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CRaSHnBuRN
09-01-2006, 09:53 AM
Well, its time for a new project. As most of you know, I sold the buggy a few months back. I loved wheeling it, but after me and my ex fiancee called it quits, I no longer had a place to keep it and work on it. Plus, I was ready for a change. I missed the capability to just hop in a truck and go wheeling. The buggy always seemed to require several days of prep time, between getting it ready, making sure I had propane, and securing a trailer. Plus, I was at a point where any of the mods I wanted to do required a major reworking of how things were layed out or lots of money. I also didn't care for the lack of comfort, storage space, and basic protection from the elements the buggy had. Sure, it seemed to go anywhere, but that came at a price.

agjohn02
09-01-2006, 09:56 AM
ok, so now that we know why you sold the buggy again... whats the new project?

CRaSHnBuRN
09-01-2006, 09:58 AM
So, after a short break, I started to look for the next project. I wanted a FJ-80, but the cost and overall size presented a problem. So in the end, I settled on the 4runner Grayson recently put up for sale. It was in decent shape, and fairly rust free which were a big deal for me. I've always wanted a first generation 4runner, but most that I have found were total rust buckets. So a deal was struck, and now this is sitting in my drive way

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/DSCN2021.sized.jpg

CRaSHnBuRN
09-01-2006, 09:59 AM
ok, so now that we know why you sold the buggy again... whats the new project?

dammit boy, give me time to type :flipoff2:

CRaSHnBuRN
09-01-2006, 10:08 AM
at this point, the basic plan is still forming, but here is what I'm hoping to do. The tires will need to be replaced soon, and it looks like the front CVs (IFS axleshafts) are not in the best of shape, so the only smart thing is to SAS the *****. I currently have my taco up for sale, and depending on what I get from the sale of it, I hope to do a D60/D70U combo. I'm tired of messing with greasy toyota axles, and since I have a chance to start anew, I think one tons will be the best choice, especially since this will serve as a daily driver (less worry of breakage keeping me down). Tire wise, I want to go somewhere in the 37-40 inch range, on H2 wheels. I know that is alot of tire for a daily driver, but in reality, I only drive at most 10-15 miles a week, so its not that bad. As for the choice of the D70U, I like it because it seems strong (1.5 inch, 35 spline shafts), has a smooth bottom with better clearence than a 14 bolt, and allows deeper gearing options than a 14 bolt, which I will most likely need.

DRAGOONRANCH
09-01-2006, 10:11 AM
So, after a short break, I started to look for the next project. I wanted a FJ-80, but the cost and overall size presented a problem. So in the end, I settled on the 4runner Grayson recently put up for sale. It was in decent shape, and fairly rust free which were a big deal for me. I've always wanted a first generation 4runner, but most that I have found were total rust buckets. So a deal was struck, and now this is sitting in my drive way

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album225/DSCN2021.sized.jpg

Chiney. :gigem:

CRaSHnBuRN
09-01-2006, 10:16 AM
after the axle, things get a little blurry. For the front suspension, I want to use leaf springs, but I would really like to link the rear. Finances will decide how that goes. For the most part I will be using little tricks I've learned in order to SAS it for the cheapest amount possible (I'll get into that later).

But in the begining, I'll most likely just concentrate on the basics, like bumpers, sliders, and most importantly, a good roll cage (don't want a repeat of last time).

CRaSHnBuRN
09-01-2006, 10:18 AM
oddly enough, it takes real nice pictures, but the paint job is kinda rough. I'll probaly just rattle can it since I think the strips look wierd, and I have never liked the color red.

eight
09-01-2006, 10:19 AM
I don't think the size of the tire matters much for highway driving. Kurt's jeep on 37" bfg ats drove great. Put some TSLs and it probably wouldn't. My youngest brother's F250 rode kinda bad with the 38" TSL radials on it but much better with those 39" radial trxus sts queer looking tires. I suggest some 37" bfg mts or I think there is now a 37" trxus mud tire.

CRaSHnBuRN
09-01-2006, 10:33 AM
one other thing I would like to do that is different from most toyota buildups is I think I'm gonna try to use a D300 T-case connected to the back of the gear section of a toyota t-case. OTT builds the adaptor, and it will give me the capablity for true twin stick with front dig capability, as well as allowing me to clock the t-case and hopefully build a flat belly pan, like my buggy had.

I would also like to keep using toyota driveshafts. This may seem wierd, especially since I hope to use both a domestic t-case and axles, but let me explain. To begin, toyota u-joints must be pressed in to the yoke, and use a flange style setup to attach to the axle and t-case. They seem to be quite a bit stronger than 1310 stuff, and rarely break on the trail. I've killed one, and it had nearly 200K miles on it, with nearly 10k being at extreme angles. But even then, it didn't let go, but merely bent until the yokes touched (this was while on the highway doing 70 mph). Plus they're easy and cheap to build stronger (heavy wall tubing or square, take your pick).

But this idea led to a dilema. How to attach them to the axles and t-case. As far as the axles go, I will most likely buy the flange from high angle driveline. As for the T-case side, I'm working on it. At one point, I hoped to use flanges from a isuzu D44, but now I don't think that will work. But there is still hope, as the isuzu t-case uses the same size and spline flange, yet it is circular, allowing it to be redrilled for the toyota pattern. It will require some minor machine work, but it appears that it may work

CRaSHnBuRN
09-01-2006, 10:36 AM
I don't think the size of the tire matters much for highway driving. Kurt's jeep on 37" bfg ats drove great. Put some TSLs and it probably wouldn't. My youngest brother's F250 rode kinda bad with the 38" TSL radials on it but much better with those 39" radial trxus sts queer looking tires. I suggest some 37" bfg mts or I think there is now a 37" trxus mud tire.

yeah, there seems to be more large, road friendly tires on the market today, so I don't think size should be a big problem. Power might, but I'll work on that.

CRaSHnBuRN
09-01-2006, 10:43 AM
Oh yeah, anyone guess where the name for this thing came from? Its a little more fitting for a larger vehicle, but I figure someday the name will fit pretty well

Graystroke
09-01-2006, 10:50 AM
Rovers have drve flanges and pressed in u-joints. discoII have doubke cv's on the front DS. that's what i put on my RR. All I had to change was the t-case output and it bolted on. Gotta love it!

Graystroke
09-01-2006, 10:51 AM
What's wrong w/ the CV's? I never noticed anything granted I only had it in 4wd once but it didn't make any noise.

CRaSHnBuRN
09-01-2006, 11:05 AM
well, nothing much, but there was a little grease on the arms around them. I felt around, and there are some small tears on the boots. Nothing bad, and at this point the CVs are fine. But they will rip more and eventually wear out the more I use them. No big deal, becuase I never planned to give them a chance, even if they were like new. IFS was never meant to be used on a true 4x4

CheapJeep
09-01-2006, 12:57 PM
You get the name from "Blazing Saddles" or what? :laughing:

Looks like a cool project, I think it's cool that you're building a wheelable d.d. Seem's like you have a plan in place, just need to execute it.

stx4wheeler
09-01-2006, 01:05 PM
the 70's are heavier, and have less option for lockers i believe, plus they are harder to find. I would go with a sterling, or 14 bolt for cheapness. In sterlings you can get 6.27 gear sets, there are four or five of us in the club using them with no problems so far, plus they are 1.5 inch 35 spline as well, just a thought. Dont rattle can that paint job it looks cool.

CheapJeep
09-01-2006, 01:16 PM
I don't know about the paint job, looks kinda "Back to the Future" esque. 14bolts are cheaper to buy and upgrade, have a 1.575" shaft diameter and 30 spline's compared to the sterling's 1.343" shaft diameter and 35 splines. The sterling has about an 1" more clearance than the 14, but the tubes on a sterling are held in place with spot welds where as the 14 has the tubes welded into the housing. So really they're about even when you consider all the facts...

Reckless
09-01-2006, 01:30 PM
He does have a point, and i think ya can shave about an inch off of the housing bottom like Scott did with the D60.

AggieTJ2007
09-01-2006, 01:44 PM
sounds like fun, I like the plan but please leave the paint job, its incredible

CRaSHnBuRN
09-01-2006, 01:50 PM
yeah, the name came from Blazing Saddles. If you've never seen the movie, you should :D

As for the D70, thing, from what I have heard the D70U is lighter than the 14 bolt, and has a alot more clearence (almost more than a D60, the bottom is smooth and egg shaped). If that is true, I don't know, but it would be interesting to know.

CRaSHnBuRN
09-01-2006, 01:54 PM
as for the paint job, its cool looking, but needs some work. The pictures don't show it, but it looks rougher up close.

eight
09-01-2006, 01:55 PM
I can't remember any 1310s broken besides from axle wrap. The only one I replaced often was the one at the rear axle because when I pulled the driveshaft off to flat tow it sometimes the cap would fall off and get dirt in it. I don't think that'll be a problem now much with a cv. Do what you want, but the toyoda stuff's gonna cost you quite a bit more.

14 bolt shafts are the same size as d60 30 spline shafts in the middle. d70 shafts are 1.5" or more the whole way. Where my 60 broke the shaft is the same size as a 14 bolt. Those with sterlings haven't wheeled them hard, except for Ryan, but then he doesn't have that big of tires. I saw knoller's old girlfriend wheel his old bronco harder with the 16 spline 60 and it never broke.

At least use a paint gun. You'll get the carpal tunnel in the finger from all that rattle canning.

There are more lockers available for a 70 than a 14 bolt.

CRaSHnBuRN
09-01-2006, 02:05 PM
toyota stuff would cost more if I already had the 1310 stuff, but since I still have to buy it, its a toss up. In the end I think I'll be happier with the toy stuff (especially since I have it already). Plus its easy to make square D-shafts for the front out of toy stuff, and for the rear you can use 2.5 inch SCH-40 for a cheap and easy heavy wall driveshaft.

