Project Mongo

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I have the bender and will be down by wednesday evening w/ it and Fricks boomer.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

sounds great. Give me a call at 979-204-1298 when you get here. Do I owe you anything for this?

[CRaSHnBuRN]

did a little fender trimming today

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0142.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0153.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0150.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0151.sized.jpg

[CRaSHnBuRN]

then I cut out the rear crossmember and the abortion of a upper shock mount I built earlier, then built a new rear bumper and moved the stock 4runner gas tank to between the rear framerails

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0164.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0166.sized.jpg

[CRaSHnBuRN]

steering box moved forward and up

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0146.sized.jpg

[uglyota]

you retard I'm gonna kick you in the nuts next time I see you :flipoff2:

[CRaSHnBuRN]

you retard I'm gonna kick you in the nuts next time I see you :flipoff2:

:flipoff2:

[BMFScout]

Without trying to sound like a dick, why did you start with a 4runner? Looks like you cut away everything that was 4runner about it. I think it's going to be cool, just looks a lot more like a truck now than a 4runner.

[agjohn02]

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0142.sized.jpg




i would reroute that exhaust, it might be a bit annoying there.

[JeepPhisherman]

And why is the muffler pointed at the drivers right ass-cheek?

[JeepPhisherman]

Damnit john

[agjohn02]

Damnit john


what? i gave you two days to beat me to it.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

i would reroute that exhaust, it might be a bit annoying there.

its the new high clearence exhaust :flipoff2:


****, I would have figured someone would have caught that and said something about it alot earlier

[CRaSHnBuRN]

Without trying to sound like a dick, why did you start with a 4runner? Looks like you cut away everything that was 4runner about it. I think it's going to be cool, just looks a lot more like a truck now than a 4runner.


because I couldn't find a truck in better shape for a lower price at the time. I know alot of people think I am crazy for doing this, but let me try to explain it a little. Before I bought the 4runner, I had spent about 2 months looking for a new rig to build. I was looking at 4runners, trucks, and landcruisers, and nearly bought a FJ-80. Then Grayson put this thing up for sale. I have always wanted a 4runner, and it was one of the few toy vehicles I haven't owned (I had one but it was a rolled parts truck). I could have left all the sheetmetal in the back, but I knew it would all be destroyed inn the long run. Remember I'm moving from a little buggy with nothing to damage back to a much larger rig with lots of sheetmetal. Its going to take some getting used to, and body damage will occur. I decided that while cutting it the way I did was a little drastic, I think that doing it now and trying to do it cleanly would be better than bashing it all up, then trying to do something about it at a later time.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

as for the truck versus 4runner thing, I am considering putting the rear seat back in. I can't decide if its worth it or not, but it still fits fine

[CRaSHnBuRN]

so, what is everyones opinion. Do I keep the rear seats or not? I can mod the cage to keep the seat, but foot room will be kinda tight

[Reckless]

keep em

[BMFScout]

I'd keep the seat. You'll need a place for your cats to ride along on the trail! :flipoff2:

[CRaSHnBuRN]

I'd keep the seat. You'll need a place for your cats to ride along on the trail! :flipoff2:

very funny, but the girlfriend's cats can stay at home

[colman]

keep it, you can always use the seatbelts for a cooler if ther is noone there

[Graystroke]

keep the seat... I would also make the cage and the rear of the cab except some sort of bikini top to keep the sun out. use the hardtop bolt holes except some kind of channel that you can bolt on. have your bikini top made w/ a rope sewed in it and then slide it into the channel like a camper's awning.....is it going to have a tailgate? it would be cool if it had a working tailgate of some sort...plus you crap wouldn't slide out.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

as far as a soft top goes, its not that hard to modify a CJ bikini top to work

[CRaSHnBuRN]

for the people who said keep the rear seat :flipoff2:



Its been a real PITA changing all my plans in a attempt to keep it. And no matter how I do things, there is not going to be alot of leg room for anyone sitting in the back.


