Problem with my Power Stroke

[KrazyKarl02]

So here is my problem, If anyone is on TDR post this up there and see what brilliance they come up with.

I have an early year 1999 Powerstroke with the 7.3L 6speed. It is bone stock. I have done regular maintenance (oil, filters, front axle bearings, etc…) The only major work done to it was a clutch job and transmission rebuild. So the other day I was pulling my car hauler with my friends Scrambler on it (5000 to 6000 lbs) and the truck stumbled. By stumbled I mean it was like the engine cut out for a second or 2. It was raining at this time. It did this several times and eventually the “Service Engine Soon” light came on. Upon turning the truck off and on the light would go off. I went by my friends shop and we hooked a scanner up to it, there were no codes in memory. We drove it around and got the light to come up. The scanner would show the light was on, but it still showed no error codes.

To me the stumble felt like a knock sensor on a gas engine or perhaps the cam sensor. I have heard these trucks have issues with the cam sensors, so I went and bought one at O’reilly’s. Installed it and assumed everything was ok. This was last Sunday. Monday I had no problems. Tuesday it was again raining and I felt the stumble several times. One time while sitting at a light the truck died. I restarted it with no problems. At this point I figured I had a connection that water was getting into and causing the problem due to it happening only when it was raining.

Well last night I was driving back from Beaumont and my Battery light started coming on any time the engine was under about 1000 RPM (while stopped at lights) My question is does anyone have any idea about these? Are they related? Or do I just have a possible bad battery/alternator and some other problem causing the stumble? Any help is appreciated.

[fbronco86]

So here is my problem, If anyone is on TDR post this up there and see what brilliance they come up with.

I have an early year 1999 Powerstroke with the 7.3L 6speed. It is bone stock. I have done regular maintenance (oil, filters, front axle bearings, etc…) The only major work done to it was a clutch job and transmission rebuild. So the other day I was pulling my car hauler with my friends Scrambler on it (5000 to 6000 lbs) and the truck stumbled. By stumbled I mean it was like the engine cut out for a second or 2. It was raining at this time. It did this several times and eventually the “Service Engine Soon” light came on. Upon turning the truck off and on the light would go off. I went by my friends shop and we hooked a scanner up to it, there were no codes in memory. We drove it around and got the light to come up. The scanner would show the light was on, but it still showed no error codes.

To me the stumble felt like a knock sensor on a gas engine or perhaps the cam sensor. I have heard these trucks have issues with the cam sensors, so I went and bought one at O’reilly’s. Installed it and assumed everything was ok. This was last Sunday. Monday I had no problems. Tuesday it was again raining and I felt the stumble several times. One time while sitting at a light the truck died. I restarted it with no problems. At this point I figured I had a connection that water was getting into and causing the problem due to it happening only when it was raining.

Well last night I was driving back from Beaumont and my Battery light started coming on any time the engine was under about 1000 RPM (while stopped at lights) My question is does anyone have any idea about these? Are they related? Or do I just have a possible bad battery/alternator and some other problem causing the stumble? Any help is appreciated.

Try www.thedieselstop.com thats the ford website and its free.

I will post it on there for yeah. I have an account.

[fbronco86]

I would have totally changed the fuel filter first. I know you are cheap and dont like to change that guy. :flipoff2:

Ok I will be nice from here on. Does your truck have a light for the fuel filter? Mine had a light for water in fuel and then there was a different light for a restrictive fuel filter. Could be your filter is just really dirty and pissing your truck off.

[jerryg79]

TDR is for dodge's....

[fbronco86]

TDR is for dodge's....

Really :flipoff2:

[jerryg79]

Really :flipoff2:

Karl said post it on TDR, I was letting him know that was for Dodge's, just in case he's not the mental giant that you are.

[fbronco86]

Karl said post it on TDR, I was letting him know that was for Dodge's, just in case he's not the mental giant that you are.

Umm I am not sure about that. Those folks at SAM are pretty smart themselves. :flipoff2:

[jerryg79]

Umm I am not sure about that. Those folks at SAM are pretty smart themselves. :flipoff2:

i'm not getting in another pissing match with you.

[fbronco86]

i'm not getting in another pissing match with you.

Sweet I win :flipoff2:

[jerryg79]

Karl did you know this?

If you know someone who has a superchips programmer for Ford vehicles it should be able to scan it, the Snap On units work as well. I have a XCalibrator2 that works great, if you were close by I would scan it for you. The generic units at Auto Zone and other parts places won't read our codes. Maybe tell us where you are located and maybe a member is close by?