CRaSHnBuRN
09-01-2006, 02:07 PM
as for the paint, thats the last thing I'll give a **** about, so we'll figure it out if the rig lasts that long :flipoff2:

Sharpe
09-01-2006, 02:11 PM
the tubes on a sterling are held in place with spot welds where as the 14 has the tubes welded into the housing. So really they're about even when you consider all the facts...
Um yah this isnt exactly correct. While I have not examined a sterling closely I am going to assume that the tubes are pressed into the housing and PLUG welded, just like a 14 bolt. Spot welding and plug welding are two very different techniques, and spot welding isnt really suited to the application.

I dont know about other brands but Chevy D70's have 4" diameter tubes until the very ends where they neck down to 3.5". The 14 bolt is 3.5" all the way out and about ~3/8" thick. All in all I would consider the strength arguments prety arbitrary and focus more on cost and ground clearance. All in all (after lockers, brakes, actual axle cost, etc.) the 14 bolt is much cheaper and easier to find, but yes you do sacrifice some ground clearance. As everyone knows, you can shave about 1" off the bottom of the 14 bolt without any hastle whatsoever, its prety much straight up easy. You can go a little further if you are willing to work harder but I dont really see the point.

In summary, this is why I went with a 14 bolt.

CRaSHnBuRN
09-01-2006, 02:20 PM
okay explain this to me. The taco has been for sale for 3 weeks, with little feedback. I don't have lab today, plus I made some money this week, so I decide to get drunk to celebrate (what I don't know, but I'm drunk anyway so :flipoff2: ) Well, some guy from arkansas decides he wants the tacoma, and wants to get it tommorow. So my drunk ass has spent most of the day trying to work everything out. Let me tell you, reading a vin # drunk is not easy

eight
09-01-2006, 02:30 PM
Sounds like fun. I will have a beer. I only go to school twice per week.

CRaSHnBuRN
09-01-2006, 02:32 PM
yeah, we don't care about you :flipoff2: So what classes are you taking this semester?

eight
09-01-2006, 02:37 PM
I dont' know I forget. The automation one with tony and the project one with price.

CheapJeep
09-01-2006, 02:46 PM
blah....
Sterling's are held into place with giant spot welded pins. Thanks...

Graystroke
09-01-2006, 05:53 PM
I'd go w/ the 70 also. I have seen one it looks like it has its own skid plate built into the bottom.

CRaSHnBuRN
09-01-2006, 11:14 PM
here is a pic of the D70U

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/181161/fullsize/d70u-4.jpg

Its smooth like that stock

CRaSHnBuRN
09-01-2006, 11:43 PM
Another thing I'm thinking about is an engine swap. I'll run the stock one for a while, but if it should die, I think I'm going to grab a engine from a tacoma. More specifically the 3RZ. Its a I4 engine, that makes quite a bit more hp and torque than the older 22re I have now. They also take very well to power upgrades such as blowers and turbos, and they are readily available with low miles for good prices (last check showed several available with under 50K miles for less than $1000). The nice thing is its nearly a bolt in swap. Using the bellhousing from the donor vehicle, it can be bolted to my stock transmission. The new motor mounts are incredibly simple to make (a plate with 4 holes drilled in it), and most of the accesories use the same fittings and so forth as the old engine. The wiring is the only difficult part, as it is with any engine

Graystroke
09-02-2006, 12:02 AM
question I just thought of...w/ the power upgrade, the super beefy axles, large tires, dana 300/toyota t-case combo...do you think the week link will be the tranny or clutch? I would be afraid that the tranny might just decide to spill its guts if it is loaded up?

CRaSHnBuRN
09-02-2006, 12:43 AM
well, the engine swap is still a pipe dream, and something I'm not gonna worry about until this engine dies. And while it is still alot more powerful than the current engine, its not enough to be a drivetrain killer. Toyota has a tendency to really over engineer stuff, and I think the current tranny will be fine, especially if I rebuild it at some point.

CRaSHnBuRN
09-02-2006, 12:49 AM
I'm keeping my fingers crossed, but it looks like I've got a serious buyer on the tacoma. If the deal goes through, it will be time to start collecting the big parts

CRaSHnBuRN
09-02-2006, 01:05 AM
I found this pic on pirate. He's running a chevy D60 with H2 wheels and 40s. The stance looks just about perfect to me. He says its 81.5 inches wide at the outside of the tires. Do you think the cops will give me hell for the tires sticking out that much?

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=260925&stc=1&d=1156900473

CheapJeep
09-02-2006, 01:19 AM
nice red x?

CRaSHnBuRN
09-02-2006, 01:25 AM
shows up fine here, but let me try linking it a different way

agjohn02
09-02-2006, 01:28 AM
attached... looks killer.

dont think i would DD it though

CRaSHnBuRN
09-02-2006, 01:36 AM
with some milder tires I don't see it being that bad, especially since I don't drive a whole lot. Mostly I just drive to work and back, which is just a few miles round trip, and the occasional trips around town. So other than a few trips home, and the occasional 4x4 trip, it won't see alot of miles. The only thing is if the cops hassle me, but they let those monster truck superdutys get away with it, so I guess I'll see

AggieTJ2007
09-02-2006, 03:37 AM
I think you are crazy, DD and off-raod rig don't go in the same sentence, ask me how I know

eight
09-02-2006, 04:10 AM
I have no picture to look at. Jeep is wider than it supposed to be. No problems with the policias.

stx4wheeler
09-02-2006, 11:39 AM
Hey chris have you thought about keeping the tire size in the 36-37 range. I know your plans are to run one tons, but that size tire range is much more friendly for a daily driver, for power since you only have the 4 banger, i just dont see it being a fun drive to clayton or somewhere with 40's. john brown has 36 on his one tons, beats the crap out of it, with no breakage on axles, i think this will save you money from having to upgrade the axles to keep them daily driver/wheeler status. good luck with selling the taco man.

agjohn02
09-02-2006, 11:42 AM
37" krawlers

CheapJeep
09-02-2006, 12:47 PM
That Yota looks pretty good. Just don't overdo it and it'll be fine as a d.d., 37"s-38"s maybe a touch more. Going up and down hwy. 6 I alway's see superduty's and other stuff with that size or more traveling at highway speeds (granted they aren't "trail rigs"). You've already had rigs at opposite ends up the spectrum, now you just have to find the medium with this one.

Krawler's are great if you have the money, just don't expect to get alot of mileage out of them.

73bronco
09-02-2006, 05:56 PM
I think you are crazy, DD and off-raod rig don't go in the same sentence, ask me how I know

well they do if you dont have a sissy jeep :flipoff2:

AggieTJ2007
09-02-2006, 11:14 PM
how many times has your EB broke and not been driveable?

CRaSHnBuRN
09-03-2006, 12:30 AM
well, we will see how this thing works as a daily driver. As for the tires size thing, I haven't made up my mind either way yet. I think with anything smaller than 37s, the axles will become rock anchors. Right now, I'm leaning towards the 38x14.5 Toyo Open Country M/T

http://www.4wheelparts.com/4wp/images/imagebank/Toyo/opencountry_MT_b.jpg

price wise, they're one of the cheapest ones out there, plus from my research, they seem to wear very well and ride nice. The only problem, is its not available in a 17 inch wheel, only a 16 or 18.

agjohn02
09-03-2006, 12:35 AM
Mongo like cookies! go iroks!

DRAGOONRANCH
09-03-2006, 12:42 AM
Mongo like cookies! go iroks!

Just dont let Mongo get near the beans again.
http://www.thefuselage.com/Threaded/images/smilies/Angry/blowup.gif

CRaSHnBuRN
09-03-2006, 12:48 AM
I've thought about the 39.5 in IROKs, but I bet they wear really fast

agjohn02
09-03-2006, 12:53 AM
i bet they do too

CRaSHnBuRN
09-03-2006, 01:31 AM
okay, lets step away from the tire and axle stuff for a while, and talk about some of the easier mods I want to do first.

To begin, like I said earlier, I would like to do a flat belly if possible. In order to make it easier, I think I'm going to do a small bodylift, like 1 inch or so. This will also make it easier to attach sliders and stuff.

As for my rocksliders, I'm going to build something like this

http://www.offroadsolutions.com/images/products/tacoma/onground3.jpg

CRaSHnBuRN
09-03-2006, 01:35 AM
As for my bumpers, I have the rear designed in my mind, but I'm still trying to work something out on the front. Both the rear bumpers and sliders will be square tubing, so I don't know if I should stick with that for the front, or go round.

CheapJeep
09-03-2006, 01:53 AM
Slider's look like a relatively simple design, pretty straight forward. As for the front I'd assume that you'd want to incorporate D-ring mount's, maybe a couple of light tab's, and winch mount. I personally like the way some of the round tube bumper's look, square tube looks kinda Altoish I guess. Have you considered a wrap around tube rear bumper?

CRaSHnBuRN
09-03-2006, 02:54 AM
Here is something else that I'm trying to make a decision on. What do I do with the interior? I'm going to strip the carpet out, and replace the front seats with some nice suspension seats. I also plan on putting a good rollcage in as well. But what to do with the rear area? Do I leave the rear seat, and build the cage to protect it? Or ditch it, and replace it with a large storage area for tools and spares? I don't plan on really needing more than the 2 seats, and I could use as much room as I can get in the rear for a fullsize spare, tools, ice chests, and maybe a fuel cell (the stock tank location hangs down real low).

CRaSHnBuRN
09-03-2006, 02:56 AM
my idea for the rear bumper does wrap around and protects the sides

CRaSHnBuRN
09-03-2006, 03:17 AM
another question I have is this. What to do about the top. The stock hardtop is big and heavy, is kinda hard to see out of, and easily damaged. but without it, I have little protection from the weather. I've been trying to think of ways to get rid of it, but still keep the thing semi weather proof.

One option is some sort of full soft top. Those are nice (but expensive), and I can take them off when the weather is nice (much easier to store than the hard top).