BTW, bending tube and fitting everything up by yourself with no one to help out really sucks.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

a little tube work

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0179.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0176.sized.jpg

crappy pics of the sliders

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0182.sized.jpg

[CRaSHnBuRN]

what all do I need to do to upgrade to 35 spline stuff in my front axle? My inner axles are the non neck down kind, so I think all I need would be the new outer stubs, drive flanges or locking hubs, and some new u-joints, right? What kind of cost am I looking at to do this? I'd like to go with all new chromoly stuff, but don't think I can afford that at the moment. I don't know if it would really even be needed for a low powered rig like mine

[agjohn02]

you'll pay nearly as much for stock stuff as you will for alloy. they both use the same u-joints afaik.

http://www.4wdfactory.biz/osc2.2/product_info.php?products_id=29&osCsid=543c352af00e28429f183774be82cf64

[CRaSHnBuRN]

yeah, I guess I could go with chromoly stubs, then upgrade the inners later when I have a little more money.

did you go with the package you listed? Does it include U-joints, or only if you upgrade to the CTMs?

[agjohn02]

no, i got a full set of axles. i think that set includes spicer joints and locking hubs. you can upgrade to ctm's or drive flanges. i dont think you are going to beat that deal for what you want.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

yeah, if it does include U-joints that is a pretty decent deal. I wonder what the difference between the different drive flanges offered are?

[CRaSHnBuRN]

is the spicer 5-806x the best stock type u-joint available for a D60? What is the cheapest that anyone has found them? I've seen 40 bucks, but can anyone beat that?

Also, has anyone found any decent deals on 35 spline stub axles? 4wd factory has the stock type ones for 64 bucks, and the cheapest chromoly ones I've found was 95 bucks at Sky MFG.

Basically I'm just seeing if I can find the parts seperately for cheaper than what it would cost me to go with the 4wd Factory package once I add the chromoly and drive flange upgrade (and taxes since they are here in texas)

[redcagepatrol]

If you can find the money, get some better shafts than the Yukons. That is one of the things that I wish I did differently. The Yukon shafts only turn to 35 degrees - there are planty others out there that guarentee to 42+ degrees. A good turning radius will be your best friend. I might even change mine...
http://www.moserengineering.com/Pages/Axles/max4460.html
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/

[Shaggy]

leave it 31 spline if you are gonna be cheap with it. there are plenty of used stubs out there or upgrade when you destroy it...

[Doug Krebs]

leave it 31 spline if you are gonna be cheap with it. there are plenty of used stubs out there or upgrade when you destroy it...

but it seems like most of the time the stub shaft mushrooms the spindle...

[Shaggy]

you have a point... disregard my comment

[CRaSHnBuRN]

but it seems like most of the time the stub shaft mushrooms the spindle...

yes, this is what I'm hoping to avoid. I was kinda hoping I could sell some of my current stuff to help off set the cost of going to 35 spline stuff and drive flanges. Plus even the stock type 35 spline shafts and the new spicer joints would be a decent strength upgrade over what I have now

[Reckless]

ya left your diff cover bolts at westons

[CRaSHnBuRN]

I don't need them since I got new ones with the new cover. He cab keep them or throw them away

[CRaSHnBuRN]

anyone know off hand what size the two studs for the diff side spring pad are on a dodge D60? I want to say they were 9/16 course thread, but I can't remember for sure. Krebs, Kopecki? I want to pick up the correct size studs since the bolts I used to bolt it all together before were to long.

[eight]

I don't use those. Mine were 5/8 but I think I had tapped them.

