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colman
10-31-2006, 08:42 PM
Here is Brian's 90 K5 Blazer

Delivered as:
D44 HD front - chromoly shafts, 4.10 gears
D70 rear, detroit locker (uninstalled), 4.10 gears
350 motor
350 trans
35" dunlop mt's on H2 rims
2" body lift installed
front fenders cut to hell
non working warn 12k from a hummer
crappy warn front bumper
poorly attatched but good rear bumper
hard and soft tops
4" front springs and shackle flip brackets uninstalled
doors not installed

Right now:
39.5x1350 iroc's on stock 16" steel rims
installed ORD shackle flip in rear
coribu baja ss seats
5 pt harnesses
ripped rear bumper off (on accident)
installed warn 9.5 winch till 12k is fixed & new bumper made
removed front wheel spacers
front brakes
put doors on with gentle massaging from a hammer

To come:
front 4" springs as soon as bushings get here this week
reworked front bumper-flush mounted with 12k winch (fixed)
rear bumper re attatched and moved in for better departure angles and sliders on rear corners
install uncut front fenders and procede to trim a little
trim rear fenders
sliders
toss rear bench and put stock buckers in place
finish roll cage and tie to frame
install detroit
rear brakes and make e-brake work
new rattle can OD paint job

colman
10-31-2006, 08:48 PM
2nd pic is soon after purchase
1st pic is after i finished rear shackle flip

got one hell of a texas tilt but since the fenders are cut so much i could run it right now.....ish i need to put in the front springs

colman
11-30-2006, 04:42 AM
Progress:
I got the new front springs on. The fenders on and trimmed for now, a little more will be necessary as the springs settle and break in. Decided to keep the rear bench for now till we find a coribu bench for the back. I fixed the 12k winch and mounted it and the warn bumper doesn't look as bad now that it is 8 inches higher off the ground or so.

Necesities left:
extend front driveshaft a few inches
fix rear brake cylinder that blew and go thru rear brakes
install detroit in d70
find and install 4" lift shocks and make new/ fix/ relocate shock mounts
and most importantly do crossover steering and eventually a ram or hydro assist or something of that nature as it doesn't turn right much because of the push pull steering

if someone has the parts sitting around to fix/swap the steering i could get it ready for clayton but if not it will wait till after the new years. i have a 2wd box so i think all i have to do is add a tierod to the traglink but haven't spent a lot of time messing with it

colman
11-30-2006, 04:50 AM
pushpull steering problem

colman
11-30-2006, 04:51 AM
as she sits now

colman
11-30-2006, 04:56 AM
since i took the pleasure of naming it the general i thought it should have at least 1 star so at about 1 the previous morning i added one with duck tape. after the repaint over christmas i think there will be a star on each door and on the hood (in white paint)

Doug Krebs
11-30-2006, 09:45 AM
You need to stock pile 10 bolt shafts. Just the weight of the irok plus the steel rim is making me cringe.

I wouldn't spend money to do crossover steering. By the time you're done with it you'll probably spend at least $200. Put that towards a dana 60. Get a raised steering arm and hope for the best.

fbronco86
11-30-2006, 09:49 AM
You need to stock pile 10 bolt shafts. Just the weight of the irok plus the steel rim is making me cringe.

I wouldn't spend money to do crossover steering. By the time you're done with it you'll probably spend at least $200. Put that towards a dana 60. Get a raised steering arm and hope for the best.

Maybe you should read the first post about the chomoly shafts. :flipoff2:

Dougs just bustings your balls cause his blazer sucks.

Doug Krebs
11-30-2006, 09:53 AM
Maybe you should read the first post about the chomoly shafts. :flipoff2:

Dougs just bustings your balls cause his blazer sucks.

crap! didn't see that. However I still say save for a 60. My 35's wrecked my ball joints at least once a year. Hell the las cruces trip killed my ball joints. I rebuilt that whole axle before hand and had to change out one the ball joints at Mary's ranch in Fort Stockton on the way home.

P.S. Mike's just busting my balls because I get to wheel in 2 weeks :flipoff2:

fbronco86
11-30-2006, 10:56 AM
crap! didn't see that. However I still say save for a 60. My 35's wrecked my ball joints at least once a year. Hell the las cruces trip killed my ball joints. I rebuilt that whole axle before hand and had to change out one the ball joints at Mary's ranch in Fort Stockton on the way home.

P.S. Mike's just busting my balls because I get to wheel in 2 weeks :flipoff2:

I am gonna really try to get my eb to tcc it will look ugly but I think I can make it.

I wanna see how these shafts hold up to those big tires.

Does it have standard ujoints?

colman
11-30-2006, 12:34 PM
as far as i know yes on the u-joints and for the 10th time doug its not a 10 bolt it is a d44 and it is going to get left open due to the large tire size so hopefully it will work out

fbronco86
11-30-2006, 12:42 PM
as far as i know yes on the u-joints and for the 10th time doug its not a 10 bolt it is a d44 and it is going to get left open due to the large tire size so hopefully it will work out

Doug is gonna try to break your balls on this 10 bolt 44 thing.

Might wanna stick a ujoint in your box then. The shafts will probably hold up.

bcolman
02-24-2007, 11:36 PM
i just got my rear bumper back on, now i need to fix my rear driveshaft, steering and the front axle.

JeepPhisherman
02-25-2007, 02:31 AM
Aren't you trying to sell this?

bcolman
02-25-2007, 02:43 PM
yeah, but i broke some stuff when i was out at 47 a few weeks ago, so i have ot fix those things before i sell it

colman
03-01-2007, 09:27 PM
well, heres one for Doug
broke the passenger outer shaft on the 44. anyone have a spare?

past that made a new 1350 rear driveshaft and finished welding the rear bumper and painted it

to do list before next trip or till it can be daily driven/sold with a clear conscience:
fix front outer stub
add shocks
crossover steering
rear brake cylinder
screw in dash
and maybe weld rear axle up

Sharpe
03-02-2007, 07:38 AM
How much lift does it have? I have a crossover tierod for ~8" of lift if you need it. Its from ORD and is the bent style to clear the factory engine crossmember.

bcolman
03-02-2007, 11:47 AM
its got 4 inch suspension lift and 2 body.

fbronco86
03-02-2007, 11:56 AM
well, heres one for Doug
broke the passenger outer shaft on the 44. anyone have a spare?