[jerryg79]

One sign of a failed CPS is your Tach will not move while cranking the engine over.
This is on long extended cranking. Short cranking, on a good CPS will not register either
If you have an AIC (APCM) installed, it may not registered RPM's either. The Tach gets its
reference from the CPS sensor and if its not sending a signal, no tach.

UPDATE!
Further reports from the field.
Before blaming your CPS for killing your truck, you should check the following:

ICP connector. Poor connections at the ICP can cause a stall like the CPS
Batteries: Weak batteries will crank the truck, but may not start it.
HPOP: Check your HPOP reservoir to make sure it has oil in it
CHIP: If your truck has a chip, remove it and clean the contacts

[fbronco86]

Karl per the dudes on the furd website.

Cam Sensor

Most guys won't use anything but Ford or International for this part.We have seen too many new ones bad out of the box....

[fbronco86]

I really can not wait for chadnutz to post with his wealth of knowledge of fords.

[jerryg79]

Karl per the dudes on the furd website.

Cam Sensor

Most guys won't use anything but Ford or International for this part.We have seen too many new ones bad out of the box....

my internet sources say the international one is half the price of the one from the ford parts house.

Check that tach deal, everyone says that is a telltale sign of the cps.

PS im really bored.

[BMFScout]

IH-woohoo!

[Chadnutz]

CPS. 10mm socket, front of the engine by the harmonic balancer/main pulley whatever the f it is. Will cost around $90 at an International dealership. Whenever you buy anything from International you will need your engine serial number. It is located on a machined surface right behind your oil filter. Change it soon and put your old one in your glove compartment as a spare.

P.S. It is probably on pretty tight.
P.P.S. Glad I could share. :flipoff2:

Look just below water pump and just above harmonic balancer on the left side of the front.
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Powerstroke/Front_With_Accessories.sized.jpg

It reads the indentions on this gear using a magnet.
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Powerstroke/Day_5_Close_Cam.jpg

[fbronco86]

What's a cam position sensor?

Yeah I kinda forgot you have a powerjoke buts its totally different from karls.

[fbronco86]

Karl did you know this?

If you know someone who has a superchips programmer for Ford vehicles it should be able to scan it, the Snap On units work as well. I have a XCalibrator2 that works great, if you were close by I would scan it for you. The generic units at Auto Zone and other parts places won't read our codes. Maybe tell us where you are located and maybe a member is close by?

Just to confirm jerry's. Turns out you need two post to confirm stuff from the internet.

The majority of auto parts store don't have a scan tool that is capatable with our trucks, even though they say they will read them. If you know anybody with a superchips programmer, or XCalibrator2 programmer? Snap On and I have heard MAC scanners will also work. For the ultimate you can buy a A&E software package that will provide you with a code reader and a diagnostic device that can run many tests and reports. If you were closer I would read them for you.

[Chadnutz]

Yeah I kinda forgot you have a powerjoke buts its totally different from karls.

Oh... because it is intercooled, has higher flowing stock injectors, a waste gated turbo, a slightly higher flowing high pressure oil pump, an electric fuel pump on the frame rail instead of cam driven, and some ****ty powdered metal connecting rods? May I share any more of my wealth of knowledge, or are you going to stop being obsessed about me. I post once every 3-4 weeks and you still talk about me when I'm not around. You want me to mail you my autograph? :flipoff2:

[jerryg79]

Oh... because it is intercooled, has higher flowing stock injectors, a waste gated turbo, a slightly higher flowing high pressure oil pump, an electric fuel pump on the frame rail instead of cam driven, and some ****ty powdered metal connecting rods? May I share any more of my wealth of knowledge, or are you going to stop being obsessed about me. I post once every 3-4 weeks and you still talk about me when I'm not around. You want me to mail you my autograph? :flipoff2:

:laughing: :laughing:

[fbronco86]

Oh... because it is intercooled, has higher flowing stock injectors, a waste gated turbo, a slightly higher flowing high pressure oil pump, an electric fuel pump on the frame rail instead of cam driven, and some ****ty powdered metal connecting rods? May I share any more of my wealth of knowledge, or are you going to stop being obsessed about me. I post once every 3-4 weeks and you still talk about me when I'm not around. You want me to mail you my autograph? :flipoff2:

I really dont think you want to start a pissing match with me. I totally beat jerry a few mins ago. So I am on a roll.

