who in town, or somewhat local, does sand blasting. need to get my frame cleaned up.
cheapest i found was in austin for $100.
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who in town, or somewhat local, does sand blasting. need to get my frame cleaned up.
cheapest i found was in austin for $100.
that is a good price, go there
that is cheap
sharpe used some place on hwy 6 for his hummer wheels. he is in colorado though untill I don't know when. So maybe ask clarke he might know.
both sharpe and cook went to texas truck riggins on south college just past villa maria. They have pretty good prices and work fast. If i dont blast my wheels and frame at work i will defently taking them there.
vilas will blast wheels
what about a entire body?
anyone ever tried doing it themselves with a HF gun or something of higher quality?
you're not gonna want to blast a lot of sheetmetal and expect it to look good. The heat makes the metal wavy. Get it beadblasted, or if there's a lot of rust get it acid dipped. We took my Dad's cab to some shop in Spring to get beadblasted, and the doors dipped at a place in Humble or Porter, I believe. Cheap blaster and small compressor will take you forever doing a whole truck on your own. I have a craftsman hopper-style blaster and it works well for small stuff. The key is to buy construction sand, not sandbox sand, and keep it really dry and keep a dryer on your air line.
Coop I was at home depot the other day and saw that they have engineer's scale tape measures. Instead of inches they have tenths and hundreds of feet. That should be as easy to use as a metric tape like we were talking about the other day
i might go check that out, i still want one
If I currently have 3.73s and am switching to 4.56s, I don't have to buy new carriers (for numerically higher gears) if I buy the correct lockers (OX for 3.92 and higher) right?
needs to be a full case locker, like detroit, arb, or ox. A drop in like lockright or exlock uses the existing carrier.
Isn't the carrier break for 30/35 3.73 anyways? So you don't need new carriers even if you wanted to keep them open.
Will this bolt on to my standard 44 knuckles to replace the 5x5.5 outers? I woud think so.
"I have a balljoint 8 lug 44 2wd front axle that I'm gonna get rid of.
It's a dana 44 without a diff.
It's the front axle out of a Jeep CJ10-A"
i think you will be the only person to have 8 lug outers on a Dana 30.
cool
to answer your question. i believe the cj10 has a "dummy" front axle, so i would imagine the hubs would swap over. but dont know about the brakes.
he is also cool with delivering stuff to houston, so you might be able to get someone down here to pick them up for you.
brakes wouldn't be needed (calipers, rotors). I have calipers and I would buy new 8x6.5 rotors, I think the only things I need are hubs and spindles.
i have waggy calipers and rotors now. as long as the rotors are the same diameter the calipers should work because the caliper brackets will not change
asfar as ttb stuff working you will need a knuckle with 6 bolts for the spindle, as earlier ford crap(i dunno about jeep) was 5 bolt spindles. i also think that he 8 lug ttb had a different length stub shaft. Also check which chevy 44 it is a dummy of so you dont get parts for one that had the huge dana 60 sized hubs.
what would be a decent axle that is roughly 62-63wms and 6x5.5. priced a 9" and its out of my realm. i have a AMC20(j-truck/waggy) and have heard mixed reviews about it. it seems to be alot better than the cj one though?
suggestions?
they are the same innerds but alot stronger housing. Same diamter tube (2.5") which is small but double the thickness tubes. Weld the tubes to the pumpkin and you should be good to go (so it you don't spin the tubes). I have a aftermarket diff cover, 3.73 gears, and an arb for an amc for sale! Buy it! The amc 20 has a larger ring and pinion that a d-44 and is 29 spline. The only weak link is the housing. But the waggy one is much stronger. Two piece axles suck though. I think the waggys came with those as well as the cjs. Change those out to aftermarket one piece ones.
i need 4.56's. which seem to be somewhat cheap. was thinking spool. still researching though.
fsjs has one piece shafts*
ditto
need a little advice.
I have a chance to buy a yj and flip and sell it fast with profit.
Here are the specs.
1987 YJ
Bad Soft Top
Good leather interior
No lift, stock wheels/tires
Stored in barn for last 3 years, will run with new battery
Leak in radiator
AMC 2.5L I4 about 70K miles
BA 10/5 5 speed manual transmission
Dana 30 front
Dana 35 non c-clip rear
NP-207 x-case
Fair Paint, straight body no damage
$600
Fix the leak, throw a battery in it, cheap used tires, clean the crap out of it and make the paint shine. Put it on the market for $2000. What do you guys think? Would you do it?
would and have done it, but i would have tried to jew them down more.
Just tell me where it is!
sell this to hot pocket
appearently the amc has the same carrier from 3.08 on up? i thought the break was like a normal axle around 3.73/3.92? i might just buy the gears and weld it up if its true.
yes the break is 3.31. . . http://jeeptech.com/axle/amc20.html
I would most definitely buy it, but I wouldn't have told anyone on here what you got it for. Rookie mistake. :)
Doesn't make any difference to me, what they should be paying attention to is how much I'm selling it for. After looking around on-line at other yjs with similar appearance/condition/parts. I think I'll be listing it for $3,000 with hopes of getting that in Dallas and probably $2500 elsewhere.
is there a difference in chevy 3/4ton d44 8 lug outers? or are they all the same?
i would be a nice guy and sell it to hot pocket for what you got it for and maybe some extra