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agjohn02
03-19-2007, 08:03 PM
My dad wheels his stock CJ around the ranch and took it to Gilmer with me once. It couldn't hang with the Scout ;) and he caught the bug. He decided he wanted to buy a built CJ to wheel hard and keep his stock for ranch driving. After having a couple of deals fall through, he decided he wanted to build his CJ up. After contemplating having to drive a lifted jeep everytime he wants to ride around and evolving plans from a simple one ton swap to a full on build, we decided to build a YJ/CJ instead and keep the other stock. So, I give you, project "Ranger One". The stock CJ will be demoted to "Ranger Two".

agjohn02
03-19-2007, 08:15 PM
First order of business was to get the axles stripped, cleaned and built. The front is a Chevy SRW Dana 60. Gear ratio is 5.13:1 with a Detroit Locker and 35 spline Yukon alloy shafts with forged Dana joints. The cover is a kit from Roughstuff and the pinion joint is 1410.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10104&d=1174353178

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10105&d=1174353178

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10106&d=1174353178

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10107&d=1174353178

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10108&d=1174353178

agjohn02
03-19-2007, 08:22 PM
-kingpin removal
-cover ground down
-checking ring gear run-out
-backlash at 7 thou

unless you knew it you wouldnt realize i got rid of one bolt hole. i didnt see the tradeoff of work versus at most another 3/8" of clearance to cut and plate the bottom. I did add a ramp to the backside of the lip.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10109&d=1174353600

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10110&d=1174353600

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10111&d=1174353600

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10112&d=1174353600

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10114&d=1174353723

agjohn02
03-19-2007, 08:39 PM
Rear axle is the obligatory GM 14FF. Again, 5.13:1 ratio, Detroit Locker, 1410 pinion yoke and Roughstuff cover. I'm running GM 3/4 ton disc brakes for their simplicity, cost, and availability. I had other ideas but this turned out to be the easiest and probably most effective set-up.

Again, the reason I bought covers in kit form instead of welded is because I was going to cut and plate the bottom and machine the ring gear O.D. This gives somewhere in the neighborhood of 2.5", IIRC, of added clearance. After considering that it wont be my rig to wrench on, my dad doesnt like turning wrenches, and any repairs will most likely be done by normal auto shops in Mt. Pleasant, I decided to forego the severe trim and leave the ring gear in stock form. I still gained a good 1.5" or so. There's a lot of beef to be cut away there. It's not a 14 bolt anymore.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10115&d=1174354615

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10116&d=1174354615

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10117&d=1174354615

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10119&d=1174354615

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10120&d=1174354767

bcolman
03-19-2007, 08:50 PM
looking good

redcagepatrol
03-19-2007, 08:57 PM
bought time you started a thread...

agjohn02
03-19-2007, 09:08 PM
Next, I stripped the jeep and all the bracketry off of the YJ frame and started on the front suspension. It'll be riding on Rubicon Express 1.5" YJ SOA springs. I got 6 leaf for the front and 5 leaf for the rear. There will be no front anti-wrap bar, so I wanted the extra leaf to combat axle wrap. I didnt jump on the 44044 bandwagon for two reasons, three really. Since this will be a ranch cruiser as well as a trail rig, ride quality is a major concern. I thought springs with rates designed for a lighter vehicle and less lift would ride better. We shall see if that holds true. Secondly, I originally planned to build it low and these seemed to be better suited for that. However, I dont think it's going to turn out too low after all. Lastly, I just wanted to be different than all the cool kids.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10121&d=1174356529

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10122&d=1174356529

agjohn02
03-19-2007, 09:14 PM
-stretched the frame 2" in the front
-front spring hangers
-front shackle hangers

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10123&d=1174356850

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10124&d=1174356850

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10125&d=1174356850

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10126&d=1174356850

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10127&d=1174356850

redcagepatrol
03-19-2007, 09:28 PM
Man - you AND Cody put the square tube seam on the outside of the bumper!!! That's one of my pet peeves, looks like crap painted - sucker :flipoff2:

EDIT - other than that, pretty nice fab work :gigem:

agjohn02
03-19-2007, 09:30 PM
i did that on purpose. you'll see why later.

uglyota
03-19-2007, 09:31 PM
maybe it's just the camera angle...

but I think your frame's tweaked :flipoff2:

redcagepatrol
03-19-2007, 09:31 PM
pinstripe? got me interested now...

agjohn02
03-19-2007, 09:42 PM
Tub came off and rear suspension and bumper went on. I stretched it as much as I could. I was originally going to stay away from a full comp cut since I don't particularly like the way it looks, but finally decided to follow function over form, plus, my dad favors the full comp cut. I will probably have to trim the ends of rear bumper and definately move the body mounts.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10128&d=1174358500

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10129&d=1174358500

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10130&d=1174358500

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10131&d=1174358500

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10132&d=1174358500

agjohn02
03-19-2007, 09:51 PM
-rear dogleg shackles
-bumper

I decided to go ahead and build these shackles and put them in front of the bumper. They are at a pretty good angle, but they allow plenty of movement to allow the springs to cycle fully and will result in a lower spring rate, giving a smoother ride. I left room on the back of the bumper for hangers in case I need to move them out there after everything settles.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10133&d=1174359081

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10134&d=1174359081

agjohn02
03-19-2007, 10:01 PM
Front shackles. I apparently didn't take a pic of them. This is the best I could find.

colman
03-19-2007, 10:16 PM
whats with the offset of the shaxkes, that zig zag thing

CRaSHnBuRN
03-19-2007, 10:55 PM
whats with the offset of the shaxkes, that zig zag thing

full width axle = wider hangers and shackles?

CheapJeep
03-19-2007, 11:08 PM
Nice work John, I'd heard rumors of the build and have been awaiting pics.


It'll be riding on Rubicon Express 1.5" YJ SOA springs. I got 6 leaf for the front and 5 leaf for the rear. Lastly, I just wanted to be different than all the cool kids.
I have the same exact springs on my CJ-5 and love them. I still run them in the front but the rear has stock xjs now.

BMFScout
03-20-2007, 07:00 AM
Man - you AND Cody put the square tube seam on the outside of the bumper!!! That's one of my pet peeves, looks like crap painted - sucker :flipoff2:



Fred too, but I think he might have used some filler to hide it.

Looks badass John! :gigem:

agjohn02
03-20-2007, 08:59 AM
full width axle = wider hangers and shackles?


That is affirmative. The fronts are outboarded 5/8" and the shackles are offset 3/8". The 1/8" at the center pin didnt matter too much... thats what bushings are for right? It was too easy to just use the 3/8" strap I had for the offset shackles to worry about that detail.

agjohn02
03-20-2007, 09:00 AM
I have the same exact springs on my CJ-5 and love them. I still run them in the front but the rear has stock xjs now.


Speaking of XJ springs. I saw an XJ at Bryan Iron and Metal the other day if anybody needs a set.

agjohn02
03-20-2007, 09:07 AM
Question: Should I put cross braces in the shackles? On the rear, I think they would be in the way of either the spring in bump or the frame in rebound. On the front I think they would be fine. I made a pair for the front but forgot to take into account the wider space due to the offset, so they are too short and I would have to make another set. Would they improve street manners (i.e.- body sway) enough to justify the lathe time?

redcagepatrol
03-20-2007, 11:11 AM
don't use braces - they are :rainbow:

agjohn02
03-20-2007, 11:43 AM
don't use braces - they are :rainbow:


Now THAT'S a quality engineering decision! Did they teach you the gayometer standard at El Paso? :flipoff2:

CRaSHnBuRN
03-20-2007, 12:58 PM
I really don't think braced shackles do you much good, unless you have super long mall crawler ones.