Or another idea I had was to see if I could have a custom top built that basically closes up the back of the cab section, so the 4runner now looks like a truck. I think it would be simple to have a boat shop or someplace similar build. Plus it would be lightwieght, and easily removed and stored on the vehicle when I don't need it. Granted, it wouldn't protect the back seats, but I'm thinking of ditching them anyway. The only other thing two things would be how to keep water from coming in at the bottom, and what to do about where the rollcage needs to come through it. The water thing could be stopped with a small piece of angle iron, that would also be used as the bottom mounting point, but the rollcage thing still has me stumped. I'm wonder if it would be possible for the top to wrap around the tubes and effectively seal things up?

CRaSHnBuRN
09-03-2006, 03:44 AM
here is a quick drawing of what I mean about the custom top

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album225/top.jpg

one reason I like this idea is it allows me to mod the rear area to fit my needs better. For one, with this setup I could ditch the tailgate, and mount a fullsize spare flat in the bed, slightly hanging out the back. I could also notch the floor to run my rear shocks straight up, and I wouldn't have to worry about gas fumes if I moved the tank into the back

oh yeah, if I did it this way I would probaly bob the thing. Does any see this thing quickly turning into a trainwreck? :D But I figure its better to plan ahead so one mod doesn't get in the way of another and cost me more money

eight
09-03-2006, 08:04 AM
Those toyos are a great highway tire. My little brother wanted to put them on his new truck but they're not made in 20s. I don't think anybody's used them offroad yet so you would be unique in that. They look like they would do well.

Giving up the hardtop gives up your security, people will steal whatever you leave in there.

Go with square tube on the front. Do some fancy notching and bending to make it match.

CRaSHnBuRN
09-03-2006, 08:30 AM
I plan on making everything as secure as possible anyway, just to keep people from messing with it. While the toyos haven't been used widely offroad yet, its quickly gaining a rep as being one of the best on and off road tires on the market. I hear they do well on all kinds of terrain, including mud and sand, and wear like rocks, yet are very grippy on the rocks. I researched these alot back when I swapped tires on the buggy, and noticed alot of comp guys are using them. I may give them a try because at 300 bucks a tire for a 38x14.5r16, they are one of the lowest priced tires in that size range on the market right now

muddyjack
09-03-2006, 11:21 AM
This guy does most of the comps for my buddy's shop. He is runnung the 35" toyos and makes everything look easy. I think those tires would be a good choice for what you are doing.

agjohn02
09-03-2006, 11:47 AM
As for my rocksliders, I'm going to build something like this

http://www.offroadsolutions.com/images/products/tacoma/onground3.jpg


i know where there is a set just like that. just been sitting there for quite a while...

Graystroke
09-03-2006, 12:57 PM
but the rollcage thing still has me stumped. I'm wonder if it would be possible for the top to wrap around the tubes and effectively seal things up?


yes, check out defender 90's the cage goes through the top

eight
09-03-2006, 01:12 PM
A boat canvas place should be able to handle that, most new boats have roll cages now.

CRaSHnBuRN
09-03-2006, 11:48 PM
i know where there is a set just like that. just been sitting there for quite a while...

is that the set you built a year or so ago for the scout?

agjohn02
09-04-2006, 12:47 AM
no, those went on the scout when i built them.

im talking abouy eric's that have been in the floor of the shop for months.

CRaSHnBuRN
09-04-2006, 01:28 AM
aww hell, thats normal for eric. We bent up the tubes for his flatbed last january or so, and they still haven't been installed.


speaking of, where the hell is he? He should of gotten the internet by now.

CRaSHnBuRN
09-04-2006, 05:41 AM
One question on the D300. I keep seeing where people suggest swapping in the bigger rear output. But when you do this, do you need to change out to a bigger yolk?

eight
09-04-2006, 10:34 AM
Yes the bigger output has a bigger splined area with more splines. I think stock is 27 spline and the upgrade is 32. I haven't seen anyone break a stock one, but I'm sure it's been done. May not be a bad idea since you'll be using it as the second case, but with the little motor you probably don't have to worry about it. I likely put more torque through mine than you will. I've got 17.4 reduction in front of it while you'll have about 24, but jeep's motor has much more torque. If you think you could break the pinion on a d44, then you could break the output on the d300, they're the same size.

CRaSHnBuRN
09-04-2006, 11:21 PM
okay, good info to know. I'm trying to figure out if its worth doing the D300 case or just sticking with dual toy cases. The toy case setup would cost less, as the t-case is cheaper, as is the adapter. Plus I don't need to source the flanges to run the toyota driveshafts, and the shifter is easier to route. The D300 costs more, and requires a fair amount more work, but is clockable, and allows true twin stick/front dig which is what I'm after. As for the rear output, recent talk on pirate had me wondering if the d300 output was really failure prone.

eight
09-04-2006, 11:34 PM
I think alot of people on pirate upgrade it just so others will think they are cool, but that goes for alot of stuff on that board.

CRaSHnBuRN
09-04-2006, 11:42 PM
yeah it does

CRaSHnBuRN
09-05-2006, 06:37 AM
okay, I guess the first step on this thing is fixing up the interior, or more importantly, gutting it. One thing I need to figure out is what seats to go with. From our discussion here, and research on the internet, I think I'm going with beards or PRPs. http://www.redart.com/ http://www.prpseats.com/suspension-seats.html PRPs were better priced for the most part, but with my size I think I would need the wider version, which cost a little more. Then I found these beards. http://bcbroncos.com/store/images/images_big/Sportster%20HB.jpg
They look like they would work well in a daily driver, and a company here in texas has them listed for a better price then I've found them elsewhere. http://bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=35_100&products_id=705 Plus I could possibly pick them up to save on shipping. Anyone ever heard of this BC Broncos?

Graystroke
09-05-2006, 07:53 AM
never heard of them, but I bet shipping would be cheaper unless you just hapened to be out there in the area...

eight
09-05-2006, 09:20 AM
you also get about $40 of tax on them

CRaSHnBuRN
09-05-2006, 09:24 AM
true about the tax thing. I may just get the prps, and order one wide seat for my big ass

bburris
09-05-2006, 09:33 AM
Tax offsets the savings on shipping, but you're helping out a Texas company. I think wide seats are in my future as well...

Graystroke
09-05-2006, 09:52 AM
that place is 250+ miles from College Station. 500 miles RT. If he drives the 4runner @ 19 mpg that's $71 in fuel plus a whole day driving. not worth driving there IMO. Just call them up and ask if they will come off the price some b/c you are a texas customer and you have to pay tax. if they balk, buy it somewhere else.

CRaSHnBuRN
09-10-2006, 09:59 AM
okay, since I have today off, but can't go to 47 this afternoon (medical reasons), I decided to take a little time and mess around with the 4runner this morning. I confirmed that it had been hit in the rear. I kinda figured something like this had happened since it had that wierd chrome bumper on back. The rear frame rails past the shackle are a little messed up, but the damage isn't to bad. It does present a small problem, as it common to move the rear hangers back to mount longer springs. It can still be done, but will take more work. Or I may try to stick to my plan of linking the rear. I want to do that anyway, but have been leary of the cost and how it will handle on the street

CRaSHnBuRN
09-10-2006, 10:05 AM
I also began stripping the interior, and I think I can reuse my stock sliders with some aftermarket seats. In my old truck I just used some tubing to mount to, but this was alot of work, and couldn't be adjusted. I hope to order the new seats this week.

I'm also trying to figure out if I should go with a internal cage, or a exo. I don't really care for how exos look, plus they hurt gas mileage. But a internal cage takes up alot of room in a already cramped cab

fbronco86
09-10-2006, 02:53 PM
okay, I guess the first step on this thing is fixing up the interior, or more importantly, gutting it. One thing I need to figure out is what seats to go with. From our discussion here, and research on the internet, I think I'm going with beards or PRPs. http://www.redart.com/ http://www.prpseats.com/suspension-seats.html PRPs were better priced for the most part, but with my size I think I would need the wider version, which cost a little more. Then I found these beards. http://bcbroncos.com/store/images/images_big/Sportster%20HB.jpg
They look like they would work well in a daily driver, and a company here in texas has them listed for a better price then I've found them elsewhere. http://bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=35_100&products_id=705 Plus I could possibly pick them up to save on shipping. Anyone ever heard of this BC Broncos?


They built my custom 24 gallon gas tank for my bronco. It was pretty nice.

uglyota
09-10-2006, 03:12 PM
okay, lets step away from the tire and axle stuff for a while, and talk about some of the easier mods I want to do first.

To begin, like I said earlier, I would like to do a flat belly if possible. In order to make it easier, I think I'm going to do a small bodylift, like 1 inch or so. This will also make it easier to attach sliders and stuff.

As for my rocksliders, I'm going to build something like this

http://www.offroadsolutions.com/images/products/tacoma/onground3.jpg
son of a ...
John you sold them my idea, didn't you, you barstid!

CRaSHnBuRN
09-10-2006, 04:04 PM
haha, I had this same idea for a while now (its just so simple), and was surprised to see someone selling it, especially for what they want for the one in the picture (they want like 300 bucks for those things). They gotta be nuts

agjohn02
09-10-2006, 07:41 PM
if eric can build them, anyone can

uglyota
09-11-2006, 08:16 PM
maybe someday I'll become a fabbing badass like you and be able to put a chevy drivetrain in a scout :rolleyes:

oh, I see you "wheeled" yesterday...that explains it

agjohn02
09-11-2006, 08:20 PM
crap. i forgot the flipoff dude and eric got mad. you need to spend more time on here, you're getting soft.

CRaSHnBuRN
10-04-2006, 12:38 PM
well, the taco sold today for cash. So I took some of the money left after paying it off and bought a D60. Now its time to start collecting the rest of the stuff I'll need. I'm aiming to do the SAS during the christmas holidays, though there is always the chance I may try to do it sooner

JeepPhisherman
10-04-2006, 04:08 PM
Good, we can practice on yours before we get around to mine.

