Need Help

I changed the oil for the 1st time today...125 miles. Its been really nice having it running, but its been kinda sluggish from the low end. I had a couple of options that it could be, timing, intake leak, not enough exhaust backpressure b.c. of the leaks. Mr. Krabs fixed up the exhaust leak for the most part a few days ago and it still did it so that problem was ruled out. I was checking the timing last nite but was interrupted by an electrical fire (:rolleyes: ) at the fuse holder for my electric fans. I spent a couple hours rewiring that and still havent gotten it right b.c. i keep burning up solenoids. While i was changing the oil tonite though i decided to mess w/ the timing and found that the hesitation got better by retarding the timing. i got it set about right :rolleyes: and its run badass all nite. i'll be putting a timing light on it again tomorrow to double check my earballed timing job. last problem is to figure out what i can do about the fans. I need a continuous duty 12V switchable solenoid that can maintain a 30amp load. Any suggestions? thx.

Electric fans are THE DEVIL.

use a relay. go to a junkyard and look under the hood of a modern EFI car or truck. there will be a relay box, grab one that says 30 amp on it and maybe take the relay box too.

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Originally posted by eight
One of the starer solenoids like ford uses on the passenger side fender of a diesel should work. I'm not sure if the gas trucks use the same thing.

Did you do anything to the computer to adjust for the new cam? You usually need a custom chip, fuel pressure regulator, or bigger injectors.

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A diesel glow plug solenoid is what overheated most recently. I dont want to just use a relay b.c. for some reason, if i use a relay i'll burn up switches. I did it once this summer and was told that i need to use a solenoid to keep it from happening.

No, i didnt do anything special to the computer. The cam I got is made to work with the computer. Although, I do have a JET chip.

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Originally posted by eight
Yea, you should be fine with the cam stuff. But just to check, do you know how to check if it is running rich or lean by using a jumper in the OBDII plug? I forgot how. That Haynes manual should tell you.

I'm not sure if the starter solenoid is any bigger than a glow plug solenoid. The starter solenoid on the fender of a diesel is just there to power the starter solenoid on the starter. My jeep has the actual starter solenoid on the fender. If it's made to handle 150 amps for a while it should handle the 30 amps continuosly. But I don't see why you are having problems with only 30 amps.

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My truck is a `95, OBD I. I dont understand either why only 30 amps is causing this much trouble.

I had to split each fan up onto its own 20-30 amp relay and inline fuse because I kept melting fuse housings and blowing relays. By kept, I mean like 5-6 times it really screwed me over...

i think i got it figured out...Borg Warner p/n S55 is a continuous duty switchable solenoid rated up to 80 amps. it looks just like a generic ford/warn solenoid. wire power in from the battery, out to the fans, and a wire to the switch to activate it. we'll see if this one really holds up. its the 4th different p/n solenoid i've put on it. anyway...truck still runs like a champ, now i'm lookin' into new rear shackles to hopefully eliminate axle wrap and keep from breaking u-joints. plans, plans, plans...