Roxanne: 1985 Cj-7

[Sparling]

Are you running stock wiring or relays? If not running relays, I highly suggest it. I put relays on my Mustang and it made a world of difference with regular old glass headlights.

[colman]

o yea, i did this years ago and its great

[85cj7]

JB conversions lomax 4:1 gears
32 spline front output with 1350 yoke
32 spline rear outpit with 1350 yoke
Awesome d-300 aluminum cover. Part number 001 of only 8 currently in existence.


Crawl ratio before 85:1
Crawl ratio after 130:1

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/IMG_0003-1_zps0d7d6dfb.jpg

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/IMG_0002-1_zpsb997e201.jpg

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/IMG_0001-2_zps49a92cb3.jpg

[AggieTJ2007]

why not wait for a used atlas?

[robertf03]

Do you have to bore the retainer with those kits?

[85cj7]

Yes the front output bearing retainer.

[85cj7]

why not wait for a used atlas?

I already had all these parts.

[85cj7]

If anyone is looking for a driveshaft builder this guy is great. I would highly recommend.

New 1350 hotness next to old Tomwoods 1310.

I custom ordered the 2"x.120 tubing and the total was still $250 cheaper then the nearest quote.

19460

[Sparling]

Do you have contact info? I need driveshafts

[TdmayfieldIV]

You're gonna get grease on your carpet.

[85cj7]

Carpet on your back patio. . . . It's the only way to roll.

[85cj7]

Do you have contact info? I need driveshafts

http://stores.ebay.com/TATTONS-DRIVESHAFTS

[davido]

Carpet on your back patio. . . . It's the only way to roll.


We don't need to know about your personal grooming habits. :flipoff2:

[85cj7]

Getting everything finally wrapped up. I still need to skin the bottom with 1/4" plate

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/IMG_0028_zps67d37498.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/IMG_0028_zps67d37498.jpg.html)

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/IMG_0030_zps53abf218.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/IMG_0030_zps53abf218.jpg.html)

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/IMG_0031_zps6158934c.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/IMG_0031_zps6158934c.jpg.html)

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/IMG_0032_zps95f7ea6c.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/IMG_0032_zps95f7ea6c.jpg.html)

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/IMG_0033_zps4481c7af.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/IMG_0033_zps4481c7af.jpg.html)

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/IMG_0034_zps28d8fa7c.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/IMG_0034_zps28d8fa7c.jpg.html)

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/IMG_0035_zps4c082876.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/IMG_0035_zps4c082876.jpg.html)

[85cj7]

I went to start the jeep up to drive it out of the garage and the serpentine belt was squealing like a b*tch and smoking. . . . . . . After some investigation it seems that the smog pump pulley seized. I yanked that POS off and capped the tubes. Then switched the belt to a 71" 6 rib belt.

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/IMG_0036_zps103ad8e8.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/IMG_0036_zps103ad8e8.jpg.html)

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/IMG_00372_zps40f008d8.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/IMG_00372_zps40f008d8.jpg.html)

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/20130425_224248_zps084f526a.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/20130425_224248_zps084f526a.jpg.html)

[Sharpe]

Why was it ever installed to begin with?

[85cj7]

Pulled it outta the garage to dust off the cobwebs.

Didn't have any brakes. Swapped out the master and re-made a few lines that I was never happy with and all is good.

Also installed final front bump stops so the drag link would stop rubbing the frame. I used these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00387C46A/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with some 3/16" plate and 1.5"x.120 tubing and should be good to go now.

I also picked up some 1/4" plate and need to make up some skids to protect the underside.

Other than that and a few cases of beer it is Shiloh ready.

[85cj7]

Winch rope and aluminum fairlead.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/20131017_204600_zps7b0774f3.jpg

New rear axle tie down points.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/20131017_204445_zps4bea2825.jpg

Finally got the x-case shifters properly mounted.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/20131017_204328_zps0f0bfb31.jpg

New lines and '68 corvette master cylinder.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/20131017_204218_zpsd0087172.jpg

New front bumpstops
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/20131017_204103_zps3c2d3cf8.jpg

[Sparling]

Why a corvette master cylinder? Because it bolts up to your booster or does it works well?

[redcagepatrol]

Why a corvette master cylinder? Because it bolts up to your booster or does it works well?

Yes - that's what I'm running in Lynda's too. Made for disc brakes front and rear.

[AggieTJ2007]

does it have enough volume for 3/4 ton calipers?

