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FJAggie07
11-07-2007, 11:21 PM
Newest Aquisition = The Wheeling Rig.

Bone Friggin Stock 85 4Runner.

currently rebuilding the 22RE, bored 20 over.

Hope to have her running and wheeling by January.

Mods in the next two months:
5" Lift.
5.29 Gears.
Hy-Steer.
Paint.
Slap on my 34" TSL's.


Wheel the **** out of it :gigem:

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c169/Valkyrie610/4Runner/new1.jpg

Doug Krebs
11-07-2007, 11:26 PM
Where/who did you buy it from? A couple of us from kingwood know a guy who had one and sold it to someone in austin a couple of months ago.

mudtoy67
11-07-2007, 11:26 PM
You're crazy. If I were you, I'd leave that thing alone and just get a beater. Trust me, you'll thank me later.

















:flipoff2:

sasquatch
11-08-2007, 12:26 AM
its that 5 new buildup threads in one day?

FJAggie07
11-08-2007, 12:46 AM
I only see 4...

Eckert
11-08-2007, 01:14 AM
no doubler?

Seth
11-08-2007, 09:59 AM
im waiting for the "i told you so's"

stx4wheeler
11-08-2007, 10:04 AM
hey man one thing just trying to help not criticize, and i could be wrong about. Arent the 5.29 toy gears notorious for grenading, i think i have seen at least 3 thirds get destroyed from them.

JeepPhisherman
11-08-2007, 10:36 AM
Why not skip the 5.29's and go doubler with 4.7's?

sasquatch
11-08-2007, 10:37 AM
gears get weaker as you go nurmarically higher. probably not much material there to begin with

agjohn02
11-08-2007, 10:49 AM
another vote for doubler and 4.10's

FJAggie07
11-08-2007, 10:59 AM
Si Gears have been known to be weak at 5.29's.

Why not skip that and double transfer case and 4.7's? The difference between $1300 for adapters and parts(i already have the second case), and prolly 400-500 for gears. It will get done I am just looking at what I want to do in the next two months. I have about 6500 total for this build so I am trying to keep on the cheap side you know?

FJAggie07
11-08-2007, 11:11 AM
Ok now ya'll got me all confused and ****. If I wanted to drive it where ever I was going to wheel and running a 35-37" tire I would probably want the 5.29's to be able to get down the highway right?

agjohn02
11-08-2007, 11:15 AM
you have five gears

FJAggie07
11-08-2007, 11:17 AM
you have five gears

****ing smart ass. :flipoff2:

CRaSHnBuRN
11-08-2007, 01:12 PM
Dual cases are cheap to do. $350 for the adapter, retube the CV driveshaft for the rear, and run a square driveshaft in the front.

But if you want to run it on the road alot it will not be fun with just 4.10s. 5.29s are plenty strong if you go with a good brand and they are setup well, especially if you cryo them. There was a big rush to a few years ago to go back to 4.10s a few years ago since they were technically stronger, but in the end it seemed to cause more strain on other parts which lead to more people going back to the 5.29s. Its kinda a toss up really, either way has it good points and its bad.

CRaSHnBuRN
11-08-2007, 01:13 PM
Personally I think you should put the 4runner body on the FJ frame and drivetrain :flipoff2:

uglyota
11-08-2007, 01:16 PM
Ok now ya'll got me all confused and ****. If I wanted to drive it where ever I was going to wheel and running a 35-37" tire I would probably want the 5.29's to be able to get down the highway right?
yes probably, but with a 35-37" tire and a Tundra you will not want to drive to wherever you are going to wheel. Get Bobby Long's or Polyperformance's cryo-ed 5.29s. You will also want a doubler. $350 for Marlin's cast 10* rotated adapter. Best deal in the industry.
What lift and hy-steer are you planning to use?
What lockers?
Hydro-assist?
Make sure to add birfs to the list.

edit: hmm seems like Feller and I have some of the same thoughts on this subject. Wonder why that is? :D
oh and congrats!

CRaSHnBuRN
11-08-2007, 01:20 PM
edit: hmm seems like Feller and I have some of the same thoughts on this subject. Wonder why that is? :D
oh and congrats!


maybe becuase we've both built and helped build a **** load of these things and learned long ago what worked and what plan sucked. Hell I drove my black truck for 4 months on 4.10 gears, and was lucky to be able to even use the 4th gear half the time

uglyota
11-08-2007, 02:18 PM
perhaps...

don't forget sliders and bumpers. I would say sliders are most important thing to do right away.

tell us what you're doing with the motor. Anything special or just a rebuild? Use ARP headbolts and put it on the bottle!

Eckert
11-08-2007, 03:18 PM
If he goes 'pane! i call dibs on the EFI!

Also, where did $1300 come from for the doubler? i figure $700 after a adapter and budbuilt said and done.

FJAggie07
11-08-2007, 03:50 PM
I guess I just had that idea in my head dunno...

ANYWAYS, ok first off thank you guys for the advice so far please keep it coming.

Marlin 5" complete lift kit is what I was thinking and it includes all the hy-steer stuff. I have a friend with like 5 IFS steering boxes just laying around so I will take one off his hands.

As far as the rebuild goes nothing special. I am tossing around the idea of a ceramic header too...

Thanks so far and keep it coming. So 5.29's or no? Yukon Gears or Long's?

stx4wheeler
11-08-2007, 04:29 PM
if you do 5.29's i would definately get the cryo'd ones

CRaSHnBuRN
11-08-2007, 04:43 PM
I guess I just had that idea in my head dunno...

ANYWAYS, ok first off thank you guys for the advice so far please keep it coming.

Marlin 5" complete lift kit is what I was thinking and it includes all the hy-steer stuff. I have a friend with like 5 IFS steering boxes just laying around so I will take one off his hands.

As far as the rebuild goes nothing special. I am tossing around the idea of a ceramic header too...

Thanks so far and keep it coming. So 5.29's or no? Yukon Gears or Long's?


