Ultimate Shop Setup

[davido]

Add ideas for your additions to the ultimate (DIY beer budget type) shop setup.

I ran across this and it seemed like a good idea for air compressor drying (especially for sand blasting). Maybe a good addition for Brandon's shop. :)

http://www.1969supersport.com/draw1.html

[robertf03]

I don't know if 50' is necessary, but you do need some distance between the compressor and seperators. I've got a separator immediately off the 3' flex line before the hardline on mine, and 6' away I've got another separator on an outlet and it catches more stuff than the first one. My setup could really use an "intercooler" type deal before the first separator.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Looks like he plans to do alot of painting, so he's probably just being cautious.

[Seth]

That seems a little odd to me, but I'm not terribly educated on the subject. If you need distance then why not run the compressor (and noise) farther away from your work space? Also could add multiple connection points around a shop. We have a fancy dryer at work now, but used to have one pipe that held moisture that we drained, also at most of the work stations there is a collector that can be drained.

Also, from what I understand, the really dry air is more important for blasting and spraying, not as much air tools.

[Fredo]

That guy seems really really paranoid about moisture in his system. He went through a lot of trouble for nothing. It's not like an air line is going to ever be perfectly level, so why go through the trouble of putting such angles in the system to allow for drain off? Also, if he would use a decent drier he wouldn't even need to drain the system other than his tank. If you were going to be painting, or even running air tools, the cleaner and dryer the air, the better off you will be. If I were building a shop, this is what I'd use: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DeVILBISS-DAD-500-DESICCANT-AIR-DRYER-FILTER-Spray-Gun_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43987QQihZ010QQitem Z200186474015QQtcZphoto

sure, it's a bit of an investment, but it's nice when you don't have to worry about contamination or moisture tearing up your tools or ruining a paint job.

[BMFScout]

psssst...Fred, push the **** we sell, good for business! :gigem:

http://www.hankisonintl.com/Products/CompressedAirDryingProducts.htm

[BMFScout]

If we're going low buck though we need to have Grayson explain his dad's dryer.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

For $420+, do you think his system would be any cheaper? Granted, it would be a much easeier install.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

psssst...Fred, push the **** we sell, good for business! :gigem:

http://www.hankisonintl.com/Products/CompressedAirDryingProducts.htm


I'll take one of everything as long as it comes w/ a Collins Bros. discount.....

:gigem:

[eight]

Slope the air lines so you can have one drain at the end. Use an autodrain filter just past the tank. Each air line should run vertical up from the main line and then bend down. This will get you pretty clean air good for most things. For painting, have another autodrain filter with a desicant drier behind it which you plug into whatever air line drop you are going to use. I haven't had a problem blasting with air that just went through a filter.

[Seth]

here (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EATON-REFRIGERATED-DRYER-FOR-5-7-5-HP-AIR-COMPRESSORS_W0QQitemZ130185513830QQihZ003QQcategor yZ43986QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

for 100 bucks more, is this a better deal? (than the type deal fred posted)

[tigweld]

there is far less upkeep with the 550$ one compared to the dessicant(sp?) style because in very humid invironments like texas it needs to be replaced quite often

there are also much cheaper brands in the style like fred posted
devillbiss=cadillac of paint guns

[eight]

Those are better. You don't have to change dessicant, but they are more complex. I think for the low volume any of us would use you're better off with the simpler dissicant drier. You should be able to get the first 2 stages of the filter Fred posted for under $100, how much they list for Fred/Jimmy? Yall sell Norgren? I deal with things that are much more expensive than any automotive tools and such and have only once seen a drier called for. Usually its just a $50 Norgren filter/regulator. All I could see one being used for is paint, and that would be a cheap dessicant one.

[davido]

Since those eBay ads will long be gone by the time I need to reference this thread:

Fred's posting: DeVILBISS DAD-500 DESICCANT AIR DRYER/FILTER-Spray Gun

Seth's posting: EATON REFRIGERATED DRYER FOR 5-7.5 HP AIR COMPRESSORS

[Seth]

Just FYI - I don't know what refrigerated dryer brand is best, that was just the first one that popped up. I guess that's eaton like diffs/superchargers/etc? I know they cover a pretty broad selection of products.