And please and I can spout specs from a website I read too. :flipoff2:

[jerryg79]

I really dont think you want to start a pissing match with me. I totally beat jerry a few mins ago. So I am on a roll.



I must admit that was pretty funny too.

[fbronco86]

From the diesel stop


Have ya swapped fuel filters lately or at least dumped the fuel filter. You said it is raining, maybe you got a rain forest humidity thing going in your fuel tank at the moment? Either way that's a cheap fix and only takes a moment.

Next I would go over the valve cover harness with a fine tooth comb. Look for any nicks or where it might be shorting on the valve covers. If you still cant find a problem you might try the under valve cover harness. The connectors love to come loose from the valve covers (search for UVCH on this site) Ford now has some little clips that hold the connector into position so it cant work its way loose.

About the CPS.WHO THE HELL KNOWS!!!! The CPS are red herrings. To date there isn't really any date to pro or disprove "who what where when or why" the things go bad, only that they do. IMO about 50% of the time I think the CPS gets blamed when it is actually something else totally...

BTW, SP Diesel has been begging for bad CPS's to test. If you think yours has actually gone bad you might send it to him for dissection. Help find the cure :cool: I think he has even offered to pay shipping on the things or something?

[fbronco86]

From my wealth of ford knowledge.

1. Change the fuel filter

2. Take the truck to someone who can scan it properly.

3. Start throwing money at it.

Then you can try these options....

4. Install a 7.3 IDI factory turbo( they have better connecting rods) motor they are bullet proof with the mech full injection. PS I added the connecting rods bit just for chadnutz

5. Install a 12v cummins

6. Install a 460 you can never go wrong with a 460.

7. Install a IH 345 and convert it back to diesel.

8. Install a CAT 3406

9. Install a 2.5l 4 banger iron duke. I am pretty sure you can run sand in the oil on this engine cause it will never die.

10. Scrap yard....

PS I think you should get a talking black buck to put in the bed.

[Chadnutz]

You lose all credibility by not listing a Mazda B2600i.... :rolleyes:

Cat 3406s are the ****. We run three of them here at work and have very little problems. One of them has 13000 hours on it after a rebuild. Our Volvo D12 makes more power per liter, however.

[fbronco86]

You lose all credibility by not listing a Mazda B2600i.... :rolleyes:

Cat 3406s are the ****. We run three of them here at work and have very little problems. One of them has 13000 hours on it after a rebuild. Our Volvo D12 makes more power per liter, however.

The only reason I posted the Cat 3406 is because I am using one on a skid project.

Its a 3406 DIV II hazardous area engine. Got to mess with one of them before?

[Chadnutz]

The only reason I posted the Cat 3406 is because I am using one on a skid project.

Its a 3406 DIV II hazardous area engine. Got to mess with one of them before?

No

[Reckless]

I have. Damn good engine.

[KrazyKarl02]

I have already tried changing the CPS, please read original post, it did not help. Like Nutz suggested though the old one is my truck tool box waiting for the day it is needed.

I drained the water (if there was any) off the fuel filter a week ago, it did not help. The filter is fairly new. when it craps out it is all of the sudden. I would think a filter would be a lack of response under power, not just sitting idling and it decides to be pissed.

I snagged the battery checker from work and found out that with the truck not running my voltage is a little over 13. With the truck running it is 12.5 Looks like at the minimum I need an alternator. Hopefully the stumbling issue is caused by low voltage or something. But we shall see.

[jerryg79]

I have already tried changing the CPS, please read original post, it did not help. Like Nutz suggested though the old one is my truck tool box waiting for the day it is needed.

I drained the water (if there was any) off the fuel filter a week ago, it did not help. The filter is fairly new. when it craps out it is all of the sudden. I would think a filter would be a lack of response under power, not just sitting idling and it decides to be pissed.

I snagged the battery checker from work and found out that with the truck not running my voltage is a little over 13. With the truck running it is 12.5 Looks like at the minimum I need an alternator. Hopefully the stumbling issue is caused by low voltage or something. But we shall see.

The issue with the CPS was the brand that you bought. All of the Powerstroke experts have had problems with ones from the parts house being dead out of the box. Hence the suggestion to buy one from international or ford.

[BMFScout]

this is a stupid question, but I guess the injectors are electronic?

[KrazyKarl02]

Well I would think just one injector would not make this stumble. I would think maybe something that tells all the injectors to fire would do this.