JB Weld....
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JB Weld....
I need to build traction bars but can't decide which style to go with. 3 options I'm thinking about are:
1. Ladder bar with a shackle on the frame mount side
2. Twist and extend style with bushing mounts on both ends and sleeved DOM in the middle that can twist and pull out a little to reduce binding
3. 2 link traction bars under the leaf springs
Anybody have traction bars that work well?
I have #1 and it works great.
http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthre...l=1#post295209
better leaf springs
Better leafs aren't in the budget right now.
I think there is a old-school set of ladder bars for a 79 bronco in my old shop...
Number 1, don't mind **** it, it's a simple design that works.
It's a ruffstuff bracket.
http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthre...l=1#post204228
I can measure the bracket for you when I get home to confirm but I bet that it's 8-inches.
No, that's good. Thanks
Things I've gotten done in the last few months:
Finally got a power steering pump that doesn't leak
1350 rear driveshaft that's the right length
Rear traction bar
Mounted roof light bar
Cleaned up some electrical stuff
Redid the gauge cluster with aftermarket gauges in the stock housing
Things to do soonish:
Cup holders, front seats, reverse lighting, go wheeling
Bring it to k2 in May.
Kickass!
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...725_173201.jpg
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...725_173153.jpg
Put some 37s on it last weekend and then tore the front end apart for a 92-96 front clip.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...725_185757.jpg
Hopefully I'll have it finished in time to do some wheeling next month.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...730_190139.jpg
I heard someone wanted painted headlights. Got some for my front end conversion.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...830_005015.jpg
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...830_005045.jpg
Got some solid work put in on the bronco this weekend. Finished the front end swap and got some mastercraft seats in on the stock sliders.
Flem, are you implying that the 351 in this bronco came from Ford's Mexico plant? That would be good, those motors have stronger connecting rods.
Flem must be implying that it's ready to take over Baja :gigem:
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...830_130407.jpg
Daytime shot.
I like this a lot better than the old. I also brought it to my apt in austin so I have a lot more time to work out the bugs and get it roadwork so I can drive it to the trails and then back home if I want to.
any plans on beefing up the ttb or straight axle swap?
Ttb is staying, but I still haven't decided exactly what I want to do so for now I'm just going to go through it with new pivot bushings, ball joints and repack the wheel bearings in an attempt to get as much slop out of the front end as possible.
You got plans for a bumper? That would make it look way better. Also how about door panels?
Apartment?? I'm having flashbacks to doing a motor swap in Mario's busted-ass Toyota in The Fort parking lot (formerly Sevilla, now The Lexington).
Probably just going to put a stock bumper on it for now, and the door panel is back on, I had it off to solder on a new window switch pigtail. Carpet will go back in too after I clean the alto out of it.
I have a garage attached to my apartment with parking in front of the garage so it isn't as bad as it sounds.
That was in response to sharpe. The carpet is disgusting.
I got an extra set of TTB beams from BDR last year, and I'm finally getting around to experimenting with cut and turned beams. I built a jig to hold the beam at stock geometry as well as geometry for four inches of lift, so it shouldn't be too hard to get it right. Right now I've gone as far as cutting the lower ball joint out of the beam. As soon as I get the drivers side done, I'll bolt in the spare 3rd I have and see if the shaft, or u joint binds anywhere. If all is well, I'll move on to uniballs for the pivot points and radius arms.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...903_130958.jpg
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...904_160306.jpg
Does your jig have more than one bolt holding it there? I know nothing of this cut and turn, but seems you would need another locator. Also why are you destroying the best suspension system ever made?
Yeah, that's not a finished picture of the jig, but there's a bolt on the end of the beam that you can turn to raise and lower the beam and holds it in place.
There's pros and cons to a cut and turn which can be argued to death, but in my mind cut and turn is better than drop brackets. I also have an extra set of beams so I don't have to take anything on my bronco apart to try this to see if I can make it work.
Looks good!
If this works you will have to make me a set!
That means you'd have to buy another rig...
So I replaced something like 26 feet of vacuum lines in the engine bay today. It's amazing how much better it runs without all of the vacuum leaks it had.
As soon as my rock auto order comes in it gets ball joints, and all bushings in the front then an alignment and some prayers that it passes smog in austin.
I finished up ball joints, radius arm bushings and pivot bushings this morning. I think next is radius arms, the stock style bushings don't let the arms flex at all, and they are in the way of the 37s.
The 37s are a whole new issue, they hit everywhere. I think with thin wheel spacers in the rear and different radius arms up front though I'll be pretty good, at least wheelable.
I ran 37's and 38's on a 6 inch lift. They cleared the radius arms. Bumper had to be removed and there was one spot on the inner fender I had to cut.
It's probably these wheels because even the old 315/whatever bfgs rubbed the radius arms but the toyos are real bad.