past that made a new 1350 rear driveshaft and finished welding the rear bumper and painted it

to do list before next trip or till it can be daily driven/sold with a clear conscience:
fix front outer stub
add shocks
crossover steering
rear brake cylinder
screw in dash
and maybe weld rear axle up

What brand shaft was it. Some have a warrenty on them.

bcolman
03-02-2007, 12:04 PM
they came with the blazer so i called the previous owner and he is looking for the paperwork to see if there was a warrenty.

bcolman
07-03-2007, 12:18 AM
well i decided to keep it, and have since found a front dana 60 for it which i will pick up later this month.

to do
rock sliders
pickup and install dana 60
shocks
rear anti wrap bar
new rear spring plates
eventually dual t-cases
other misc odds and ends

now i just need to decide if i want to do hydro assist steering or shell out the money for full hydro steering

agjohn02
07-03-2007, 01:37 AM
well i decided to keep it, and have since found a front dana 60 for it which i will pick up later this month.

to do
rock sliders
pickup and install dana 60
shocks
rear anti wrap bar
new rear spring plates
eventually dual t-cases
other misc odds and ends

now i just need to decide if i want to do hydro assist steering or shell out the money for full hydro steering



ask doug if this is a good idea.

CRaSHnBuRN
07-03-2007, 08:10 AM
ask doug if this is a good idea.

quite honestly, is anything we do to our rigs a good idea?

robertf03
07-03-2007, 08:38 AM
quite honestly, is anything we do to our rigs a good idea?

andy's bottle opener was a good idea

CRaSHnBuRN
07-03-2007, 08:57 AM
I guess you got me there

jerryg79
07-03-2007, 08:58 AM
quite honestly, is anything we do to our rigs a good idea?

I think frick has the right idea with big nasty. :gigem:

william_ace
07-03-2007, 01:09 PM
take the body lift off and put back on the fenders that were hacked to all hell

colman
07-03-2007, 01:20 PM
those fenders looked like ass and were flimsy as hell. plus we threw them away 6 mos ago

BMFScout
07-03-2007, 01:27 PM
Sell it, buy and FJ Cruiser and SAS it! :flipoff2:

FJAggie07
07-03-2007, 01:38 PM
Sell it, but and FJ Cruiser and SAS it! :flipoff2:

bastard... :flipoff2:

BMFScout
07-03-2007, 01:53 PM
:)

bcolman
08-07-2007, 11:58 AM
i just picked up a dana 60 front, i got it with spare shafts, spare ring and pinion, spare carrier, and spare yoke. all i need for it is one lock out. now i just need to figure out steering. hydro assist or full hydro, and also which steering arms i am going to use. any suggestions.

DRAGOONRANCH
08-07-2007, 03:56 PM
go w/ full hydro if you can unless this is going to be a dd. Offroad design had some pretty good steering arms, they had the psc assist kit also.

CheapJeep
08-07-2007, 04:05 PM
I went with Rockstomper arms and hydro assist.

CRaSHnBuRN
08-07-2007, 04:30 PM
if you're cheap, you can make your own arms or get someone to do it for you. Hydro assist can also be done cheaply by getting the parts from a place like surplus center and tapping your own steering box

AggieTJ2007
08-07-2007, 05:27 PM
yeah, but a surplus ram, self tapped box, and turned up pump won't push as much fluid, steer as quickly or easily as a full system from someone.

PSC is always good but look at Howe and Station they both have excelent products

bcolman
08-07-2007, 05:52 PM
if i end up going full hydro will i be able to use my current pump like i can with hydro assist or will i need a different one?

bcolman
09-24-2007, 10:45 AM
i just got in almost all the parts i need for the front 60 swap and discs in the rear. all i need is to go get my 52 inch springs for the front and some brake lines. then i need to find some time to get this all done.

DRAGOONRANCH
09-24-2007, 10:52 AM
Chiney!!!111!!!!11uno!!111!!

colman
09-24-2007, 11:52 AM
those brackets that are in the bottom middle are to make an anti wrap bar, i also got a set of those for my 14b

bcolman
09-25-2007, 05:52 PM
i am doing disc brake swap on my rear axle, and some day i want to get the blazer street worthy, do i have to use the eldorado calipers or is there another way that i can have a legal e-brake (line lock, pinion brake, etc.)?

Sharpe
09-25-2007, 06:04 PM
You can use cadi calipers but hooking up the cables to them is a *****. I've only seen one guy do it succesfully and he welded a ****ing craftsman box end wrench to the lever to make it work somehow. A t-case output brake from high angle would be your best bet IMO, but you have to have a fixed rear output T-case and get the kit from High Angle.

colman
09-25-2007, 07:16 PM
looks like it's time to do that doubler brian

bcolman
09-25-2007, 07:32 PM
You can use cadi calipers but hooking up the cables to them is a *****. I've only seen one guy do it succesfully and he welded a ****ing craftsman box end wrench to the lever to make it work somehow. A t-case output brake from high angle would be your best bet IMO, but you have to have a fixed rear output T-case and get the kit from High Angle.

what did you use as a e-brake to get yours to pass inspection?

Sharpe
09-25-2007, 07:33 PM
I have a high angle t-case e-brake but I havent gotten around to hooking it up, thus I have yet to get pigpen inspected.

Doug Krebs
09-25-2007, 07:38 PM
I daily drove the blazer for a couple of years without an emergency break and for more than a couple with dual exhaust dumped before the rear axle without cats...

Ask around there should be places that will inspect them. There has to be a couple of places around with the abominations I've seen driving around.

eight
09-26-2007, 12:39 PM
The calipers we put on Kurt's yj worked good. He just hooked the factory cables to the calipers I think. I know there were no major mods required. Just welded the brackets on and bolted up the calipers. I'm not sure exactly what the calipers came from, I heard from a caddie, but I got them off my front porch.

TxCruzr
09-26-2007, 01:13 PM
I've always gotten the cruiser inspected at a place where I know the guy and they just slap a sticker on it, but when I took my truck to the quicker sticker place behind napa, all they did was check the actual brakes, horn, lights, and the gas cap so you might be able to get away with it. Everything I've read about the caddy brakes was that they were a PITA to get working and still didn't apply enough pressure to work well.

jerryg79
09-26-2007, 01:22 PM
somewhere in the last week of checking out blazer sites, i found a guy pimping some brake stuff he was just coming out with. One of the deals was a handbrake that had its own mastercylinder to control a hydraulic emergency brake.

