the water heater is on the adjacent wall. I just didn't know if it was something that needed to be inspected or if it'll get my bro in trouble when we sell the place in two years.

[Doug Krebs]

Isn't or is?
Don't want my brother's house going the way of yalls austin crib....

The drier outlet is right on the other side of the wall I want to put it on, and the water heater is on the adjacent wall. I just didn't know if it was something that needed to be inspected or if it'll get my bro in trouble when we sell the place in two years.

Sorry it is pretty simple, I don't know whats wrong with me.

We have no idea why our house burnt down. It happened after we moved out. It's always kinda fun to joke about though.

Is the drier gas or electric? If it's electric we can just make an extension cord. If it's gas, we can just rob the outlet completly.

Seriously, to do it right it's 4 wires, 3 if you want to do it without a ground.

[eight]

Yes and 2 of those wires are the same color.

[JeepPhisherman]

The drier is electric. So we can just tap into that and run another outlet off of it?
I don't understand nor like electricity, so would there be any problems with running both the welder and the drier at the same time?

I'll pay for beer if you want to help out with it.

Also, do I need to get it inspected after it's installed?

[agjohn02]

cant run the at the same time as the circuit will not be heavy enough.

just make an extension cord and swap the pugs out when you need to weld. depending on how long you want the cord, it'll be around a hundred bucks. copper is expensive.




while we're on electricity, i just plugged in the iron and it makes the lights go dim in kopecki's trailer.

[jerryg79]

I think you're a little inspection happy, all you're doing is making a cord. Even if you were running wire, you're not putting on an addition just running some wire.

[Reckless]

Ill do the wiring for ya, beer and food is considered payment

[JeepPhisherman]

Is there a way to run it so that both can be used at the same time, besides running new wires all the way from the fuse box?

[Doug Krebs]

Is there a way to run it so that both can be used at the same time, besides running new wires all the way from the fuse box?

You can plug both the welder and the drier in at the same time. However, you can't run them both at the same time, as it would most likely blow the breaker.

[agjohn02]

Is there a way to run it so that both can be used at the same time, besides running new wires all the way from the fuse box?


do you really do so much welding, or drying, for it to really matter?

[Graystroke]

where's the electrical panel? if it is in the garage and you have a spare breaker slot just add another breaker and add a junction box/outlet and some conduit and surface mount it on the wall. You can find stuff cheap if you look at loacal sales. I just scored a 42 breaker square D panel at the flea market for $35. They run around $200 new. This should take care of all my garage needs plus I will be set-up when I add a second floor garage apartment. A while back the local True Value was going out of business and my Dad bought all of his breakers for $2 a piece.

[uglyota]

I just scored a 42 breaker square D panel at the flea market for $35. They run around $200 new. This should take care of all my garage needs plus I will be set-up when I add a second floor garage apartment. A while back the local True Value was going out of business and my Dad bought all of his breakers for $2 a piece.
wow, shameless double plug, possibly triple! :flipoff2:

garrett I'll sell you my lincoln 225 crackerjack box (with allpro and uglyfab stickers...better call it a 245 or 250) with a 40ft extension cord for $200. Can bring it up after thanksgiving

[JeepPhisherman]

hmmm, i had already justified the expense in my head. damnit eric

[Graystroke]

wow, shameless double plug, possibly triple! :flipoff2:

garrett I'll sell you my lincoln 225 crackerjack box (with allpro and uglyfab stickers...better call it a 245 or 250) with a 40ft extension cord for $200. Can bring it up after thanksgiving
damn! I'll sell you mine for that and it is a lot newer than his. plus mine is a nascar edition! I didn't think they were worth that much!

[JeepPhisherman]

One went on ebay last night that supposedly has only 2 sticks run through it for $120 in corpus

[jerryg79]

One went on ebay last night that supposedly has only 2 sticks run through it for $120 in corpus

Eric's probably got $80 in the cord.

[JeepPhisherman]

Eric's probably got $80 in the cord.

Yep, forgot about that.