CRaSHnBuRN
10-04-2006, 06:49 PM
you can help if you want, but since I won't get around to it until around christmas, I'm gonna leave my tools at my parents house. It just easier than hauling them back and forth, especially since my parts pile and everything else is there. That cool?

JeepPhisherman
10-04-2006, 09:37 PM
Man, you're killing me.

I was all prepared to have a welder in the garage, but I guess that's cool. Any chance of getting that welder up here when its my time under the knife?

CRaSHnBuRN
10-05-2006, 08:59 AM
probaly so, but I thought you weren't planning on doing yours for a long time?

JeepPhisherman
10-05-2006, 06:06 PM
Yea, I wasn't, but I think I've decided to stay stateside post-graduation, so I'm slowing getting back on the ball with collecting pieces and whatnot. All I'm lacking now is steering, suspension, and some steel.

CRaSHnBuRN
10-06-2006, 12:27 AM
well when do you think you would want to do it? I just figured leaving stuff at my parents worked well for me because of the weird schedule I have (they're in the country, so I can work early in the morning, or really late at night if I want). Plus, if something doesn't go as planned, I can always steal my dads tacoma for a few days until I can get back to working on the 4runner

JeepPhisherman
10-06-2006, 12:35 AM
It's cool if you want to keep the tools at your parent's place, whatever works best for you. I'm not too sure of a timeline for the swap for me yet. It's still some time off, earliest would probably be near the end of the winter break.

Where do your parents live?

AggieTJ2007
10-06-2006, 09:33 AM
if you were smart you would offer to keep his tools in your garage

JeepPhisherman
10-06-2006, 12:24 PM
pay more attention

CRaSHnBuRN
10-06-2006, 12:35 PM
if you were smart you would offer to keep his tools in your garage

that was the original plan, but I decided to keep my tools at home at least until the end of semester, since I never seem to have any free time anyway.

And garrett, my parents live about an hour from here. I still may bring the tools up during the christmas break, or even at the end of it when I'm done with the hard stuff. Its just I got to thinking about how hard it can be to work together on schedules in order to get a chance to go out there and work when you're around, and how if something goes wrong I may be forced to leave the runner until I can fix it. With my parents place, I can work no matter what time or day it is, and I can always steal my dads truck in case of an emergency. Plus I have ways of handling the big stuff like axles and so forth at my parents. I just figure it will be much easier and faster to do the SAS and related stuff at home, then worry about bringing the tools up here later

CRaSHnBuRN
10-10-2006, 01:34 AM
Okay, update time. The taco is gone, so its time to start really collecting parts. The D60 should be here by the end of the week. Still gotta find the time to go hunt down a D70 for the rear.

As for the D60, I went with a dodge one with drive flanges. I'm gonna grab some superwinch hubs for use on mild wheeling, and on the street, and swap back to the flanges for the harder stuff. Both diffs will be welded, hence the need for the locking hubs in the front. Driveshafts will be toy, and with a CV in the rear. I have enough parts now to build spares for both the front and rear. I'll be using high angle flanges instead of yokes on the axle ends

One side effect of the dodge D60 is the fact its already fairly narrow (67.5 WMS), so I'm gonna skip the H2 idea, and just get 16 inch steelies with less backspacing and run the 38x14.5 toyos. I love the H2s, but I think it'll just be to narrow, and the steel wheels and 38s will cost the exact same as h2 wheels and 37s.

CRaSHnBuRN
10-10-2006, 01:46 AM
Next comes steering. I'm getting a steering arm for low crossover from krebs. I guess I'm gonna run TREs since they last longer. Anyone got a cheap source for weld in 7/8"-18 tpi tube adapters? Ballistic Fab has them for around 10 bucks a piece. Anyone know about what the max OD my tie rod can be before I have to worry about it hitting the diff cover in the stock position? And should I just weld some 1/4" strap onto the stock diff covers, or get something stronger? MAD4WD has a pretty good deal on rockcrusher covers going on right now. Around 60 bucks a piece for the ones I need

I'm also gonna run hydro assist. I'm gonna use this ram http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2006101001060313&item=9-4410-08&catname=hydraulic , cut the crosstube off the cylinder end, weld a piece of threaded tube to it, and use a hiem on it. Total price for the ram, hose, fittings, hiem, threaded tube, and hardware will be about 130 bucks

For the supension, the front will be custom leaf spring packs based off my current rear springs, a custom drop hanger, and outboarded shackles. The rear is still not decided on. I wanted to run BBCS shocks, but they are currently back ordered, but polyperformance is running a special on fox shocks, so I may see if I can get them for a similar price

I'm also gonna skip the D300 idea and just run dual toy cases

CRaSHnBuRN
10-10-2006, 01:50 AM
finally, I think I conned the GF into sewing me the soft top idea I had. The material is sunbrella, and its pretty cheap. All I would need is to build a simple frame for it, add the snaps, then get her to sew it up for me. She likes to sew and crochet, and has a big sewing machine, so hopefully that will make it pretty easy. The only thing I still need to find is what the soft clear plastic they use on softops is made of. Anyone know? I'm guessing I'll find it at a boat shop.

Sharpe
10-10-2006, 09:49 AM
As far as the diff cover goes I would look at the Great Lakes offroad covers. They are the ones you see on ebay with the front end loader sitting on them. I shopped around alot before I got my cover and there's was not the thickest or cheapest but it was the best combination of the two. It is 1/4" plate steel (not cast) with a 3/8" flange and was $110 shipped to my door. You should be able to clear a 1 1/2" tierod, maybe even 2" depending on the cover you get.

agjohn02
10-10-2006, 09:53 AM
ruffstuffspecialties.com for diff covers. search for gravelmaker on pirate.

eight
10-10-2006, 11:18 AM
I have a 3/8" thick plate on my diff cover. Tie rod is 1.666" OD. They hit. But I think the tie rod is a little bent, should be. I'm gonna turn it over so it's bent away from the cover.

CRaSHnBuRN
10-11-2006, 07:49 PM
okay, I've got the D70 for the rear, but its a dually, so where do I find disc brake brackets for it?

eight
10-11-2006, 11:30 PM
**** discs. Really, what good are they for? Maybe if you're in mud alot. Other than that they're just a pain.

Reckless
10-11-2006, 11:31 PM
more holding power and easier to change pads.

sasquatch
10-11-2006, 11:38 PM
read somewhere that drums were better than discs in the rear. i'll agree that if gravel gets in the drums (47) then you have to take the drum off and clean the shoes, but other than that, meh

eight
10-11-2006, 11:55 PM
Well my dodge still has original shoes on el d70 and his toyoda will be dead long before it gets that many more miles. Or if it does last that long it'll be kinda a milestone achievement and cause for celebration. You don't think 1 ton drums will lock up 38s? Just one 3/4 ton drum will lock up 2 38s.

CheapJeep
10-11-2006, 11:59 PM
My 1/2 ton 8.8" drums have held up just fine with my 38"s.

Doug Krebs
10-12-2006, 12:15 AM
Still gotta find the time to go hunt down a D70 for the rear.

blah, why a dana 70? I'd get a 14 bolt just for the cheapness of the detroit. I can't imagine wanting to daily drive a welded rear. You become soft after driving something nice.

I always hated the drums when we used to go in rivers. Most of the drums on the older full floaters are pressed in with the lugstuds. Getting the rocks out meant pulling the whole axle shaft and the hub.

CRaSHnBuRN
10-12-2006, 07:29 AM
I went with the D70 for several reasons

1. lower gear available (important for spinning 38s with the 4cyl)
2. there is no flange available for using a toy driveshaft on the 14 bolt
3. I planned on welding it anyway, and 14 bolt detriots are really not that much cheaper
4. 35 spline shafts factory
6. it only cost me 50 bucks, so why not?

CRaSHnBuRN
10-12-2006, 07:33 AM
i never thought of just running drums. How much does it cost to rebuild a set of drums? Everyone always seems to upgrade away from drums as quick as possible and it would shed some weight. Also, because this is a dually would I have to worry about the drums sticking out of the wheel so far they would get smacked on rocks all the time?

stx4wheeler
10-12-2006, 07:51 AM
rebuilding drums is not expensive or hard, i think the shoes are usually around 15-30 bucks, and a hardware kit which is usually needed is 10 or less. So add in getting the drums turned if they need it and you can rebuild the drum brakes for prolly- 60 bucks or so.

CRaSHnBuRN
10-12-2006, 09:06 AM
drums it is then.

CRaSHnBuRN
10-21-2006, 04:57 AM
this place is boring, so I'm gonna add some tech.

Need some bushings for something like spring hangers, suspension links, or other various projects, but don't want to pay 10+ dollars a piece that most places charge for them? Then here you go.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ENS%2D3%2D2124R&N=700+115&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EXP%2D69261&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Just use a piece of 1.75x.120 DOM, or 1.5 Sch 80, and you'll have enough to do 6 sets of bushings with either of these. On the jeep one, it comes with two 1/2 sleeves, and two 9/16 sleeves, or you can use 3/4 inch bolts if you don't want to use the sleeves. Anyone know what size sleeves the chevy ones use?

One note on the second ones, only the procomp bushings use the same size bushings all around. If you order a different brand or part number, two of the six sets will be smaller

tigweld
10-21-2006, 11:54 AM
you can use 3/4 inch bolts if you don't want to use the sleeves.

this is not a good idea, the sleeve is there so u can tighten the bolt down on the bushing without crushing it and u also need unthreaded surface for the bushing to have something smooth to rotate on. They don't last very long with no sleeve either , ask me how I know? :flipoff2:

CRaSHnBuRN
10-21-2006, 02:09 PM
oh, I know to use the sleeve, but in some cases someone may not want or need to, and would like to know the ID of the bushing, so I threw that in there

CRaSHnBuRN
10-21-2006, 02:22 PM
well I finally got a chance to go get my D60 today. Its from a 88 Dodge with drive flanges. I'm gonna do like kopecki and run lockouts (superwinch in my case) on the street and light stuff, and use the flanges for the harder stuff. Its in alot better shape than I thought it would be. I may be able to reuse the brake parts since the discs are still thick, and just have a light coat of surface rust. The pads are pretty thick as well. I'll post pics later and get a consensus if they are usable or not. The studs that are used in place of u-bolts by the diff are missing though. Where can I get these cheap? And this thing has a pretty beefy tie rod as well. I'll keep it around for a spare I think

CRaSHnBuRN
10-21-2006, 02:23 PM
btw, I heard there is a lifetime warranty on superwinch hubs. Anyone know if this is true?