[Doug Krebs]

dodge and chevy are different if I remember correctly. I think dodge is 9/16 and chevy is 5/8 like kopecki said

[CRaSHnBuRN]

yeah, the u-bolt kit I got had 5/8 studs, but those didn't work with my D60

[Sharpe]

Just go buy some high grade all-thread, thats what I did. Chevies are indeed 5/8.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

thats basically what I meant when I said studs, but I just wanted to check on the size before I bought anything. I gotta go by mack this weekend anyway, so I'm going to call and see if they have any 9/16 B7 all-thread

[CRaSHnBuRN]

did a little more work on the 4runner this weekend

Front seat mounts

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0343.sized.jpg

I'm going to cover the frame section in the middle above the t-cases with aluminum. The rear seat mounts had to be at floor level due to the height of the seat, so those mounts come up from the frame underneath. I didn't have time to get pics of that

[CRaSHnBuRN]

some more pics of the rear tube work painted

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0366.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0365.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0356.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0352.sized.jpg

[CRaSHnBuRN]

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0353.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0357.sized.jpg

I'm going to remove the doors, and continue the rear fender bars angling down to the front of the sliders. I'm also going to wrap the back end of the rear fender bars around to meet the rest of the tubing when I'm done with the upper portion of the exo

[CRaSHnBuRN]

the front fenders

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0349.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0350.sized.jpg

the front bumper isn't finished or painted because I don't know if I'm going to leave it like that. It just didn't turn out like I wanted it to, so if I have enough tubing, I may cut it off and start over with a different design

[TxCruzr]

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0352.sized.jpg

Do you plan on leaving the front of that tube like that? I would try to make a curved piece on the end that curves towards the body to keep from hanging up on it.
The top tube on the front bumper is too straight and sticks out.
Looks really sweet though :cool:

[mudtoy67]

Do you plan on leaving the front of that tube like that? I would try to make a curved piece on the end that curves towards the body to keep from hanging up on it.
The top tube on the front bumper is too straight and sticks out.
Looks really sweet though :cool:

Maybe you should read the posts and not just look at the pretty pictures.:flipoff2: :laughing:


Mongo's looking good. :gigem:

[CRaSHnBuRN]

Do you plan on leaving the front of that tube like that? I would try to make a curved piece on the end that curves towards the body to keep from hanging up on it.
The top tube on the front bumper is too straight and sticks out.
Looks really sweet though :cool:

yeah, try reading next time :flipoff2: I knew the rail sticking out in the back was going to be a problem. At first I was going to wrap it back into the cab, but then decided to ditch the doors and run the tube from the rail down kinda like a permanent tube door. It would also help keep things from getting hung up as the vehicle slid along rocks and stuff. As for the bumper, yeah it ended up to straight and funky looking, hence the reason I'm plannin on ditching it. Other than the fender bars, its only bolted on, so it shouldn't be to hard to remove it. I'm going to cut the fender bars close to the bumper, then sleeve them and go with the new design from there

[TxCruzr]

Maybe you should read the posts and not just look at the pretty pictures.:flipoff2: :laughing:


Mongo's looking good. :gigem:


i dont reed gud :flipoff2:

I like the front fender bars. I've always like mini's and 4runners with the front cut like that :cool:

[uglyota]

holy crap do you have a spy in "John's shop?" Those exposed ends of tubing look strangely familiar

[agjohn02]

holy crap do you have a spy in "John's shop?" Those exposed ends of tubing look strangely familiar



loose lips sink ships, eric.

[uglyota]

you haven't seen the pics I put in PBB Chit-chat :confused2

[agjohn02]

guess i missed them. oh well.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

If you can find the money, get some better shafts than the Yukons. That is one of the things that I wish I did differently. The Yukon shafts only turn to 35 degrees - there are planty others out there that guarentee to 42+ degrees. A good turning radius will be your best friend. I might even change mine...
http://www.moserengineering.com/Pages/Axles/max4460.html
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/

any one know how many degrees the alloy USA ones are rated for?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

loose lips sink ships, eric.

and your's are the loosest around....









sorry bout that, back on topic

[CRaSHnBuRN]

some new bling

solid axle drive flanges

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0376.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0379.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0381.sized.jpg

These things are beefy. The slug is 4340 and the cover plates are billet steel versus aluminum which most of the competitors use.

http://www.solidaxle.com/products/d60driveflange.htm

[CRaSHnBuRN]