Sharpe
03-20-2007, 01:05 PM
Man - you AND Cody put the square tube seam on the outside of the bumper!!! That's one of my pet peeves, looks like crap painted - sucker :flipoff2:
I almost did that with my sliders without noticing but the hippy pointed it out to me so I went seam down. :gigem:

DRAGOONRANCH
03-20-2007, 01:18 PM
It's the little things that count. ;)

John, is this the one that was just the frame when I came to pick up the heep from ya?

agjohn02
03-20-2007, 02:30 PM
I really don't think braced shackles do you much good, unless you have super long mall crawler ones.


I dont know what makes long shackles "mall crawler" equipment, but did you not see the picture of mine? I think they are on 7" centers.

agjohn02
03-20-2007, 02:34 PM
I almost did that with my sliders without noticing but the hippy pointed it out to me so I went seam down. :gigem:


It's always a good idea to put the weak side of the structure toward the greatest stress... :rolleyes:, but then Pigpen is all about good appearance, right? ;)

agjohn02
03-20-2007, 02:46 PM
John, is this the one that was just the frame when I came to pick up the heep from ya?


Roger that

DRAGOONRANCH
03-20-2007, 03:02 PM
Ok, now this all makes sense. Just checkin.

Just had some work roll in the gate so will discuss more with you later.

Jackasic
03-20-2007, 03:18 PM
show some real picsv ;) BTW, did I leave my keys in the shop?

BMFScout
03-20-2007, 03:22 PM
Do you think the seam on a piece of square tubing is going to break? And if so why did you put it forward? I think longer shackles are neato, I need some longer ones for the rear of the Belle, inverted one at Katemcy.

agjohn02
03-20-2007, 03:38 PM
did I leave my keys in the shop?


Haven't seen them but I'll look today. Can you not get it there without them?

agjohn02
03-20-2007, 03:47 PM
Do you think the seam on a piece of square tubing is going to break?

It'll break before the seamless side will. Unless you just weld the whole tube to sheetmetal with no re-enforcing. Then it will just cave in the whole side of your cab. ;)

Sharpe
03-20-2007, 09:22 PM
It's always a good idea to put the weak side of the structure toward the greatest stress... :rolleyes:

So thats why you put the seam on the OUTSIDE of your bumper?

Methinks I'll have bigger fish to fry if 3x6 1/4 wall slider ruptures at the seam.

Sharpe
03-20-2007, 09:23 PM
It'll break before the seamless side will. Unless you just weld the whole tube to sheetmetal with no re-enforcing. Then it will just cave in the whole side of your cab. ;)
***** :flipoff2:

agjohn02
03-20-2007, 11:47 PM
Ok, enough about the friggin' seam on the bumper already. You won't see it by the time I'm done with it.

On with the build...

Once I had all the suspension hardpoints on, I bolted the axles under it and started working on the drivetrain. The engine is a GM 5.3L V8 from a 2002 Chevy Truck. The transmission is a 4L60E 4 speed auto from a 2003 Chevy Suburban. It's the new style with a removable bell housing and six bolts on the rear. Steve at A Pick-up Parts in Houston threw in the NP241 adapter for free. I got everything with it except a starter. I forgot to ask for it, but other than that he was willing to let me pull parts that were missing off of other engines. He even let me have an extra wiring harness because there was some damage to the one on it. I got a starter at Doggett's along with about $50 worth of free accessory bolts. If you need any GM metric bolts for one of these engines, go to the junkyard. They pull the accessories off of the engines either before or during pulling them out of the trucks and throw all the bolts in the bed.

edit: I just realized that I need to clarify for this bunch. They let me have the bolts for free. I did not steal them!

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10165&d=1174452221

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10166&d=1174452221

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10167&d=1174452221

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10168&d=1174452656

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10169&d=1174452656

fbronco86
03-21-2007, 05:58 AM
Everything you go to pick-a-part you have to steel something just to cover the $2 entry fee. I normally take some extra injectors and fuses.

Fredo
03-21-2007, 12:18 PM
not trying to start ****, but curious. Did you verify that your motor is actually a 5.3?

agjohn02
03-21-2007, 12:47 PM
not trying to start ****, but curious. Did you verify that your motor is actually a 5.3?

Yes, I learned that from the Great Brune Debacle of '05-06. I carried a pen light and a spark plug wrench with me. After tons of research by me and a GM service manager, it is concluded that piston inspection is the only way to tell the difference.

Fredo
03-21-2007, 12:50 PM
You can also pop the oil pan off and tell by the crank/rods, but who wants to do that?

agjohn02
03-21-2007, 12:59 PM
Exactly. You'd have to measure the throw. There are no stampings I know of to denote a diffence, is there? Do they actually use different rods or are the wrist pins just moved down on the 4.8 pistons?

Fredo
03-21-2007, 01:53 PM
I can't remember if it's marked 4.8 on the rods or there is an actual casting number, but I remember there was something on the inside where we were able to tell.

agjohn02
03-25-2007, 06:45 PM
Found a couple more pics of the springs and axles under the frame and my in-lb torque wrench for checking pinion bearing pre-load.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10181&d=1174866275

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10182&d=1174866275

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10183&d=1174866275

CheapJeep
03-25-2007, 06:57 PM
Nice work, it looks good. What's all that tube for besides a cage?

AggieTJ2007
03-25-2007, 07:01 PM
thats really not that much tube

agjohn02
03-25-2007, 07:22 PM
I test fit Ed's Dana 300 on my NP241 adapter to tell if what I had heard was true. Sure enough it fit with the exception of one bolt hole. That hole was very close to being in line and clearly could be elongated with a rat tail file and work fine. Even the alignment boss is the right size. After getting it cleaned up, I bolted my t-case up to it to check spline engagement. The factory NP241 engages 1.5" of the 4L60E output shaft and the new t-case engages ~1.125". The 27 spline shaft is around 1" in diameter, so I feel confident that this is enough to not worry about the difference. I ordered the STAK with a 27 spline input. This enabled me to use the factory adapter. $500 knocked off the cost right there. The low range is 4.3:1 for two reasons. I have never felt the need for lower gearing in the Scout with the auto and viscous coupling of the T/C and I wanted to be able to maintain good wheel speed in low range for the looser surface this jeep will see around home. The Scout crawl ratio is around 69:1 and this jeep will be in the neighborhood of 135:1. I bolted the drivetrain together and got ready to mount it in the chassis.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10194&d=1174869436

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10185&d=1174867611

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10186&d=1174867611

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10187&d=1174867611

agjohn02
03-25-2007, 07:26 PM
thats really not that much tube


This is true. I may need another stick. Anybody got one? 1.75"x.120" DOM

agjohn02
03-25-2007, 07:34 PM
Here's the adapter with the hole modified. It is the one to the lower left.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10192&d=1174869240

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10193&d=1174869240

robertf03
03-25-2007, 09:12 PM
whats so revolutionary about the 241 having the same pattern as a 300? I think all of those round pattern NP cases share that pattern along with the 300 and a few BW cases.

the splines are different, so its not like its a free adapter.

BMFScout
03-25-2007, 10:09 PM
That's my stool.

agjohn02
03-25-2007, 10:59 PM
whats so revolutionary about the 241 having the same pattern as a 300? I think all of those round pattern NP cases share that pattern along with the 300 and a few BW cases.

the splines are different, so its not like its a free adapter.