How are you planning on using this thing? Trail ***** or occasional mall crawler. If its going to be on the road much buy the gears. Search pirate for the prefered brand of gears. Yukons are just repackaged stuff and you never know what brand you are going to actually get. Long is the guy to have them heat treated, but I don't know if he keeps them in stock normally or not. While you're on the phone with Long do everyone behind you on the trail a favor and order a set of the 30 spline axle shafts. If you go trail only, weld up the stock 4.10 diffs and go. Just use the money saved and upgrade the output on your rear case (long once again). That seems to be part most affected by the strain caused by not running lower gears. Also do hydro assist. Its cheap and easy to do and helps alot.

CRaSHnBuRN
11-08-2007, 04:46 PM
don't forget sliders and bumpers. I would say sliders are most important thing to do right away.



eric is right, get some armor on that thing, or you'll end up not able to open you doors quick. Also, since a 4runner cab isn't that strong, stick a cage or exo on that thing. Rollovers can happen in the dumbest places

FJAggie07
11-08-2007, 05:15 PM
eric is right, get some armor on that thing, or you'll end up not able to open you doors quick. Also, since a 4runner cab isn't that strong, stick a cage or exo on that thing. Rollovers can happen in the dumbest places

Will do. I was thinking exo, but more spring of next year then right now.

Yes this thing will be part Mall-Crawler, I am not rebuilding the engine to not be able to drive out to the trail. I want to make this a good trail truck (4 * capable) but can be an expedition rig too.

I guess to give everyone a better idea of where I want to go with this. I want to start the rigs life as a VERY capable expedition rig. I want to be able to throw a cooler and a tent in the back and drive to the trail, knowing I want to drive back. Now this will last all of 6 months to a year I know, but I would like to start the truck this way until I can afford the car hauler for the tundra and get into a house with a garage. I want to start out doing everything right so I don't have to change it later. It will eventually become a trailer queen but I would like to keep it for the first year able to drive to gilmer, katemcy, clayton, on it's own power (and drive back).

I am going to get some measurements off the FJC sliders maybe I can make them work for the runner (Highly unlikely but worth a shot with a cut and a weld or two) I may start parting out the FJC and take it back to almost stock to help fund a car hauler.

FJAggie07
11-08-2007, 05:34 PM
They be in stock, for 170 a set. Cha-ching.

http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/

agjohn02
11-08-2007, 05:44 PM
Si Gears have been known to be weak at 5.29's.

Why not skip that and double transfer case and 4.7's? The difference between $1300 for adapters and parts(i already have the second case), and prolly 400-500 for gears. It will get done I am just looking at what I want to do in the next two months. I have about 6500 total for this build so I am trying to keep on the cheap side you know?


so just go with a 2.28 doubler, for the same price you'll get a low range of 92:1 instead of 52:1

uglyota
11-08-2007, 05:59 PM
you probably already know better than to mess with Trail Mart (Trail Gear).

I think the marlin 5" kit is going to be the easiest way to do all of that stuff correctly right off the bat

And definitely get a header. My thorley is one of the best mods I have done. Are you replacing the cam too? engnbldr cam is a good idea and maybe just get a new head if you haven't had yours done yet. Might be almost as cheap as having yours gone through.

Eckert
11-08-2007, 07:27 PM
sliders are cheap. no reason to try to cut yours off and adapt them to the 4runner.

CRaSHnBuRN
11-08-2007, 07:27 PM
They be in stock, for 170 a set. Cha-ching.

http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/

I thought all he had were high pinion gears available

CRaSHnBuRN
11-08-2007, 07:54 PM
Will do. I was thinking exo, but more spring of next year then right now.




yeah, I was going to do mine as soon as school ended for the summer, and we all know how that went

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album10/roll13.jpg

FJAggie07
11-08-2007, 08:08 PM
sliders are cheap. no reason to try to cut yours off and adapt them to the 4runner.

They are bolted on. I made them that way to easily drop them off and repaint them... (like that has ever happened :rolleyes: )

FJAggie07
11-08-2007, 08:12 PM
you probably already know better than to mess with Trail Mart (Trail Gear).

I think the marlin 5" kit is going to be the easiest way to do all of that stuff correctly right off the bat

And definitely get a header. My thorley is one of the best mods I have done. Are you replacing the cam too? engnbldr cam is a good idea and maybe just get a new head if you haven't had yours done yet. Might be almost as cheap as having yours gone through.

Si. No likey the trail gear.

I like Marlin's stuff and his board, lots of good info i have gotten there so far.

I place the order with engnbldr tomorrow, new cam and everything in one kit. I am thinking Pacesetter ceramic headers from Summit. The head looks good right now but I am waiting to hear back from the machine shop about what is going on with the block.

FJAggie07
11-08-2007, 08:13 PM
I thought all he had were high pinion gears available

Dunno I am calling them tomorrow.

FJAggie07
11-08-2007, 08:13 PM
yeah, I was going to do mine as soon as school ended for the summer, and we all know how that went

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album10/roll13.jpg

noted. :gigem:

FJAggie07
11-15-2007, 12:20 PM
Fawking awesome news.

Got the full engine rebuild kit in today from engnbldr, gonna get the **** over to the machine shop so they can assemble and balance it.

Also got my cat and muffler in from summit, headers were back ordered but I should be able to get them in before the next 15th.

mudtoy67
11-15-2007, 12:51 PM
cat? Have to worry with Dallas emissions inspection?

Eckert
11-15-2007, 01:03 PM
there are about eleventy headers for sale for the 22re right now. used of course. no need to wait. check the forums.

FJAggie07
11-15-2007, 02:19 PM
cat? Have to worry with Dallas emissions inspection?

Yeah well it will be registered and everything up here, but I want it to pass inspection so I can legally drive it out wherever I want to go. The cat was all of 70 bucks and that way I have the exhaust system all done up right so that it passes with flying colors and I never have to worry. It is my thinking right now, might be a waste of money later...