Supposedly it had some crap to avoid the bleed down of the hydraulics and apparently since it was a seperate hydraulic system it was legal for a handbrake.

It looked expensive though. I'll try to find the link tonight.

DRAGOONRANCH
12-31-2007, 02:45 AM
It looked expensive though. I'll try to find the link tonight.


ehmmm, any luck on this???

Brian, hows it coming along BTW?

colman
12-31-2007, 08:46 AM
i dropped his 60 off wed to have the r & p set up at j and p. so when he gets back into town it looks like we are going to be doing the 60 and 52" swap as well as crossover and hydro assist. already have all of the parts

DRAGOONRANCH
12-31-2007, 09:34 AM
sweet, when do yall think you gonna be able to take her out on a test run?

bcolman
12-31-2007, 11:46 AM
i am hopping for a test run by the end of jan, but realistically it will be mid feb i think

Sharpe
12-31-2007, 03:14 PM
I wouldnt bother with the 63's in the rear. Stick with 56's for the better departure angle.

DRAGOONRANCH
12-31-2007, 10:42 PM
i am hopping for a test run by the end of jan, but realistically it will be mid feb i think

Sweet. So you gonna have it ready for TCC then, right? I look forward to wheelin w/ this bad bitty.

Oh yeah, x2 on the 56"s, I have plenty of flex in them up front on da beast.

bcolman
01-01-2008, 04:00 PM
I wouldnt bother with the 63's in the rear. Stick with 56's for the better departure angle.

i never planed on using 63's in the rear, it flexes pretty well with the stock spring right now so i thing that i am going to stick with the 52's in the rear for now, and maybe later if i feel that they are hindering me then i will switch to the 56's

Sharpe
01-01-2008, 06:20 PM
Ah, misunderstood what Andrew said earlier.

DRAGOONRANCH
01-02-2008, 02:32 AM
I can't believe sharpe didn't hit on the "fact" that 52's flex as good as 56's w/ less axle wrap. This is a "fact" is well documented, just as anybody on texas4x4 or pbb. :D

bcolman
01-20-2008, 01:46 AM
i got the front 60 installed today, now all i have to do is the steering (which i should get done on Monday) so it will be out on the trail again

bcolman
04-03-2008, 06:52 PM
i finished up the steering and installed my winch, and took it out to 47 a few weeks ago, it did well but needed lower gears, so now i have to install my klune and 205 that i picked up this week, and button up some other things in time for trees.

agjohn02
04-03-2008, 09:34 PM
wow, klune, 205 and a 60. this things turning into a beast. why the bent drag link?

DRAGOONRANCH
04-04-2008, 12:15 AM
clearance?

Looks like you gonna be Big Time. -pimp-

william_ace
04-04-2008, 12:23 AM
whats the gears in the axles?

bcolman
04-04-2008, 04:14 AM
why the bent drag link?

so it doesnt hit my oil pan

bcolman
04-04-2008, 04:16 AM
whats the gears in the axles?

4.10

Sharpe
04-04-2008, 01:16 PM
Is that an ORD draglink? Thats what I had on pigpen first but since I dont have a factory engien crossmember I am able to run a straight one. What pitman arm do you have?

colman
04-04-2008, 08:25 PM
he got it from diy4x or ord i can't remember, i think it is from a ford van or something like that

bcolman
05-03-2008, 06:55 PM
i got the klune and 205 in and finished the new cross member today, i also trimmed the rear fenders some, now all i need to do is finish up my hydro assist and finish trimming up the front fenders, and maybe some exhaust work

DRAGOONRANCH
05-03-2008, 10:48 PM
:gigem:

david or goliath?

agjohn02
05-03-2008, 11:28 PM
got cage?

DRAGOONRANCH
05-04-2008, 12:40 AM
no (i don't think)

just cab

bcolman
05-04-2008, 12:42 PM
:gigem:

david or goliath?

goliath

bcolman
05-04-2008, 12:43 PM
got cage?

it came with a roll bar racing cage thing and if i have time i am going to tie it in to the frame, if not then i have the cab and roll bar thing if i roll it

DRAGOONRANCH
05-04-2008, 12:54 PM
it came with a roll bar racing cage thing and if i have time i am going to tie it in to the frame, if not then i have the cab and roll bar thing if i roll it

i stand corrected

AggieTJ2007
05-04-2008, 01:07 PM
do you have any current pictures of this thing?

bcolman
05-04-2008, 03:34 PM
ill get some when i get home from the library

DRAGOONRANCH
05-04-2008, 11:27 PM
did you get lost in the stacks????

:flipoff2:

bcolman
05-04-2008, 11:31 PM
i just got home 30 minutes ago, and since it is dark the pictures will suck so i will post some tomorrow when i should have the hydro assist done or close to it to post also

DRAGOONRANCH
05-05-2008, 12:10 AM
ya ****in tease.....

bcolman
05-05-2008, 04:11 PM
here are some pictures, today has been slow because of the rain and lask of space in my garage to work on my stuff cause my brother takes up most of it, but i do have everything for my rear drive shaft i just need to weld it up and then i will get the hydro stuff done later this week

bcolman
05-05-2008, 04:13 PM
pictures:

AggieTJ2007
05-05-2008, 07:32 PM
looks good

bcolman
05-05-2008, 10:40 PM
i got the rear drive shaft built today, i just have to finish welding it tomorrow and add a little paint and grease and i will have 4 wheel drive again

DRAGOONRANCH
05-05-2008, 10:41 PM
cause my brother takes up most of it...

get a chain and drag his pile of poo on down to the scrapyard, he will thank you for it later. ;)

and x2 on what creighton said. :gigem:

RCcola55
05-05-2008, 10:57 PM
what size tube is the driveshaft, i know ive candycained 2in with 1.5in inside before and that was on the front!

bcolman
05-05-2008, 10:58 PM
get a chain and drag his pile of poo on down to the scrapyard, he will thank you for it later.

i have threatened and since then i have gotten some space, it has taken almost a year and he has given me about 1/4 of the garage, but i cant complain to much because all the tools are his

85cj7
05-05-2008, 11:06 PM
what size tube is the driveshaft, i know ive candycained 2in with 1.5in inside before and that was on the front!