No, but its a cheap adapter if you get a 27 spline input for your 300 from Novak. In my case, however, it was free.

uglyota
03-26-2007, 09:01 PM
That's my stool.
I always thought that was a grinder stand :confused2:

agjohn02
03-26-2007, 10:07 PM
I always thought that was a grinder stand :confused2:


I think it was a vice stand at one point too. Not anymore though. Brandon has learned the joy of a heavy table with a good vice bolted to it.

agjohn02
03-28-2007, 08:43 PM
I set the drivetrain in between the framerails and raised the t-case up against the bottom of the tub. I decided on a drivetrain inclination angle at 5 degrees for two reasons. One, its a nice round number and will help with my rear CV joint angle. Two, at 5 degrees, the bottom of the transmission pan is level. This leads me to believe that GM designed it that way and it must sit at 5 degrees in the trucks. I also offset the entire assembly 1" toward the driver's side to aid the front driveshaft in clearing the 4L60E pan that hangs off to the passenger side. Without cutting the tub out, this left the oil pan, trans and t-case hanging down quite a bit.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10206&d=1175132538

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10207&d=1175132538

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10208&d=1175132538

agjohn02
03-28-2007, 09:03 PM
Obviously, I was going to have to cut out the floor some. After sitting and looking at the contours of the floor, I decided it would be easier to just cut out the contours and rebuild the tunnel from the flat part of the floor. This allowed me to raise the assembly up until the bellhousing was about 1" from the tunnel where it meets the firewall. At this point, the trans pan is just about dead level with the bottom of the framerails and the bottom of the trans mount is about 1/2" below the framerails. I played with the t-case clocking ring and got it up out of the way too. Close enough! The negative side effect is the intake manifold now sticks up above the hoodline. This is one of three inherent problems I've found with the swap. The other two being the deep oil pan and the wide set exhaust manifold outlets. The driver's side manifold dumps almost directly into the top of the framerail. The passenger side, however, will work very well.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10209&d=1175133697

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10211&d=1175133697

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10212&d=1175133697

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10214&d=1175134309

agjohn02
03-28-2007, 09:25 PM
After I got the engine on jack stands where I wanted it, I pulled the tub back off so everything would be easily accessible. I originally planned to use GM clamshell style engine mounts. I put them on the Scout and have been very happy with them and they are easy to work with when fabbing up the rest of the mount. However, with the Y block style of the LS series engines, the clamshell mounts would not fit very well. I then decided to go with a leaf spring bushing style mount. Since this will not be a daily driver, vibration transmmission is of little concern. This style of mount is very robust and also easy to work with while fabricating towers and block plates.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10215&d=1175135034

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10216&d=1175135034

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10217&d=1175135034

agjohn02
03-28-2007, 09:45 PM
Although I hope to not have to work on this Jeep very much (crosses fingers), I didn't want it to be any bigger of a pain to pull the skid plate and service the transmission and/or t-case than it has to be. With this in mind, I decided I wanted the back half of the drivetrain supported by a separate crossmember, not by the skidplate itself. This is what I came up with. Actually, I did this before the engine mounts (ergo, the jackstands still under the oil pan).

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10218&d=1175136255

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10219&d=1175136255

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10220&d=1175136255

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10221&d=1175136255

JeepPhisherman
03-28-2007, 10:08 PM
looks good john

CheapJeep
03-28-2007, 10:21 PM
Look's badass John. :gigem:

redcagepatrol
03-29-2007, 06:01 AM
looks great - again, nice fab work.

DRAGOONRANCH
03-29-2007, 07:19 AM
looks like crap, you suck. :flipoff3:

Sharpe
03-29-2007, 08:49 AM
Did you use poly spring bushings for the motor mounts? Thats what I have in pigpen and the vibration annoys the **** out of me. I am planning on swapping them out for rubber spring bushings eventually but hopefully when my new motor is done it wont vibrate nearly as much. I'm sure the 5.3 doesnt vibrate as much as a 20 year old 6.2 so this probably wont be an issue for you.

agjohn02
03-29-2007, 09:05 AM
I'm using poly. My first set of motor mounts in the Scout were poly bushing style. I don't recall engine vibrations being the problem. It was a rear driveshaft angle problem. I didn't put a CV on it when I did the engine swap. When I did the suspension, I put a CV on and the new motor mounts just for good measure. I hope this 5.3L doesn't vibrate as much as a 20 year old 6.2L diesel with cracked pistons.;)


edit- Thanks for the compliments fellas. Especially you Ed, you're a sweetheart. :flipoff2:

Sharpe
03-29-2007, 09:07 AM
Old motor had cracked pistons, new one probably doesnt.

BMFScout
03-29-2007, 10:15 AM
The fab looks great, but you need more speedholes. You can never have too many speedholes.

fbronco86
03-29-2007, 10:17 AM
Looks like any other crappy ole jeep to me :flipoff2:

agjohn02
03-29-2007, 10:20 AM
The fab looks great, but you need more speedholes. You can't ever have too many speedholes.


Holesaws are expensive! One of these days ill have a job [shudder] and I'll be a dimple die fool.

Jackasic
03-29-2007, 11:50 AM
post up some current pics, i haven't owned the Benz in months.

DRAGOONRANCH
03-29-2007, 02:46 PM
edit- Thanks for the compliments fellas. Especially you Ed, you're a sweetheart. :flipoff2:

I love you man....

agjohn02
04-11-2007, 10:43 PM
Next on the agenda was to address the intereference issues I mentioned earlier. I do not like body lifts and did not want to run one. The truck manifold is too tall, the truck pan is too deep and the truck driver's side exhaust manifold dumps into the top of the framerail. All three were dealt with using f-body parts. I put a 2000 LS-1 intake manifold on. That shaved around 6" off of the height of the engine and got the intake under the hood. I had to relocate one idler pulley and cut off the old pulley mount to clear the lower throttle body. I also had to rotate the coolant inlet neck a little to just barely clear the throttle cam. The shorter runners will cost a little low end torque, but I don't think it will be missed with the low gearing. The f-body oil pan is 3" shorter than the deep truck pan but with a longer sump, so the capacity does not suffer. The truck pan simply hung down too low for me to feel comfortable wheeling it like that and cast aluminum oil pans don't dent, they break. I didn't want this rig to be the Exxon Valdez on the trail. The exhaust manifold I got for $5 so that worked out much better than aftermarket headers. It is tucked up closer to the block so it dumps inside the framerail. Plus, I won't have to worry about constantly keeping bolts tight to prevent exhaust leaks.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10331&d=1176349381

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10332&d=1176349381

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10333&d=1176349381

agjohn02
04-12-2007, 11:46 AM
My next step was to build a skid plate to protect the underside. There is a lot of expensive aluminum under there that won't get along well with rocks. I went to Bryan Iron and Metal and got a 4'x6' or so peice of 1/4" mill plate. I notched for the spring shackles and slid it under the jeep. After marking and figuring up what needed to be dropped to clear the crossmember, trans pan and oil pan I decided to have it broken at the fab shop to create a 1" "dip" in the middle. This cleared the crossmember and gave me a comfortable margin between the trans, engine and skid. After I had the basic shape, I built the mounts and stiffened the skid up with some angle and c channel. You can see now why I built the engine mounts beefy. I've still got some additional gussets and stiffners to put in, but that will come after I disassemble for paint.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10339&d=1176396347

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10340&d=1176396347

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10341&d=1176396347

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10342&d=1176396347

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10343&d=1176396347

Reckless
04-12-2007, 11:49 AM
I bet thats a heavy b!tch but looks great.

BMFScout
04-12-2007, 12:02 PM
I thought you were already buidling cage?

redcagepatrol
04-12-2007, 12:04 PM
I thought you were already buidling cage?
I think he is delaying the pics and progress. His cage is ~done

agjohn02
04-12-2007, 12:14 PM
Yes. I am rationing the awesomeness.;)

BMFScout
04-12-2007, 12:28 PM
Yes. I am rationing the awesomeness.;)

I think you're bringing the :rainbow:ness :flipoff2:

agjohn02
04-12-2007, 12:32 PM
I just dont have the time or desire to sit here and type it all up at once.

Sharpe
04-12-2007, 01:22 PM
How are you planning on actuating the t-case e-brake? I have one on pigpen but I havent hooked it up yet. It was previously on my burban and I hooked it up using the factory cable with a little pulley on the frame rail but it never worked very well that way.

agjohn02
04-12-2007, 01:31 PM
I've got a hand operated parking brake and a cable. I havent gotten around to looking at how they will connect. I'm sure it will involve a custom bracket at the caliper.