FJAggie07
11-15-2007, 02:20 PM
there are about eleventy headers for sale for the 22re right now. used of course. no need to wait. check the forums.

I got the ceramic coated pacesetters to make sure I never have to worry about them again. I am trying to do it on the right not on the right now or cheap. I will take my time with her and spend money where I need it but not necessarily cheap out you know?

FJAggie07
01-02-2008, 10:12 AM
finally started work on this sumbeech.

Pics...

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f105/starranchjoker/22RE%20Rebuild/DSCN0016.jpg
We grabbed the 85 Mini Truck service manual from Toyota of Richardson but turns out it only dealt with the diesel motor...
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f105/starranchjoker/22RE%20Rebuild/DSCN0017.jpg

Paint the Block...
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f105/starranchjoker/22RE%20Rebuild/DSCN0019.jpg

Dry the block...
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f105/starranchjoker/22RE%20Rebuild/DSCN0020.jpg

Head fits...
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f105/starranchjoker/22RE%20Rebuild/DSCN0024.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f105/starranchjoker/22RE%20Rebuild/DSCN0025.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f105/starranchjoker/22RE%20Rebuild/DSCN0027.jpg


http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f105/starranchjoker/22RE%20Rebuild/DSCN0030.jpg

New use for Headers?
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f105/starranchjoker/22RE%20Rebuild/DSCN0032.jpg

End of progress for this past sunday, starting work on it again this sunday...
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f105/starranchjoker/22RE%20Rebuild/DSCN0033.jpg

uglyota
01-02-2008, 10:33 AM
wow, bet that makes a tchain job less painful! Which cam did you get?

FJAggie07
01-02-2008, 10:36 AM
RockCrawler Cam from Engnbldr.com. Can't remember the specs off the top of me head tho sorry...

agjohn02
01-02-2008, 12:15 PM
say RV! say RV!

BMFScout
01-02-2008, 12:29 PM
That's awesome, I've never seen so many new parts go into a toyota rebuild. assembly techniques look similar to our though. More beer drinking than building.

redcagepatrol
01-02-2008, 12:45 PM
I've rebuilt mine like three times - might have something to do with re-using old parts...

FJAggie07
01-02-2008, 02:04 PM
That's awesome, I've never seen so many new parts go into a toyota rebuild. assembly techniques look similar to our though. More beer drinking than building.

Only things new is new cam, new pistons, timing chain and guide, oil pump and I think that is about it besides the usual bearings and seals and rebuild stuff. Most of the shiny stuff you see is cause I took the bench grinder to most of the parts to make a nice clean seal. I have a new oil trap coming today, new headers (as you can see :D), new cat blah blah blah...

colman
01-02-2008, 08:55 PM
rv hehe, yea i got one of those

davido
01-02-2008, 09:43 PM
Coming along. Time to get back on the trail. Post more pics of the 4Runner. Come beat the piss out of the FJCruiser this weekend for old time sakes. :)

redcagepatrol
01-02-2008, 10:36 PM
I'm running 4:10's in the axles and 4.7:1 gears in the second case. It would suck to drive a long distance that way but it's do-able. I have driven it to college Station and back a time or two - but it sucks. You'll never see 5th gear unless your in low-low range...

So - if you want to drive it on the street, do the 5:29's and have them cryo'd. I would also set up a spare third member so you can be sure to make it home without pulling apart both axles...

I've broken one stock inner shaft, one T-case output, a set or two of rear V6 4:10 gears, and the rear welded spider gears.

I've since upgraded the front "old style" Bobby Long birfields to new 300M ones and went to 4340 shafts all around. Still a stock t-case output - I had a spare and it took like 9 years of abuse to break.

FJAggie07
01-03-2008, 09:21 AM
Coming along. Time to get back on the trail. Post more pics of the 4Runner. Come beat the piss out of the FJCruiser this weekend for old time sakes. :)

That was the plan, but I didn't get enough work done on it last weekend and my faithful friends and crew (the ones who know all the ins and outs of this motor and more importantly how to hook up the hoses on the EFI :gigem: ) only have next sunday to work before preparing for our Jamboree. :(

FJAggie07
01-03-2008, 09:23 AM
I'm running 4:10's in the axles and 4.7:1 gears in the second case. It would suck to drive a long distance that way but it's do-able. I have driven it to college Station and back a time or two - but it sucks. You'll never see 5th gear unless your in low-low range...

So - if you want to drive it on the street, do the 5:29's and have them cryo'd. I would also set up a spare third member so you can be sure to make it home without pulling apart both axles...

I've broken one stock inner shaft, one T-case output, a set or two of rear V6 4:10 gears, and the rear welded spider gears.

I've since upgraded the front "old style" Bobby Long birfields to new 300M ones and went to 4340 shafts all around. Still a stock t-case output - I had a spare and it took like 9 years of abuse to break.


Thanks, I have definitely decided to go 5.29's. I will definitely get longs all around. Hey it is only money right? :(

JeepPhisherman
01-03-2008, 09:26 AM
Thanks, I have definitely decided to go 5.29's. I will definitely get longs all around. Hey it is only money right? :(

Jesus, need a business associate?

FJAggie07
01-03-2008, 09:28 AM
Jesus, need a business associate?

Why do I need a business associate to help me go into debt?!? :flipoff2:

JeepPhisherman
01-03-2008, 09:30 AM
Ah, financing the truck build, always a great idea!

I've talked myself into only spending wallet cash on the 4runner thus far.

FJAggie07
01-03-2008, 09:36 AM
twas a joke my good friend, I am not financing anything. I have a goal of March 9, to be wheelable. That is my birthday and when I would like to be wheeling the Truck at LSLC Roundup in Katemcy. Christmas Bonus's do help tho. (Once you set aside the stuff for buying a house yeesh...)