The refrigerated dryer part in a search will get you in the ballpark.

[Graystroke]

that first one is dumb. I picked up two powered dryers both have 110v fans that blow across the condensor plus...as bonus a I got a 10 hp compressor and a 5hp compressor. all of it for $100. that was the deal of the 1990's! My Dad's setup consist of copper pipe ran up and down on a piece of plywood about 4' X 4'. at the bottom of each dip is a ball valve to drain the moisture....works ok. for lines the best way is to slope the line. away up from the compressor..I think it is dumb to slope it that much only has to be an 1/8" every so often. then when you branch off for your air tool supply lines just drop a piece down "t " off of that and extend the "t" w/ a ball valve. there are plans on the net somewhere. black pipe is the way to go. do not use PVC. it can and will shatter. gets brittle as it gets older. if someting knocks it it will blow. One thing I have heard that is newer is using a type of pex for airlines...there are kits for these. super easy to install b/c it is flexible....I wonder if the gray pex would work? the kind w/ the aluminum inner layer.

[robertf03]

i've heard that about pvc too, but I've seen many shops use pvc without a problem.

I used copper because soldering is easier than threading, but that was before copper became expensive.

[Graystroke]

I have seen the results. wasn't there but the guy showed be the shrapnel.

[Graystroke]

like this. this stuff is kinda stiff. it will bend and hold it's shape says 125psi @ 180 degrees...fairly cheap for 300 ft fittings are like $1-$2 a pc. I could borrow the tool from my plumber...hmmm
http://www.pexsupply.com/categories.asp?cID=225&brandid=

[BMFScout]

we used copper at BMF because it was free before our plumber took the great white flight to Mizzou.

[Sharpe]

Did he piss in your bucket of nails before he left :laughing:

[BMFScout]

I guess that's eaton like diffs/superchargers/etc? I know they cover a pretty broad selection of products.



They take over everything. They took over a New Jersey based filtration company called Hayward a couple of years ago and it's still fawked up. I would rather take a hammer to my bathing suit area than sell it. EVERY order is fawked. I hope the plant blows up and they are forced to shut down. :flipoff2: minus the :D and add a :angry:

[davido]

OK, on to the next section of the USS. What about lifts? What brands? Types? etc...

[Seth]

Rotary two post. with height extensions. symmetrical or not, not sure on the pros and cons there. 10 or 12 thousand lb cap. Run you 5 grand? Now stop dreaming about your "shop" at "the land" and reply to my PM! I could be a poster child for NOS energy drink today!

[bburris]

http://www.gladiatorgw.com/home.jsp

This whole setup is pretty nice. I'm sure there are better things out there, but for a complete garage system that would cover all your bases the cabinets and boxes hold up pretty well. The cabinets, workbench and the toolbox that fits under it are in my office and it's all pretty sturdy. I couldn't really justify Lista cabinets and drawer systems to my boss... Besides, everybody knows diamondplate is almost as good as glitter paint to a redneck.

If you cover your walls with the GearWall stuff you can hang all of the wall cabinets to it, and they sell hooks and such to hang hoses and bikes without finding studs in your garage. You can get a matching refrigerator and trash compactor, too. :D

[mudtoy67]

We had Rotary brand at Eaker's also. They were nice lifts. Easy to set up and use. I prefer the non-symetrical setup as it can be easier to get short wheelbase vehicles on... though it does get a bit nerve racking working under a long wheelbase vehicle since the rear end hangs farther from the posts. If you just happen to be cool enough to have two lifts, I would get the other as a four post drive-on. They are just so easy to work with, especially if you have the accessory jack that trolleys down the center of the lift.

[Seth]

BDR - you gotta get two of the bridge jacks. But then you hardly need the two post.

[mudtoy67]

Ya, bridge jack was the word I was looking for. I would still get a two post first though. It's pretty hard to pull an axle on a drive-on.

[Seth]

I'm at work right now and a few things just hit me. Seem like they are relatively inexpensive for a permanent shop setup.

Plumb for permanent heaters. Having ours right now is badass. We have more than a one man shop would need, because our doors are open and closed fairly regularly. The radiant ceiling mounted ones, or even a wall mount.