JeepPhisherman
10-21-2006, 05:20 PM
Haven't heard that, but I steered shy of them. There were quite a few people on the TTORA boards who had trouble with them in their 44's and 60's, so I just went with the Warn standards. Found them for like $55 shipped off of ebay, and I should still have the sellers name if you're interested.

CRaSHnBuRN
10-22-2006, 04:39 PM
well, I would worry if I was planning on using them on the hard stuff, but since I have drive flanges for that, I could care less if they were high quality or not. I just want to know if I can warranty them out when (not if) I kill them. As for you seller, yeah, I would like to know, but i doubt he'll have a good deal on warn external hubs, since they go for more than 200 bucks normally

CRaSHnBuRN
10-22-2006, 04:52 PM
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album225/100_0409.sized.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album225/100_0411.sized.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album225/100_0412.sized.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album225/100_0413.sized.jpg

CRaSHnBuRN
10-22-2006, 04:54 PM
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album225/100_0414.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album225/100_0415.sized.jpg

CheapJeep
10-22-2006, 05:17 PM
Nice, now find me a dodge 60 too.

JeepPhisherman
10-22-2006, 05:34 PM
Looks just like my axle... except bigger. My rotors are in the same condition, and I was planning on having them turned, guys at the parts store thought they would be aight.

uglyota
10-22-2006, 10:32 PM
this is getting out of control quick. Axle looks like a runner, and a good deal.

Now take it to Bryan Iron and Metal and get your $50 back before that 4runner is reduced to a pile of parts with no hope of ever running again :flipoff2:

CRaSHnBuRN
10-22-2006, 11:21 PM
I think the 4runner will continue to run, no matter what. Now if its driveable will be a whole different question.

As for the axle, I got it from extreme axle sales on pirate when he ran a sale a few weeks ago. I still cost me less to have it shipped then what people have been asking for the D60s that I've seen for sale around here.

As for the brakes, I think I'm gonna run them. I still need to check the bearings, kingpins, and make sure the calipers are in good shape, but I don't think its gonna take much work to be useable.

I should also be getting my bodylift and hopefully getting it installed this week. Then its on to the sliders and other armor, then begin prepping the thing for the SAS

CRaSHnBuRN
10-23-2006, 01:03 AM
okay, one thing I want to discuss is a rear linked suspension for this thing.

I plan on using TJ coils, poly bushings at the frame, and Johnny joints at the axle. Other than this basic plan, I'm still trying to figure out what design to use. Of course, since this is a daily driver, it will need to work well on the street, with no wierd handling characteristics.

One problem I face is the gas tank. It sits on the inside or the passenger side framerail right where the upper link mount would need to be on most types of suspensions. It also hangs down pretty low. I'm going to do a bodylift, and it would most likely not be that hard to lift it to match, giving a little more clearence. I could also move it, or replace it with a fuel cell, but both of these have thier drawbacks as well, and will cost quite a bit more.

EDIT: one thing I just thought of. If my lower links are long enough, and mount below the frame, they'll probally hit before the tank does after I lift it. I'll still smack the tank alot I bet, but a good beefy skid plate would help that

CRaSHnBuRN
10-23-2006, 01:48 AM
okay, here is a list of links with the good and bad of each (at least to my knowledge)

Dual triangulated 4 link (XX): good handling, little rear steer during flex, favorite of the sheeples on pirate, fairly involved to build, requires removal of gas tank

Single triangulated 4 link (|V|): has some flex steer, easier to set up than above, requires removal of tank

Wishbone 3 link (|V|): similar to above, probally a little easier to build since the way all the upper link ends line up perpendicular to frame. Failure of wishbone could be bad, require removal of tank

Offset wishbone (|\||): same as above, but the upper link is effectively halved, allowing the gas tank to remain. Wishbone upper bushing must be stiff (like delrin) to keep axle from moving sideways and killing the gas tank (I may post a pic of this one since I've only seen it on a few toys)

3 link with panhard: 3 straight links (2 lower, 1 upper), plus a panhard. This is the one I know the least about, yet seems pretty popular. Allows the gas tank to remain, seems pretty simple and quick to build (parts like hangers can be prefabbed since there are no angles to figure out). I do have some questions about it though. The upper would have to be on the driver side, so how will the torque affect this? Do I try to mount it near the frame, or more towards the center (or does it really make no difference and just go with whatever is easiest). How do you setup a panhard, does it need to be parallel to the ground? I'm guessing this one has a fair amount of rear steer, but would one side do it more than the other since the upper isn't centered, or does the panhard stop that?

eight
10-23-2006, 12:56 PM
I don't see how the dual triangulated is any harder to build than the single traingulated. The only difference is that the lowers are closer together. Well, you'd have to build a crossmember to mount the lowers to instead of just mounting to the frame.

I don't like the idea of an offset wishbone.

If I were to build another rear suspension it would be a 3 link with a panhard. I get the driver side front lifting under power and really don't like that. You get the same thing with leaf springs. With the 3 link you can eliminate that by placing the upper in the right place. I'll have to think about it to remember what side it should be on.

tigweld
10-23-2006, 02:35 PM
rear depends on the pinion offset but it ends up about the opposite of the pinion to centerline distance give or take

uglyota
10-23-2006, 09:58 PM
yes I think offset wishbones have to be burly to work. There's an E-350 or something with a gas tank that fits under a runner like stock with like 1" below the framerails

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=484247&highlight=van+gas+tank

CRaSHnBuRN
10-23-2006, 11:19 PM
I think I heard that on the 3 link with panhard that its better to have the top link on the passenger side, but it will need to be on the driverside in my case. I did see the equation for figuring it at one point, but I have to go find it back. Does anyone think it will really make that much of a difference in a vehicle as underpowered as mine? I normally prefer to crawl things then use the skinny pedal. I just don't want the thing doing the torque roll I've seen some vehicles have when they give it gas on an obstacle and nearly end up on thier side.

would this hiem be strong enough for the panhard, or should I go with something more expensive http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?CP=1&part=SUM-XMAX10T&N=700%200&Ntt=SUM~XMAX10T%20or%20SUM~MAX12T%20or%20SUM~MAX12 %20or%20SUM~XMAX10&Ntk=&rsview=sku&Ns=

CRaSHnBuRN
10-23-2006, 11:24 PM
yes I think offset wishbones have to be burly to work. There's an E-350 or something with a gas tank that fits under a runner like stock with like 1" below the framerails

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=484247&highlight=van+gas+tank

yeah, I followed this thread as well. A blazer tank may also work, and I can get those for 25 bucks new. But at this point I have so much planned I doubt I will get to everything, or be able to afford it. So if I can get away with leaving the gas tank there for now, and not detrimentally affect my performance, I would like to.

AggieTJ2007
10-23-2006, 11:28 PM
you should jus tpay me to build you a custom aluminum tank

CRaSHnBuRN
10-24-2006, 01:53 AM
so, any one have any info on how to do the panhard bar? I know when you do it on the front, you should try to match it to the draglink, but are there any design parameters for the rear? Keep it parrallel to the ground? Try to make it as long as possible? Does it matter which side it mounts on?

tigweld
10-24-2006, 07:21 AM
I think I heard that on the 3 link with panhard that its better to have the top link on the passenger side, but it will need to be on the driverside in my case. I did see the equation for figuring it at one point, but I have to go find it back. Does anyone think it will really make that much of a difference in a vehicle as underpowered as mine? I normally prefer to crawl things then use the skinny pedal. I just don't want the thing doing the torque roll I've seen some vehicles have when they give it gas on an obstacle and nearly end up on thier side.

would this hiem be strong enough for the panhard, or should I go with something more expensive http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?CP=1&part=SUM-XMAX10T&N=700%200&Ntt=SUM~XMAX10T%20or%20SUM~MAX12T%20or%20SUM~MAX12 %20or%20SUM~XMAX10&Ntk=&rsview=sku&Ns=

I have read the offset is not as important on a rear sus. because the pinion is usually centered making the offset distance very small. The panhard heim really doesn't have to be that big all it is doing is centering the rearend, look how chintzy factory panhard rods are and they hold up. fwiw I used small rubicon express joints, the same one they include for all their kits with panhard bars

tigweld
10-24-2006, 07:39 AM
so, any one have any info on how to do the panhard bar? I know when you do it on the front, you should try to match it to the draglink, but are there any design parameters for the rear? Keep it parrallel to the ground? Try to make it as long as possible?

I would not match the front. make it as long as posible(mine is 2" from the tire on both sides like 45"+ ) to smooth the arc it travels to reduce rearsteer and make it level while the suspesion is at middle of it's travel if possible . if you do this usually the frame end will be lower putting the panhard in tension during jounce which will be more forgiving on the bar and mount design. having the bar go from driver frame to pass. axle will put the panhard in tension when torque is applied.

CRaSHnBuRN
10-24-2006, 09:41 AM
do you have any pics of yours?

eight
10-24-2006, 10:25 AM
I wrote this up yesterday but the power died before I hit the button.

OK lets me think about it. The antisquat is applied on the side that the upper is on. I get the driver side front lifting so the passenger side rear must be squatting. So, you want to put the upper on the passenger side. If you put it on the wrong side it will just make the torque roll worse.