JeepPhisherman
01-03-2008, 09:49 AM
twas a joke my good friend, I am not financing anything. I have a goal of March 9, to be wheelable. That is my birthday and when I would like to be wheeling the Truck at LSLC Roundup in Katemcy. Christmas Bonus's do help tho. (Once you set aside the stuff for buying a house yeesh...)

Ah, bonuses, I forgot those existed, the ****tiness of working for an employee owned company...

JeepPhisherman
01-03-2008, 09:50 AM
twas a joke my good friend, I am not financing anything. I have a goal of March 9, to be wheelable. That is my birthday and when I would like to be wheeling the Truck at LSLC Roundup in Katemcy. Christmas Bonus's do help tho. (Once you set aside the stuff for buying a house yeesh...)

I might have to try and make this one to watch, Katemcy is just too close to me now.

Reckless
01-03-2008, 10:26 AM
Why do I need a business associate to help me go into debt?!? :flipoff2:


He's getting married,so thats help enought :flipoff2:

jerryg79
01-03-2008, 10:30 AM
Sweet, 3 days into the new year, and already discussions of FJkid's finances. I think Grayson had that in the pot :flipoff2: :D

FJAggie07
01-03-2008, 11:02 AM
So in march I will be running skinny 34" LTBs until I can find some 37's to wrap around my 15" wheels.

How hard is it to regear a transfer case from you folks that have done it before. I am going to let a shop up here install my lockers and gears all at once but I don't plan on doing the second transfer case until the summer. I already have the second t-case and am buying the IFS steering box on Sunday for the hy-steer.

I think lift, steering, gears, lockers, and a little protection and I should be wheeling.

JeepPhisherman
01-03-2008, 11:03 AM
So in march I will be running skinny 34" LTBs until I can find some 37's to wrap around my 15" wheels.

How hard is it to regear a transfer case from you folks that have done it before. I am going to let a shop up here install my lockers and gears all at once but I don't plan on doing the second transfer case until the summer. I already have the second t-case and am buying the IFS steering box on Sunday for the hy-steer.

I think lift, steering, gears, lockers, and a little protection and I should be wheeling.

I haven't done it, but after reading up on it, it sounds like a pretty simple job. I'll let you know first hand here in a couple of weeks, or you can come lend a hand and we can hit up 4th street.

FJAggie07
01-24-2008, 01:05 PM
Ok I have a weekend lined up to do a WAT. I still need to figure out what to do so I need input from people who actually value money and not just telling me to get the best and think i have no cap on my funds. The reason I am doing a lot of this in kits and new and not sourcing from the Junk Yards is the WAT is set up for the weekend of the 2nd and I need to get parts lined up now.

I need a lift kit that includes Hy-steer. I already have the IFS PS Pump so I was looking around and the amount of money people want for a leaf spring lift kit is unbelievable. I want to do this thing right, but All-Pro and Marlin are at $1600 plus shipping and Trail Gear is at $999. I hate Trail Gear but for $700 I don't hate them that much do i? What are ya'lls recommendations?

Next is Locker and Gears. I am going 5.29's and Lock-rites, I don't want to drop money on gears and then just weld them. I was piecing together the diffs and I am looking at at least $600 for each diff with new gears and lockers and master install kits and shipping, OR I can just order a whole drop in Diff for $760 from Marlin. Since I know jack diddly squat about setting gears I dont want to attempt it myself and I really don't want to take the time to run it over to Baertrax to have them install a damn lockrite. What do ya'll think, have someone set them or drop-in a diff? Where do ya'll suggest purchasing said parts?

Finally I am going to run some 34" skinnies I have for now, but I would like to run around a 37" tire on a 15x10 rim. This is going to be a trailer queen for now and I would like to know opinions on tires, favorite brand and tread pattern for about a 37x12.5. Also does anyone make a skinny 37" cause I kinda like the tall and skinny tires?


Thanks guys for the input, and Cox and Jerry lets keep this on topic and off the topic of Faggie and my financial position for at least a couple of days so I can actually get some opinions. Thanks gentleman.

bburris
01-24-2008, 01:12 PM
Don't MTRs come in a 37x12.5?

I would vote for the drop-in diffs since that will mean you have a couple of spares to keep on-hand in case you need another one down the line.

scottsdale87
01-24-2008, 01:20 PM
If you want to go 37's you might want to look into 17" rims. I have found that most tires coming in 37" and taller are made for 17's. If your stuck on the 15's I know that MTR's come in a 37 12.50 15....... 12.50 is probally the skinniest your going to find. But i think i saw some 38 11.00 boggers, but they looked funny. IMO

Seth
01-24-2008, 01:22 PM
WAT? wrench a thon?

dropping money on gears and then welding is ok. you dont weld the r&P, so you can put in lockah latah.

drop ins are cool.

go military tires.

jerryg79
01-24-2008, 01:28 PM
If you want to go 37's you might want to look into 17" rims. I have found that most tires coming in 37" and taller are made for 17's. If your stuck on the 15's I know that MTR's come in a 37 12.50 15....... 12.50 is probally the skinniest your going to find. But i think i saw some 38 11.00 boggers, but they looked funny. IMO

super swamper does make a 38.5/11 bogger that would be wierd looking though.

see i keeps it clean.

DRAGOONRANCH
01-24-2008, 01:29 PM
If you want to go 37's you might want to look into 17" rims. I have found that most tires coming in 37" and taller are made for 17's. If your stuck on the 15's I know that MTR's come in a 37 12.50 15....... 12.50 is probally the skinniest your going to find. But i think i saw some 38 11.00 boggers, but they looked funny. IMO

I have a set of those boggers at the house, they are peemp. :flipoff3:

JeepPhisherman
01-24-2008, 01:32 PM
Piece the lift together. Do what everyone else does and get some 63" chebbys and throw the rears up front. Or find something for the rears and I've got a set of 4" marlin fronts I'll sell you.

I went with Marlin for steering, I bought it on sale so it was like $10 more than trail-gears ****.

