C-clip eliminators

[Gearhead61]

Is it worth the money to pick these up for my trail rig? I've got a 12 bolt out of a 72 blazer. Do they really break that often? Would it be better to just keep some spare c-clips and gear oil with me? The zuk might be flat-towed occasionally, so would it be a better idea to get a c-clip eliminator kit for that reason? I've also read you need to have one if you plan on running a spool (which I do). What is your take on it? Thanks!

[Sharpe]

There is no use in carrying spare C-clips because they (usually) do not actually break. I assume you've never taken a c-clip axle apart. The C-clips' only purpose is to hold the shaft in the housing. They are located in the differential so if an axle shaft breaks, there is nothing stopping the outside portion of the shaft from sliding out of the axle tube. This is where the eliminators come in. They are pressed onto the outside ends of the shafts so that if the shaft breaks, the wheel and outer shaft will remain on the vehicle.

I can see why you'd need the eliminators to run a spool. I doubt anyone would make a spool with provisions for the clips because spools are generally used in high performance applications where someone would be using the eliminators anyway.

IMO if you are sticking with a stock type differential for now, I wouldnt bother with the eliminators until after you actually break a shaft on the trail.

[stx4wheeler]

yeah with a 12 bolts or any half ton, you sammy will be able to take a pretty decent amount of abuse, also search on here for welded differentials, its cheaper than a spool and is prolly a little easier, unless you are dead set on it.

[Shaggy]

keep it cheap... maby get an extra shaft but dont spend the money if not needed dont ask me how i know

[Gearhead61]

I've taken apart my Ford 8.8 in the ranger before, and it's a c-clip axle. I've just read that things break and the wheels fall out, so I just figured it'd be a C-clip that broke. I think welding would be a good alternative, and it's good to know that I won't have to worry about the eliminators... That's an extra 150 bucks I could spend on something better.

[Shaggy]

it is never the c-clip that breaks it is always the axle... an axe and some rope can get you off the trail but i say always keep spare shafts just incase

[RCcola55]

weld the piss out of it

[Gearhead61]

Hmmm... Paul must have kept the piss for himself... there's no piss in my axle? :flipoff2:

[RCcola55]

not funny... just weld it and save yourself some money, dont **** with the c clip eliminator they are more trouble then they are worth and leak like a *****

[CRaSHnBuRN]

curious about why you want to use a 12 bolt in the sammi anyway?

[Gearhead61]

ok ok it was a lame attempt at humor, sue me.

I got the 12 bolt for a good price and I want full-size axles for a wider stance for stability. The weight of the axles will help put my center of gravity lower down too. It should be plenty strong to hold up to what that little 4 cylinder can throw at it in stock form.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

you paid money for a 12 bolt? :eek:


Just messing with you, but I think in your case you may be better sticking with something a little narrower. With something the width of a sami, even running toy axles is a big upgrade and seem much wider. I always thought a waggy d44 and a isuzu 12 bolt (nothing similar to a chevy 12 bolt) would be a great combo for a suzuki. It would give you a good width, 4 wheel discs, and be pretty cheap

[BMFScout]

If you already have it, I'd say weld it up and run it. I don't think you'll have to worry about breaking it. What are you going to run in the front?

[Gearhead61]

I have a full-size D44 for the front. I could have paid about $100 more for a pair of yota axles and had to pick them up in San Antonio... but I figured I'd try something different! I've seen a few guys run fullsize axles on a sammi with good success, so we will see how it turns out.

[agjohn02]

i like sammis with fullsizes under them. just run a lot of backspacing.

[Gearhead61]

Yeah it makes a lot of sense to me. I love this guy's rig... he's got a fullsize D44 with a floater 14 bolt in the back

http://www.zukikrawlers.com/albums/TX_ZUKI/DSC00651_1.jpg

[BMFScout]

that looks cool as ****.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

i like sammis with fullsizes under them. just run a lot of backspacing.

easily accomplished with a set of H1's :cheers:

[agjohn02]

easily accomplished with a set of H1's :cheers:


not if he's using 6 lug axles

[Gearhead61]

Can't they be converted to 8 lug? I think I've seen the parts for an 8-lug conversion before. I seem to remember something about not being able to run hi-steer with 8-lug hubs though maybe? Maybe I'm just making all of this up...

[agjohn02]

search function works wonders


edit: actually, i think the only guys that really know the answer to that are in the "hardcore jeep" section of pirate.