You can triangulate the lowers on a 3 link to cut down on rear steer. I once modeled it to find how much would eliminate all the rear steer. Just don't make a wishbone out of it. Maybe go a foot narrower at the frame end than the axle end. Or really you would just mount the frame end under the frame and the axle ends as wide as possible.

I used a small amount of triangulation on my front but that was more because I had to mount the axle ends wide enough to work with the diff, and then had to angle them in to the frame end so they wouldn't rub the tire when turning. My frame end is mounted slightly in of the center of the frame.

I allready told you what suspension I'd go with on the rear of that thing. Solves all your upper link/gas tank problems and provides a gas tank skid. The worst drawback I see to it is all the **** talking you would get. Just make it as long as possible.

CRaSHnBuRN
10-24-2006, 12:36 PM
I forgot which one you suggested, it wasn't a 1 link was it? If so, no way, those things are just to ghetto

CRaSHnBuRN
10-24-2006, 12:39 PM
BTW, the PBB was actually good for something today. I decided I didn't feel like going to class today, and hit the yards today. Didn't find much, but I got this big remote power steering reservior from a isuzu rodeo for free. Looks like it will be perfect for when I put on hydro assist. I'll post up pics of later

eight
10-24-2006, 12:42 PM
Yep, 1 link. You don't have to do it all ghetto like. Use a jimmy joint instead of a trailer ball and hitch.

CRaSHnBuRN
10-24-2006, 12:44 PM
nah, I think I'll stick with multiple links. If it was trail only, maybe, but I just don't like the idea for a street driven truck

BMFScout
10-24-2006, 12:57 PM
search newb!!

http://tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=6118&page=5&pp=15&highlight=teasers

page 5, I think you and St. John have the same vision. Street driven badass.

Shaggy
10-24-2006, 01:02 PM
speaking of St. John how is that thing coming?

CRaSHnBuRN
10-24-2006, 01:03 PM
nope, my vision is street driven clusterfawk :flipoff2:

As for those pics, you know I scanned through that thread kinda quickly one time, but only remembered seeing the photo chopped "spy pics"

BMFScout
10-24-2006, 01:09 PM
His is on hold so his cousin and him can buid a chevy powered drag mustang.

Shaggy
10-24-2006, 01:11 PM
cool

tigweld
10-24-2006, 01:27 PM
was gonna be a quicky mustang build, but the sawsall got out.

Shaggy
10-24-2006, 01:31 PM
***

CRaSHnBuRN
10-27-2006, 02:41 AM
I still need a source for the studs that you use in place of the U-bolt on the diff. If nothing else, does someone know the thread pattern? As for u-bolts, where do I get them? That gooseneck trailer place?

CRaSHnBuRN
10-27-2006, 02:45 AM
does anyone have a link to a writeup about disassembling a D60, and what tools are needed? I know its a newbie question, but this will be the first domestic axle I've torn apart. Do I need any special tools (heard something about a hub socket)?

And how do I gauge if my kingpins are in need of a rebuild or not? Just rebuild them anyway?

sasquatch
10-27-2006, 10:37 AM
wasn't there a billavista one on pirate?

agjohn02
10-27-2006, 10:43 AM
doesnt cover disassembly.

just start taking bolts off. it'll come apart. you have to use a chisel or the sort to get the kingpin out.

Sharpe
10-27-2006, 01:32 PM
I think the D60 studs are made by skyjacker, if thats not it its deffinately some lift kit company. IIRC the threads are just 5/8 coarse thread anyway so if you can find some high grade all-thread it'd probably work. As far as taking the 60 apart, just start unbolting ****, disassembly is the easy part. To get the spindle nut off you can either use the correct socket, or you can just use a screwdriver or chisel and hammer them off. To take the kingpins out you need a 7/8" alan key and a very balsy impact or a 6 or 7 foot cheater bar because they are installed with 6-700 ft-lbs of torque.

JeepPhisherman
10-27-2006, 02:16 PM
I've got the spindle nut socket for a 44, don't know if they're different for a 1 ton or 3/4 ton or whatever though.
I got one side off using a screwdrive/chisel, but the other side was being stubborn and I didn't want to **** up the nut, so I shelled out the $10.

I've also heard of people using 2" pvc and dremeling it to make the notches. That would deffinitely be cheaper than buying the socket.

agjohn02
10-27-2006, 05:22 PM
To take the kingpins out you need a 7/8" alan key and a very balsy impact or a 6 or 7 foot cheater bar because they are installed with 6-700 ft-lbs of torque.


thats the cone. i was talking about the kingpin cap on the bottom.

Doug Krebs
10-27-2006, 08:28 PM
thats the cone. i was talking about the kingpin cap on the bottom.

I gots that allen wrench... if you need to disassemble the cone bring it over, I've got the perfect two trees to hold it.

JeepPhisherman
10-28-2006, 11:58 AM
One of my buddies has 2 multipliers, maybe those could work.
Never seen one before last night when I was rumaging around in his shop, hell never even heard of one, but they looked badarse.

DRAGOONRANCH
10-28-2006, 12:56 PM
Are you talkin about the 1" multipliers, then yes they are super bad arse. We use them on trackhoe turn tables and dozer undercarriages. The one we used to have quadrupled the torque, and we would still put an 8 or 9 foot cheater on it.

JeepPhisherman
10-28-2006, 01:26 PM
Are you talkin about the 1" multipliers, then yes they are super bad arse. We use them on trackhoe turn tables and dozer undercarriages. The one we used to have quadrupled the torque, and we would still put an 8 or 9 foot cheater on it.

Yea, it was weird. He had two, the first one was slightly smaller, I think 1/2" in and something a little larger out? Then the other one was about 50% wider and had the same larger size in, then the 1" out. Both of them multiplied by 4, so if using both, you get 16x the torque :gigem:
He told me he priced them a few years back and couldnt find one of quality like his for less than $2200. I tried to slip one into the cabinet I stole from him....

DRAGOONRANCH
10-28-2006, 02:00 PM
I just saw some when lookin for torque wrenches for cox, and that is about right on the price. May be able to get them off the snap-on truck a little cheaper if you are a "good" customer.

CRaSHnBuRN
10-28-2006, 02:56 PM
do you have pics of this thing you speak of?

DRAGOONRANCH
10-28-2006, 03:05 PM
do you have pics of this thing you speak of?
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=8790&group_ID=978&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

DRAGOONRANCH
10-28-2006, 03:11 PM
While we are on the subject of axles, what center do the hummers use. I know where one is sitting, and was thinking of going to get it and tear it apart for informational purposes.

TexTJ209
10-28-2006, 03:37 PM
I don't know if its true or not, but I heard they use AMC20 centers.

CRaSHnBuRN
10-29-2006, 07:46 AM
should I run a locker in the back, or weld it? I had planned on welding it, but I keep reading that a welded rear and a link suspension causes alot of handling issues.

And as far as lockers go, does anyone know much about whats available for the D70? I have found lockrights, detriots, and selectable lockers like ARB. Right now I'm trying to figure something out about the D70. It appears that there are 2 versions available for the 35 spline shafts, one is a full case, the other is like a 14 bolt detriot and reuses the old case. The only thing I can't find info on is if you can only use certian ones in certian D70s, or if its your choice on which one you want to use.

tigweld
10-29-2006, 10:22 AM
I don't know if its true or not, but I heard they use AMC20 centers.

this is true the only difference is the gears are heat treated differently, I was told this by a hummer tech while I was pickin' parts up for ours. that makes me wonder, the alpha had a selectable locker option wonder what it is, an e-locker like the h2's or a arb type deal.

DRAGOONRANCH
10-29-2006, 11:03 AM
Would they be using reverse cut gears due to the portals?

eight
10-29-2006, 05:51 PM
I didn't notice any funny handling issues when I linked the rear. I did notice that the tires did more of a squeal in turns instead of the chirping with the leafs.

tigweld
10-30-2006, 01:05 PM
Would they be using reverse cut gears due to the portals?

reverse cut has nothing to do with the rotation, the pinion is still on the same side and rotates the same direction( except in this app. where the whole thing is flipped putting the pinion on the opposite side) , It should be called reverse spiral, it is the opposite angle of the gear mesh making the tow side the drive side instead of the heal side like in most low pinion fronts.

agjohn02
10-30-2006, 01:48 PM
you mean the coast side is actually the coast side and the drive side is actually the drive side?

tigweld
10-30-2006, 02:02 PM
coast and drive are relative to which end f/r right?, heal toe seems more fitting but yes if you wanna look at it like that

agjohn02
10-30-2006, 06:01 PM
the concave side is always called the coast side and the convex side is the drive. toe and heel refer to the inside (ID of the ring gear) and outside(OD of the ring gear) of the tooth respectively. root and top land are the top and bottom of the tooth as viewed from a profile view of the tooth itself.

JeepPhisherman
10-30-2006, 08:35 PM
While we are on the subject of axles, what center do the hummers use. I know where one is sitting, and was thinking of going to get it and tear it apart for informational purposes.

way to snake his thread ed....

now back on topic, yay tubing

DRAGOONRANCH
10-31-2006, 12:32 AM
You see, I am learning something. ;)

agjohn02
10-31-2006, 01:41 AM
I don't know if its true or not, but I heard they use AMC20 centers.


i dont see why this isnt a good choice. they're stronger than a d44 and with the portal boxes, they arent seeing that much torque.

DRAGOONRANCH
10-31-2006, 04:17 AM
i dont see why this isnt a good choice. they're stronger than a d44 and with the portal boxes, they arent seeing that much torque.

Not to mention they are not seeing that much abuse from the 6.2/6.5 and auto setups either. :eek:

CRaSHnBuRN
10-31-2006, 05:44 AM
okay, enough with the thread snaking, especially for something with no relevance to my thread

CRaSHnBuRN
11-09-2006, 12:47 PM
IWOKS!!!!!!!! :flipoff2:

AggieTJ2007
11-09-2006, 01:04 PM
youse gotz them

CRaSHnBuRN
11-09-2006, 01:42 PM
not yet, but unless something goes wrong they be mine

CRaSHnBuRN
11-11-2006, 03:35 AM
okay, I need to collect some stuff from the parts stores. Where do we have hook ups again? I need some 1 ton TREs, as well as some brake parts for the rear disc setup and some brakelines. Where would be the cheapest place to get this from?