yah but not everybody drives like a drunk monkey either;)

colman
05-05-2008, 11:42 PM
i'm a bit of a packrat but everytime something is needed i seem to have one somewhere or something that we could make work. if i had some time then i could put my new jeep together. i have 95% of the parts. Or maybe i should stop acquiring new projects and fix the ones i have. i now have 2.5 jeeps and a chevy 5/4 ton



get a chain and drag his pile of poo on down to the scrapyard, he will thank you for it later. ;)

and x2 on what creighton said. :gigem:

colman
05-05-2008, 11:47 PM
also i think he needs a better set of rims. right now there are 7" wide stockers. anyone know where any 16" beadlocks are?

bcolman
05-05-2008, 11:50 PM
what size tube is the driveshaft, i know ive candycained 2in with 1.5in inside before and that was on the front!

its 2 inch with 1.5 inside, this is just temporary till i order the cv output for the 205 and get a cv shaft made, i just dont have that kind of money right now and am short on time

AggieTJ2007
05-06-2008, 06:52 AM
oh, please add some sort of extra support for the 205, Look at how davidO supported his. It just scares me to see that much weight hanging off the aluminum

bcolman
05-06-2008, 09:18 AM
oh, please add some sort of extra support for the 205, Look at how davidO supported his. It just scares me to see that much weight hanging off the aluminum

i plan on adding some more support

does anyone have a picture of dabido's setup, i looked through his whole build up thread and cant find one of how he has the support other than the one that he has that is in the same place as mine

DRAGOONRANCH
05-06-2008, 10:43 AM
I bet you could call him and go get a quick look at it yourself. ;)

bcolman
05-12-2008, 08:58 AM
i got the hydro assist steering done yesterday, it makes such a difference. now all i need to do is get some spare parts and liquids and figure out how i am going to do the exhaust and i am ready for trees

DRAGOONRANCH
05-12-2008, 09:37 AM
sa-weet!!!

bcolman
05-27-2008, 08:18 AM
blazer worked real well this weekend and i didn't break anything to major, i lost part of my winch fair lead and had an issue with my fuel pump relay. but i did realize that it is time for shocks, anyone have any suggestions on some good ones, i don't mind spending some money on them but i don't want to spend to much. my budget is between 300 and 400 for the set. which ones are the good ones? the ones that i have looked at so far are blistens, ranchos, and pro comps, what are the other good ones?

BroncoJo
05-27-2008, 09:06 AM
ranchos are overpriced as far as their quality goes. I've allways had real good luck with bilsteins.


I have no experience with procomp except for the cheap shocks (125 for the set). Worked fine when I DD the bronco in Highschool, If one messed up I would just take i back to 4 wheel parts and get a new one.

Seth
05-27-2008, 09:07 AM
bilsteins. or super cheepies.

Seth
05-27-2008, 09:08 AM
ranchos are relabels of a major mfr. tenneco maybe?

Sharpe
05-27-2008, 09:17 AM
Pro-comp MX-6's are prety good, thats what I have on the front of Pigpen. The finish on them is prety much gone now but they still work great. I've had them for about 5 years.

bcolman
05-27-2008, 09:25 AM
Pro-comp MX-6's are prety good, thats what I have on the front of Pigpen. The finish on them is prety much gone now but they still work great. I've had them for about 5 years.

what do you have on the rear?

tigweld
05-27-2008, 10:06 AM
ranchos are relabels of a major mfr. tenneco maybe?

not relabled they are division owned by tenneco. any twin tube shock is not a good choice. A mono tube is a much better shock. the mx6 is monotube and good value but for just a little more I would go with a more proven product like bilstein which is oem upgrade on quite a few makes. I am not a fan of shocks with knobs as it is a sales gemmick unless it's bypass shock

Sharpe
05-27-2008, 10:28 AM
what do you have on the rear?

Nothing :laughing:


not relabled they are division owned by tenneco. any twin tube shock is not a good choice. A mono tube is a much better shock. the mx6 is monotube and good value but for just a little more I would go with a more proven product like bilstein which is oem upgrade on quite a few makes. I am not a fan of shocks with knobs as it is a sales gemmick unless it's bypass shock

I will say I didnt know much about shocks when I bought these (I was 17...) and wasnt familiar with higher-end brands. I would deffinately go with Bilsteins or some other premium brand because as you mentioned, they arent that much more. I agree that the knob doesnt do ****, all the settings feel identical. Of course Pigpen is a heavy ***** and the differences might be more noticable on a lighter truck but I cant help you there.

CRaSHnBuRN
05-27-2008, 12:08 PM
bilstien or BBCS

agjohn02
05-27-2008, 02:05 PM
bilstien or BBCS

x2

bcolman
06-27-2008, 05:04 PM
i just got in some parts, now all i need to do is find some time to get up to bryan to work on it

i just got 4 new shocks, i got bilstein 5125 (i got 4 for just over 300), i have new poly motor mounts (just replacing the original ones for piece of mind), and some spring bushing kits so that i can make a new tranny and t-case cross member, now all i need is some steel and some time

bcolman
09-21-2008, 09:17 PM
had a good trip out to 47 today, up till i bent the **** out of my tie rod, i had one hill climb that i was told i got close to 4 feet of air at the top

as to the tie rod, now i am going to have to make a new one, what thickness should i get, as of now the two different thicknesses i would consider is 1.25 od and .250 wall or 1.5 od .375 wall

what do yall think, will .250 wall be enough or should i go thicker?

DRAGOONRANCH
09-21-2008, 09:44 PM
I like a thick shaft myself...

AggieTJ2007
09-21-2008, 10:08 PM
i would go with some 1.5 x .250 wall because the tube adapters are easy to get. Also I think I know a certain individual that has some extra that he might sell you for a decent price.

if you go 1.5 x .375 you can tap it for the 1ton TRE's but it is a pain in the ass, or so I have heard. I think that Doug has the taps do do it. and.

Also this is in HiSteer correct, go with the .250 wall

DRAGOONRANCH
09-21-2008, 10:15 PM
Yeah, 'behind the axle' hi-steer.

Where are the adapters you speak of? I have not run across them yet, but I am going through the garage and red shed tomorrow to box a bunch of stuff up.