Sharpe
04-12-2007, 01:41 PM
Once you get it set up I may come take a gander. Is the hand brake an aftermarket one? I know Lokar makes one but I've never seen one in person so I dont know how the cable is set up.

agjohn02
04-12-2007, 01:48 PM
Once you get it set up I may come take a gander. Is the hand brake an aftermarket one? I know Lokar makes one but I've never seen one in person so I dont know how the cable is set up.



No, i got this one out of Brandon's VW whatever before I dropped it off at the junkyard.

I think I remember seeing the Lokar brake in one of Scott's pics.

TxCruzr
04-12-2007, 06:25 PM
Thats the same way cruisers t-case ebrake works if you need something to look at to get an idea from. Small handle under the dash that you pull out.

agjohn02
04-12-2007, 06:45 PM
Thats the same way cruisers t-case ebrake works if you need something to look at to get an idea from. Small handle under the dash that you pull out.


Got any pics?

robertf03
04-12-2007, 06:56 PM
just like the willys and kaiser era jeeps. maybe you can get a handle from brent mullins

http://www.science.smith.edu/~ejensen/willys/cj2a/images/day1/day1-13.jpg

AggieTJ2007
04-12-2007, 07:00 PM
you should help davido set his up he as one that isn't connected either

TxCruzr
04-12-2007, 08:07 PM
I think I might, if not I can probably find some.

fbronco86
04-13-2007, 05:46 AM
Thats the same way cruisers t-case ebrake works if you need something to look at to get an idea from. Small handle under the dash that you pull out.

I was thinking of running one of those for my bronco. I want to keep the floor board clean as I can. 1981 ford couier had them too. Dont some of the older toyota trucks have them?

BMFScout
04-13-2007, 06:39 AM
toyoty trucks have them, I guess 4 runners too, underneath the dash on the right side of the steering wheel.

JeepPhisherman
04-13-2007, 07:12 AM
Toyota still used that ebrake configuration, I believe. Have the same thing in my 98.

jerryg79
04-13-2007, 07:13 AM
old mazda's have it too.

redcagepatrol
04-13-2007, 07:20 AM
This is what Troy and I did after cracking a cast oil pan. He is still running it today...
http://offroadrepublic.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=46817

CRaSHnBuRN
04-13-2007, 08:17 AM
Toyota still used that ebrake configuration, I believe. Have the same thing in my 98.

I want to say I even had one in my 05 tacoma, so they should be real easy to find. If I remember correctly the end of the cable attaches to the handle with a pin, so you can just unbolt the handle and unpin the cable and its out of the truck. Then just rig up a new cable system to match your needs and pin it to the handle

TxCruzr
04-13-2007, 10:20 AM
found this schematic for you

Reckless
04-13-2007, 11:35 AM
A yota one would be perfect

JeepPhisherman
04-13-2007, 12:19 PM
I'll snap a picture of mine tonight, looks a little different than that schematic, but it should be something you could find easily in a yard.

agjohn02
04-13-2007, 12:56 PM
I was referring to how the cable connects to the e-brake. I thought you meant cruisers used t-case e-brakes. I'm happy with the hand lever I have, I think.

TxCruzr
04-13-2007, 01:02 PM
oh, gotcha, I'll see what I can hunt up. If I can't find any, I have a spare case sitting at home with the parking brake on it. I'll get my dad to get some pics this weekend.

agjohn02
04-13-2007, 01:05 PM
Although, the dash mounted lever would open up some room on the floor between the seats. hmm....

agjohn02
04-14-2007, 09:09 AM
One more of the skid. This is another reason I wanted the f-body pan. It still may need a little trimming for the oil filter.

mudtoy67
04-14-2007, 01:25 PM
One more of the skid. This is another reason I wanted the f-body pan. It still may need a little trimming for the oil filter.

Sweet project John. Perhaps a ramp built in to the drain plug notch would also be a good idea...keep the drips from makin a mess in the skid plate.

agjohn02
04-14-2007, 01:42 PM
Sweet project John. Perhaps a ramp built in to the drain plug notch would also be a good idea...keep the drips from makin a mess in the skid plate.


I definately thought of that. After looking at it, it would get too close to the pan. I'm afraid it would deflect up into the pan under load. Besides, I think the biggest part of the mess will be from the filter when it comes off. I've got some other ideas I'm going to try. Something to contain the mess and make it easy to clean out. Yes, Jimmy, it may involve speedholes.

BMFScout
04-16-2007, 08:37 AM
Put a twist lock thingy that you can attach a hose to like an airplane/boat. Then when you smash it on a rock, it'll empty the contents of your oilpan all over the trail. It'll be like a James Bond car except different.

TMatheaus
04-16-2007, 04:27 PM
can you do a filter relocation kit on it

agjohn02
04-16-2007, 07:25 PM
Hmm, I'll have to look into that. Thanks for the idea.

robertf03
04-16-2007, 08:27 PM
Hmm, I'll have to look into that. Thanks for the idea.

does this mean its already done and you are sitting on another picture? :flipoff2:

agjohn02
04-24-2007, 12:43 AM
Built a rear anti-wrap/traction/ladder bar. I used a Roughstuff kit at the axle end and two Johnny Joints at the frame end. I still havent decided what kind of bracing I want to put in the middle though. I don't remember what the anti-squat numbers were, but they suck. Just a fact you have to live with when doing one of these. The tube is 1.75"x.120" wall.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10451&d=1177393385

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10452&d=1177393385

agjohn02
04-24-2007, 12:48 AM
Since I built the ladder bar to use long shackles, I needed more clearance than the stock floor allowed. I also needed more room for the front and rear driveshafts and exhaust, so I cut a little more out of the floor.

agjohn02
04-24-2007, 12:53 AM
Then I mocked it up, framed it up, and built it. It's .063" sheet and some 1" flat bar and angle iron.


I had been dissappointed that I didn't find a Ford driver's side drop front axle until I got this done. It would have seriously hampered driver's foot room to do a mirror image of this thing, but it's not too bad as a passenger without a pedal to reach.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10454&d=1177394031

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10455&d=1177394031

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10456&d=1177394031

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10457&d=1177394031

Reckless
04-24-2007, 12:56 AM
Blingin!

redcagepatrol
04-24-2007, 06:40 AM
holy crap! did you weld that all the way down or is there a brake in there? Still not sure what my plans are yet, might have to use some of this design...

agjohn02
04-24-2007, 09:44 AM
It's 11 separate peices with 7 small "breaks" I did with a torch and the edge of my table. It was much easier to cut the sides into smaller peices and fit them to the floor rather than try to fit it all the way down at once. All of the breaks are yellow in this pic. Everything else is welded.

mudtoy67
04-24-2007, 12:31 PM
You didn't want to make the trans tunnel removable for ease of transmission-engine bolting?


The Jeep is looking awesome! :)

agjohn02
04-24-2007, 12:35 PM
The only bolts you need to get to are the top adapter bolts and they are easily accessible through the cover.

agjohn02
04-24-2007, 12:36 PM
Ah, you mean the bellhousing bolts. There is enough room between the firewall and engine to get to them.

redcagepatrol
04-24-2007, 05:28 PM
can you get to your front driveshaft bolts without dropping the skid?

agjohn02
04-24-2007, 11:02 PM
It'll need more trimming. I left extra on it since I don't have a driveshaft to test fit. I plan to try to get it trimmed back far enough to be able to reach them.

agjohn02
04-26-2007, 01:08 PM
Not running a body lift is not the easiest way to do this project, but it makes it more fun. The YJ frame is higher in the front than a CJ frame and a YJ grill is shorter heightwise than a CJ grill. This makes the CJ grill sit higher than the front than a YJ grill and the hood rises as it goes forward and does not follow the body lines. In order to get the hood to sit level, the CJ grill has to be set lower. There are two ways to do this. One is to notch the corners out of the CJ grill and set it down between the framerails, but I think that would look pretty crappy. So, I sectioned 1.75" out of the grill.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10483&d=1177610808

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10484&d=1177610808

AggieTJ2007
04-26-2007, 01:12 PM
looks pretty good

redcagepatrol
04-26-2007, 01:16 PM
you must like extra work! Where do you find the time :eek:

Looks great though :gigem:

BMFScout
04-26-2007, 01:59 PM
nice!

fbronco86
04-26-2007, 02:35 PM
looks pretty good

Yeah looks cool from the front side. Lets see the weld on the back side. :gigem:

agjohn02
04-26-2007, 02:41 PM
Yeah looks cool from the front side. Lets see the weld on the back side. :gigem:



Jealousy is a dish best served warm. With cookies.