Check PORC for gears/lockers/install, but I'd got the drop in route for ease and the availability of spare 3rds.

Didn't they start making a 37" LTB?

FJAggie07
01-24-2008, 01:32 PM
super swamper does make a 38/11.50 bogger that would be wierd looking though.

see i keeps it clean.

Thank you sir.

I will be running my 34's on 17's. I have a set of 17x8's and a set of 15x10's.

I would prefer not to spend MTR money if i can help it.

You say military tires? I know nothing of these, don't they normally come in a 16.5" and how aggressive are they? Can they be ballanced worth a damn for possible road use?

FJAggie07
01-24-2008, 01:32 PM
WAT? wrench a thon?

dropping money on gears and then welding is ok. you dont weld the r&P, so you can put in lockah latah.

drop ins are cool.

go military tires.


Yes sir, Wrench-a-Thon.

FJAggie07
01-24-2008, 01:35 PM
Piece the lift together. Do what everyone else does and get some 63" chebbys and throw the rears up front. Or find something for the rears and I've got a set of 4" marlin fronts I'll sell you.

I went with Marlin for steering, I bought it on sale so it was like $10 more than trail-gears ****.

Check PORC for gears/lockers/install, but I'd got the drop in route for ease and the availability of spare 3rds.

Didn't they start making a 37" LTB?

I would do the chevy springs but I wont have access to a welder that weekend to redo spring hangers and the such.

JeepPhisherman
01-24-2008, 01:36 PM
I would do the chevy springs but I wont have access to a welder that weekend to redo spring hangers and the such.

Do it before then? The placement of hangers is well documented on POR.

What are you doing about d-shafts?

edit: (I wanted to just say "shafts", but I didn't want to give you the impression that I was comming on to you.)

FJAggie07
01-24-2008, 01:40 PM
Do it before then? The placement of hangers is well documented on POR.

What are you doing about d-shafts?

edit: (I wanted to just say "shafts", but I didn't want to give you the impression that I was comming on to you.)

Haven't thought bout it yet, that was next

CRaSHnBuRN
01-24-2008, 01:59 PM
I have a set of those boggers at the house, they are peemp. :flipoff3:

Hey, want to give up one of those boggers? I need a spare and one of those skinny boggers would work well for that

Seth
01-24-2008, 03:05 PM
search michelin xml. or xl. they have 11 inch wide for 20s that are over 40 inches tall. also a 36-38 inch tall taire that runs a 16" wheel. 9.00-16 is the size. i cant remeber hieights exactly.

davido
01-24-2008, 04:15 PM
I would spend the money at the Tcase gearing, not the axles. Weld the axles and spend that money on doubler/underdrive. Maybe I missed where you've already done that, but there are a lot of things I would buy before lockers, especially any locker other than a Detroit or ARB (ie. full, not lunchbox). Upgraded axles. Hydro assist. Spare tires. Springs. Booze.

If it were me I would probably run a lighter sidewall tire than a swamper b/c of axles and overall weight. Probably MTRs or BFGs. I love my TSLs though, so I'd probably flirt with that. Maybe IROCS, but I'd talk to some owners on that. The guys I've seen with them in the past haven't been that impressive. Boggers look cool (probably the coolest looking tire out there), but I'm not a fan of their performance either. Others might disagree. I always use to dig SXs on Toys too.

I haven't really followed any actual Toyota mods in a while. For steering, I would think you could buy the arms and make the rest (tube inserts, tubing, and heims/TREs). But then again, the way some of these guys whore this stuff out there may not be much in the way of savings there anway.

Sounds like a cool build.

FJAggie07
01-24-2008, 04:31 PM
Well the other reason I am not welding is while this thing will be a trailer queen it will also be needed on the road too. I want to make sure I can drive down the road to Gilmer if it comes down to it. Especially since I will be borrowing a trailer and tow rig as I do not have a bumper pull car hauler for the Tundra yet.

I believe my best bet as far as steering goes is still buying it do to my time constraints and the fact that I dont think i can save that much money making myself.

I will be replacing axles and doing the doubler at a later date.

Doug Krebs
01-24-2008, 04:33 PM
You can still drive on the street with a welded diff. Plenty of people DD welded rears. It chirps the tires all the time and you get ****ty tire wear, but I wouldn't let that stop you. Especially if it's on a limited basis.

Seth
01-24-2008, 04:43 PM
dave brings up a good point with tire weight on those axles. scott ran SX'x? but they were smaller I think. I know I have seen guys run trails with BFG's etc and tires are usually not the limiting factor.

jerryg79
01-24-2008, 04:53 PM
dave brings up a good point with tire weight on those axles. scott ran SX'x? but they were smaller I think. I know I have seen guys run trails with BFG's etc and tires are usually not the limiting factor.

scott had ssr's i believe.

Seth
01-24-2008, 04:55 PM
thats it.

bburris
01-24-2008, 04:56 PM
Yeah, the ones he still runs last time I saw a picture. Those seem to flex well and come in a 37x12.5R15 as well.

eight
01-24-2008, 05:35 PM
I DD'd the jeep with a welded diff for 4 years, when it ran or was not too cold or rainy. No adverse handling effects, just some noise. Never noticed wear from it either, wear comes from Katemcy.

davido
01-24-2008, 05:58 PM
scott had ssr's i believe.

Yes, Scott has SARS.

:)


And to your driver point, MANY people have done it. You unlock the front hubs and go. Busa. Scott. Jason. Matt. All of those guys' rigs are (Toy) drivers and welded.

FJAggie07
01-24-2008, 06:17 PM
Thanks Guys. I didn't know that many people ran the rigs on the road.

william_ace
01-24-2008, 06:32 PM
i know its a little different but i had a detroit locker in my truck for a while, it wasnt bad at all. but thats not welding i know.

uglyota
01-24-2008, 10:05 PM
so you're going to try and build this thing without lowering the front spring hangers? You really have to, as it provides clearance between the pitman and springs. Otherwise you have to have your bumpstops so high that you don't get any stuff, need too much lift...seriously do it now or regret it later

DRAGOONRANCH
01-24-2008, 10:53 PM
Hey, want to give up one of those boggers? I need a spare and one of those skinny boggers would work well for that

Kolpecker has dibs if I end up selling them.