AggieTJ2007
09-22-2008, 07:45 PM
you don't have any adapters but you do have some tube

AggieTJ2007
09-22-2008, 07:47 PM
here are the adapters
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Threaded-Tube-Adapter-p-349.html

or if I build another tie rod I might use these
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Rod-End-Receivers-Round-p-2295.html

A little more expensive but they should hold tighter than Jam Nuts

RCcola55
09-22-2008, 08:14 PM
how do you think those would hold up for links?

bcolman
10-17-2008, 07:29 PM
worked on stuff today, i got my seats re mounted to the roll bar/cage, swapped on a truck tail gate, painted some stuff, and worked a little on my new tie rod, pictures to come soon

bcolman
12-10-2008, 07:04 PM
well i got most everything done i wanted to for this trip done:
gave it a new paint job
mounted stereo and cb
mounted a cooler
installed front bump stops
new tie rod is done
hydro line is fixed
installed missing wheel studs on the rear
installed new led taillights
mounted my hi lift
took out inner front fenders and did some fender trimming

also i got to see how the blazer looked with a loaded trailer behind it, it would be one scary tow

william_ace
12-10-2008, 07:19 PM
is that your brothers 3/4 ton?

colman
12-10-2008, 07:24 PM
yea i'm having fuel issues so i had to tow it back home the other day. that pic is before we unloaded it

bcolman
12-10-2008, 07:30 PM
is that your brothers 3/4 ton?

it only dropped the rear of the blazer 4 inches :rolleyes:

DRAGOONRANCH
12-10-2008, 08:29 PM
get a bigger drop hitch and you will be golden. ;)

Seth
12-10-2008, 10:50 PM
yea i'm having fuel issues so i had to tow it back home the other day. that pic is before we unloaded it

Oh ok I see it now, I thought that was after it was unloaded :rolleyes:

william_ace
12-11-2008, 01:05 AM
i thought it was a single cab long bed for some reason is all

bcolman
12-14-2008, 10:29 PM
after this weekend i found out lots that need to be done

i have a cable shifter for the transfer case on its way, new front diff cover and then move the current front one to the rear, tube out the front and add sliders, and build a better cross member, and i am sure there is more

colman
12-15-2008, 01:51 AM
i predict 200 feet of tube within 3 months

bcolman
01-06-2009, 08:59 PM
i finally got the blazer back to the house and have started tearing it down to do some work. i got 150 feet of tube to finish the cage and narrow the front, i am pulling the transfer case out tomorrow and getting it rebuilt, and the list goes on, ill get pictures tomorow and show the progress

does any one have a torch i can use for a few hours? i need to cut out some rivets to do the 52'' spring swap.

Reckless
01-06-2009, 09:15 PM
i can help you rebuild the 205, its not rocket science

bcolman
01-07-2009, 10:21 PM
i got some work done today, i pulled out the old front springs and torched off the spring mounts, pulled apart the grill, pulled the battery, and pulled the transfer cases. here are some pictures of how it looks now.

DRAGOONRANCH
01-07-2009, 10:31 PM
I am sure you went down to Madame Maries's House of Voodoo and Waffles and got the 2fer (plate of waffles and one hex of your choice) to keep code enforcement at bay...

:D

redcagepatrol
01-07-2009, 10:47 PM
make it lower, cut sheet metal.

push drivetrain up, try to get a flat belly (you're already redoing one of the three mounts...) Put that engine right up to the hood...

redcagepatrol
01-07-2009, 10:48 PM
why new springs?

AggieTJ2007
01-07-2009, 10:53 PM
I think they are 52s instead of 48s it should give it a little more flex and better ride in the front

bcolman
01-07-2009, 10:57 PM
make it lower, cut sheet metal.

push drivetrain up, try to get a flat belly (you're already redoing one of the three mounts...) Put that engine right up to the hood...

i am clocking up the 205 to be flat or close to flat, im also taking off the 2 inch body lift

DRAGOONRANCH
01-07-2009, 10:57 PM
yes-to Creightons spring comment

bcolman
01-07-2009, 10:58 PM
I think they are 52s instead of 48s it should give it a little more flex and better ride in the front

that is true, better flex and better ride, and it will move the front axle forward a few inches

Doug Krebs
01-07-2009, 11:04 PM
Want my old bumper? It has spring hangers built into it for the 52" springs. I'll sell it cheap.

bcolman
01-08-2009, 09:47 PM
i finished the suspension, i moved the axle so far forward that i couldnt put the tires on cause i still need to cut away some of the front fender. now i am going to move on to front tube work and cage work, i just have to source a bender in town that i can use, or a 1.75 die for a jd2. its to dark for pictures to look good so ill take some tomorrow when i get started.

KrazyKarl02
01-09-2009, 12:36 AM
The front sounds good if you can't put tires on. What will your final length be?

bcolman
01-09-2009, 01:15 AM
im not sure on the final length, ill measure tomorrow and let you know

bcolman
01-09-2009, 11:31 AM
i pulled out the torch and cut some of the fenders so i could put the tires on, the wheel base is about 112 inches, now i need to figure out exactly how i am going to do the tube work on the front and also take out the rest of the ac stuff so that i can narrow the front how i want to

DRAGOONRANCH
01-09-2009, 11:12 PM
I bet John Wayne is getting a kick out that!!!

DRAGOONRANCH
01-09-2009, 11:12 PM
Oh, and I am at 118 if it matters to ya any.

bcolman
01-09-2009, 11:20 PM
i got some more done today, i pulled out all of the ac stuff, installed my new to me b&m shifter, and took off the body lift. pictures in the morning

Eckert
01-09-2009, 11:51 PM
you forgot the custom shackles.

CheapJeep
01-10-2009, 03:50 AM
Your **** looks like a crinkled piece of notebook paper now...

I like the stretch though, ready to see pics of it without the body lift.

DRAGOONRANCH
01-10-2009, 09:01 AM
Your **** looks like a crinkled piece of notebook paper now...

and your point is??? :angry:

we wear it like a badge of honor. :flipoff2: :cheers:

eight
01-10-2009, 09:42 AM
Can you lower the radiator support/grill any?

colman
01-10-2009, 10:19 AM
lower it more after the body lift is off?

eight
01-10-2009, 10:36 AM
si

bcolman
01-10-2009, 11:36 AM
here are some pictures with the body lift off

Sharpe
01-10-2009, 02:42 PM
Ditch the outter fenders.

redcagepatrol
01-10-2009, 04:49 PM
Looks great lowered. Keep the sheetmetal, just cut to clear. Those dents are sexy!

bcolman
01-10-2009, 04:52 PM
im going to keep the fenders, just fold them in on to what ever tube work i end up doing.