[85cj7]

Yes. I've been running one since 2010 and have liked it. (1994 yj booster, 1968 corvette master cylinder, willwood adjustable proportioning valve, chevy 3/4ton calipers front and rear). My old master cylinder died while it sat in the garage this year. I think I had some water and mud in the fluid and that didn't help. I flushed the system and replaced the master (as well as a few lines that I was never happy with) and am good to go. . . . it might need some more bleeding.

[85cj7]

Does anyone have any interest in purchasing the Jeep from me? I'm thinking it over. Send me a PM if you are interested. Thanks.

[bcolman]

I would be interested but you would not like my offer

[85cj7]

Shoot me a number. I have an idea of what I think is realistic but I also want to gauge the market. . . although maybe not the Colman market.

[bcolman]

That is why I am not going to shoot you a price, because I know it is worth more than what I would want to offer right now

[Shaggy]

Can you throw up a quick list of specs. I wouldn't mind getting another one for my brother.

[Sparling]

There definitely isn't a build thread that you could/should read if you wanted to buy this thing tate.

[Seth]

standard offer. 50 bucks. Can you take a check?

[JB]

****ing why?

[TdmayfieldIV]

I'll buy it if you add a 3rd b pillar

[FJAggie07]

Tree fitty?

Good luck with the sale buddy. I have loved this jeep since the first time it went to 47.

[85cj7]

1985 CJ-7 Build Sheet
General Specs:
-Titled 1985 CJ-7 with Ford V-8, built axles, 37”s and lots of custom touches
-Slightly modified original CJ-7 body (tried to keep the classic Jeep look)
-Slightly modified original CJ-7 frame (custom spring hangers/shackle mounts, rear crossmember, center skid plate, trans and anti-wrap bar crossmember)
-Not currently registered or inspected but there is no reason it cannot be. Until recently I had it registered as an antique with no inspection required.


Engine Bay:
-1990 Ford 302 H.O. V-8 from a GT Mustang
-K&N Cold Air intake
-Smog Pump Eliminated
-Slimmed down Ford harness spliced into stock Jeep harness
-Aftermarket shorty headers
-2.5” 2 into 1 exhaust with dynomax straight through muffler
-PSC hi-flow Saginaw pump
-PSC steering reservoir and heat sink cooler
-140 Amp G-2 Alternator
-Dual Taurus Electric Fans (one thermo controlled, one manual controlled)
-3 row radiator
-Late 60s corvette brake master cylinder to YJ brake booster

Suspension:
-Brand new Rubicon Express 1.5” SOA YJ leaves sprung over in the front
-Chevy 52” sprung over in the back
-1” redrilled spring perches for front and rear stretch
-Total wheelbase 99.5”
-Rear 2” tube anti-wrap bar with johnny joint mounted to tube crossmember
-14” travel shocks all around (Rancho in front and Bilstein in back)
-Ford F-250 shock towers on all 4 corners


Axles:
-Front: -Chevy Dana 44-HD from late 70s K-20.
-Narrowed 4” on long side to run 80s waggy stock shafts
-Superior 4340 Chromo inner and outer axle shafts (stock set as spares)
-Yukon ‘super’ u-joints with bronze bushings instead of needle bearings
-Hi-steer with reverse highsteer arms and ARP studs (moves the tie-rod to the back of the axle)
-1.5”x6.75” PSC hydro-assist ram and PSC ported/tapped steering box (aftermarket steering box mount and brace with waggy pitman arm)
-Warn Superior lock-outs
-4.88 gears and welded spider gears/carrier
-1310 output yoke
-3/8” differential cover
-1”x0.25” DOM tie road and drag link with “1-ton” Chevy tie rod ends
-63.5” WMS
-Rear-Custom 609
-Stock late 70s Ford 9” housing
-Stock early 90s Ford E-350 Van Dana-60 hubs and spindles
-Custom Moser 35-spline 4340 chromo shafts
-Complete aftermarket Moser centersection with 4.88-gears, Daytona pinion support, full 35-spline spool
-Late 70s Chevy disk brakes (controlled with Will-wood adjustable proportioning valve)
-1350 output yoke
-60” WMS

Drivertrain-
-NP-435 4-speed manual transmission from late 70s Ford (4wd).
-Aluminum Novak Conversions adapter with built in transfercase clocking ring
-Completely built Dana-300 transfercase
-JB conversions 4:1 gears
-JB fab twin sticks
-JB conversion 32 spline front AND rear output
-Custom aluminum deep sump (stronger) bottom pan
-Hi-angle rear 4 bolt 32 spline output flange
-1350 front output yoke
-Rear driveshaft is brand new 1350/1350 CV 2”x0.25” DOM
-Front driveshaft is modified stock Jeep shaft. 1310/1350 conversion joints. 1.75”x.120” DOM
-Total Crawl ratio in 1st gear, low, is somewhere near 130:1

