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The Duke
here are some pics as of today before and after the new tires were put on
as was:
81 cj5, hei, 4.0 head, magnaflow exhaust, mc2100, yellow top optima, 8k lb winch on a reciever wired front and rear, tj flares, shackle reversal, 3.5" lift, 33" AT's on 15" rock crusher rims, cd, cb, pa, pro comp seats, hurculiner on inside of tub, tuffy boxes (console, glove and fender well), modified tube bumpers, 4:10 gears in both axles with a detroit in the rear, 4:1 in the d300
plans:
37" mtr's
flat skid plate
cv rear driveshaft
2" body lift to clear clocked t-case and tires
tbi from an 89 s10
oba
new front bumper
mount warn 9k on new front bumper
mount 5k warn in rear
2" wheel spacers in rear
narrowed waggy 44 front with ford rotors
full roll cage tied to frame
led tail lights
maybe add waggy springs to get a little wb later
i have almost all of the parts to do this so now it is time to get wrentching
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Looks nice. Are those pics with the d44 rear? 37"s look good on it.
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anyone still in town wana help me with the body lift tomorrow?
and yes those are with my nt axles on it d44 rear d30 front, i just finished ordering my wheel adapters/spacers for the rear so that it will stick out a little more and look better. it would have looked fine if i didnt' have tj flares
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body lift
had a 3" sitting around so i put it on to clear the clocked t-case and so the tires can flex a little
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In the pictures it looks like the rear axle needs to go back an inch or so. Look like that in real life?
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stock cj5 axle w/ flares at an angle will look that way
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i also cut the body when i installed the flares so that the tires would stuff up in them well and i could get away with less lift earlear in the buildup. when they stuff they fill the whole wheel well. the only downfall is that it looks like the axle is in the wrong place at normal stance
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here is the new tranny mount that i just made so that i can have a flat skid plate
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You crackum t-case adapter.
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first of all the mount bolts to the tranny and second i don't see why there won't be enough play to handle the torque. so what problem do you see
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Putting the bushings on the ends of the crossmember like that does not allow as much deflection as a normal tranny mount. I just remembered my jeep doesnt have a t-case adapter, so I assume yours doesnt either, so it makes sense that it would bolt dirrectly to the tranny. I still think you run the risk of cracking whatever its mounted too but only time will tell.
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that all depends on the stifness of that mount versus the stiffness of the engine mounts.
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i was going to make raised motor mounts this afternoon with a similar bushing. am i going to have problems. they are both polyurethane sp? and from spring eye applications
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Well I suppose if you got polly bushing motor mounts too you will probably be fine cause the motor mounts will be stiff as fawk and not allow much if any deflection, ask me how I know.
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Yea you may be ok with the stiff motor mounts. I tried stiffening up my transmission mount way back in the day and broke a chunk out of the transmission. Then welded it back together and built a new mount that bolted to the case, mounted it softer, and ran it another 3 years or so.