Just trying to decide which way to go. Had my mind made up until Eric had to go and ruin things. I've been reading **** all day about arc v. mig and I still haven't made up my mind. Maybe yall can help...

Haven't done much welding in my life, only some ****ing around at home on an arc, and entc 181 or whatever it is where we did arc/mig/tig/spot welding. I thought I did a better job laying down a nice bead on the arc, but that was on some 1/4" plate with nice 45* bevels. Everything I've read said to start on mig, as that will be easier to learn the pricipals and get a better bead. But, I've also read some saying that you should start with an arc, which will make welding with a mig easy later on in life.

So, any suggestions? If you don't know, I'm picking one up to help with the SAS, so I'm not borrowing equipment all the time, so I'll be welding my inner c's first, spring perches, shock mounts, shackle hangers, frame plating, sliders, bumpers, bed cage eventually, tcase mounts, welding table, little projects around the house, etc.

[Doug Krebs]

I bought a mig, for what we do they just seem alot easier to me. No slag, don't have to switch rods, cold tip, etc... However, they are more expensive, you have to worry about gas once in a while, and the metal has to be reasonably clean.

Arc's are much cheaper and can do something's mig welders can't.

Edit: ask eric why he's selling his arc, probably getting a mig :flipoff2:

[BMFScout]

I'd go with a mig, and I'd have someone that knows what they are doing weld the inner c's back on with an arc and the right rods. The rest you'll be happy you have a mig.

[Graystroke]

you can do that w/ a stick. it would be harder. not look as pretty unless you been at it for a while. A stick is good for it's portabilty and ease of use in weird areas. for instance when I was working at the co-op we would pull the truck around the mill. ground the welder to one of the support legs. ride the elevator to the top. lower a rope and hoist the stinger back up over 100 ft sometimes and start welding 80-100 feet off the ground. you could be welding in all of 20 min. and be done w/ it.
A stick is a good field repair welder and good for heavy stuff. It takes a big and expensive MIG to weld 1/2" plate in a few passes.
there is nothing wrong w/ a stick. I prefer it for certain things. if your trying to kluge **** together then a stick works great. you can cut aluminum w/ it too. For a first welder it would do most of what you want and probably make better (stonger) ugly welds then the pretty ones you would make w/ a MIG.
Start-up wouldn't cost much and if you decide on a MIG later you can always get that and keep the inexpensive stick sitting in the corner for those rainy days.

[BMFScout]

Ask Flem about welders and rainy days!

Everything you've described that an arc is great for, is crap I've never welded. It just depends on what you're working on. for the hobbyist automotive guy, I think an arc is damn near useless compared to a Mig. Now St.John will tell you both are worthless, and TIG is the only way. It's just what you are used to.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

mig is hard to use on a windy day if you don't have a garage to work in. Like jimmy said though, it's all personal preference.

[BMFScout]

Flux core! I hadn't used it much, worked badass on the wrought iron.

[JeepPhisherman]

Alright Doug, looked around the house when I got home. No outlet anywhere for the water heater, I guess they planned it gas when building the house (obviously). And the breaker box has 8 open spots, but it's like literally on the other side of the house. I counted 48' down one wall, then 45' down the front of the house to get to the spot in the garage.

I'm thinking it might just be easier to go ahead and make an extension (25-40') and just plug it into the drier's outlet when I need to use it. If you're bored this weekend though, you can stop by, take a look, and have some cerveza fria.

[JeepPhisherman]

Oh, and I got the hobart 180 with cart and whatnot on clearance for 587.63+tax at TSC. Ought to be put in the good deals section.

[BMFScout]

does sound like a good deal! An extension cord is the way to go. Easy to wire in, and you'll use it even when it is wired in properly, very handy.

[JeepPhisherman]

Yea, I was trying to think of some way I could connect it through the wall though, so I don't have to leave the door open with a cord hanging out it when I'm welding. Don't think the door will close easily around that cable. Maybe a doggy door type thing panel in the wall? Any idears?