AggieTJ2007
01-10-2009, 05:27 PM
I agree, I like the sheet metal, what kopeki is talking about is maybe tiltling the radiator back a little so you can see over the hood line better

Sharpe
01-10-2009, 07:22 PM
The radiators on C/K series trucks are 2" shorter than the old body style ones. I was thinking about trying to kludge a C/K core support onto Pigpen and cut and rotate the hood hinges to lower it accordingly but there is absolutely no room for me to do that now with the uber-tall 8.1 intake. You might be able to make it work though.

bcolman
01-10-2009, 07:47 PM
i might be able to get an inch or two, but it would be tons of work, as is my radiator is almost touching the hood and the frame so it wouldnt be easy so i am going to live with it

Reckless
01-10-2009, 08:31 PM
ive got that 98 chevy with the core support if ya want it

bcolman
01-11-2009, 05:03 PM
i got some of the front tube work done so far today and have mounted the driver side fender, here are some pictures

bcolman
01-11-2009, 05:04 PM
also the doors will be coming off once i get the car cover, it should be in the store i just need to go pick it up

colman
01-11-2009, 11:15 PM
doors are off and donated to bigbird (need some internals and the door pannels). the yellow truck behind the general. duno what i'm gonna do with it but i couldn't pass up getting it

Eckert
01-11-2009, 11:32 PM
your going to sell it. what internals could you have possibly used from the passenger door?!

colman
01-12-2009, 12:35 AM
the door lock mechanism and then the door panels. bigbird was a power everthing truck but the doors on it now are manual so the door panels etc were wrong. i need manual

Sharpe
01-12-2009, 01:10 PM
I see you decided to skip bending tube? :laughing:

bcolman
01-12-2009, 01:28 PM
I see you decided to skip bending tube? :laughing:

just for the front stuff, i wont get anything done on my cage till i get my hands on a bender. do you have a 1.75 die yet?

tigweld
01-12-2009, 04:36 PM
I see you decided to skip bending tube? :laughing:

I like the look of it with no bends. go look at any pre-runner truck and they are almost always done like that if triagulated properly it can be much stronger than with bends

AggieTJ2007
01-12-2009, 10:17 PM
I like it looks sweet, have you decided how you are going to do the hood

bcolman
01-12-2009, 10:34 PM
i just cut it, i liked your idea but i just wanted to get something on there, ill find another hood later and try out that way

bcolman
01-12-2009, 11:26 PM
i am going to wire up the lights tomorow, i plan to wire them in to the stock harness so i can use the stock switch, in doing this will i still need to use a relay?

Reckless
01-12-2009, 11:30 PM
i wouldnt think so

Sharpe
01-12-2009, 11:54 PM
Yes use a relay the lights will be brighter and the switch will last longer.

DRAGOONRANCH
01-13-2009, 04:54 AM
x2

Seth
01-13-2009, 08:41 AM
agreed.

AggieTJ2007
01-13-2009, 07:14 PM
Wow never seen so much agreeing on on page before

redcagepatrol
01-13-2009, 07:20 PM
i am going to wire up the lights tomorow, i plan to wire them in to the stock harness so i can use the stock switch, in doing this will i still need to use a relay?

If there is an OEM switch, there should be a relay. Use the stock switch - otherwise, buy a good switch and no relay:flipoff2:

Sharpe
01-13-2009, 07:26 PM
If there is an OEM switch, there should be a relay.

Nope, no relay from the factory.

bcolman
01-18-2009, 07:22 PM
i got some work done today, when i started it up i realized i had a big leak in my oil cooler, will i need to replace this or can i just bypass it?

Reckless
01-18-2009, 08:24 PM
engine oil?

bcolman
01-18-2009, 09:07 PM
engine oil?

yeah, i dont think i need it but i just want to make sure

Reckless
01-18-2009, 09:27 PM
personally i would try to fix it just to be sure, cheap insurance

bcolman
01-18-2009, 09:31 PM
i am thinking that i dont need it cause some chevys have them and some dont, i think it is part of some sort of tow package or something like that, which is why i dont think i need it

Sharpe
01-18-2009, 10:27 PM
For a wheelin rig you dont need it IMO. They are meant more for trucks that tow. You might be lucky and the cooler will be easy to remove via the adapter between the oil filter and the block. On my 8.1, the cooler fittings are threaded directly into the block so I just have a hose looped between the two.

DRAGOONRANCH
01-18-2009, 10:52 PM
If it's not an easy fix, you won't need it.

bcolman
01-18-2009, 11:23 PM
after i got the oil cooler off i think i am just going to loop it up by where the cooler was and worry about taking the lines off some time later(maybe when i have to rebuild the motor, hopefully not soon)

bcolman
01-21-2009, 07:08 PM
i got the new cross member done and installed, hopefully i wont break this one. now i just need to finish the torque arm for the 205, fill fluids, install my front shocks, and lengthen my front drive shaft

Doug Krebs
01-22-2009, 10:19 AM
Thats a nice looking bend!:flipoff2:

I rule!

bcolman
01-22-2009, 10:45 AM
Thats a nice looking bend!:flipoff2:

thanks again for helping me out with that

bcolman
02-23-2009, 07:12 PM
so i just got in my stealth conversions vss adapter, but i need to know which wire on my blazers wiring harness to hook it up to, the wires that went to the old vss were purple with white line and green with black line, are either of these an ecm ground? if so then i am set otherwise i will need to find an ecm ground

bcolman
03-14-2009, 11:40 PM
i am thinking of getting some new rims for the blazer, my tires are 13.5 wide, would it be a bad idea to run them on an 8 inch wide rim? i found a set cheap but i think it might be better to get a 10 inch wide rim, what do yall think?

edit: currently i am running stock gm steel 16 inch rims, i think they are 6.75 wide.