BMFScout
04-26-2007, 03:21 PM
It's no Scout tailgate, but it's alright. :flipoff2:

fbronco86
04-27-2007, 07:04 AM
Jealousy is a dish best served warm. With cookies.


Please its just a jeep.

BMFScout
04-27-2007, 09:43 AM
So I'm guessing this will probably be at Katemcy this weekend?

Jackasic
04-27-2007, 11:21 AM
it will be lucky to be done by Clayton in December.

agjohn02
04-27-2007, 11:44 AM
it will be lucky to be done by Clayton in December.


OH, THE IRONY.....!!!

Jackasic
04-27-2007, 12:28 PM
maybe, but someone else isn't paying to do the work and asking for a schedule ;)

BMFScout
04-27-2007, 01:19 PM
Roomate problems again John?! ;)

agjohn02
04-27-2007, 01:45 PM
No, other than him being his usual jackass self, everything is fine as far as I know.

Jackasic
04-27-2007, 03:56 PM
but your such an easy target, so soft and easily riled ;)

davido
04-28-2007, 10:41 PM
you should help davido set his up he as one that isn't connected either


Connected? I just put a screwdriver through the hole in the disk if I want to hold it in place. :) You need to keep the hand brake for drifting. :gigem:


The rig looks awesome John. Lots of hours on the business end of a grinder. It's neat to see the evolution of the rigs just in our own little club. Really cool rig!

agjohn02
05-10-2007, 04:03 PM
I mounted the grill using a piece of tube and the old YJ mount. The winch is mounted on a piece of plate welded between the grill crossmember and the bumper. I still need a fairlead, this one is mine. Scott pointed me toward a good deal on the winch. I was originally planning on running a 8274. This is a 9.5ti (bling). This and the sunken fairlead are the reasons I put the seam on the outside of the bumper. I needed the smooth inside wall on the back so I wouldn't have to grind it down to get the fairlead to sit flat and I didnt want to mount the 8274 to the "weak" side of the tube. The seam is gone. Happy now Scott?

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10565&d=1178830871

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10566&d=1178830904

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10567&d=1178830910

redcagepatrol
05-10-2007, 04:09 PM
you have WAY too much time! Nice winch... I don't think I could spend that much time on a winch mount...

davido
05-10-2007, 04:12 PM
....and you know I couldn't.


I have a roller fairlead for you John. It's at my house.

TxCruzr
05-10-2007, 04:37 PM
very nice :cool: I like the recessed fairlead a lot

Sharpe
05-10-2007, 06:01 PM
I can still see the seam.

fbronco86
05-10-2007, 10:48 PM
You spend all that time on the winch mount maybe you should cut off those u-bolts on the front axle they look like crap. :flipoff2:

TxCruzr
05-11-2007, 12:05 AM
I finally got those pics of the parking brake but just remembered that you are using a stak so it's probably a disc brake and the cruiser one is a drum. Anywho, if you think they might help you at all, let me know and I'll email them to you.

agjohn02
05-11-2007, 03:00 AM
I can still see the seam.



No you cant. You just think you can.

agjohn02
05-28-2007, 10:53 PM
My dad came down this weekend and helped me work on the Jeep. We finished up the wheels.

They are H1 double beadlocks, recentered with USA6X6 centers, Copperhead Fab rock rings, and kustom inner rock rings. I had the centers turned down to a 14 1/16" diameter so that they would press further down into the wheel to give more backspacing. The centers, as delivered, give 3 5/8" backspacing. This would make the outside width too wide for a standard utility trailer. With the modification, they net 5 1/8" backspacing. I notched the centers so that the studs can be removed in case they ever need replacing. The inner rings are 3/8" bar stock. I clamped it to the rim and bent them around the O.D., then trimmed them down to fit in the wheel. They set right into the bead on the rim like a big snap ring.

As for the actual beadlocks inside the tires, I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. I'm in the process of cutting the runflat off of a stock one to see how it turns out.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10657&d=1180410695

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10658&d=1180410758

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10659&d=1180410798

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10660&d=1180410805

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10661&d=1180410813

bcolman
05-28-2007, 11:14 PM
looking good

agjohn02
06-12-2007, 01:32 AM
I had planned to build my own comp corners but in the interest of saving some time I ordered a set from BTF. I like the line they follow around the corner and had I built my own they would have turned out very similar. After Fed Ex lost them and took two weeks to get them here, I test fit them and was not too happy with the way the "CNC" bent radius fit the corner of the tub. There was about a 3/16" gap due to the radius being to tight. No big deal, but I'm anal like that. In fairness to BTF they were more than willing to exchange them for another set, but rather than wait for the turn around, I decided to weld them on rather then bolt them on like I had planned. I am very happy with how that turned out. They look much less "bolted on" this way and once painted will be mostly invisible. One thing I didnt like about the design is how far it was cut in the back. They come in past the outside of the framerail. I wanted some of my bumper left and didn't want it sticking out past the fender. Purely for aesthetics, I added some to them. This will also give me room to add another light. I had to trim the bumper down and relocate the body mount inside the framerail. When I built the bumper, I wasn't planning on stretching the wheelbase quite so much, but in retrospect I am glad I did it. Anyhow, enough jibberjabber, here's the pics.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10750&d=1181629924

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10751&d=1181629924

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10752&d=1181629924

agjohn02
06-12-2007, 01:36 AM
...

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10753&d=1181630167

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10754&d=1181630167

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10755&d=1181630167

CheapJeep
06-12-2007, 05:31 PM
Awesome work John, looks really clean welded on and having the bottom cut match the bumper. How about some better pics of the cage??? :D

agjohn02
06-12-2007, 05:55 PM
Those are just paper towel rolls I painted silver and duct taped together to mock it up.

JB
06-28-2007, 06:50 PM
As for the actual beadlocks inside the tires, I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. I'm in the process of cutting the runflat off of a stock one to see how it turns out.

I ordered teh usa6x6 pressed centers today along with new hardware and o-rings. As for the runflat, how are you cutting that part off? And is it necessary. I saw the inserts that they offer, but didn't want to spend any more money.

agjohn02
06-28-2007, 07:30 PM
I cut one down with a saws all, it was a pain but do-able. I plan to cut the rest off with a band saw. A port-a-band would probably be fairly easy too. The point of cutting the runflat off is to keep the tire from getting pinched and cut between it and a rock. While I obviously have no experience with them, it seems like a valid point.

It took a month to get the centers and the hardware he sells is not new, its used. Hacked me off b/c the only reason I bought new nuts from him is because they are mechanical, single use, lock nuts. The ones that came on my wheels were in as good of shape as the ones he shipped me. There might have been a few in there that I couldnt tell if they were used or not but majority of them had been installed before. I got a big bottle of red Loctite.