Lighting and light colored walls/floors/ceilings. Makes all the difference in the world. Kind of like when you are looking at something and think you are seeing it all, then put a droplight on it and it makes all the difference in the world. Just this is an all the time thing. Not sure what the price jump is from flourescent to sodium etc, but you do see them surplus pretty often. Skylights and multiple doors for nice days. Also eliminates the dungeon feel.

If steel construction, I would have a trolley crane.

Fans, keep it simple. High volume, low velocity. Keeps noise down. Exhaust fan(s) also.

Something I'm betting you could get cheap would be a set of exhaust hoses. I don't think you would need the entire vacuum setup.

Keep as much as you can off the floor, any place something touches the ground, dirt etc seem to gather.

Plenty of dedicated table space, and seperate tool storage space. Close together.

Good tunes. Doesn't need to be much, cheap reciever and two old speakers. Aux input. (tv and dvd if you are named brune)

Pisser, and big shop sink.

Good vice, grinder on a stand,

Outdoor lights, one place for all fluids to go.

[Sharpe]

Good tunes. Doesn't need to be much, cheap reciever and two old speakers. Aux input.
Dont forget super glue for the station knob if you have to share the work space :flipoff2:

[Graystroke]

except when you pull a 14 bolt from a two post lift the CG has a tendency to shift forward a little...I hear bad things can happen.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

porta-cool

[JeepPhisherman]

porta-cool

That would trump the **** out of a shop fan.

[Sharpe]

Porta-cools cool by misting water onto you right? If so, they get a "meh" from me. With 90% humidity in south Texas (or anywhere else along the coast) being misted with water would suck ass. You could just use the fan part like they do out in the shop here, they are nice and slow but move alot of air.

Has anyone mentioned being wired up for 3-phase power for the inevitable lathe and mill that any "ultimate shop" would require? Also, dont forget a roof that doesnt leak. The roof at my shop leaks in at least 30-40 places, but its an OLD building about 6k sq. ft. with a curved roof. That reminds me...I need to get it re-done...

[tigweld]

except when you pull a 14 bolt from a two post lift the CG has a tendency to shift forward a little...I hear bad things can happen.

thats what screw jacks are for.

[BMFScout]

thats what screw jacks are for.

I hear cinder blocks are what all the top fab shops in Wylie use!

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Porta-Cools have corrugated pads that the water flows over and as it evaporates, cools the air flowing over them. They are not the best in super himid environments, but will still drop the temperature in most others quite a bit more than just a fan. They are a bit on the high side, but one could be fabbed up cheap enough if you can find the pads, just so happens I have a few extras at the house. ;)

x2 on prewiring for 3 phase, you never know when you will come across a killa deal on a 3-phase (insert high dollar shop tool here).

[Seth]

We have a big black porta cool here at the shop that has been hooked up twice, both times by me. We have had 3 of the tan fans that work the same, two of the small ones, one of the big ones. One is used outside by the car washers, not sure how much they use the water part. One was mine, the water level got adjusted too high and locked the motor up. the other is up in the front, one guy uses it on low no water all the time. Swears its cooler on low.

When the AC went out in parts, they went out and bought a regular fan for 200 bucks, loud. Then they went to TSC and bought a porta cool with the little fan and tank underneath for 800+. Funny thing was, it got so humid in there with it running it was far more miserable.

This is all in addition to the two regular fans we have on top of every work station. They are loud and work ok. Too much air in one place.

I'm still wanting a big low speed shop fan (barrel style) on some good casters.

[Seth]

That's over $6000 in fans if you are keeping up. Just thought about that.

Also, I love my little $60 work fan. Like this. (http://www.napaonline.com/NOLViewer/Pages/Detail.aspx?R=67464&ShowPics=1) Easy to put right where you want it. Quiet, lots of air for size.

I also am on the look out for squirrel cages from house AC systems. Hook them up 110, they run half speed, and are near silent.

[JeepPhisherman]

Ah, not a porta cool then, I was thinking of a portable 1-ton A/C unit like this...
http://www.sunbeltrentals.com/catalog/equip_images/MC10SFU.G.172px.JPG

I don't know what they cost to own, as we rented a flotilla of them for a recent job, but they were bad doods. I guess a window-unit with some creative ducting could do the same thing.

[robertf03]

is a porta cool the same as a mr. mister?

