Yeah, what the hell do you know about Chevy diesels?
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Yeah, what the hell do you know about Chevy diesels?
i know they are just a converted chevy gas motor....right david? :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
yeah but he's not gonna dump all that time and money into that old motor...Quote:
Originally Posted by AgDieseler
:D
I totaly missed this the first time but...Quote:
Originally Posted by BMFScout
0wn3d :flipoff2:
I guess once the driveway is clear of other (red) crap I'll take the mota out of pigpen and tear into it to see whats wrong. If its a (few) bad piston(s) and/or rod(s) then I'll just snag whatever I need from a donor block and throw it back together.
Oliver, any chance it might just be the injectors? I was readin on CK5 and several people were saying their trucks made quite a bit of white smoke (unburned fuel) and were hard to start then they replaced the injectors and it cleared up. I have a spare set of injectors so if you think its a good idea I'll try it.
In other news, Tommy came through and found this little gem for me. Its a good thing I dont have any money right now...
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/I...D:100000223600
I saw a skoolie with that hood ornament. Perfect for your rig.
Well I found a parts truck with a whole new motor for $300. Its in Vidor and I think I'm gonna go get it either sometime next week or next weekend.
Well I decided to pass on the parts truck because I dont have time to deal with it and Ed's brother is supposed to be bringin me a CUCV take out motor soon. Hopefully its in decent shape, I asked the guy for the best one he has so we'll see. I have also located a set of exhaust manifolds off a 6.5 T/D for a decent price so I think I am going to get them and if the motor turns out to be in good shape, then maybe start looking for a turbo.
Oliver, what kinda turbo do I want for this setup (stock J-code 6.2 with 6.5 manifolds)? Honestly I've been happy enough with the low end performance of a n/a 6.2 so a turbo that is more top-end oriented would be cool.
While I have the motor out, I am also going to boatside it, and tube and narrow the front end. If the plans in my head come to be then the front will look sick and work great when its all said and done. I'm also planning on re-working my engine crossmember because the current one hangs down too low. I'll use a few pieces from the old one but the new version will have much more clearance.
Hopefully I can do all this and be able to make a trip or two before Clayton, but we'll just have to see what I have time to do and what I can afford.
Well Kevin and Ryan seem to think kludging pieces from two old motors together isnt a very good idea so I'm thinking about a full rebuild now. The only place I've been able to find a full kit is on ebay and its $635 shipped. The auction says the components are Mahle which is good enough for me.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/6-2L-...QQcmdZViewItem
Does anyone (Oliver) know of any other places that might have full rebuild kits for a 6.2? I'm am also going to have the injection pump and injectors rebuilt so that will be another $400. This is getting expensive fast. Motors suck.
GM8 turbos off 97 - 2000 6.5TDs work well and are somewhat easy to find. My MHI TE06H is hard to find, but also work well. If you're going to put more than 65 cu mm of fuel in there (like a DB2 4911) then think about a used Holset HX35 for lots of low end boost. Holsets go for cheap on eBay.Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
Northern Auto Parts has a 6.2 / 6.5 full kit with good quality parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
Thanks Oliver, looks like they have exactly what I want which is just a ring, bearing and gasket kit. I was hoping to avoid replacing the pistons so I wouldnt have to get the assembly ballanced and save some money so that kit will work out perfectly. Here's the kit, its $290
http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...ctModelId=1847
Should I do anything else (such as honing) to the block before I reassemble it? Also, it looks like I can upgrade to fel-pro gaskets for another $36, is it worth it? I'll get a new oil pump while I have it apart too, but I'll just get that from Napa.
My plan right now is to just build a bottom end, and stick the best two heads I have on there with the factory original bolts. Later on, when I can afford it, I'll rebuild a set of heads with new valves, seals, etc and get the ARP stud kit. Then turbo... Sound like a decent plan?
PS I am also replacing the torque converter while I have everything out.
Yes you have to hone. Grayson will probably tell something gay involving dingle-berries.
Hmmmm that is a good deal but the injection pump is the electronic version. What exactly is involved with swapping the pump out to a purely mechanical one oliver? Is that the only thing that needs to be done?
Do you really need the mechanical pump? I think the electrical one is pretty much stand alone.
The DS4 pumps are throttle by wire, and that requires computers, sensors, and other electronic things violative of the Pigpen charter.Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
I don't recall 100%, but I think you can just swap the DS4 for a DB2 mechanical pump. There will be a crank position sensor that would then be useless except to plug a hole.