Exterior-
-Custom rock sliders/tube fenders/front bumper stinger. 1.75”x.120 DOM
-PoisonSpyder base CJ-7 cage with many extra bars added 1.75”x.120 DOM
-Seats tied to cage/frame with 1.5”x.120” DOM
-Cage tied to frame with 1.75”x.120 DOM and Polybushings
-Front ¼” custom cowl armor
-Rear ¼” custom tub/side armor
-Front and rear bumpers are 2”x4”x0.125” wall box tubing
-Front Superwinch LP8500 with aluminum haws fairlead and synthetic rope (90’x3/8”)
-Decent Maroon paint job with minor trail damage but no major dents (Very clean Jeep)
-Removable windshield with hinge pins
-Cage has a 1/8” sheet metal roof
-‘Round-Eyes’ headlight conversion
-Square LED waterproof rock lights
-17” Hummer H2 Aluminum wheels (4)
-37”x12.5”x17” old style MTRs (some dry rot, lots of tread, decent shape) (4)
-Black cloth half-doors

Interior-
-Corbeau Racing Seats (tied to cage)
-4 point harnesses
-Stewart Warner Gauges (Fuel and Temp do not work)
-Custom flat dash
-Hurculined interior tube (black, decent shape)
-Rubber floormats
-Rear plastic tool/storage box
- Tuffy lockable center console bolted to cage/frame
-15 gallon aluminum fuel cell, half sunken in the rear cargo area
-Custom rear storage (fuel cell shroud)
-No AC and No heater


There is nothing wrong with or broken on this Jeep. Just ready for a change or something with AC/heater/top and possibly 4 seats. I may trade for a Jeep M715, Commando, or 90s Cherokee but really I am interested in cash.

[TexTJ209]

Aw. :( Sorry to hear you're selling it.



You know they make tops for Jeeps and you can add heat and A/C...or if you want to be cool, get an FSJ. :gigem:

[colman]

The long side shaft on the d44 is 74-79 nt fsj

[colman]

Did I miss the price?

[85cj7]

http://www.lsjc.org/board/showthread.php?70465-1985-CJ-7-with-Ford-V-8-built-axles-37-s-and-lots-of-custom-touches&p=780225#post780225

That is the "I'm not sure I want to sell, but money talks" price.

[FJAggie07]

http://www.lsjc.org/board/showthread.php?70465-1985-CJ-7-with-Ford-V-8-built-axles-37-s-and-lots-of-custom-touches&p=780225#post780225

That is the "I'm not sure I want to sell, but money talks" price.

I hope it sells at that price! If it does I am kicking my own ass for selling my buggy at $10K!

[TdmayfieldIV]

http://www.lsjc.org/board/showthread.php?70465-1985-cj-7-with-ford-v-8-built-axles-37-s-and-lots-of-custom-touches&p=780225#post780225

that is the "cheap to the prince of dubai " price.

fify

[KrazyKarl02]

I wish you luck in this, and not to be a jack ass, but my neighbor's CJ took some time and his was a 1979 CJ with 44" tires, Dana 60, Chromo shafts, LS engine, Atlas transfer case, narrowed rear, air shocked and linked rear for 14k, and it was equally clean, maybe not as original looking

[85cj7]

I sheared a 9/16" ARP stud off the drivers side d-44 high steer arm/knuckle. I must have put it in a bind and hydro assist took care of the rest.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/20141108_160635_zpssosbyysw.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/20141108_160635_zpssosbyysw.jpg.html)

[AggieTJ2007]

I sheared a 9/16" ARP stud off the drivers side d-44 high steer arm/knuckle. I must have put it in a bind and hydro assist took care of the rest.

I would bet that they were loose. Check the torque on the bolts next time before you put it on the trailer.

[KrazyKarl02]

On my 60 those loosen up, have to hit them with the impact. I guess it's not the stud that loosens, but the nut... That and t-case bolts once you get some gears in them don't seem to like to stay tight.