[KrazyKarl02]

Has anyone mentioned being wired up for 3-phase power for the inevitable lathe and mill that any "ultimate shop" would require?

The Clyde in his infinite wisdom has researched this. You can get around it with a secret box that costs about $200 or you can buy a variable speed drive for a couple hundred bucks. The drive will allow you to power the mill or lathe and have infinite speed control.

He has one drive with a selector switch for either his lathe or mill. So the 3 phase is not such a big deal....

[agjohn02]

those inverters are not the ultimate solution. if you have the opportunity to run three phase its better. plus, a dynamic inverter is $$$. the cheap static ones arent great for your equipment and result in a good portion of lost power from what ive researched. i was looking at getting a 3 phase drill press at one time and checked into it.

[KrazyKarl02]

a dynamic inverter is $$$.


And running 3 phase to a normal house is economical?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

It is not too bad if it is done in conjuction w/ the wiring of a "new" shop. Just having it done by itself might be a little pricy.

[CheapJeep]

We have a porta-cool in our shop/barn. It kicks arse in the summer. The barn/shop/shed building structure was built by Morton.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

We have a porta-cool in our shop/barn. It kicks arse.


We have a porta-cool in our shop/barn. It kicks arse in the summer. The barn/shop/shed building structure was built by Morton.

ya don't say.... :flipoff3:

[CheapJeep]

Fixed it. I meant to edit the first post but accidentally posted twice.

[agjohn02]

And running 3 phase to a normal house is economical?


sorry, i forgot that "ultimate" meant "cheap redneck"

[jerryg79]

i wouldnt call it "cheap redneck", more economical.

[uglyota]

alright help me figure out a shop on a "30 stones" type budget.

I am thinking about buying this house. Great place, but the attached garage has been turned into a room. Sucks but it can't have been much of a garage in the first place and it will make a kickass movie room. I digress.

So I am eventually going to put a detached garage in the back yard. Thinking deep 1 1/2 car, with no intention of ever "parking" a car in it. But not yet. Guessing that'll probably cost me $20k that I won't have for a little while, so in the interim I need a place to work on vehicles where I won't get splinters in my back, and a place to store tools and bikes where I can access them easily and feel comfortable leaving them for a week at a time. So I need a slab and a shed.

Thinking about a 3" self-poured slab with no reinforcement, with dimensions about 2' wider and longer than a suburban (to keep stuff out of the dirt/grass), and a kustom shed that is real wide and not very deep, with a sturdy roll-up door? Maybe spend the money on a door I could re-use on the garage eventually?

Input welcomed and appreciated :flipoff2:

[mudtoy67]

I'd say go ahead and pour a good reinforced slab that you can still use after the garage is built...maybe even pour the slab that you intend to build the garage on. No sense in spending all that money on concrete if it's going to crack and have to be dug up when you're ready to build the garage.

[AggieTJ2007]

I agree don't waste your time onsomething that you are going to have to redo later.

[uglyota]

Don't you usually have to have the building planned out before pouring the slab, to incorporate anchors and conduit, etc?

Maybe I just need a small sea container right now

[mudtoy67]

You don't have to have the entire thing planned, just make a plan on where you want the walls/doors so embed plates can be installed in the floor. Even then, for the size you are wanting to build you probably don't even need those*. Any plumbing you may want can be added later through-wall.


*This is just an opinion, I am not a civil engineer nor am I licensed to practice as a civil engineer in the States of Texas, Colorado, or Inebriation. All advice may be accepted at advisee's own risk. Advisor is not responsible for injury, loss of limb, or increased hippieness as a result of structural failure. Always wear a seatbelt. Have your pet spayed or neutered.

[uglyota]

I was also thinking maybe I could just figure out where the apron will go on the finished product and pour it well so it could be kept.
Anybody got experience with those metal carports? Better/cheaper to just build a small pole barn?

please drink responsibly

[tigweld]

I would look into the sea containers, I'm thinkin bout gettin me one or two. they can be had for cheaper than a similar size tuff shed, they are sealed real well and can really take a beating.

[JeepPhisherman]

The only thing you would really need to be concerned about is underslab plumbing or electrical, if you're going to run it that way. I think you would be fine just mapping out where you want to have the eventual garage, pour a nice slab with mesh, and when you go to build, you can just use tapcons for attaching to the slab. Wiring can just be ran in conduits outside of the garage and burried.