Alloy USA 35 spline stub shafts

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0393.sized.jpg

Spicer 5-806x u-joints, kingpin rebuild kits, and new wheel bearings

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0384.sized.jpg

Now I just need to get the D60 reassembled and back underneath the 4runner

[CRaSHnBuRN]

closer

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0418.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0428.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0421.sized.jpg

door bars are not welded in yet since I may need to remove them while putting in my cage. It takes a little work to get them out, but they can still be pulled

[CRaSHnBuRN]

seats mounted

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0425.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0426.sized.jpg

[CRaSHnBuRN]

finally it runs. I still have some minor stuff to do, but for the most part its done for now

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0477.sized.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0478.sized.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0475.sized.jpg

[CRaSHnBuRN]

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0471.sized.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0469.sized.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0476.sized.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0470.sized.jpg

[redcagepatrol]

that thing came out pretty cool :gigem:

I like the rear fenders, that came out pretty cool. Good to see some good parts going into the axles, always better to do it right the first time

Can't wait to see it on the trail :gigem:

[redcagepatrol]

the only downside I'm seeing is no bed / floor in the back. Do you have plans for something? That's one thing that I don't like in the Patrol - there's just no-place to put tools, an ice-chest etc...

[CRaSHnBuRN]

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0499.sized.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0494.sized.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0495.sized.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0496.sized.jpg

[CRaSHnBuRN]

the only downside I'm seeing is no bed / floor in the back. Do you have plans for something? That's one thing that I don't like in the Patrol - there's just no-place to put tools, an ice-chest etc...


Thanks for the compliments. As for the ice chest and tools, there is a pretty large open area where the rear seat used to be. I'm going to build a rack there when I can get a chance. I may also put some kind of rack in that area above the gas tank. Like I said, I still have alot of little things I would still like to do, but some of it may have to wait a little while

[william_ace]

that looks real good chris. nice work

[Seth]

looks good. tall. what tire size?

[bcolman]

looks good, but is it just me or does the front sit lower than the rear?

[JeepPhisherman]

Looking good Feller, when's the cherry popin?

[agjohn02]

looks good, but is it just me or does the front sit lower than the rear?


yeah, i like the rake. looks good chris.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

The rear is taller than the front. The reason for that is I set the rear up when I thought I was still going to keep all the sheetmetal and hardtop. When I have the time I want to change the location of the rear shackle hangers to get a better angle and remove the overload leaf from the rear springs. This should lower it a bit and help with the ride quality

[CRaSHnBuRN]

Looking good Feller, when's the cherry popin?

I would like to take it out to 47 sometime in January for a official break in run. After that, I might go to gilmer in early febuary, or maybe Tree's ranch if its open.

[uglyota]

looks sweet, what did you put the wheelbase at?

[CRaSHnBuRN]

its at 110 right now. I think I'm going to kick the rear axle back a little more when I rework the rear suspension

[CRaSHnBuRN]

I've always had problems with knocking tires off of the bead, but I think I set a new personal record this weekend. I managed to debead a tire in less than 3 minutes of screwing around. And that was with 10 PSI in the tire. It looks like I'm going to finally have to break down and get some beadlocked wheels.



EDIT: I forgot to mention I also scared the hell out of my new city slicker brother in law when I used the starter fluid trick to reseat the bead :D

[DRAGOONRANCH]

You cant be lettin trash like that into the family.


If that scared him, bring him on a trip. We will get a kick out of him. ;)

[CRaSHnBuRN]

You cant be lettin trash like that into the family.


If that scared him, bring him on a trip. We will get a kick out of him. ;)


Well on his behalf, he wasn't really expecting it. I started spraying carb cleaner into the tire, and when he asked me what it was I told him it was a type of fix a flat. He looked at me a little funny when I asked him for his pack of matches. The look on his face when I threw the burning match at the tire and the resulting explosion was great. But as for being a city boy, he is actually getting better. He is starting to really get into hunting with guns and bows this year. He still has a long way to go, but he is alot better than most of the dip****s my sister has dated

[CRaSHnBuRN]

after the trip to Tree's ranch last month I noticed I was leaking gear oil from somewhere near my t-cases. I pulled them this weekend only to find that all the studs on the back end of my dual case adapter had backed out. Luckily no damage was done. I also broke one of my stock t-case mounts (I run two, one on each case). I knew the one that broke was not in the best shape, but it surprised me that it came apart that quickly. I'm thinking it may be related to the studs backing out.

