Takin **** apart don't cost nuthin.
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Takin **** apart don't cost nuthin.
I dont want to leave it just taking up space inside Evans shop while I wait to buy parts
Take it apart outside?
Took it apart tonight. The Detroit is fine, the shaft broke off inside of it, right at the end of the splines. I wasn't thinking today, and I didn't get the seal or race, so I am going to have to wait to get them. I also didnt have the right socket for the spindle nut, so I am going to wait for Chet to get his back tomorrow afternoon, so I can get the new u joint put in the front
My phone is being really gay and isn't letting me upload any pics.
How did you test the detroit?
just assuming, since there werent any pieces of metal anywhere, and it looked fine inside of it. the shaft was broken after the splines, I dont think anything could be messed up, but am not sure. How would i go about checking it?
burnout
Rear is back together, and the detroit passed the burnout test :gigem:
No one in this town has the correct spindle nut socket, so I am going to have to order one. Will probably have to wait to do the u joint until after I get back from next week. I am pretty pumped that the ears are still good. I only spit one cap, and there is no distortion anywhere.
All around I got extremely lucky with this carnage
until I tried to drive it in 4x4Quote:
Originally Posted by sam_hodnett
how do you get lucky with carnage?Quote:
Originally Posted by sam_hodnett
Isnt breaking things unlucky?
Drunken asshole. it was unlocked anywayQuote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
1. Well, i dont have to replace front shafts, just u joints. so that is pretty awesomeQuote:
Originally Posted by Hellbent
2. I just had to buy bearings and a seal for the rear, as Fred and Jimmy gave me a shaft. pretty lucky
3. And my detroit isn't broken, so I dont have to worry about that. Which is lucky.
maybe fortunate is a better word. if you were lucky, you would have made it up that hill :)
Damn it sam! Don't give up on wimmens yet!Quote:
Originally Posted by sam_hodnett
I don't know why that socket is impossible to find. Its the same one used on a CJ, Toyota, Land Rover, and Scout. I had to mail order mine too and keep a spare in the glove box because its impossible to find in stock even in DFW.
We've got them in stock for $9.95, I try to keep 5 or 6 on the shelf.
Maybe everybody else just uses the other method.
Finally got the new Moog u-joint in. The old joint just spit one cap, so none of the ears were fubared. I really need to address the brake issue.
Brake issue? Is it the leaking rear line, or did something **** with the "field repair" I did on the front brakes in Alto?
Pretty sure it is the rear line. Ill go over it all when I bring it back to Paris, before TCC.
Well, if the rear line is still leaking, it is probably the problem. Swing through Dallas with it and I'll help you knock it out.
I'm probably going to take you up on that offer, thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
What do yall think about these two?
http://www.4ws.com/d44-scout-73-80-30-spline-ch.html
http://www.4ws.com/yukon-front-4340-...0-splines.html
I ran alloys in the dana 30 and yukons in the 44. I don't see a difference. What ujoints do they come with? At a minimum run spicers but you might want to consider superjoints or the equivalent.
http://www.rcvperformance.com/produc...=CVJ44OS-IHSCT
With how often you break front shafts, you either need one tons, super beat off awesome shafts or don't throw so much puss at it on the trails, the scout can't handle it.
I would second saving your pennies for RCV shafts or at least make sure that the shafts/ujoints that you use have a warranty. It would suck to blow a brand new high dollar shaft on your first trip out.
You guys really think it is a wise decision to spend that moneyon D44 RCV shafts? Really? You also really think Sam Hodnett is going to spend that money on shafts? You guys are dumb
Check pirate daily and find something used or buy the cheaper "chromos". Buy proper tires. Wheel it and learn how not to break **** and have a good time. Jimmy did it for quite awhile
Seriously? D44 RCVs?!?!?
wise? Is a stock 60 a wise decision? $1500 for shafts with a no questions asked lifetime warranty or $700 for shafts that run stock u-joints or $200 a piece superjoints?
Yes, a stock 60 would be 10 times wiser decision. But that would require work that Sam doesn't do
Chromos and wheel better. Boom. Done
I think those tires have an awful lot to do with it. Aren't they 15" wide? Switch to 12.5" and the shafts won't snap as easily.
How wide are the wheels? Again, switch to a 8" wheel.
There are other considerations besides shaft strength. Jimmy popped a balljoint out on Baby Huey's crack at the OG K-rocks and I'm pretty confident it wouldn't have happened with a 60. There wasn't any apparent damage to the inner C or knuckle that I remember either.
a 60 swap would be wiser and probably 2x as much if not more.
Holy **** the 60 rcv's are expensive.
It costs to play with the big boys. That being said, one of the best "bang for your buck" investments I believe I have made in the beast.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
The "smart thing to do" would be to either straight upgrade to a 60 or spend good coin on good shafts for the belle. That being said. If you get some decent shafts and u-joints and remember to take it easy until you learn your rig, you should be good. Just go ahead and get the correct spindle socket on order. :D
And don't keep your foot in the skinny pedal when the front is bouncing 2 feet off the ground.
I've got RCV in mine and it's held up to plenty of full steering lock throttle dumps.
Don't change your driving style, it's fun to watch. Chromo's with some tom woods gold seal u joints should be plenty.
You guys are all poo$$y's, f' a 60! Go full retard, Rockwells are a 15 times wiser choice. I made this graph that clearly shows the difference, and it's in 3D, so it has to be right.
Seriously? D60 - $750-1000; proper gears/locker - $750. Sell D44 - $250. You need wheel/tires either way.Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
Again, You want to spend $1500 on shafts for a Dana 44? $1500?!
Would you also advocate me spending $4000 on a SC for my little 4.0, instead of say an LS swap? Ha!
I have ALOT of miles on a heavier rig on stock 60 shafts.
Sam, buy chromos for your 44 or buy 60.
steering, brakes, wheels, suspension, rear axle
all of that has to be changed to get a 60 under there, and its either expensive or will get rigged and become unreliable.
you'd end up with a totally different rig
buy the shafts, it will handle just like it did before but breaks less.