AggieTJ2007
11-11-2006, 03:35 AM
go to ADVANCE

JeepPhisherman
11-11-2006, 11:53 AM
I need stuff too. Would online be cheaper with split shipping?

Who turns rotors for cheap?

CRaSHnBuRN
11-21-2006, 08:38 AM
well ****, the part number I gave for the chevy spring bushings earlier in this thread isn't worth a ****. It shows a full set of bushings in the picture (springs and shackles), and even says shackle bushing is included, but all it is is 2 sets of bushings, instead of the 6 I was expecting. I should have ordered the jeep bushings, at least I would have gotten more for my money


so, does anyone want to do a group order for some stuff from summit? I still need a few more sets of bushings, so I'm gonna have to make another order

CRaSHnBuRN
11-21-2006, 02:52 PM
finally found some new seats for the 4runner. I'll get pics of them once they're mounted and my camera decides to behave

CRaSHnBuRN
11-28-2006, 01:04 AM
side note here. The closets in the efficiency apartments at plantation oaks can easily store four 40 inch IROKS plus two toyota doors with room to spare

CRaSHnBuRN
12-04-2006, 07:02 AM
My seats are mounted, I built the front spring hanger and have most of the stuff I need collected or on order. All I need to pick up are the little stuff from the parts store for my rear discs and steering, and a set of spacers for the front axle. If the adapter shows up in time, I hope to put the reduction part of my dual case setup together over dead days. If I get the rest of my parts in time, I plan on starting the SAS on the 22nd. I still need to buy or borrow a torch. Or I may look into what it would cost to rent a plasma cutter from a equipment rental place. Last week I took the chance on one of those harbor freight porta bands, and I got to say I am very impressed. It made short work of building my front hanger, which is all 3/16 and 1/4 thick tubing

BTW, here is a cool 4runner buildup that is basically mirroring what I have planned for my 4runner. I was planning on cutting the rear of the 4runner off similar to the way he did his (page 7), and after seeing for sure what it looks like, I'm gonna go for it. I'll just need to talk someone like creighton into welding up the sheetmetal for me

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=501518

CRaSHnBuRN
12-11-2006, 03:28 AM
Okay here are my final plans for the 4runner as it sits now. The SAS should start the 22nd.

Front axle - 88 Dodge D60 kingpin, 6.16s, open for now, superwinch hubs for the street, drive flanges for the hard stuff

Rear axle - Ford D70B (35 spline), 6.16s, disc brakes (http://ballisticfabrication.3dcartstores.com/Disk-brake-brackets_c_27-1.html) , welded diff

Steering - Crossover (krebs built arm, 1 ton TREs, 1.5x.25 wall tubing), home built hydro assist using surplus center ram (http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2006121102325706&item=9-4410-08&catname=hydraulic) modified for heims, stock steering box with 1 ton TRE pitman arm insert (http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=55&osCsid=a8452d73da9d0b3f7d41fd2e9716a7b3)

Driveshafts - square tube toy front, CV toy rear heavy wall tubing, custom flanges (http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=52&products_id=980), full set of spares

Front suspension - SAS, custom hanger, stock rear springs mixed with waggy springs, Bilstsien 5125s

Rear Suspension - Ford F150 springs, custom hanger, Bilstien 5125s

Drivetrain - stock toy engine and tranny, dual cases (MC07) (http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/transfercase/pickup_dual.htm) , 126 to 1 crawl ratio

Tires/wheels - 39.5x13.5x17 bias IROKs, H2 wheels

Other - custom t-case crossmember based off of this (http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=35&osCsid=a8452d73da9d0b3f7d41fd2e9716a7b3) , front wheel spacers, Chevy master cylinder with toy booster, 2 inch body lift (http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml) , 2 inch drivetrain lift, 2 inch gas tank lift (hope to move tank eventually), nearly flat belly

CRaSHnBuRN
12-11-2006, 03:51 AM
one thing I still need to figure out is how to set up my rear suspension. I'm gonna use some F150 springs. My current springs are 48" long with a offset center pin (front 20.5"/rear 27.5"). The F150s are 57" (front 25.5"/31.5" rear).

So if I flipped them with the short side to the rear and used my stock shackle hanger and a new front hanger, I would gain 2 inches of wheelbase by my math. This combined with my front axle forward 4 inches would give me a 109 inch wheelbase. But the offset would cause interference with the body, and most likely require extensive cutting, or even outright chopping the rear off (think comp cut). There would also be alot less sheetmetal to leave behind on the trail, and allow me to keep the rig lower slung. While this sounds cool, it also seems like alot of work, and makes it much harder to seal the rear area up in bad weather. An example of what I'm thinking http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=274188&stc=1&d=1164418164


Or I could build new shackle hangers as well, and center them in the wheelwell, keeping the amount of cutting down somewhat, and allow me to keep the hardtop, or at least make it easier to seal the truck from the elements. So what do I do?

eight
12-11-2006, 10:43 AM
Different springs.

JeepPhisherman
12-11-2006, 11:46 AM
Are you buying the center piece for the xmember from fror or are you going to get it made?

CRaSHnBuRN
12-11-2006, 07:22 PM
Different springs.

Huh?

I just bought the FROR center plate since it probally would have been a headache to make and was only 50 bucks with hardware

eight
12-11-2006, 07:29 PM
Something with about that same length as the long side of the stock springs. Isn't there a 56" chevy spring that's centered?

Leaf springs suck anyway. Just build 2 antiwarp bars and a trac bar and set some curly springs between the axle and frame.

CRaSHnBuRN
12-11-2006, 07:37 PM
curly springs can wait until I'm not on a timeline and broke. As for using other springs, why? I got the F150 springs for dirt cheap, they look like they will flex well, and actually decrease my departure angle, no matter how I mount them. The chevy springs may be centered, but what good does that do me? I still have to build all new mounts for them, plus they have more rear over hang

agjohn02
12-11-2006, 07:42 PM
first rule of building a rig, is dont listen to kopecki. second rule of building a rig, is dont listen to kopecki.

CRaSHnBuRN
12-11-2006, 07:47 PM
fawking UPS. I went down to my girlfriends apartment for a few minutes, and when i came back, there was a huge package sitting by my door. Inside where my shocks and dual case adapter. What pisses me off is none of my lights were on, so its obvious no one was home, and the guy just left it sitting there, underneath the apartment walkway lights in plain view of highway 6. How long do you think it would have stayed there if I hadn't come home right away? Plus the box has been seriously mauled like everything else that UPS handles

eight
12-11-2006, 07:54 PM
I was thinking 28" was close to 27.5" so you could reuse the stock shackle hanger.

JeepPhisherman
12-11-2006, 08:57 PM
fawking UPS. I went down to my girlfriends apartment for a few minutes, and when i came back, there was a huge package sitting by my door. Inside where my shocks and dual case adapter. What pisses me off is none of my lights were on, so its obvious no one was home, and the guy just left it sitting there, underneath the apartment walkway lights in plain view of highway 6. How long do you think it would have stayed there if I hadn't come home right away? Plus the box has been seriously mauled like everything else that UPS handles


they don't care about their jobs or the packages they deliver. My buddy in htown just bought a nikon digital slr and they left the $1400 camera, that was marked "Sensitive Electronics", that was supposed to be signature confirmed, sitting on his front porch when it was pouring down rain 2 weeks ago. Thankfully it was all taped up and enclosed in plastic, cause the box was a mess when he got home.

colman
12-11-2006, 09:59 PM
do you already have the h2's cause i have a set for sale in my garage

CRaSHnBuRN
12-11-2006, 11:59 PM
yeah, I picked up a set from sharpe

CRaSHnBuRN
12-28-2006, 03:44 AM
This 4runner is gonna kill me yet. I've cut up several toys of different vintages, several much older and rustier than this one, and have never had as many problems getting bolts loose. I've broken three 3/8 ratchets, and several sockets. At least its all craftsmen, so I can warranty it. I think I'm gonna go to sears tommorow and see if they have a 12mm and 14mm socket for a 1/2 drive ratchet.

CRaSHnBuRN
12-29-2006, 01:26 AM
2 inch body lift and front hanger installed


http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0021.sized.jpg

CRaSHnBuRN
12-29-2006, 01:28 AM
Parked 2 days and a rat has allready tore into my wiring and vacuum lines

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0016.sized.jpg

CRaSHnBuRN
12-29-2006, 01:39 AM
The gas tank on these 4runners hang really low, and therefore takes a real beating. On my old truck, I moved the tank to between the rear frame rails, where its a perfect fit and is tucked up and protected really well. The only problem was I had to lengthen my stock high pressure fuel line. At the time I could not find the barbed metric fittings needed to build my own, so I had Bryan Hoes do it for me. The cost was insane. So once again, I'm considering moving the tank, and spent alot of time looking for the right fittings with no luck. Well I dropped the tank a few days ago, and was shocked to see the barbed fittings I was looking for allready there.

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0015.sized.jpg

CRaSHnBuRN
12-29-2006, 01:44 AM
I have the stock rear suspension torn out, and I'm just waiting on the F150 springs to get here to finish it up. I've also assembled the reduction case for my dual cases, an most of the new crossmember. On saturday I start torching off the front suspension

AggieTJ2007
12-29-2006, 04:08 PM
lets hope you get it together before its time to get back to school. Its always fun working on your DD

Graystroke
12-29-2006, 06:55 PM
I put the fuel pump on in june. I saw that when I put the pump in and thought it was kinda weird. If I remember there was a lot of extra hose too.