You'd probably need a permit for pouring that though, maybe a bigger PITA than it's worth. You could always do concrete pavers for a temporary surface.

[Sharpe]

Do the container for now, then keep it for extra storage after you build the garage. I'm thinking about getting a midget one for my ranch to keep **** in down there.

[jerryg79]

rebar is cheap.

[uglyota]

the idea behind the 3" slab was easy removal.
Seems that the sea containers are primarily distributed by just a few companies. Whose got experience?

[RCcola55]

sharpe you need a container

[bcolman]

sharpe you need a container

i need one for my ranch if you have an extra

[AggieTJ2007]

sharpe you need a container

statement or question? punctuation is important kids. :flipoff2:

[uglyota]

:laughing:

[bburris]

I found a container sales place on craigslist for Dennis. He called and talked them down a little on the price but I think it was around $2000.

[Graystroke]

mobile mini...you can rent it

[Graystroke]

garage slab should run somewhere around 3.50-4.50 a foot turn key w/ real metal, no netwire crap.

[uglyota]

I found a container sales place on craigslist for Dennis. He called and talked them down a little on the price but I think it was around $2000.
holy jeez guess that means it's tuffshed for me. Plenty of people selling them on craigslist for $600 or less

[agjohn02]

the 40 footers are more than $2k now. they make a 20 footer also. check with DRMO, they have them free to cheap from what i hear.

[agjohn02]

btw, shipping containers, 3" slabs, and crack houses dont belong in the "ultimate shop setup" thread

edit: :flipoff2:

[JB]

rebar is cheap.

:eek:

Our concrete contract on a 20 acre job (apartments, maybe 250-300 units) just went up almost 50k in one day due to the price of steel.

[Doug Krebs]

:eek:

Our concrete contract on a 20 acre job (apartments, maybe 250-300 units) just went up almost 50k in one day due to the price of steel.

how much is the entire project costing?

[bcolman]

the 40 footers are more than $2k now. they make a 20 footer also. check with DRMO, they have them free to cheap from what i hear.

whats drmo?

[JB]

The concrete contract for that job is like 1.1mil, so 50k might not sound like alot, but my company is cheap.

That project is probably around 20 million? That a rough guess. I am doing an 11 acre, 192 unit project up here and it is 14 million.

[jerryg79]

is that in slabs and paving/flatwork?

[JB]

is that in slabs and paving/flatwork?

yes, i dont know if sidewalks are in that or not.

[agjohn02]

whats drmo?

Defense Reutilization Management Office

[JeepPhisherman]

:eek:

Our concrete contract on a 20 acre job (apartments, maybe 250-300 units) just went up almost 50k in one day due to the price of steel.

Like I said in the other thread, CMC metals tried to go up from 900 to 1350 a ton on us. That would have been a $1.9M hit on our job.

But generally speaking, no $0.50/ft isn't going to bankrupt someone on a garage slab.

[uglyota]

Has anyone run across a good example of a large 1-car garage on pirate or somewhere?
Are there generally restrictions on how far a detached garage has to be from the house?
And how wide is a 2-car driveway?

[jerryg79]

I want to say a 2 car driveway is like 23' wide at the garage, but i dont have any plans in front of me...

the city will have their own codes.

You really need plans for a 1 car garage?

Home depot rents those storage containers for $66/month.

[KrazyKarl02]

Off the top of my head, I think my 3 car is 28 foot. I think it is about 8 foot per car space, then plus your posts in the middle.

[jerryg79]

Off the top of my head, I think my 3 car is 28 foot. I think it is about 8 foot per car space, then plus your posts in the middle.

yeah karl is right, i was thinking of the width of the garage.

[uglyota]

Cool, and $66/mo is cheap!

[bburris]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/

[eight]

My 2 car driveway is narrow. About 18'. I know the opening for the garage doors if it were 1 door would be 17' 3". I park my trucks on the edges but then I step out onto the grass.

If you do build a 1 car, go with a 10' wide door. Makes getting trailers in and out much easier, especially if you ever get a boat. Boat trailers have a habit of being wider than legal and a 9' door is framed a couple inches smaller than 9'. My 8' wide doors suck but if they were tall enough I could fit a truck through them.