I won't be doing anymore business with him, but I like his centers better than any others out there.

bburris
06-28-2007, 08:55 PM
You can get those nuts new from a hardware supply house...

agjohn02
06-28-2007, 09:01 PM
You're kidding?

bburris
06-29-2007, 07:45 AM
Are you talking about the stover lock nuts that bolt the two pieces of a hummer wheel together, or am I not reading things correctly?

agjohn02
06-29-2007, 05:17 PM
Are you talking about the stover lock nuts that bolt the two pieces of a hummer wheel together, or am I not reading things correctly?


Your reading it correctly. What I meant was, MSC, McMaster Carr nor Grainger carry a fine thread (1/2-20 i think it was) flanged stover nut. Ace bolt doesnt believe they exist. Rather than keep hunting, I bought a big bottle of red Loctite and picked out the best 40 out of the 80 nuts I have. If you know where to get them I would like to know too. I wasn't trying to be derisive, I just didnt have time to type this out then.

bburris
06-29-2007, 05:41 PM
I got them from the nut/bolt/tool supplier that came by Collins Bros once a week. He drove a truck for Ram Products... Their website sucks, but I'll try to find the part number. I do agree that finding them was a total pain, though...

bburris
06-29-2007, 05:49 PM
It may not help too much since you probably put the wheels together a few months ago, but for future tech reference here are the Ram Products part numbers for flanged stover lock nuts for use with Hummer wheels.

(See, I contribute! Look at all those search words!)

agjohn02
06-29-2007, 06:03 PM
Are they stover nuts? They dont look crimped. You sure they're not just flange lockers with the teeth on the bottom.

bburris
06-29-2007, 11:03 PM
Yes.

agjohn02
06-30-2007, 12:37 AM
i Googled Ram Products and came up with a bunch of stuff thats not them. Do you have a link?

bburris
06-30-2007, 10:15 AM
Third one on the search results... That url address is pretty tricky.

http://www.ramproducts.com/

:flipoff2:

Graystroke
07-01-2007, 05:29 PM
they're not crimped the are ovaled locks. I bet if you checked Ebay you could find some. They are an MS part number (military). some people call those jet nuts as well.
google jet nuts.

Graystroke
07-01-2007, 05:30 PM
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/1567,321_Steel-Jet-Nuts-Fine-Thread-Self-Locking.html

here is the military spec number: MS21042L8

JB
07-01-2007, 08:24 PM
maybe you have already seen this, but it looks like performance cryogenics offers a hardware kit
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-Hummer_Rims/

agjohn02
07-01-2007, 10:56 PM
Did you price his PVC inserts?

agjohn02
07-01-2007, 11:13 PM
Did you price his PVC inserts?



Ah, he's the one that does the steel cage inserts now. Not sure what i think about those...


edit: Wow, they're $40 each.

agjohn02
07-15-2007, 10:17 PM
I parted out a 4th gen Camaro a while back and kept the steering column to use in the Jeep. Two reasons, it is black instead of tan like the Jeep one I had and the multifunction switch on the blinker is in good shape, unlike the Jeep one. They are both GM columns, so almost everything is identicle. The Camaro column has the same double D shaft that fits the Jeep column underhood, but it is slightly longer and had a firewall mount welded to it. The upper mount on the Camaro column was different too. I was planning on modifying the Jeep pedal bracket to accept the Camaro column but I was easily persuaded to do it the other way around when I broke one of the aluminum collapsing pucks. I only had one bolt in and grabbed the wheel to get in. Anyhow, I cut the Camaro brackets off and replaced them with Jeep brackets. I cut the little threaded bosses off of the Jeep column and welded them to the Camaro column. It all bolted up after that.

I cut the support rod on the right side of the column mount that goes to the firewall off when I was planning on adapting the Camaro mounts. What does it do? Should I put it back?

One problem, the column is pointed to the right just a bit. I'm using all the same Jeep mounts and the firewall mount is scooted all the way to the right. Make sense? Any ideas?

agjohn02
07-16-2007, 12:16 AM
I know, I know, needs more cowbell.

redcagepatrol
07-16-2007, 12:19 AM
you don't need that extra support rod - cut mine off too. Not sure why it's pointed to the right though...

Have you checked gauge clearence? It can be a tight fit.

agjohn02
07-16-2007, 12:21 AM
See Robbie, I told you all the cool kids have straight A pillars.

agjohn02
07-16-2007, 12:23 AM
you don't need that extra support rod - cut mine off too. Not sure why it's pointed to the right though...

Have you checked gauge clearence? It can be a tight fit.


yeah, gauges clear fine. I had to trim the lip on the tub a little though.

agjohn02
07-16-2007, 12:29 AM
One of my TCS buddies, Josh Tutt, from Mast Motorsports came down and helped me get the initial hard stuff done and taught me bending 101 plus a little Shrockworks technique. It's about 120' of 1.75"x.120" wall DOM. Everywhere I've gotten sweat on it over the past few months has surface rust. I was gonna polish it up pretty for the pics but I'll just have to do it again before paint so this is what you get. I bent the diagonals between the A and B pillars to give more head clearance.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11047&d=1184563678

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11048&d=1184563678

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11049&d=1184563678

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11052&d=1184563886

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11055&d=1184565196

agjohn02
07-16-2007, 12:39 AM
The B pillar is as high as it can be and still fit a soft top, as you can see in the pic.

The dash bar either had to go above or below the wiper motor. Putting it below blocks the top inch or two of the dash from view and I didn't want to do that.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11053&d=1184564334

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11056&d=1184566798

agjohn02
07-16-2007, 01:40 AM
I initially was going to keep the seat sliders on the driver's side so my mom and little brother could drive the Jeep with no problem. The passenger side was a definate no on the sliders due to the transmission tunnel.


Seat mounts version 1.0 (minus mounting tabs)

agjohn02
07-16-2007, 01:46 AM
I mounted both seats as low as I could and not have to drill holes in the floor to stick bolts through from the bottom side. The driver's seat was still higher than the passenger's and made my head feel a bit claustrophobic amoungst the steel cage bars. So, I shortened the seat brackets as much as I could and still get them to go together and slide through the full range of motion.


Seat mounts version 2.0

agjohn02
07-16-2007, 01:53 AM
This still didn't get the driver's seat low enough for me, so after considering the fact that my little brother won't be short for long and my mom could still drive the Jeep even if she had to point her toe, I decided to do away with the seat sliders and hard mount both sides.


Seat mounts version 3.0

redcagepatrol
07-16-2007, 08:26 AM
cage came out pretty good. I especially like the curved corner gussets - although they must've taken a while to notch out! Speaking of notching, that main intersection of tube looked like a challenge. Why were you holding out the pics for so long?? Mines been welded up for quite some time... :flipoff2:

agjohn02
07-16-2007, 08:44 AM
cage came out pretty good. I especially like the curved corner gussets - although they must've taken a while to notch out! Speaking of notching, that main intersection of tube looked like a challenge. Why were you holding out the pics for so long?? Mines been welded up for quite some time... :flipoff2:



got mine powder coated two weeks ago, HA!


I've got another project to work on for the next few weeks, so Jeep progress wil slow just a bit. I'd tell you about it but it's top secret and I'd have to kill you afterwards and blow up the internet.

Lynda
07-16-2007, 08:46 AM
Yeah, so where are those pics?

CRaSHnBuRN
07-16-2007, 08:54 AM
Everywhere I've gotten sweat on it over the past few months has surface rust.

Yeah, between the constant rain and humidity, my tubing looks like **** because of all of the rust.

davido
07-16-2007, 10:21 AM
That is really sweet looking John! It's going to be really nice. You guys almost inspire me to finish out my floor. :)

agjohn02
07-16-2007, 05:51 PM
Yeah, so where are those pics?



It's clear powdercoat. Looks good doesn't it?

agjohn02
07-16-2007, 09:19 PM
...

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11061&d=1184638610

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11062&d=1184638610

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11063&d=1184638610

AggieTJ2007
07-16-2007, 09:47 PM
loks real good

Reckless
07-16-2007, 09:50 PM
blingin!