CRaSHnBuRN
12-30-2006, 12:14 AM
lets hope you get it together before its time to get back to school. Its always fun working on your DD

yeah yeah, I'm working on it

CRaSHnBuRN
12-30-2006, 12:45 AM
one thing I still have to work out is how to regear this thing. I'm gonna need some help or find someone to do it for me without charging a arm and a leg

robertf03
12-30-2006, 12:47 AM
I think I'm about a week away from buying this
http://www.performanceunlimited.com/cobravalley_tools/gearsetuptool.html

though it doesn't look that hard to make if you already have a dial inidicator

CRaSHnBuRN
01-01-2007, 12:36 AM
crawl box

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0032.sized.jpg

New seats with lots of adjustment

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0043.sized.jpg

CRaSHnBuRN
01-01-2007, 12:41 AM
HP D70 :flipoff2:

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0029.sized.jpg

H2s

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0024.sized.jpg

Iroks 39.5x13.5x17

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0023.sized.jpg

CRaSHnBuRN
01-01-2007, 12:45 AM
abracadabra, IFS gone

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0025.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0049.sized.jpg

Gonna box in the motor mounts when I do the front shock mounts

CRaSHnBuRN
01-01-2007, 01:11 AM
One thing I did differently this time was the bodylift. I never liked them, but in order to run the larger tires and do some of the mods I wanted, one was needed. I went with a 2 inch one from 4crawler. The pucks are made of UHMW, and are substantially larger in OD than the performance accesories ones I pulled off the rolled 4runner I cut up for parts a few years back. I also went with new polyurethane body mounts and heavier hardware in order to beef everything up a little more

All this allows me to tuck the drivetrain further up for better clearence.

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Build-up/100_0041.sized.jpg

I thought I had a better picture to show this, but with no cutting of the floor or tunnel, it looks like I can have a almost flat belly. The t-case mount in the pic will be removed and a FROR type t-case mount will be mounted on the rear of the t-case. The drain plug on the bottom of the case will be replaced with a low profile one.

CRaSHnBuRN
01-01-2007, 01:23 AM
Later this week I have one day to work on this thing again, and hope to hang the front axle then and begin assembling it. I still need to get my steering arm from krebs, and hope my F150 springs make thier way up here before much longer. I see little chance of getting this thing done before school starts, but hope to have it close. I figure a day to reassemble the front axle, a day to install and rebuild the rear axle and suspension, and a day to build the hydro assist and t-case crossmember. Everything I've built and done so far has been done in about 4 days worth of actual work. There is alot of little things I've done that have eaten alot of time, but I'm still going alot closer than I had hoped


BTW, Rigid (home depot) hole saws suck. They get dull just looking at metal. Lennox (lowes) hole saws meanwhile kick ass. Also, Mack bolt and steel has some good prices on drill bits, but thier taps are expensive.

CRaSHnBuRN
01-01-2007, 01:35 AM
A quick tip for anyone trying to use toyota springs for some reason or another. While they are really nice with the military wrap and offset center pin, they have a bushing with a steel outer sleeve which can be a huge pain to remove. The best method is a big press, but most people use a torch burn out the rubber bushing, then cut the sleeve with a sawzall, which is a huge mess and a real pain in the ass. This time I tried something different. I spread the eye of the spring a little by beating a old screwdriver in between the end of the spring. I then used a socket (the OD of a 30mm craftsmen socket perfectly matched the OD of the metal sleeve) and beat the bushing out. Took all of 5 minutes to do both sides. Oh yeah, watch out for that screwdriver as it likes to turn into a high speed projectile

CRaSHnBuRN
01-01-2007, 04:00 AM
I have a question concerning driveshafts. For the front I'm gonna do a square one which is simple enough. As for the rear, if I grind out the welds and remove the tube, the remaining ends are nearly a perfect fit for 2.5 sch40. This would give me a little better than .20 wall thickness, and be cheap to build. Now the problem is balancing it. Some people have had luck by balancing by sticking it in the truck and slowly turning it and making adjustments until its true. I may do this, but I'm open to other ideas on how to do it. Or do you think that driveshaft place on 2818 would balance it if I brought the materials to them?

Also, if I'm using a CV in the rear, I need to point the pinion at the t-case output, correct?

Oh yeah, one last thing. Any suggestions on removing a diff cover? The one on the D70 refuses to budge, and there really isn't a place to get something under the lip of the cover to pry it up

DRAGOONRANCH
01-01-2007, 07:38 AM
I remember somebody telling me not long ago that with a cv, the pinion needs to be with in 11 degrees (IIRC) of the tail shaft. I may be completely wrong on this matter though.

Graystroke
01-01-2007, 05:20 PM
flem, does it measure from the split on the caps? I thought it was better to have kinda like dummy bearings where the tool rode on b/c that was where the measurement was taken. and that the split on the caps was not a precise split, i.e centerline of the bearings.

robertf03
01-01-2007, 05:55 PM
split on the caps. I guess multiple measurements could be done to verify the zero is set to centerline of the bearing, or figure out how much to add/subtract.

CRaSHnBuRN
01-01-2007, 06:03 PM
where are some good write ups on setting gears?

robertf03
01-01-2007, 06:19 PM
look in factory service manuals.
Then check randy's R&P setup for specs.


The rover book has a kick ass set of instructions. search for the RAVE disc and you can probably find it on some norwegian pirated software website.

agjohn02
01-01-2007, 08:41 PM
where are some good write ups on setting gears?


billavista's is pretty good with lots of pics.

CRaSHnBuRN
01-02-2007, 03:57 AM
who here has setup gears before? I'm tempted at trying it myself, but for what these things cost me, I'm worried about screwing it up. I would like to at least get some help doing the rear axle, since it will see more abuse and is needed the most for driving around town. This would at least give me an idea on what to do, and then maybe I could try the D60 myself. I had someone who said he would help me, but haven't heard anything from him in a while, so I don't know if thats off or not. I'm willing to pay in cash or beer for help, or even for the use of some of the specialized tools needed.

If nothing else, is there anyone local who can set these up for a decent price? I've heard of the AAMCO place, and one other, but have heard bad things about both of them.

Sharpe
01-02-2007, 10:20 AM
J&P standard transmission out on 21 reset the gears on my crewcab when I lost a carrier bearing for a decent price.

jerryg79
01-02-2007, 10:26 AM
Search J&P....varying opinions

agjohn02
01-02-2007, 10:32 AM
i went to get some parts from them. very reasonable and nice guys. i changed my mind about them. after all, the only bad reviews i ever read came from austin roberts...nuff said, eh?

jerryg79
01-02-2007, 10:59 AM
i went to get some parts from them. very reasonable and nice guys. i changed my mind about them. after all, the only bad reviews i ever read came from austin roberts...nuff said, eh?

this is true....

mudtoy67
01-02-2007, 11:38 AM
Like Jerry said there are varying opinions. I personally haven't had any problems with J&P. But I have known a few people that did. One friend of mine had them install an ox-locker in his jeep.....he made it to Hwy 6 before the pinion bearings froze because they didn't refill the gear oil. They took care of it though, replaced everything with no hassle. I'd say if you take it to them just get someone else to check it before you use it.

stx4wheeler
01-02-2007, 11:55 AM
had good luck with them in getting some small pars and info when setting the gears in my 60.

Graystroke
01-02-2007, 12:53 PM
richmond gears sells a instructional video

CRaSHnBuRN
01-03-2007, 09:17 PM
built the front spring packs today, hung the front D60, and ****ed up my steering arm (don't ask). Decided to call it quits for the day and get ****ed up. Mission accomplished

uglyota
01-03-2007, 09:41 PM
sweet...
who you gonna call?
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/

CRaSHnBuRN
01-03-2007, 09:48 PM
no, I can fix the problem. Trying to avoid paying out any more money

stx4wheeler
01-04-2007, 01:15 PM
just dont kludge or ghetto-fy the arm to make it work, you must remember this is the steering which is important to you and other motorists on a daily driven vehicle.

CRaSHnBuRN
01-04-2007, 04:21 PM
No, it was just stupidity on my part. I set the arm up to weld on the king pin cap, then got called away to help my dad for a few minutes. While I was away, one of his employees knocked it over, but set it back on the table in a similar position to what it was but upside down (something else that was on the table was on the ground, so I know stuff was knocked off). I came back, and welded it up without noticing it was now flipped. So now I have to cut the cap back off, grind it smooth, and do it all over again, but correctly this time (which means I also need a new cap)

Doug Krebs
01-04-2007, 04:47 PM
No, it was just stupidity on my part. I set the arm up to weld on the king pin cap, then got called away to help my dad for a few minutes. While I was away, one of his employees knocked it over, but set it back on the table in a similar position to what it was but upside down (something else that was on the table was on the ground, so I know stuff was knocked off). I came back, and welded it up without noticing it was now flipped. So now I have to cut the cap back off, grind it smooth, and do it all over again, but correctly this time (which means I also need a new cap)
]

I think I have an old cap you can have if I can find it. I'm cleaning my garage tonight!

CRaSHnBuRN
01-04-2007, 05:10 PM
cool, let me know if you do. The pitman arm puller worked great by the way

agjohn02
01-04-2007, 05:18 PM
]
I'm cleaning my garage tonight!

i call B.S. that'll take more than one night. if you cant find it ive got one.

jerryg79
01-04-2007, 05:35 PM
i call B.S. that'll take more than one night.

Depends if he takes an aderall or not :D

agjohn02
01-05-2007, 11:12 PM
this what you're going for?

TxCruzr
01-05-2007, 11:20 PM
He has those cool air cooled diffs http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/smokin.gif

CRaSHnBuRN
01-06-2007, 12:50 AM
good lord that thing is scary. I sure hope mine doesn't turn out that tall. Does he at least have a V8 kludged together in there?

CheapJeep
01-06-2007, 01:07 AM
If thats the one at cardoc, it's the same guy that wanted to swap me transmissions. I think he said it has a 350 in it.