Project Mongo

I think I heard that on the 3 link with panhard that its better to have the top link on the passenger side, but it will need to be on the driverside in my case. I did see the equation for figuring it at one point, but I have to go find it back. Does anyone think it will really make that much of a difference in a vehicle as underpowered as mine? I normally prefer to crawl things then use the skinny pedal. I just don't want the thing doing the torque roll I've seen some vehicles have when they give it gas on an obstacle and nearly end up on thier side.

would this hiem be strong enough for the panhard, or should I go with something more expensive http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rsview=sku&Ns=

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Originally Posted by uglyota

yes I think offset wishbones have to be burly to work. There's an E-350 or something with a gas tank that fits under a runner like stock with like 1" below the framerails

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...t=van+gas+tank

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yeah, I followed this thread as well. A blazer tank may also work, and I can get those for 25 bucks new. But at this point I have so much planned I doubt I will get to everything, or be able to afford it. So if I can get away with leaving the gas tank there for now, and not detrimentally affect my performance, I would like to.

you should jus tpay me to build you a custom aluminum tank

so, any one have any info on how to do the panhard bar? I know when you do it on the front, you should try to match it to the draglink, but are there any design parameters for the rear? Keep it parrallel to the ground? Try to make it as long as possible? Does it matter which side it mounts on?

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Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN

I think I heard that on the 3 link with panhard that its better to have the top link on the passenger side, but it will need to be on the driverside in my case. I did see the equation for figuring it at one point, but I have to go find it back. Does anyone think it will really make that much of a difference in a vehicle as underpowered as mine? I normally prefer to crawl things then use the skinny pedal. I just don't want the thing doing the torque roll I've seen some vehicles have when they give it gas on an obstacle and nearly end up on thier side.

would this hiem be strong enough for the panhard, or should I go with something more expensive http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rsview=sku&Ns=

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I have read the offset is not as important on a rear sus. because the pinion is usually centered making the offset distance very small. The panhard heim really doesn't have to be that big all it is doing is centering the rearend, look how chintzy factory panhard rods are and they hold up. fwiw I used small rubicon express joints, the same one they include for all their kits with panhard bars

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Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN

so, any one have any info on how to do the panhard bar? I know when you do it on the front, you should try to match it to the draglink, but are there any design parameters for the rear? Keep it parrallel to the ground? Try to make it as long as possible?

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I would not match the front. make it as long as posible(mine is 2" from the tire on both sides like 45"+ ) to smooth the arc it travels to reduce rearsteer and make it level while the suspesion is at middle of it's travel if possible . if you do this usually the frame end will be lower putting the panhard in tension during jounce which will be more forgiving on the bar and mount design. having the bar go from driver frame to pass. axle will put the panhard in tension when torque is applied.

do you have any pics of yours?

I wrote this up yesterday but the power died before I hit the button.

OK lets me think about it. The antisquat is applied on the side that the upper is on. I get the driver side front lifting so the passenger side rear must be squatting. So, you want to put the upper on the passenger side. If you put it on the wrong side it will just make the torque roll worse.

You can triangulate the lowers on a 3 link to cut down on rear steer. I once modeled it to find how much would eliminate all the rear steer. Just don't make a wishbone out of it. Maybe go a foot narrower at the frame end than the axle end. Or really you would just mount the frame end under the frame and the axle ends as wide as possible.

I used a small amount of triangulation on my front but that was more because I had to mount the axle ends wide enough to work with the diff, and then had to angle them in to the frame end so they wouldn't rub the tire when turning. My frame end is mounted slightly in of the center of the frame.

I allready told you what suspension I'd go with on the rear of that thing. Solves all your upper link/gas tank problems and provides a gas tank skid. The worst drawback I see to it is all the **** talking you would get. Just make it as long as possible.

I forgot which one you suggested, it wasn't a 1 link was it? If so, no way, those things are just to ghetto

BTW, the PBB was actually good for something today. I decided I didn't feel like going to class today, and hit the yards today. Didn't find much, but I got this big remote power steering reservior from a isuzu rodeo for free. Looks like it will be perfect for when I put on hydro assist. I'll post up pics of later

Yep, 1 link. You don't have to do it all ghetto like. Use a jimmy joint instead of a trailer ball and hitch.

nah, I think I'll stick with multiple links. If it was trail only, maybe, but I just don't like the idea for a street driven truck

search newb!!

http://tamor.org/forums/showthread.p...hlight=teasers

page 5, I think you and St. John have the same vision. Street driven badass.

speaking of St. John how is that thing coming?

nope, my vision is street driven clusterfawk :flipoff2:

As for those pics, you know I scanned through that thread kinda quickly one time, but only remembered seeing the photo chopped "spy pics"