hood opens normal..its a buick roadmaster... i doubt that car would be sitting out front under a pecan tree.
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hood opens normal..its a buick roadmaster... i doubt that car would be sitting out front under a pecan tree.
I understand that, but he is building an off-road rig, and not a roadster so that might make a difference. :flipoff2:
sick, as always.
Is the bellcrank brake linkage a common thing in the hotrod world? That '29 has it too
What's the story with the opposing nylock nuts? Is that permanent?
the bolt shank is the correct length the one nut on bottom is bigger(aka washer stack) so I dont need tools to take it on and off because all I have is nylock nuts. so no it is not permanent
90 degree brake setups are pretty common, lots of vans had them factory. there are lots of aftermarket bellcrank setups but none with as much ratio as I wanted
With all that additional leverage on the steering, are you going to be able to steer if your engine dies? Also, what do you plan on doing about the steering rate...is the long arm going to make your steering pretty sensitive?
Looking very cool. I can't wait to see this thing on the trail.
the really short pitman should help(i can turn it as it sits right now) but I do suspect that if the short link between the pitman and idler arm starts to wear it will have a noticable wander quickly. I have it set up to use the saginaw 4.25 turn box lock to lock. So I would think the steering rate would be relatively close, even though I did remove the knuckle steering stops for a little more angle.
this company stole our idea and is selling the kodiak distributor and vortec crank sensor timing cover as a package to run the gen3 pcm
they do have this, interesting. Is there room on a small block between the water pump and timing cover to run lt1 junk?
http://www.eficonnection.com/coilper...r_Cylinder.jpg
I don't think that will work on a standard sbc unless you go to a electric water pump there is very little room on as a sbc as they use the timing cover for cam thrust and its almost against the back of the water pump
I think the megasquirt is lookin better and better cause even if I get the ls1 ecu working I would still need hp tuner to get it going
When did they start doing this?Quote:
Originally Posted by tigweld
Ever SBC I've ever torn down isn't this way. The timing chain and distributor gear are the only things that hold a cam on a flat tappet SBC. On a factory roller SBC, there is a cam retention plate that goes on before the timing chain. Now when converting to a roller cam, you would use a cam button that would ride on the cover, is that what you're thinking of?
yup I forgot about the retaining plate either way there is still no room
The only way to do it I think would be to space the water pump off the cover with some of those water pump spacers, but then good luck to you sir on figuring out your belt alignment.
Don't they cut flat lifter cams at a slight angle to make the lifters spin and thrust the cam to the back of the engine?
I got mine from diyautotune. If you get the preassembled MS2 with the 3.57 board its machine soldered, should take out any reliability problems that homebrew junk could cause.
yeah, I think they do Flem. I know the front edge of the block is machined so that the timing gear rides on the block.
Was over at Ryan's this weekend. A lot of welding work has been done. He's got all the chassis structure welded back together and has been finishing up the rockers and building a spare tire rack/rear bumper setup. He's also been working on hanging the rear bedsides and mocking up the front end. The hood fits without any cutting of the structure to clear the coilovers.
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...ne/rocker1.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...ne/rocker2.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...ne/rocker3.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...ne/rocker4.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...ne/bedside.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...cbone/hood.jpg