CheapJeep
07-16-2007, 11:32 PM
As always nice work, looks awesome. I see a few similarities between yours and mine. :D

mudtoy67
07-16-2007, 11:43 PM
meh








:flipoff2:

agjohn02
07-16-2007, 11:48 PM
That is really sweet looking John! It's going to be really nice. You guys almost inspire me to finish out my floor. :)


i think you have bigger fish to fry than the floor now ;)

TxCruzr
07-16-2007, 11:52 PM
As always nice work, looks awesome. I see a few similarities between yours and mine. :D


What, it has round headlights and some tube for a cage :flipoff2:

Looks good john :cool:

Jackasic
07-17-2007, 07:11 AM
that will look good running through the back 40 in 2010 :flipoff2: Hurry up and finish that thing so we can see it in Clayton.

Lynda
07-17-2007, 08:21 AM
Looks really good!

redcagepatrol
07-17-2007, 09:38 AM
got to admid, I like the style. I also appreciate the amount of extra time / work that you and your dad have invested in that thing. All of those extra bends and style points take an enourmous amount work.

Loks good, can't wait to see it done - I didn't expect you to do the extra bend in the front cowl hoop below the headlights like mine...

Why didn't you make the extra bend in the front "A" pillar? Do those bars go thru the dash?

agjohn02
07-17-2007, 01:00 PM
got to admid, I like the style. I also appreciate the amount of extra time / work that you and your dad have invested in that thing. All of those extra bends and style points take an enourmous amount work.

I have to admit, I almost gave up on the bent corner braces on number three. I had to call it a day and go home. They were a pain. The gaps are very sensitive to placement. I just tacked them up there to keep from losing them. I have to cut the tacks and position them just right when I get ready to weld them.

Thanks for the completments, all of you. It's fun, but its nice to see other people appreciate the extra work too.


I didn't expect you to do the extra bend in the front cowl hoop below the headlights like mine...


***, I thought the same thing when I saw yours, but it follows the grill so much better that way.



Why didn't you make the extra bend in the front "A" pillar? Do those bars go thru the dash?

Makes it a lot easier to get in and out of. Plus, it's stronger without the bend.

agjohn02
07-20-2007, 03:20 PM
Ah, I forgot to mention. I was cruising Pirate last fall for cage ideas and came across this. It's what made me decide I like the raked bars over your head more than horizontal. See Wolverton, you didn't waste time and company resources on that internship. :gigem:

davido
07-20-2007, 06:05 PM
i think you have bigger fish to fry than the floor now ;)

Like... say an engine? Miiiinor detail. :D Lookin' slick.

Cajun
07-20-2007, 09:54 PM
Nice tube work John. The "eurobar" is very 'cruiser-iffic!

agjohn02
09-07-2007, 09:28 PM
Wow, its been a while. What's a "eurobar"?

Dash is done with the exception of a few knick-knacks like turn signal indicators, headlight switch, and heater valve cable. Gauges are Autometer, Switch panel is from 12voltguy, Radio is a Sony marine unit, Compass is a model B-16 of WWII vintage, CB is a Cobra, Glove box is a kustomized .50 cal can, dash cutouts are 3" exhaust tubing. I bought the angle rings for the small gauges but Autometer doesn't make them for the bigger ones. You can't see the top numbers on the gauges when they are mounted flat, so I built the angle rings for the speedo and tach out of PVC couplings, worked perfectly. I still have to put a new seal kit in the compass and refill it with fluid. The bolts for the glove box are inside the lid and the nuts are welded to the dash on the backside, so when its closed you cant get to them.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11379&d=1189218604

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11380&d=1189218604

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11381&d=1189218604

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11382&d=1189218604

agjohn02
09-07-2007, 09:30 PM
...

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11383&d=1189218641

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11384&d=1189218641

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11385&d=1189218641

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11386&d=1189218641

AggieTJ2007
09-07-2007, 09:40 PM
I Like The Compass

JeepPhisherman
09-07-2007, 10:34 PM
Holy sheet! An update!

What's the color scheme going to be? Or is that one of your closely guarded secrets?

agjohn02
09-08-2007, 12:10 AM
What's the color scheme going to be? Or is that one of your closely guarded secrets?


Yes, but only because I'm not sure yet.

8Runner
09-08-2007, 10:24 AM
The glovebox would be cooler if the wording was right side up :flipoff2:

Seriously, that & the compass are BADASS & that switch panel is over the top.

agjohn02
09-08-2007, 07:55 PM
Better shot of the gauges and angle bezels.

agjohn02
09-08-2007, 11:01 PM
One problem, the column is pointed to the right just a bit. I'm using all the same Jeep mounts and the firewall mount is scooted all the way to the right. Make sense? Any ideas?


I had a thought on this the other day. This is a YJ tub and I'm using the firewall bracket for the steering column from a CJ. Could that be what's causing it to not sit quite straight?

mudtoy67
09-10-2007, 08:29 AM
The dash is very cool!

sasquatch
09-10-2007, 03:23 PM
looks good. i wish i had the patience to make my work look like that

JB
09-10-2007, 08:35 PM
Stellar!

redcagepatrol
09-11-2007, 10:04 PM
very very nice - but too much work. This thing will be pretty sweet when done with all of these nice details!

robertf03
09-11-2007, 10:15 PM
I had a thought on this the other day. This is a YJ tub and I'm using the firewall bracket for the steering column from a CJ. Could that be what's causing it to not sit quite straight?


no, firewall is pretty much the same, and the seat brackets and floor pan are the same. I've never heard of this being mentioned in the numerous yj tub swaps I've read and heard about

maybe take a picture of it, I've seen those brackets enough on CJ to remember what they look like and yours looked identical.

redcagepatrol
09-11-2007, 10:21 PM
no, firewall is pretty much the same, and the seat brackets and floor pan are the same. I've never heard of this being mentioned in the numerous yj tub swaps I've read and heard about

maybe take a picture of it, I've seen those brackets enough on CJ to remember what they look like and yours looked identical.
mine seemed fine. I used an XJ column

agjohn02
09-11-2007, 10:32 PM
but too much work.


if i just threw this thing together, what would i do with all my spare time... study?

agjohn02
10-01-2007, 08:47 PM
no, firewall is pretty much the same, and the seat brackets and floor pan are the same. I've never heard of this being mentioned in the numerous yj tub swaps I've read and heard about

maybe take a picture of it, I've seen those brackets enough on CJ to remember what they look like and yours looked identical.


best pic i have of it.

http://tamor.org/forums/showpost.php?p=155597&postcount=166

Jackasic
11-26-2007, 11:57 PM
it will be lucky to be done by Clayton in December.

time to get cranking! what is the new target date, this thing need to see the trail.

DRAGOONRANCH
11-27-2007, 12:15 AM
x2 biatch


You atleast have to make TCC w/ it.

agjohn02
11-27-2007, 09:37 AM
Grad school. December 11th - January 13th will be a flurry of activity.

agjohn02
01-01-2008, 09:46 PM
Starting the New Year off with an update.

Mounted the orbital and shortened the steering shaft. The Jeep shaft mated right up with the Camaro steering column and splined shaft that came with the orbital.

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Miscstuff/P1010002a.jpg

Then built tube fenders. I decided to build full inner fenders due to the fact that this Jeep will be driven quite a bit on the ranch where it is muddy pretty much all winter and we didn't want to have to continually clean up the engine bay. I toyed with the idea of making them removeable or putting louvers in them, but in the end decided that if there are any cooling issues we will deal with them later.

I tied the fenders into the grill hoop rather than the grill itself. The grill is now isolated and this will prevent the grill and radiator from being damaged from a hard hit on the fender. The fenders are still easily removed via the stock four bolts in the firewall and the two on the grill hoop.

Oh yeah, built sliders too, you can see them in the pics. Pretty uneventful though. They're angle iron.