[Reckless]

Drill hole in wall and place plug outside

[JeepPhisherman]

Yea, I had thought about that, but I was trying to avoid having to buy an extra male and female end, some of dougs jewness rubbed off on me at HD today I guess.

[jerryg79]

Run a conduit up the wall in the laundry room and into the attic then run the cable over to where you want it in the garage, run the wire all the way through with as much extra as you want then put the ends on.

Oh yeah and dont get a cut in the cable and have the conduit become electrified like at karls house.

[uglyota]

Oh yeah and dont get a cut in the cable and have the conduit become electrified like at karls house.
:gigem:

Garret I would suggest not welding the inner Cs on as your first project. There's a reason everybody's first project is a welding table...it's not a big deal if it fails. At the very least have someone else weld them on for you. I am glad I learned on a stick, though the decision was mostly based on cost. It was harder at first but I learned to recognize a strong weld and it made mig super easy when I finally got a chance to try it. You can also weld practically anything with a stick, I think Kopecki's welded wood once. The right rods are hard to find though.

sounds like a good deal on that welder, I'd buy 2 feet of heavy-ass wire and a female socket and punch a hole through the wall. Also get good gloves and a hood with a big lens and some flap disks for your grinder

[JeepPhisherman]

Hopefully I can talk creighton or someone with a stick to weld up the c's for me. I think they would do better on the thick stuff, including that on my list was a typo.

And, the welder cam with the cart, regulator, hose, extra tips, spool of some kind of flux core, helmet, and gloves. Already have the harbor freight plus size pack of flap discs and grinding wheels :gigem:

[JeepPhisherman]

Yay for me!
http://photos-784.ak.facebook.com/ip002/v50/8/64/8317763/n8317763_35317784_3889.jpg

[Reckless]

Ill be in CS this weekend if ya want me to come by and check out your wiring situatuion

[JeepPhisherman]

sure, I could use someone who's not scared of electricity to look at it.

Cell's in the signature, just give me a call, I'll probably be busy all day Sat.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

your garage looks too clean

[JeepPhisherman]

I swepty :flipoff2:
plus the po's used it as a game room

[JeepPhisherman]

Alright dougie, I went to HD today to buy the stuff to make the extension, but I got confused again.

I'm thinking what I can do is use one of those dryer cords with the 4 wires and run that to a 3 wire receptacle in the garage. Dryer cords come with 6', its about 3.5' to the wall. Then, can I connect the 4 wire to the 3 wire plug like we saw at HD? Then I get another 3 wire plug like we looked at, run some 10/3 extension cord material and either splice it in with the existing cord (could use plug from welder) or find one of those black boxes and just plug the welder into that. I still couldnt find one of those at HD, so might have to run to lowes, or do they not make them like what I need for some reason? Otherwise, I could just use a wall mount plug and just build a little tin foil 16/18 ga box for it.

To summarize:
Drier plug from 220 outlet in laundry room to:
3 wire receptacle in garage wall to:
3 wire plug to:
10/3 cord to:
3 wire receptacle to:
welder

Thought again about just having an extension cord, but it wouldnt fit through the door seal with the door closed unless I put a notch in the door jam, which isn't out of the question.

[AggieTJ2007]

go to praxair, or airgas, I know there is a praxair on airgass and they will be able to hook you up with the right stuff

[Doug Krebs]

go to praxair, or airgas, I know there is a praxair on airgass and they will be able to hook you up with the right stuff

fubar that, we'll get raped!

I'll call central electric supply tommorow and check prices. I know they're cheaper than dealers electric. How long of a cord did you want again? I guess I should really just come to your house and check out the situation.

[JeepPhisherman]

I'm thinking like maybe 35~40 ft so I can run clear to the end of the driveway on a straight shot + the 6' power cord on the welder. If I run straight from the dryer outlet, probably add 8' to that.