[eight]

Actually, a one car detached would be great. Make it about 20x25' with a 10' wide door on one side and a walk door on the other. My garage is 18' x 23'. Should be plenty of room for working once I clean it out. You'd be better off than I.

[Seth]

http://www.garagejournal.com

[jerryg79]

there's a website dedicated to garages somewhere, garage-opedia.com, garagegazette.com, garagediary.com...something like that:flipoff2:

[Seth]

yeah yeah, my bad. i didn't go to the third page.

[uglyota]

That's what I was looking for Ryan, good stuff

Seth (aka "Mr. Start Threads About Obscure Stuff That Has Nothing To Do With Wheeling Nor Do I Intend To Pursue This Decade"). Fawk off. :flipoff2:

The last 4 people I have talked to about this project have said to get the slab poured and buy the materials plus brats and beer and we'll build it ourselves. Is this retarded or doable? One of them has spent a couple of years framing houses.

Are full engineer-approved plans (that I could get building permits for) available for reasonable cost anywhere? Could I just pay a CE to make me some (again at reasonable cost)?

[jerryg79]

google is your friend.;)

http://justgarageplans.com/83/plan-detail/2413.php

its doable, but make sure you have a dedicated crew that will not fag out halfway though.

Also, do you have to go to a big city for permitting. I know that getting plans approved in Houston bigger ordeal than a smaller city like Spring.

[uglyota]

:D
I think I'm in the city and county of Denver, but no HOA, so permitting may or may not be a PITA.

[eight]

You doing a wood framed house style garage or a metal building. If you need engineered plans on the metal building buy a kit. Will be way cheaper. If engineered plans are not required I can tell you how to do it. Check on the permitting before you plan too much.

[jerryg79]

Have fun with this..

http://www.denvergov.org/residentialpermits/bApplyforaPermitb/GarageorShedDetached/tabid/425141/Default.aspx

It says what work you can do, and what you must pay someone to do. Interesting.

[uglyota]

looks pretty straightforward but the inspections process could be a PITA. Wonder if I could get the inspector to hang around all day and maybe swing a hammer if I offer a couple of beers and lunch?

[jerryg79]

looks pretty straightforward but the inspections process could be a PITA. Wonder if I could get the inspector to hang around all day and maybe swing a hammer if I offer a couple of beers and lunch?

straightforward....bureaucracy....someone hasnt dealt with the city before;)

[Seth]

Seth (aka "Mr. Start Threads About Obscure Stuff That Has Nothing To Do With Wheeling Nor Do I Intend To Pursue This Decade"). Fawk off. :flipoff2:

???

[uglyota]

I thought the repetition of brett's post was you suggesting that I take my homo-wner talk elsewhere. :flipoff2:

[Seth]

no no, I read to the bottom of page 2 and thought that was it, missing a few posts including brett's. That site is pretty wild.

homo-wner. nice.

[Graystroke]

eric, look into hiring a third party inspector if denver uses them. they are not pricks that couldn't get a job anywhere else and you only have to wait a day at the most to get an inspection. I can usually get the people we use out the same day if I call them early enough. It usually cost more but saves a lot of headache (and lots of time) and they will usually help you out and answer questions rather than just showing up and looking for a red tag item so they can collect more $ on a reinspection fee. I have had the our 3rd party company show up at my jobsite and he told me something wouldn't pass, said he would be back later in the day. He came back and asked me if I fixed it and handed me my green tag.

[BMFScout]

how about make the concrete pad off the back an enclosed porch? That way you could have more room and lock stuff up but wouldn't have to tear it out when you move?

[uglyota]

actually you can see in the aerial view that it was like that at some point recently, I guess that's the pile of lumber in the yard. That pad is going to be covered with a huge farkin wood patio. With things moving a little faster now, I think I am going to see if there's enough lumber there to build a small shed, and pour an even smaller, thinner (2"?) slab to put it on. Nail gun and compressor cost $60/day to rent, so expect a BDR-esque compressor thread shortly :D

[jerryg79]

wtf hippie im thinking of adding 128sf of 4" and its not even 2cy, dont be a joo and do 2" that's dumb.