So, since the mount was trashed anyway, I built this out of the remains (the 7/16 GR 5 bolt is just there for mock up purposes since I didn't have another 1/2 bolt long enough).

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_1312.sized.jpg

The mount is about a 1/2" taller than the stock mount, which also let me ditch the cheesy spacers that came with my t-case crossmember. I also moved my front axle forward 1.5" and added a traction bar. I'll also be adding one to the rear, but I have some other plans I need to implement first

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_1319.sized.jpg

[AggieTJ2007]

i assume you are not making it to TCC

[CRaSHnBuRN]

i assume you are not making it to TCC

I don't know yet, but I would guess my chances of making it are pretty low. I want to go, but I still have alot of work to do

[RCcola55]

i was always under the impression that the shackle on the traction bar needs to be opposite of the spring shackle inorder to prevent binding, am i wrong here? it would be nice to know so when its time to do mine i wont have a headache trying to attach it to a front crossmember.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

i was always under the impression that the shackle on the traction bar needs to be opposite of the spring shackle inorder to prevent binding, am i wrong here? it would be nice to know so when its time to do mine i wont have a headache trying to attach it to a front crossmember.

this is the way I understand it (word of caution here, I've been drinking heavily since 4pm). You want the traction bar end of the shackle facing the direction that the traction bar is twisting towards. In the rear, that means you want the traction bar end of the shackle facing upward since the traction bar will try to rotate upwards, pulling on the shackle. On the front, the traction bar tries to rotate downwards, which means you want the shackle setup similar to mine.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I was under the impression that the shackle needed to be on the opposite side of the axle as the leafspring shackle (i.e. your's would need to be in the front of the truck). I think this is what Clarke was tryin to get at.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

I was under the impression that the shackle needed to be on the opposite side of the axle as the leafspring shackle (i.e. your's would need to be in the front of the truck). I think this is what Clarke was tryin to get at.

I've heard it argued both ways. I've also seen alot of rigs running a traction bar similar to mine on the front and it did not seem to limit flex enough to worry about. I had no room to put a traction bar facing forward, so this will have to work

[JeepPhisherman]

Fixed the brakes yet?

And if I can make it to TCC, so can you.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

Fixed the brakes yet?

And if I can make it to TCC, so can you.


Haven't touched them yet other than rerouting a few lines. As for TCC, I don't really have the cash right now, and with less than two weekends to go I don't have alot of time. Its alot easier for you since you have your truck at your apartment. I have to drive three hours to get to mine

[CRaSHnBuRN]

How much wheelbase is to much for the kind of wheeling we do here in Texas?

When we went to Tree's ranch I was sitting at 110 inches, and thought it worked very well. I've been making some minor changes to fix a few things I didn't like, and one of those was my rear shackle angle. I originally set it when I still was planning on running a full bodied rig with hardtop, so now with alot less weight on them, the shackles are damn near vertical. This made for a very rough ride, so I decided to change the shackle angle by moving the spring hangers back a few inches. Since I didn't know exactly how much I really needed, I made the new hangers with three sets of holes, about 1.25" apart. Right now I have the springs in the last set of holes. With shocks mounted, the shackle angle is about 45 degrees, and the 4runner is sitting level, but the wheelbase is at 115 inches. I can't decide whether I want to keep it at this, or move it forward to the next set of holes in order to decrease the wheelbase a little and increase the shackle angle a few degrees

[william_ace]

do you have a pic 8of your shackle angle?

[CRaSHnBuRN]

do you have a pic 8of your shackle angle?

no, but like I said they are at about 45 degrees with the shocks mounted. If I pull the shocks, it drops even more. The suspension seems alot softer now, which may be good and bad (better ride, but the diff could hit my gas tank)

[AggieTJ2007]

bumpstops they are good

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I am sitting at about 120"s on the cheby (IIRC), and it does pretty good for a fullsize.