[JeepPhisherman]

So...

how do I go from this
http://photos-897.facebook.com/ip002/v49/8/64/8317763/n8317763_35551897_1703.jpg

and this
http://photos-899.facebook.com/ip002/v49/8/64/8317763/n8317763_35551899_1965.jpg

to this
http://photos-901.facebook.com/ip002/v49/8/64/8317763/n8317763_35551901_2234.jpg

Still not sure if I can just drop one of the wires from the dryer plug and add in the 12/3 and run the 3 prong plug on the other end.

[eight]

I'm not sure what you're wanting. Are you wanting to extend the dryer circuit into the garage and put a 50 amp outlet in the garage? Or are you wanting to plug that 50 amp plug into that 30 outlet with an adapter? Or do you just want to change that outlet to a 50 amp, or do you want to keep that outlet and put a 50 amp besides it?

[JeepPhisherman]

I'm trying to make an extension cord for the welder. Want a plug for the dryer receptacle and a receptacle for the welder plug. Don't know about the different types of receptacles/plugs.

[eight]

So, you just want to put an outlet for the welder right next to the outlet that's there, and then you will use an extension cord from that outlet to the welder? Then what you need to do is put an outlet for the welder next to the dryer outlet, and hook the wires up. It would look best to put the new outlet in the wall to match the existing one, but it'd be easier to just use a plug/box combo that can be screwed to the wall. Make sure you put the second outlet between the same 2 studs as the first so you don't have to run wires through a stud. You do not disconnect any wires from the dryer plug. You should have someone come show you how to hook up the wires. It's real simple but you don't want to **** it up.

[JeepPhisherman]

No, I want to plug into that outlet with an extension cord for my welder. Can I not do that?

[eight]

Yea you can do that. Don't see what you're asking then. You know what you want, go buy the ends that match what you need.

[Chadnutz]

Here's the deal... You have two 120V legs going into your house. Some 120V circuits branch off of one leg and some off of the other. your 240V circuits for the dryer, heater, etc come from both legs. AC powered devices do not need a ground to operate. The ground is for safety. They do, however, need a neutral line. Sometimes when a breaker box doesn't have a ground, people just hook the ground up to the neutral bus. If your dryer has a three prong plug, then it contains two hots and one neutral. If it has four, then it also has a ground. If your welder has three, then it's the same thing. If it has four, then it has a ground. If the outlet is three pronged and the welder is four pronged, then you just don't hook up the ground and it will still work. Again, the ground wire is only used when something shorts. It provides the path of least resistance. You may need to go to Central Electric in Bryan with sketches of the plugs if you can't bring them in. They will have the correct male and female ends for you and they will also have the insulated 3 or 4 conductor wire for you. If it is four wire, it should have black, white, red and green. If it is three conductor, it should have red, black, and white or two blacks. BLACK IS HOT!!!!! BLACK IS NOT GROUND!!!! White is neutral. Do not reverse them. You can also just make the cord for your welder longer and then you'd only have to buy the male end and the plug that fits into your dryer outlet.

Got it?

In edit: It looks as though your dryer outlet is 4 conductor and your welder is three conductor. The 90 degree prong is the ground. You could just buy some three conductor wire and don't use the ground. If I were you I would just buy a plug that fits that outlet and wire it all the way back to the welder. If you do it this way, you could include a ground wire by getting a 4 conductor wire and connecting the ground to any part of the frame of the welder..

[JeepPhisherman]

So I can just use the 4 prong (50 amp) plug and just not use the ground? Run this with 10 or 12/3 to a receptacle for the 3 prong (20 amp) plug on the welder?

Extending the cord for the welder was an option, but I think I want to keep that "stock" just in case anything ever happens.

[Chadnutz]

12 gauge is good for 25 amps and should be fine. It would be cheaper to make a new cord for the welder. You could always hang on to the pigtail and return it to stock condition if necessary.

[JeepPhisherman]

Me and dougie got everything finished. Gracias doug.

Finished opening/setting up the welder and laid a little bead on some piece of metal I bought at TSC for $1. Remembered I shouldnt be welding on wood after I set my workbench on fire and put it out with my spit bottle.

I'll be scavenging at a buddies ranch on saturday to find free metal for a table, and that will be my first project.

yay for me