[bcolman]

search function works wonders


edit: actually, i think the only guys that really know the answer to that are in the "hardcore jeep" section of pirate.

i know you can convert the dana 44 to 8 lug, but i am not sure on the 12 bolt, and you can still do high/crossover steering on the 44, i have an 8 lug 44 and am about to convert to crossover steering. if you want an 8 lug rear, jsut pick up a 14 bolt.

[Gearhead61]

I think it'd just be easier to get some wheels with lots of backspacing, hahaha.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

You will end up wanting to go bigger with that 12B anyway, so get the 14 (they are like bad advice, people are just givin em away). Then all you have to do is get the 8 lug hubs for the 14 and they make highsteer for them that will clear the H1's, you will just have to do some searchin on that as I never bookmarked the 44stuff when I was lookin for the same for the 60. :gigem:

[Gearhead61]

Even the full floater 14 bolts? That'd be a nice thing to have if they are pretty easy to come by. I might just stick with what I've got for now though... I'm strapped for cash as it is.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

the only thing I can say with going fullwidths on a sammi is to go big on the tires, or it tends to look really goofy. I don't really care for the 12 bolt, but that may be due to having to replace so many of them in a friends old chevy mud truck.

Personally, I think running the H1's or H2's would work well. Granted you have to convert the front to eight lug, and get a 8 lug rear of some sort. As for the price for the rear axle, they really arent that bad. I spent 50 bucks for my D70, and didn't even need to pull it. In your case, a D60 would be plenty strong, and not be such a rock anchor like a 14 bolt would

If you do keep the 6 lug axles, you may want to look into the H3 wheels. They're 6 lug, and look like the H2 wheels, but are 16 inches in diameter

One thing to consider is the offset t-case of the sammi. You'll most likely need to stretch the wheelbase in order to run a centered rear axle to aviod driveshaft problems, but thats probably a good idea anyway

[Gearhead61]

I was planning on tires in the ~38" range, so hopefully that won't look too goofy. I guess wheels I can figure out once I figure out the axles. At this point I just want to get it out and wheeling! I do plan on stretching the wheelbase to about 100" or so, so that ought to take care of the offset t-case issue.

What is the big deal with Hummer wheels? The H1 wheels have beadlocks of some sort, don't they? But why H2 or H3 wheels? Neither of those things really strike me as great off-road vehicles. Is there something special about their wheels?

[bcolman]

the good thing about hummer wheels is that you can normaly find them cheap, and they have lots of backspacing which would be good for full width axles on a jeep, sammy, etc.

[Gearhead61]

Ah ok. Tires are expensive for bigger wheels though, aren't they? I guess I'll just jump off that bridge once I get to it.

[bcolman]

new tires are, but you just need to find a deal, i got mine for 600 and my bro got his for 400 i think, so it is possible to find some cheap good tires, you just have to be on the look out

[CRaSHnBuRN]

If you get the narrow 38s, like a 38x12.5 tsl, your 12 bolt may be fine, but if you get anything bigger or wider, you probably should step up to a little bigger axle. Maybe try to find one of those 6 lug 14 bolts to match your front.

yeah, deals can be found on tires if you take your time and look. Like you said, wait on the wheel size until you get the tires, that way that is not a limiting factor. I picked up the 35x12.5 trxus MTs now on ugly's truck for free, a full set of 40 inch TSLs plus with a brand new spare for $700, and my set of 40 inch iroks for $900 (which really isn't a great deal, but not bad considering they are brand new, never been run, and for a 17 inch rim)

[CheapJeep]

As some have said above wait for a deal on tires then purchase rims afterwards. I ended up trading a set of 35x13.50x15 Baja Claws for the 38x15.50x16 Super Swamper SSR's I have now straight up.

As for axles there are alot of things to take into consideration. It all depends on power output and tire size really. I'm currently running 38's welded and geared front and rear (dodge full width dana 44 and ford 8.8") with the stock 258 in my jeep no problem. This is possible because I don't have a whole lot of power. Now that I'm swapping a 383 in it's totally different story and I'm going 1 ton. You really have to decide what you want and lay out a plan (which always changes) from the start, set limits. In hindsight I wish I would've gone 1 ton from the get go and saved the extra time and money spent redoing things now.

[Gearhead61]

Well thanks for the advice everyone! I will keep my eyes open for a stronger rear axle and everything to see what happens. What I have read from a lot of people is that the light weight and low horsepower of the sammis makes them really easy on axles and such. If anyone sees some good deals on them, please pass them on!