[85cj7]

The jeep was looking a little run down. A few coats of Rustoleum hammered black and some black vinyl spray paint and we're looking good again.



http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/20141207_155409_zpswluslctx.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/20141207_155409_zpswluslctx.jpg.html)

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/20141207_155418_zps4ejjrt9f.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/20141207_155418_zps4ejjrt9f.jpg.html)

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/20141207_155435_zpsexcxckuz.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/20141207_155435_zpsexcxckuz.jpg.html)

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/20141207_155544_zps6ecw3qrc.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/20141207_155544_zps6ecw3qrc.jpg.html)

[85cj7]

Crushed the tail lights in clayton. 4.5inch hole saw and some cheap amazon leds and we're back in business.

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/20150126_175558_zpswgqqdgv4.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/20150126_175558_zpswgqqdgv4.jpg.html)

[85cj7]

Found a good deal on some new rollers for the jeep. It'll hold down the driveway nicely.

17 inch raceline beadlocks and 39.5x13x17 iroks.

Also mounted a new set of 14inch bilstein 5125 for the front.

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/20150201_164737_zpsdrvalqc1.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/20150201_164737_zpsdrvalqc1.jpg.html)

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/20150201_164800_zpscezmrksm.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/20150201_164800_zpscezmrksm.jpg.html)

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/20150201_164845_zpsr1m3pcdb.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/20150201_164845_zpsr1m3pcdb.jpg.html)

[KrazyKarl02]

Pimp, oh and iroks suck!

[Sharpe]

Need to body work the old bolt hole a little more.

[stx4wheeler]

Did they come with a man sized front axle to?

Rims look nice!

[85cj7]

Cracked the can on the PS pump in Clayton (which was the reason for the whining pump/vomiting fluid). Cracked at the upper fitting. PSC rebuilt the pump and replaced the can and are shipping it back to me.

Also sheared another d-44 high steer arm stud off. . . . same side/same stud as before. Pulled the knuckle off and worked the broken stud out. Damn things keep loosening up. Went ahead and replaced the balljoints and spindle bearings since I was in there. Replaced the high steer studs, cones and nuts and red-Loctite them into place.

[85cj7]

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/20150207_172701_zpsaikcf6lf.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/20150207_172701_zpsaikcf6lf.jpg.html)

[tommy53002]

what is the non threaded portion on the stud for?

[85cj7]

I suspect it is so you can bottom out the stud threads on the knuckle to tighten it down.

[Fredo]

You are not supposed to bottom the studs out. Only install the studs into the top of the knuckle by hand. Leave a 16th of slack or so from tight. They are supposed to be in tension, but not torqued into the knuckle. The non-threaded portion is so that the high steer arm and stud have a tighter fit than if it were just threaded all the way.

[tommy53002]

The non-threaded portion is so that the high steer arm and stud have a tighter fit than if it were just threaded all the way.

maybe i'm missing something here, but it appears that all of the non-threaded portion of the stud will be concealed by the knuckle. If your reasoning was correct, shouldn't the non-threaded portion be more in the center of the stud?

[tigweld]

That smooth part is the middle of the stud. The other treaded portion is broke off

[85cj7]

maybe i'm missing something here, but it appears that all of the non-threaded portion of the stud will be concealed by the knuckle. If your reasoning was correct, shouldn't the non-threaded portion be more in the center of the stud?

Here is an earlier pic that shows a comparison.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?8688-Roxanne-1985-Cj-7&p=300795&viewfull=1#post300795

[tommy53002]

That smooth part is the middle of the stud. The other treaded portion is broke off

...now I get it....

[85cj7]

I rearranged the back of the jeep. Artec quart crate, swag offroad action packer mount. I need to find a cooler to mount next to the quart crate. Everything is now easy to access and secured in case of a roll over.

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/20150329_192419_zpsy5rp7o7v.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/20150329_192419_zpsy5rp7o7v.jpg.html)

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/20150329_192451_zpsqgjqergl.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/20150329_192451_zpsqgjqergl.jpg.html)

[tommy53002]

Looks good.

[mudtoy67]

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/20150329_192451_zpsqgjqergl.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/20150329_192451_zpsqgjqergl.jpg.html)

Your oil quarts are in there backward. ;)

[Seth]

So the action packer is under what looks like a tool case? What holds that down?

Also, those chinese coolers the crosby guys run can be tied down but still down opened. Price is right. Otherwise just pick up a yeti roadie or appropriate knock off.

[85cj7]

Your oil quarts are in there backward. ;)

Thanks. :gigem:


So the action packer is under what looks like a tool case? What holds that down?

Also, those chinese coolers the crosby guys run can be tied down but still down opened. Price is right. Otherwise just pick up a yeti roadie or appropriate knock off.