[JeepPhisherman]

I've always had 112" stuck in my head as an ideal wheel base for most stuff. I don't remember if I read that somewhere or if it's just some generic Pirate bull**** I picked up.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

bumpstops they are good

My plan is one bumpstop centered above the diff to keep it from getting too friendly with the gas tank

[CRaSHnBuRN]

I've always had 112" stuck in my head as an ideal wheel base for most stuff. I don't remember if I read that somewhere or if it's just some generic Pirate bull**** I picked up.

I've gone from ~103 with my pickup, to 106-108 with my buggy, and finally 110 with the 4runner. The longer wheelbases seem to work alot better, but I'm sure there is a point of diminishing returns, and I'm betting I'm pretty close to it. I do think the fact that my rear axle is pretty narrow helps me when trying to pivot around something that normally will hang up a long wheelbase rig.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

rear slip and twist traction bar

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0583.sized.jpg

rerouted the brake lines and did away with several feet worth of softline

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0589.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0590.sized.jpg

[CRaSHnBuRN]

puma 12V air compressor

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0580.sized.jpg

extra storage. I'm going to ditch the crappy plastic boxes I was using at Tree's and use that area to carry ice chests and other crap I can strap down. The ammo boxes in the back will hold tools, straps, fluids, etc.

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0581.sized.jpg

[CRaSHnBuRN]

added a little more tube work and stretched the wheel base 1.5" in the front and 2.5" in the rear for a total of 114".

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0575.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0573.sized.jpg

[redcagepatrol]

looking good, can't wait to see it hit the trail again!

[CheapJeep]

I'm diggin it, looks good.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

it is peemp for sure!

[uglyota]

looks bad ass, nice job
what'd the traction bar bracket start as? 2x4x1/4?

[CRaSHnBuRN]

looks bad ass, nice job
what'd the traction bar bracket start as? 2x4x1/4?

Both traction bars started as 1.75x.120 DOM with a 2x1x.120 crossbrace. I then added a piece of 1.5x1.5x.120 angle to the bottom to help keep the tubing from getting bent. We'll see if it really helps or not. The rear slip piece is 1.5x.250 DOM

[CRaSHnBuRN]

Thanks for all the compliments everyone

[uglyota]

I meant the axle-end bracket. It looks really stout.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

I meant the axle-end bracket. It looks really stout.


3/8 plate, and the crossbraces are made out of some of the scrap left over from building my spring hangers.

[CheapJeep]

Did you run a shackled traction bar on either of your old rigs? Just wondering if you noticed any difference between a slip vs. shackle setup.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

Did you run a shackled traction bar on either of your old rigs? Just wondering if you noticed any difference between a slip vs. shackle setup.

No, my old truck had the extra traction leaf on top of the spring pack, and the buggy had the two bars mounted from the frame to the axle directly under the spring. Both setups were pretty different from what I have now. Plus I haven't really had anything to test these things on yet.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

a couple of new pics from the trip to Tree's in February

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album188/trees1.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album188/trees2.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album188/trees3.sized.jpg

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Man that thing looks peemp.

[85cj7]

on your rear slip and twist traction bar, did you have any heims or were there just bushings at every end? Also how did this set-up work out for you?

[CRaSHnBuRN]

on your rear slip and twist traction bar, did you have any heims or were there just bushings at every end? Also how did this set-up work out for you?

I know this is a old post, but I figured I would answer it and give some updates.

On the slip and twist, I had a 3/4 hiem at the frame. I sold it before I got to try it out much, but it seemed to eliminate any hopping. The rear still flexes enough that the tires destroyed the fenders up to exo bars running down the length of the bed. As for the front, it still flexes like crazy as well. If I still have access later, I'll try to post some pictures

The new owner is actually located in college station, and he says it works very well and he has noticed no axle wrap, front or rear