[uglyota]

When I'm looking at something disposable at $100/yard it's major joo time. Hmmm maybe I need to build a shed with a floor and put it on blocks

[jerryg79]

When I'm looking at something disposable at $100/yard it's major joo time. Hmmm maybe I need to build a shed with a floor and put it on blocks

you realize 4" slab = box out with 2x4, fill with concrete, run 2x4 over top, done.

a 2" slab is going to crack from dropping a hammer on it or from soil movement.

[Doug Krebs]

When I'm looking at something disposable at $100/yard it's major joo time. Hmmm maybe I need to build a shed with a floor and put it on blocks

This sounds like a better idea... Make it so it sits on skids and then you can pull it around the yard!

[BMFScout]

If you're just using it for storage why not? My storage building that came with the house is a Morgan on blocks. I winched it across my yard to a place that I liked better then highlifted it level. Also if you decide you want a real garage that you can work on cars in later you can sell the building. No concrete work, no permits involved. It may be a little more expensive now but you could recoup that cost later by selling it. Might even find one used. A metal building won't be quite as attractive as I'm sure you are envisioning building with that air nailer, but it sure would be easier.

My dad however built a storage shed out of scrap he had laying around. Build a pretty hefty floor frame on blocks, plywood the top of the floor, basic framing/door, cover the outside with building material of choice...voila! If you didn't have a lot of building material laying around though, I would go prefab and spend the time you were going to spend on that building that kickass back porch or fence you're dreaming about. :)

[BMFScout]

http://denver.craigslist.org/for/700870615.html

I was going to find more buildings. That didn't happen, but I found a smoking deal on a project to put in the building!!

http://denver.craigslist.org/car/707516668.html

[uglyota]

I was thinking about something more like this:
http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/678385577.html
sounds old and bad ass. google doesn't help...stupid model rocket nerds

[BMFScout]

co sucks. you have to blow out your sprinklers!

[Seth]

What's the consensus on the little metal buildings? I am thinking of getting a 10x8 from Lowes for $250. Free floor frame included. I just want to put stuff in it, not so much work in it. I know I will need some kind of floor, and I guess something to get it off the ground?

[jerryg79]

What's the consensus on the little metal buildings? I am thinking of getting a 10x8 from Lowes for $250. Free floor frame included. I just want to put stuff in it, not so much work in it. I know I will need some kind of floor, and I guess something to get it off the ground?

karl had one, it fit stuff, i dont think the door ever worked right, but that might not have been a design flaw.

[uglyota]

co sucks. you have to blow out your sprinklers!

not if you don't have any! If you think I am going to be competing for lawn of the month, think again :D

[eight]

Kopecki used to have a nice little storage shed set up to do some work in. Steel framed, 4' wide door, fully insulated, with a workbench and electricity. Not sure where you could get such a thing. Must have taken 2-3 days to build.

[Seth]

you volunteering?

[eight]

I do not do anything illegal, immoral, volunteer, or buy candy from little kids.

At least one of those is mostly true.

[jerryg79]

I do not do anything illegal, immoral, volunteer, or buy candy from little kids.

At least one of those is mostly true.

really who can argue with logic like this????:gigem:

[BroncoJo]

What's the consensus on the little metal buildings? I am thinking of getting a 10x8 from Lowes for $250. Free floor frame included. I just want to put stuff in it, not so much work in it. I know I will need some kind of floor, and I guess something to get it off the ground?

In this case, you get what you pay for. If your trying to get storage for cheap and your not wanting to store big items look at the rubbermade (or similar) plastic storage sheds. They are kinda small but very easy to move around, my Grandpa recomends them:gigem:. If you don't like that go for the metal building, just make sure you don't ride a dirtbike on the roof.

[agjohn02]

Kopecki used to have a nice little storage shed set up to do some work in. Steel framed, 4' wide door, fully insulated, with a workbench and electricity. Not sure where you could get such a thing. Must have taken 2-3 days to build.

your only getting weirder when you start referring to yourself in third person.

[eight]

I think you left some oil in there. For that remark, consider it confiscated.

[agjohn02]

pretty sure anything you "leave", in the posession of a kopecki, of any sort of value is automatically considered confiscated.

saw it was moved the other day. did you sell the trailer?