Sharpe
03-14-2009, 11:59 PM
On the skinnier rim they'll wear funny if you do too much street driving but it will be much more difficult to blow a bead. If you are not going with beadlocks I'd deffinately go with the narrower wheels.

colman
03-15-2009, 12:25 AM
i think his plans are internals like stauns and there is no street driving except like from clayton to the trail

DRAGOONRANCH
03-15-2009, 02:10 AM
Does staun list any specs that would dictate the width of rim that can be safely used? If so, just stick with that. The 8" wides should be just fine with those tires, but you were already burping air at times with the 6.75s so you may have to up your pressure until you get the staun's in.

DRAGOONRANCH
03-15-2009, 02:19 AM
SBLNC166: Suit 16 in rim x 6-6.5 in wide
SBLNC1679: Suit 16 in rim x 7-9 in wide
SBLNC169.510: Suit 16 in rim x 9.5-10 in wide
SBLNC161112: Suit 16 in rim x 11-12 in wide


Looks like they offer a couple of different models in the 16" variety. Guess you need to figure out what rim you want to ultimately run before you drop coin on these.

bcolman
04-27-2009, 03:07 PM
so i need to put on a few new gauges, but i want them to match the ones i already have in the garage waiting to be installed, so does anyone know if i can run a water temp gauge as a trans temp gauge?

Doug Krebs
04-27-2009, 03:14 PM
I have an autometer tranny gauge. What type of gauge are you looking for?

Sharpe
04-27-2009, 03:21 PM
As long as the temp range is similar I would think so.

bcolman
04-27-2009, 03:22 PM
im not sure exactly what they are, but i know they arent auto meter, after looking around the water temp and the trans temp gauges use the same sending unit, so i dont see why i couldnt use the water temp gauge for a trans temp gauge

bcolman
04-28-2009, 07:39 PM
so i have been looking for beadlocks for some time now and came across these, do yall think they will hold up to wheeling hard?

here (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/16-beadlock-rims-rock-crawler-dana-60-hmmwv-wheels_W0QQitemZ120412558632QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMot ors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item120412558 632&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318)

redcagepatrol
04-28-2009, 07:54 PM
so i have been looking for beadlocks for some time now and came across these, do yall think they will hold up to wheeling hard?

here (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/16-beadlock-rims-rock-crawler-dana-60-hmmwv-wheels_W0QQitemZ120412558632QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMot ors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item120412558 632&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318)

I'd think so.
Heck, AL double beadlocks for $800, unmolested factory stuff - I'd be willing to bet they would hold up - would have to be built to mil-spec.

tigweld
04-28-2009, 09:01 PM
they are bad arse rims we put a set on our h1 they took a pretty good beating after the factory ones had already givin' up. I thought the military still used 16.5's and that is what we had on them. we also had to grind the **** out of the center bore to fit, but I checked one of my ford front hubs and it lined up perfect.

DRAGOONRANCH
04-28-2009, 10:05 PM
The HMMWV's do still run 16.5's on all of them I have seen here. They do have a new tread pattern I would like to check out though. I didn't read the guys reviews, but if what he says is true, then they should be a good rim. Do EET!!!

DRAGOONRANCH
05-04-2009, 12:19 PM
What shocks are you planning on running?

bcolman
05-04-2009, 12:21 PM
i already have them, the same as i have in the rear, bilstein somethings

DRAGOONRANCH
05-04-2009, 12:24 PM
cool beans, you will love the difference they end up making

bcolman
05-05-2009, 09:46 AM
i just picked up a set of used rims and a new set of stauns for 550 total, ill get pictures when they get here

DRAGOONRANCH
05-05-2009, 09:49 AM
bad ass!!!

colman
05-05-2009, 02:00 PM
now its time to egg brian into buying the super charger from me so he can destroy his transmission faster

DRAGOONRANCH
05-05-2009, 02:02 PM
Hmmmm, tell me more...

bcolman
05-05-2009, 02:21 PM
i would try and get this on for the trip, but i dont think i will have enough time to get that done, the new rims and stauns on, build a cage and other misc stuff

bcolman
05-19-2009, 03:14 PM
i got my twin stick done and i am almost sure i got the trans leak fixed, now i just need to do the stauns for this weekend

DRAGOONRANCH
05-19-2009, 03:21 PM
So no more crawling under the truck to switch out of 4lo, that is awesome!@@@!!!!!

Try and take some good pictures of the staun install, that would be interesting to see.

bcolman
05-19-2009, 06:14 PM
ill get some pictures of the twin sticks tomorrow when i am working on the stauns, and just for you ed ill take some pictures of the staun install

bcolman
05-26-2009, 07:57 PM
i didnt get any pictures of the staun install(ill get some when i install the rear ones), here are some pictures of the twin stick, they work great, now i just need a cutting brake so that i can do a decent front dig

bcolman
05-26-2009, 08:02 PM
i also got the front shocks installed, and here are a few pictures of my broken drive shaft from this last weekend, i called jesse and he said that he would fix it no charge, but i did make a square one just in case i dont get it back in time

bcolman
05-26-2009, 08:06 PM
and here are some pictures from last weekend

DRAGOONRANCH
05-26-2009, 09:37 PM
i also got the front shocks installed, and here are a few pictures of my broken drive shaft from this last weekend, i called jesse and he said that he would fix it no charge, but i did make a square one just in case i dont get it back in time

Awesome carnage, now you just need to sleeve what ever size that d-shaft is w/ some 3/8-1/4" wall. :gigem:

AggieTJ2007
05-26-2009, 10:20 PM
ive got some 2 inch sch 80 in the back of the truck (well if I ever get it back)

bcolman
05-26-2009, 11:31 PM
i sent it off to jess at high angle and he is going to hook me up with something, ill give him a call thursday to see what he thinks and also see about getting something thicker put on it

bcolman
09-02-2009, 06:22 PM
been working on the blazer, i have done some work on my cage, its not done but i do feel much safer now, i got it tied to the frame and also the a pillars and windshield cross bars installed, now all i need is some more triangulation.

i also built version 3 of my trans crossmember, if this one fails it will be a sight to see, the main cross tube is 2.5 square .25 wall and the rest is 3/16 to mount to the tcase

edit: now all i need is some paint and to install it to be ready to load up for trees this weekend

AggieTJ2007
09-02-2009, 07:08 PM
sweet, I hope that I won't have to weld that one back together. do you have any pictures of versions 1 and 2

bcolman
09-02-2009, 07:49 PM
turns out this is version 4, i forgot about the first one that i had to ditch cause the driveshaft hit it, that can be seen on page 6 post 81, version 2 i cant find a picture of and version 3 can be seen on page 13 post 182