Graystroke
01-24-2008, 11:46 PM
if you don't like the welding just get a full spool or a mini...the you can take it out if you don't like it. they're cheap

FJAggie07
01-25-2008, 12:18 PM
To make it easy and to meet my deadlines of getting my parts in by next friday, with the help of Toyota Of Dallas I got on their set up stock order with Randy's R&P. They are going to go ahead and build two toy 8in drop in 3rds with 5.29s and lock-rites. Cheaper than Marlin by a little bit and no shipping since it is tagged on with their stock order. And I have two spare thirds that can be used as spares or sold to make up for some of the extra money used to buy drop-ins instead of having Baertrax do it.

FJAggie07
01-25-2008, 12:20 PM
Now for the lift kit... Hopefully someone calls me back at Marlin so I can place the order today. If not I am getting in touch with Terry at All-Pro.


I am going to run my skinny 34" swampers for a couple of months since the woman has clamped down on my nuts on my spending and I cant get any more than gears and lift.... :(

uglyota
01-25-2008, 12:39 PM
what was the price difference btw full detroit and lock-rite? Seems that the main cost advantage in going lunchbox is that you don't have to set up the gears...but you were having them set up anyway? 5.29 cryoed?

davido
01-25-2008, 01:00 PM
Strength is the big difference IMO.

FJAggie07
01-25-2008, 01:07 PM
what was the price difference btw full detroit and lock-rite? Seems that the main cost advantage in going lunchbox is that you don't have to set up the gears...but you were having them set up anyway? 5.29 cryoed?

The 5.29s are Yukons and I am not sure what all is done to em but I have never heard someone break-em (I am sure in this club someone has :D)

The difference in the Detroit was $200/third, so $400 total.

FJAggie07
01-25-2008, 01:08 PM
Strength is the big difference IMO.

Yeah and because you and a few others mentioned that I did a ton of research on the lock-rite to make sure it would withstand and from what I looked at, and the fact that I will be keeping my tires in a decent size I do not believe my weak point will be the locker until after I replace the axles and birfs.

agjohn02
01-25-2008, 01:10 PM
id prolly pony up the $400 now. it'll just end up costing you a lot more to buy them later, reset gears, possible broken time, they dont always work like they are supposed to, etc.

william_ace
01-25-2008, 01:11 PM
i agree, i'd just go ahead and put them in now. then you'll be done with it

uglyota
01-25-2008, 01:18 PM
I'm sure it's too late now but given that those dudes are probably $700/ea that is a pretty small corner to cut for such a huge difference in result

FJAggie07
01-25-2008, 01:43 PM
Yeah they are $700 each and they have already got them going. :(

If I were to bump up 400, I would rather just upgrade later to the ARB's. At this point I don't know how long I will keep the truck and since they are already in the process I will wheel them the way they are running probably a 35 or 36 skinny to make sure I am safe until I decide to sell the truck or upgrade.

uglyota
01-25-2008, 01:50 PM
Don't worry about it, I'm sure they'll keep you happy for a couple of years. I've never had any complaints about having a lock-rite in front (well, except turning radius but I am not paying for an ARB), you get to wheel right now and if you don't like them you can keep your eyes open for a deal on a hi-pinion with elocker or ARB setup, and sell yours

JeepPhisherman
01-25-2008, 02:48 PM
I am going to run my skinny 34" swampers for a couple of months since the woman has clamped down on my nuts on my spending and I cant get any more than gears and lift.... :(

No ****, you're plopping down $3K on that thing in a matter of days!

What's your plan for a cage?

FJAggie07
01-25-2008, 04:00 PM
Am i? sheesh... Well hopefully it is worth it :D

FJAggie07
01-25-2008, 04:02 PM
No ****, you're plopping down $3K on that thing in a matter of days!

What's your plan for a cage?

I will buy one of those dissasembled ones and weld it up. I don't really want to do an exo since I will be making this thing drive to some of my wheeling events. An exo would put a LOT of weight on that 22RE. I will buy it when I get around to fabbing up bumpers and sliders in about 6 months

JeepPhisherman
01-25-2008, 06:35 PM
Am i? sheesh... Well hopefully it is worth it :D

If I wheeled as much as you, I guess I could justify it too.

I'll have to come check out the truck when you get a cage in.

FJAggie07
01-25-2008, 07:54 PM
If I wheeled as much as you, I guess I could justify it too.

I'll have to come check out the truck when you get a cage in.

You know I wheel once a month in the winter, and twice a month in the may to sept range, and the purchases that have been the most valuable to all of my wheeling have been the ones made to make Amanda happy and more comfortable wheeling and camping with me.

The RTT, the Tundra, tons of camping gear, digital camera etc. has all been to help her have a great time wheeling and now that I have her comfortable it is time to finally get a rig going that doesn't feel like I have lost a nut when I kill a fender. :gigem:

FJAggie07
01-30-2008, 10:41 AM
Alright update for the thread, I have everything coming in on Friday. Full 5.29, lock-rited drop in 3rds, and an All-Pro Extreme Lift kit. 4" springs in the front, 5" springs in the rear, they cut a couple of hundred off the price and then did 3-Day Air shipping for the same shipping as Marlin Crawler. Just now need some 2.75" wide Rear spring hangers and I don't have the time to fab any.

redcagepatrol
01-30-2008, 11:09 AM
The 5.29s are Yukons and I am not sure what all is done to em but I have never heard someone break-em (I am sure in this club someone has :D)

The difference in the Detroit was $200/third, so $400 total.