[eight]

I sold the trailer about 1.5 years ago. Some little hot girl's dad bought it for her and her sister. I don't think she wanted to move out of callaway house.

Was the trailer moved? I moved the shed before I sold the house.

[KrazyKarl02]

karl had one, it fit stuff, i dont think the door ever worked right, but that might not have been a design flaw.

I did in fact have one, I lived in Beaumont for 3 years with no garage. I bought an 8X10 from lowes or home depot, I think it was called the Piedmont Edition or some crap.

The free floor frame is worthless.... I made a frame out of treated 4x4's and plywood. The floor cost $80, the building was $196, pre tax. Worked good, did not leak. It took me a weekend to construct.

Like Jerry mentioned the doors kind of suck, they have no wheels and just slide.

Other than that, they are in my opinion the cheapest storage in that price range, you can fit 4 to 5 motorcycles, a lawn mower, and an LT1 in there.

[robertf03]

The free floor frame is worthless.... I made a frame out of treated 4x4's and plywood. The floor cost $80, the building was $196, pre tax. Worked good, did not leak. It took me a weekend to construct.



Did you have to erect it?

[uglyota]

I just spent like ten minutes looking for this link. It belongs here:

this is pretty bad ass

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12234

[uglyota]

13'x20' garage big enough to do any work in? Garrett how big is yours?

[AggieTJ2007]

yeah, its a little tight but you can, pulling axle shafts can be a pain. I did plenty of work in my 10x20 storage unit.

invest in lots of shelving to store stuff vertically and stay organized

[rockfrawg]

13'x20' garage big enough to do any work in? Garrett how big is yours?

no, not if you plan on using the garage for anything else...ie, storing tools and all other household garage type stuff



this is pretty bad ass

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=12234

i just looked @ that....that is sick wicked badass, the lower level is bigger than my house

[JeepPhisherman]

13'x20' garage big enough to do any work in? Garrett how big is yours?

My current set up is about 19' x 12', it's got some nice cubby hole type deals though that are an extra ~120 sqft for storing tools and whatnot. It works out fine.

New place still only has a 1 car, a litle bit bigger but no nooks, so shelves from the ceiling are a must.

[davido]

There's a place here selling 18' wide x 20' deep two car metal garages for $3,100 installed.

I was looking at that garage that the guy built in the suburbs. I can't even imagine the **** storm my neighbors would start if they saw me dig a hole like that. Holy hell! Pretty sweet though.

[uglyota]

Have we covered shop electric?
This one has an FPE box and no garage, so while I get the electric updated I might as well make sure I have enough dedicated juice for a decent shop. Should I just put in an extra master breaker and give the garage (detached) it's own panel? How many amps total should I make sure I can send over there? Do I have to separate it into 220 and 110 at this point or is that done at the garage subpanel?

Here's where it's going, leaving that little slab to work on until ready to build, then it becomes a carport slab. The garage will be a 1++ taking up the rest of the back of the lot, with the roof basically covering the whole width of the lot, creating the carport. How long is a c/c longbed truck? Thinking it should be 8' longer than that (2' for shelves/storage up front and 3' for working/moving around) and as wide as possible while still leaving enough room to park under the carport and open the doors

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I would recomend running a subpanel with it's own main breaker (check the code, I bet it states that for an unattached building anyways). It should have two 110 legs running to it and two of those together will give you your 220.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

That guy seems really really paranoid about moisture in his system. He went through a lot of trouble for nothing. It's not like an air line is going to ever be perfectly level, so why go through the trouble of putting such angles in the system to allow for drain off? Also, if he would use a decent drier he wouldn't even need to drain the system other than his tank. If you were going to be painting, or even running air tools, the cleaner and dryer the air, the better off you will be. If I were building a shop, this is what I'd use: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DeVILBISS-DAD-500-DESICCANT-AIR-DRYER-FILTER-Spray-Gun_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43987QQihZ010QQitem Z200186474015QQtcZphoto

sure, it's a bit of an investment, but it's nice when you don't have to worry about contamination or moisture tearing up your tools or ruining a paint job.

Link is broke, here is one that should work.

http://www.powertoolsonline.net/devilbissdad500automotivedesiccantairdryersystem.a spx