AggieTJ2007
09-02-2009, 09:25 PM
ive only got 11 pages total

bcolman
09-02-2009, 10:38 PM
ive only got 11 pages total

ive got 15 pages so i dont know where the other 4 went for you

DRAGOONRANCH
09-02-2009, 10:49 PM
http://www.tamor.org/forums/showpost.php?p=190029&postcount=81

http://www.tamor.org/forums/showpost.php?p=217429&postcount=182

Man yall are lazy (you've been hanging around me too long. :D )

uglyota
09-03-2009, 09:18 AM
Nice. That one looks like it should do the trick!

bcolman
09-03-2009, 09:47 AM
Nice. That one looks like it should do the trick!

i sure hope it does, but only time and how much skinny pedal i use will tell

uglyota
09-03-2009, 11:01 AM
What thickness are the bushing sleeves?

colman
09-03-2009, 12:01 PM
1.75 dom .120 wall

uglyota
09-03-2009, 12:39 PM
I'd bump that up to .250 or weld a strap around them

J Cooper
09-03-2009, 12:41 PM
agreed on the .250

uglyota
09-03-2009, 12:52 PM
also, for your bolt sleeve in the middle, make sure you have the kind without the seam. The ones with the seam suck
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/oops/IMG_0765.sized.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/oops/IMG_0794.sized.jpg

colman
09-04-2009, 03:37 AM
i told him to weld a strap he thinks he will be ok, only time will tell

redcagepatrol
09-04-2009, 07:55 AM
or just use the right size bolt for the sleeve. If it needs a 9/16" bolt, get it, don't try to use a 1/2" or it will end up looking like the hippies.

You can't have any play between the bolt and the bolt sleeve, the shank of the bolt should go almost all the way through the sleeve. Many times, I buy an extra long bolt for the longer shank - and just cut off the extra threads.

redcagepatrol
09-04-2009, 07:57 AM
use bolts like this:
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product.aspx?id=1096

bcolman
09-04-2009, 08:45 AM
ill have to check the length of the shank on the bolts, and look in to the grease able ones, thanks for the info

uglyota
09-04-2009, 09:04 AM
or just use the right size bolt for the sleeve. If it needs a 9/16" bolt, get it, don't try to use a 1/2" or it will end up looking like the hippies.

scott that was not caused by the threads on the bolt. For the bottom bushing i used a sleeve without a seam and it is fine. You can see where the threads are cutting into the sleeve there but that is not what caused the problem.

Brian you shouldn't need greasable for this application, it shouldn't be moving around like a shackle, it just needs to be able to take a good rock hit :D

bcolman
01-21-2010, 07:38 PM
so after busting 3 u-joints at clayton and with them looking like the picture below, i decided it was time to redo my rear suspension and run a cv rear drive shaft, for the output flange on the 205 i am using a 208 front output flange i just need to change the stock seal out for a national 473457 to make it seal correctly, i have already made the driveshaft, it was my spare for my front, now i just need to finish welding the perches back on and reinstall all the parts i had to take off

agjohn02
01-21-2010, 08:07 PM
looks to me like you're just spitting caps out. does your yoke still have both of the tits on it? maybe you should try welding some washers or plate on the outside of your yoke and see if it fixes it.

agjohn02
01-21-2010, 08:09 PM
how is it that you think pinion angle and the driveshaft is doing that? that really doesnt look like an axle wrap caused break. do you not have an anti-wrap bar?

colman
01-21-2010, 08:18 PM
he hasnt got around to an anti wrap bar yet. i think that is next after this little project

bcolman
01-21-2010, 09:14 PM
i dont have an anti wrap bar yet, that is next, the problem was that i was running to much angle, i was in the mid to high 20's on a ujoint to ujoint shaft which is way to much, so the cv shaft should help this problem

bcolman
01-22-2010, 05:39 PM
anybody know where to get ubolts for a dana 70hd? the axle has a 4 inch tube diameter, i checked a few sites and they only went to 3.5 inch diameter or so

uglyota
01-22-2010, 05:54 PM
gooseneck trailer and Napa are good places to get Ubolts. Maybe even some of the big truck shops out by bryan iron and metal would be worth checking as well

tommy53002
01-22-2010, 06:53 PM
count napa out. I looked for a part # but couldnt find anything. we went from 3 5/8 to 4 1/2.

bcolman
01-22-2010, 08:50 PM
i called all around and no one had any in stock or could get them by tomorrow morning so i made what i have work for now and i will call on monday and order some new ones from some one

uglyota
01-22-2010, 09:13 PM
count napa out. I looked for a part # but couldnt find anything. we went from 3 5/8 to 4 1/2.

I think napa's measure center to center so if they are 1/2" then the 4 1/2" ones were probably perfect

davido
01-23-2010, 01:36 PM
anybody know where to get ubolts for a dana 70hd? the axle has a 4 inch tube diameter, i checked a few sites and they only went to 3.5 inch diameter or so

I had to get mine from Jeremy at 4WPW.

I was having the same problems you're having. It was axle wrap. Judging by the rust on your ear also, I'd guess yours is the same. Hasn't happened since I added the anti-wrap bar.

tommy53002
01-23-2010, 01:56 PM
I think napa's measure center to center so if they are 1/2" then the 4 1/2" ones were probably perfect

No, they measure a true I.D. The 4 1/2 will measure 4.5XX I.D.

bcolman
01-23-2010, 07:27 PM
anti wrap bar is the next thing on the list

i also went out to 47 today and the new rear driveshaft worked great, now i just need to figure out why the engine stumbles, i guess i need to do the tune up i have the parts for in the garage

bcolman
03-03-2010, 06:30 PM
ive been having a running issue and was hoping it was fuel tank related so i dropped my fuel tank and found this, the fuel pump was bent and after i straightened it out some it no longer goes in to the tank, there is now about an inch gap or so, i guess its time for a fuel cell

agjohn02
03-03-2010, 06:53 PM
you dont think that maybe its supposed to be bent like that?

bcolman
03-03-2010, 07:00 PM
no, the rubber grommet on the bottom wasnt seated how it looked like it should, and the bottom of the tank is beat in bad

colman
03-03-2010, 07:23 PM
he bent the **** out of the skid and the bottom of the tank. probably 6 or 7 gallons less capacity