Yes, http://www.swagoffroad.com/8-Gallon-Rubber-Maid-Action-Packer-Baja-Bins_p_35.html

There are (8) 1/4" bolts that hold the action packer mount to the floor. I am going to get a 1" cambuckle strap, or something similar, to hold the craftsman tool case to the rails on the actionpacker. Haven't really thought about it yet.

Thanks for the heads up on the cooler.

[AggieTJ2007]

I think your quart bottles are in backwards

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Your oil quarts are in there backward. ;)


I think your quart bottles are in backwards


Hey Pete, meet RePete! :flipoff3:

[85cj7]

I've never been happy with the stock battery tray. It was bulky, ugly, and required a bungee cord to keep the battery in place. I replaced it with a generic 11" racing tray from A&M Manufacturing. I also took the time to patch all the holes in the firewall.

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/20150926_155425_zpss6ko8k7o.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/20150926_155425_zpss6ko8k7o.jpg.html)

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/20151004_155324_zpslw36o5oh.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/20151004_155324_zpslw36o5oh.jpg.html)

[TexTJ209]

Did you do any kind of reinforcement on the other side of the firewall?

I've been looking at battery trays since mine is pretty crispy. I was leaning towards the Tomken dual tray, as CJ specific options have really dried up in the past few years..

[85cj7]

Did you do any kind of reinforcement on the other side of the firewall?

I've been looking at battery trays since mine is pretty crispy. I was leaning towards the Tomken dual tray, as CJ specific options have really dried up in the past few years..

Two of the four bolts use the stock mounting locations for the battery tray which have a reinforcement plate on the inside of the firewall. The other two bolts I welded fender washers to the engine side of the firewall to double the wall thickness of the firewall and used fender washers on the inside of the firewall as well. You can see one in the photo above. It is the upper mount on the left-hand (pass.) side.

It was nearly impossible to find a battery tray for a regular battery. All the jeep fab battery trays are specific to Optima or Olympus batteries and I don't run one of those.

This is the one I used. The battery hold down is janky (I'll make my own) and I had to modify the mounting points but it was still a good starting point, especially for the price.
https://www.aa-mfg.com/battery-box

[TexTJ209]

Cool, looks good man! And yeah, like I said the CJ market is pretty bare bones on battery trays these days...

And of course this is my CJ currently so it'll be a while before I need a battery tray. haha


http://i.imgur.com/gOqdVec.jpg

[robertf03]

is a yj not the same as a cj battery tray? maybe the fender support brace is a different length, but the firewall is basically the same piece

[TexTJ209]

Most battery trays I see are listed as 76-90 CJ/YJ.

[robertf03]

i know the floorpan got big changes around 91, didnt think the firewall was that different

[colman]

where did you get your cowl protection?

[85cj7]

where did you get your cowl protection?

I think it was these guys......http://moab-4x4.com/.......but it looks like their web-store is down.

[85cj7]

Wheeled in Bridgeport on Saturday. Got a bit tippy at one point.

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/IMG_2610_zps66wuapxs.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/IMG_2610_zps66wuapxs.jpg.html)

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/IMG_2611_zpslibf3ra9.jpg (http://s406.photobucket.com/user/rkblankenship/media/IMG_2611_zpslibf3ra9.jpg.html)

No real damage done but it was close to being a really bad roll.

[KrazyKarl02]

That's a sticky situation...

[Sharpe]

Stay running?

[85cj7]

For a little while.

It started right back up once upright.

[JB]

Damn!

[davido]

Holy crap man.

Was your butt still too puckered up to drive to Clayton? :)

That's the closest I think I've ever seen without going over. Wild. Glad you're OK.

[85cj7]

The Jeep is back up for sale and I'm pretty serious about it this time.

New price of $9,999.

Let me know if you know anyone who is interested.

[tommy53002]

What are the plans if it sells?

[85cj7]

Buy a street legal camping rig. I would trade for a 4x4 Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, Land Cruiser, Tacoma, or the like.

[KrazyKarl02]

4x4 Cherokees are $1000 vehicles.

[tommy53002]

Buy a street legal camping rig. I would trade for a 4x4 Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, Land Cruiser, Tacoma, or the like.

What is so "un" street legal about your CJ? Isn't it a full body CJ? Why not just make some modifications to make it more street freindly?

[AggieTJ2007]

I understand. I am looking for a 4 seater chassis that is more street friendly and not so beat up

[85cj7]

The jeep is sold. It goes to it's new home in Royse City tomorrow.

[tommy53002]

The jeep is sold. It goes to it's new home in Royse City tomorrow.

So, are you searching for a camping rig now?

[85cj7]

Yes I am. Know of one?