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Miscstuff/P5200032a.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Miscstuff/P5200033a.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Miscstuff/P5200043a.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Miscstuff/P5200021a.jpg

bcolman
01-01-2008, 11:11 PM
looks good, when do you think you will be done with this?

agjohn02
01-01-2008, 11:22 PM
That question has been asked many times by many people, and answered many times to no avail. So the outstanding answer now is "When it's done." With my three month hiatus I dont think I'll beat Scott's build time.

DRAGOONRANCH
01-02-2008, 02:42 AM
John, where are you getting the hydro setup from, or are you just sourcing parts from whereever?

agjohn02
01-02-2008, 12:12 PM
Psc

redcagepatrol
01-02-2008, 12:42 PM
That question has been asked many times by many people, and answered many times to no avail. So the outstanding answer now is "When it's done." With my three month hiatus I dont think I'll beat Scott's build time.
i think that you officially have more man-hours in this thing than any rig ever built :flipoff2: Every time that you post pictures - I see hours and hours of work involved. Nice work though, I see you pulled a few cool design ideas from other projects like Kelso's (it too has mucho time in it...)

The first few months of my project were spend getting parts, shaving and building a Dodge D60, finding a F250 with a HPD60, parting out that truck, changing the Stak order for driver drop, building the Ford D60, then finding and piecing together two SM465 trannys and rebuilding one with all new bearings etc... It took me forever to geat all of the drivetrain pieces figured out. ;)

agjohn02
01-02-2008, 12:46 PM
What did I pull from Kelso's? I've looked at so many rigs and put so many ideas together I have no idea what you are seeing.

redcagepatrol
01-02-2008, 12:48 PM
the blended / beveled tube mount for the fender to the front hoop. Also - the tube mount for the orbital

redcagepatrol
01-02-2008, 12:50 PM
I'm guessing the battery is still going to sit right behind the fender against the firewall? or do you have other plans for it?

agjohn02
01-02-2008, 01:07 PM
Ah, the tube mount for the fender I got off of a King Air when I went to see a A&P guy out at Coulter Field about refilling the compass. He had one torn down and I was looking the turbines over and saw that style on an engine mount.

The orbital mount came cut to be mounted on a tube and instead of cut that off I just cut the little piece of tube and put under it. I never saw how Dave mounted Kelso's. I did that back in September but it very well could have come from seeing other builds. I've seen a lot of stuff on Kelso's rig that I wished I had copied. Dave does really nice work.

agjohn02
01-02-2008, 01:09 PM
I'm guessing the battery is still going to sit right behind the fender against the firewall? or do you have other plans for it?


Yeah, I'm just going to beef up the stock tray and use it. The floor of it was corroded so it needs some help.

agjohn02
01-06-2008, 01:58 AM
Built a center console to house the Art Carr shifter. I don't like the Art Carr plastic housing and the shifter needed to sit higher than the mounts they supply sit. I also decided to put a storage box on it. I stuck with the ammo can theme as you can see. It's still lacking a lock. The E-brake mounts to the console between the drivers seat and the console. This way you can get in and out and it will be sticking up, hard to miss, when it's set.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12212&d=1199602650

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12213&d=1199602650

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12214&d=1199602650

DRAGOONRANCH
01-06-2008, 02:05 AM
you gonna go w/ an od green to repaint the console, or something else?

agjohn02
01-06-2008, 03:02 AM
Nah, something that will match the seats.

agjohn02
01-11-2008, 08:55 PM
Cage tie-ins are done. I went with tube on the A and C pillars and wanted something a little more significant on the B pillar so I made an outrigger out of 3"x2".

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12288&d=1200102855

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12289&d=1200102855

http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12290&d=1200102920

85cj7
01-11-2008, 10:13 PM
did you not want to use bushings between the cage and the frame?
thanks for posting those by the way now i have some ideas to follow when i do mine pretty soon.

DRAGOONRANCH
01-11-2008, 11:33 PM
That is just super clean work John, kudos all around.

Eckert
01-11-2008, 11:47 PM
did you not want to use bushings between the cage and the frame?
thanks for posting those by the way now i have some ideas to follow when i do mine pretty soon.

ive never seen one with bushings :confused:

DRAGOONRANCH
01-11-2008, 11:54 PM
Maybe he meant between cage and body???

StevenAg03
01-12-2008, 12:11 AM
ive never seen one with bushings :confused:


alot of people put bushings in like body mount bushings. that way the body doesnt rip when it tries to move around the stationary cage.

agjohn02
01-12-2008, 08:56 AM
The main reason for bushings between the cage and frame are vibration isolation. I thought seriously about putting them in but theres really no sense in a rig like this that wont be a daily driver. Also, you have to consider how you orient bushings as you can lose a lot of beneficial stiffness to the cage depending on which direction you put them.

agjohn02
01-12-2008, 09:25 AM
That is just super clean work John, kudos all around.


thanks Ed

stx4wheeler
01-12-2008, 11:42 AM
again very nice work john

Lynda
01-14-2008, 09:19 AM
pretty sure we had this same discussion on our jeep...we don't have vibrations near as I can tell

agjohn02
01-16-2008, 08:52 PM
Built a battery tray. The floor of the stock one was corroded pretty badly, so I scavenged parts off it it and made a new go fast one. I used Flemco dimple dies. They work swell on thin stuff. :gigem:

robertf03
01-16-2008, 09:05 PM
did you have to straighten the bottom plate any after those flares? I think adding a radius to the outside edge of the concave half of the die might cure some problems on thick stuff.

agjohn02
01-16-2008, 09:16 PM
Not nearly as much as it did on that thick stuff we tried. It was just barely wavy when I got the dimples done and I straightened it with my fingers.

agjohn02
01-17-2008, 02:25 PM
did you have to straighten the bottom plate any after those flares? I think adding a radius to the outside edge of the concave half of the die might cure some problems on thick stuff.


on another note, if you flip them over you can use them as a punch. i didnt have the right size hole saw for the big holes, so i drilled the size for the small one, dimpled it, then used that dimple to line up the big one and punch out the hole. then, flipped the concave part and dimpled.

8Runner
01-17-2008, 03:40 PM
Built a battery tray. The floor of the stock one was corroded pretty badly, so I scavenged parts off it it and made a new go fast one. I used Flemco dimple dies. They work swell on thin stuff. :gigem:

Are the dimples on the sides facing inwards? Won't they rub the battery as the vehicle vibrates? I had a problem with something similar on 8Runner & it eventually rubbed through the plastic casing of the battery.

EDIT: it looks really pimp though

Doug Krebs
01-17-2008, 04:03 PM
Are the dimples on the sides facing inwards? Won't they rub the battery as the vehicle vibrates? I had a problem with something similar on 8Runner & it eventually rubbed through the plastic casing of the battery.

EDIT: it looks really pimp though

Don't you worry where his dimples are!

agjohn02
01-17-2008, 05:07 PM
Don't you worry where his dimples are!


good advice.

theres plenty of clearance there Chris, never you worry.

8Runner
01-17-2008, 05:09 PM
good advice.

theres plenty of clearance there Chris, never you worry.

There was on mine too, but the battery slid over even when strapped down...probably just scotti/8runner luck.

RIP 8runner

agjohn02
01-17-2008, 05:10 PM
RIP 8runner


Rest In Pieces?

8Runner
01-18-2008, 04:47 AM
Rest In Pieces?

And all it's overinsured glory.

agjohn02
03-22-2008, 12:06 AM
I addressed the caster issue with shims. Originally I planned to machine the passenger's side perch and rotate the driver's side perch, but finally settled on welding shims on for simplicity. They are 8 degree shims from WFO. This brings my caster setting to 4 degrees. I also moved the front axle forward 1 inch by redrilling the perches.

agjohn02
03-22-2008, 12:07 AM
...