I broke one, Lynda broke two (or three), and I know of at least five others that have failed. Typically the pins sheer and then screw up the teeth. I will never buy that crap again. It's either real cheap (welded) or real expensive - a full Detroit for me. It's like buying tools - except it's more expensive and frustrating to repair...

uglyota
01-30-2008, 11:13 AM
3 1/2" square tubing, 3/8" wall + torch + drill

your kit is coming with longer rear springs, right? Are you sure hangers aren't included?

FJAggie07
01-30-2008, 11:25 AM
They are included but were out of stock as of yesterday and wont be coming by this sunday when we are welding everything up.

That is how I was thinking about making them, I just need to source the Tube and either a chop saw or a torch for Sunday.

FJAggie07
01-30-2008, 11:26 AM
And a drill press...

Or I buy them, I think I will head over to Expert Offroad at lunch and see what they can make for me real quick.

Seth
01-30-2008, 11:36 AM
I know this was discussed, but after seeing that order, I agree that loc-rites kinda seem ridiculous. I am trying to think of a good analogy here...

agjohn02
01-30-2008, 11:37 AM
a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link?


there's no I in team?

Seth
01-30-2008, 11:40 AM
I was thinking of something like putting golden state oil in your 40k truck. or running walmart tires on a ferrari. simile? metaphor?

agjohn02
01-30-2008, 11:47 AM
yeah, i know what you meant but i couldnt think of anything catchy enough.

FJAggie07
01-30-2008, 11:52 AM
beats welding in my opinion.

bcolman
01-30-2008, 12:11 PM
there's no I in team?

but there is a me :flipoff2::flipoff2:

mudtoy67
01-30-2008, 12:37 PM
no, there's not. But there is a me in meat.:rainbow:

:flipoff2:

BMFScout
01-30-2008, 12:43 PM
beats welding in my opinion.

I say in the front yes, in the rear no. That being said, Frederick Von Brune has wheeled lockrights front and back for awhile and only had a problem with the front once. Lurch is a mechanical miracle though, so take that as you will.

AggieTJ2007
01-30-2008, 04:59 PM
lockrites are ok in the front but don't hay to be pretty small to drop into a toyota third?

too bad can't change it now but when it breaks it will end up welded together like ed's

Seth
01-30-2008, 05:45 PM
but don't hay to be pretty small

WTF?

uglyota
01-31-2008, 09:58 AM
I think lockrites have the honor of being one of a very few parts that Busa has flogged on and been able to sell in working condition (to me!). And he's broken a full detroit!

FJAggie07
01-31-2008, 11:05 AM
So right now everyone has varying opinions, but the key is people think lockrites = bad news bears. Well I will run smaller tires for now. When I switch everything to Longs in a year I will switch to ARB's as well.

davido
01-31-2008, 11:12 AM
Probably because they slip Erik. Just like, it's hard to break axles running all terrains. Same idea. Chances are it will be fine. I ran one in my IFS front end, it always out lasted the shaft outters.

uglyota
01-31-2008, 11:23 AM
because they slip

when did lockrite's start slipping?

Chris you're not running any kind of longs? Don't put that axle together without some sort of upgraded axles in it. I might be able to hook you up

FJAggie07
01-31-2008, 11:28 AM
when did lockrite's start slipping?

Chris you're not running any kind of longs? Don't put that axle together without some sort of upgraded axles in it. I might be able to hook you up

Not yet, I was just going to look at the axles and re-pack the birf's anyways and since I am only running 34x10.5's for a couple of months figured I would find out just how weak the stock shafts were before I throw myself into debt running Long's immediately.

If you got a connection or know someone who has them for sale I would be very interested, just wasn't going to drop the money just yet since I am building this thing from stock and doing it pretty quickly.

CheapJeep
01-31-2008, 11:34 AM
I broke one, Lynda broke two (or three), and I know of at least five others that have failed. Typically the pins sheer and then screw up the teeth. I will never buy that crap again. It's either real cheap (welded) or real expensive - a full Detroit for me. It's like buying tools - except it's more expensive and frustrating to repair...
Add me to the list... I broke the one I had in my 8.8", sheared a pin and the teeth wouldn't engage. I ended up welding it in the end.

DRAGOONRANCH
01-31-2008, 12:05 PM
lockrites are ok in the front but don't hay to be pretty small to drop into a toyota third?

too bad can't change it now but when it breaks it will end up welded together like ed's

viva la Jabnasty!!!!!

robertf03
01-31-2008, 01:33 PM
Add me to the list... I broke the one I had in my 8.8", sheared a pin and the teeth wouldn't engage. I ended up welding it in the end.


I've seen a few of these, and if you look at the pin there is usually a crack that has the plating in it meaning it was defective to begin with. I usually see the cross pin for sale on the same page as drop in lockers, there is probably a reason for that.

ARB's or drop in's, nothing else exists in my book :gigem:

Fredo
01-31-2008, 01:46 PM
The only lockright I've broken still somewhat worked even though it made some interesting popping noises. As Jimmy stated, Lurch is a bit of a mechanical miracle, but still, even with one pin in tact, it still worked enough to wheel the rest of the day on.

http://tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?p=132515&highlight=lockright#post132515

TxCruzr
01-31-2008, 02:29 PM
I've had a lockright in the front for 6 or 7 years without a problem. I do know that most cruiser guys that put one in the rear usually brake it pretty quick though.
As for upgrading your stock birfs, if you are going to be running smaller tires, don't worry about it till you break one. Just pay attention and don't get stupid with the wheels cranked and in reverse.

FJAggie07
03-23-2008, 06:04 PM
So it has been a while since I got to update this thread. Yesterday we dropped the engine and tranny in the truck and it fired up after a lot of persuasion. Was a good 9 hours in the driveway but it was good progress that hasn't been made yet. Still don't have the timing perfect so it isn't idling right but I plan on getting that wrapped up in the next two weeks.

On a brighter note getting 170 PSI on the number 1 cylinder was kinda cool :gigem:

FJAggie07
03-31-2008, 02:45 PM
The beast runs and drives!

She still looks bone stock but the ***** is idling and loud as hell! :gigem:

I drove her home Saturday night, fixed the idle problem with a new TPS Sensor. The 5.29's and LockRites make it fun to drive, especially when you are going 60 and the speedo reads 85... The Exhaust that I bought in pieces from Summit blows donkey balls. One of my exhaust manifold bolt holes is stripped worse than sh!t and there is no bolt making one hell of a leak. The connection pipe from the headers to the Cat is wrong and making the Cat hang down lower than the frame and sitting about two inches to the rear of what it should. This made for some interesting innovation of attaching the old muffler to the cat but with enough beer and bailing wire I have an exhaust system! :gigem:

The project is officially being put on hold until after I get married in May. I realized I needed to stop working on trucks and start holding the fiances hand until the big day. In May I plan on installing lift and steering and tires and repainting her Dune Beige. Then I am wheeling the *****!

Sharpe
03-31-2008, 03:19 PM
I realized I needed to stop working on trucks and start holding the fiances hand until the big day.

I predict you will sell this within 2 months, 7 days of your funeral...er uh wedding.

uglyota
03-31-2008, 03:27 PM
Some exhaust advice:
If your header didn't come with a gasket, order one from Thorley, they're beefy and way cheaper than the $70 dealer one.
Helicoil all the studs when you repair the one
Put some sort of flex in the exhaust directly behind the header. Your muffler/cat will hit rocks and it will cause header leaks if you don't

FJAggie07
03-31-2008, 03:48 PM
I predict you will sell this within 2 months, 7 days of your funeral...er uh wedding.

Haha, funny!

Nope. She is all for this cause it means she gets to wheel the FJC....:(

FJAggie07
03-31-2008, 03:49 PM
Some exhaust advice:
If your header didn't come with a gasket, order one from Thorley, they're beefy and way cheaper than the $70 dealer one.
Helicoil all the studs when you repair the one
Put some sort of flex in the exhaust directly behind the header. Your muffler/cat will hit rocks and it will cause header leaks if you don't

Advice all noted and will be done. Thank you sir! :)

uglyota
03-31-2008, 04:28 PM
no prob, I'll try and remember to take a pic this weekend of how my exhaust is currently set up, complete with Clarke's kickass rebar hanger!

RCcola55
03-31-2008, 05:18 PM
damn i forgot about that!

uglyota
04-26-2008, 03:46 PM
overdue pics

Eckert
04-26-2008, 06:30 PM
i bough ta $20 manifold gasket from napa. been on there for 6 months w/ a rusty no name used muffler, no leaks so far.

i didnt see much of an improvement, from the stock manifold/down pipe/IH muffler to the header, gutted cat, no name muffler.

uglyota
04-26-2008, 08:30 PM
what header, and what size pipe?

Eckert
04-26-2008, 08:33 PM
i have no idea. never cared to measure. it came off a hoped up 22r(if thats possibe) that melted a piston.

FJAggie07
07-28-2008, 10:17 AM
Ok time to update this thread a bit, did some cosmetic work this weekend:

-Removed the Top
-Installed driver side window regulator
-Installed new window felt and door panels
-Replaced gauges with SR5 Gauges for battery volt gauge thingy and Tach (though it doesn't work, think i am missing a fuse somewhere)
-Took apart the old speedo and odometer and started rolling it back but took WAY too much work.
-Painted and installed Marlin Crawler Rear bumper
-Took off the shatty chrome excuse for a bumper, roughed it up and shot it with black rustoleum and stuck it back on there.

All in all made for a fun Saturday. Next Saturday it is off to the Exhaust shop to fix the header bolt hole and weld me up some new pipe to put on the new muffler.

Got a big wrench a thon with my local club in August where we plan on taking two days and re-doing all the suspension and installing hy-steer and am IFS steering box.

After that I weld up the sliders and we be wheeling by september. :D




On a side note this project has officially been named Project WOFTAM Jr.

FJAggie07
07-28-2008, 10:18 AM
Oh and WOFTAM = Waste of F*cking Time and Money

JeepPhisherman
07-28-2008, 10:23 AM
Where'd you get the new panels for the doors?

FJAggie07
07-28-2008, 10:59 AM
Didn't get new ones, just had the old ones off for the past year :) Just cleaned them up with soap and water and installed new felt and new window knob thingies. All the handles can be had from TRDParts4u.com, actually I just bought an FJ40 hood from them because Toyota still makes 40 hoods (whodathunkit?) so they may have complete door panels.

I also installed a new toyota emblem :D

JeepPhisherman
07-28-2008, 11:26 AM
Didn't get new ones, just had the old ones off for the past year :) Just cleaned them up with soap and water and installed new felt and new window knob thingies. All the handles can be had from TRDParts4u.com, actually I just bought an FJ40 hood from them because Toyota still makes 40 hoods (whodathunkit?) so they may have complete door panels.

I also installed a new toyota emblem :D

Probably more than I want to spend on them. I've got some black aluminum diamond plate I was planning on using, but I'd rather have the stock panels and mine are a little beat up.

uglyota
07-28-2008, 12:22 PM
The still make 40s, don't they? Just can't get them here.

Bet the muffler shop wants to pull your head to fix that stud. Get a reamer and helicoil and do it yourself.

I want a picture of that new emblem when you smash it. :flipoff2:

FJAggie07
07-28-2008, 12:46 PM
The still make 40s, don't they? Just can't get them here.

Bet the muffler shop wants to pull your head to fix that stud. Get a reamer and helicoil and do it yourself.

I want a picture of that new emblem when you smash it. :flipoff2:

No they stopped making the 40 for South America a couple of years ago.

I don't have a problem doing the Helicoil myself but as long as I have it at the shop I was going to have them do it, let's see what they want as far as money.

The Emblem is just a sticker TOYOTA on the right side of the grill. All the parts installed were included when I bought the truck it just took me 10 months to get them on. :D