Always hone. Get the oil pump from GM, and get one for a 99 6.5TD - high volume. I rebuild one side of my first 6.2L and reused the head bolts, which is a big no-no, but it ran great afterward. Reuse originals for pre-head rebuilt, and regular Fel Pro TTY for post head rebuild. Unless you're going to 300 hp and 550+ lb-ft, don't spend the coin on the ARP head studs. Fel Pro head gaskets are worth the extra money.
i think oliver just lurks on here waiting for diesel questions
Excelent info, thanks. The DB2 pumps are fairly expensive compared to a 6.2 pump right? Thanks for postin that Jerry but I think I'm just gonna rebuild a 6.2 since I have so many parts and am tired of constantly fixing an old ****ty motor. I am planning on getting my injectors and pump rebuilt by Kennedy diesel, they come prety well recomended on CK5.
Aren't high volume oil pumps intended to be used with "racing bearings" that have more clearance than normal ones and thus require more oil to be pumped through them? Do you have a part number for that pump you mention?
When ya get ready, give me a ring and I'll help.
I don't know if you realize this, but after it's all said and done and you've spent all that money on it... It's still a GM 6.2L diesel.
Just making sure you realize that... :flipoff2:
A 6.2 pump is a DB2...the electronic DS4 ones are the expensive type. High volume pump is just a bonus from later year 6.5s.
Now, if you'll excuse me, I have to get back to lurking.
So you can put the 6.2 pump on the 6.5? Is that the same one the 93s used?
I think yes, and yes. A 93 used a mechanical DB2 pump, just like all the 6.2s from previous years, but this one flowed a lot more fuel.
So, how much hp can the 6.2 pump support?
6, maybe 7
oops, forgot :flipoff3:
the reason I say this, I saw an uparmored hummer not be able to back up over a 4-5" curb today. They had to pull up and get a few foot running start at it....
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
thats why military hummers in the field are about to be extinct...id tell you what i know but i dont think the man would care for that much. we have two replacements...one for speed and one for grunt...the ones for speed will be removing afganistanian resistance some time soon :gigem: think bad ass rockcrawler/dune buggy...
EDIT: i can say this, oliver will be happy to know that the speed somes from a supercharged duramax or a regular turbo charged durmax...though the turbo is bigger...
The end of the hummer has been along time coming, it was not designed for the duties it is taking on now and they have hell with them. The stryker is slowly creeping in here, they are great vehicles from what the guys tell me. The cougars and buffalos are also well respected vehicles here, they take a lickin and keep the passangers relatively safe.
lets take this to your iraqi pictures thread...
I'm gonna go ahead and buy external tranny and engine oil coolers cause the built in ones in the factory radiator are a pain in the ass. I want ones that have mounting feet on them cause I dont really like the little plastic strips you poke throught the radiator and cooler, I know plenty of people use them and dont have any problems but they seem kinda janky to me. The mounting feet issue keeps my options prety limited as far as size goes, so I'm not too worried about that.
The only decision left is whether to go with stacked plate type coolers or tube and fin type. I like the stacked plate better because of durability but I have heard that they can have a problem with air bubbles getting trapped in them, which is bad juju for the tranny and engine. Here are a few that I like and are decent price-wise;
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I like this one cause it comes with baller A/N stuff that would look way out of place on pigpen but its prety damn expensive.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=10535
Just FYI, if you and I should ever be in a face-to-face conversation and you use the term baller, I will punch you in the throat.
Check out the oil coolers in older volvos. They are stacked plate design and supposedly can be found in junkyards somewhat easily. I saw it on Pirate not far back
here .
Next time I'm at the junkyard I'm gonna keep an eye out for one.
What kind of fittings do they have on them? I have a stacked plate external oil cooler off a chevy truck but it has some stupid metric o-ring fittings that you cannot get anywhere so its prety much useless to me.
ya can get those at john deere, thats what we use on bulldozers
I'm not sure, I think they are oddball like british thread from what I saw in the link. They said you're supposed to cut the hoses and save the fittings, then get a hose maker to crimp them onto new hoses to make adapter hoses.Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
Yah I could do that with the chevy stuff but that kind of PITA is what I'm trying to avoid.
Well I got the rebuild kit and some other misc. stuff ordered tonight. Oliver, if you can get me a part # for that oil pump and a good place to get a new torque converter, I will touch your peepee or something equaly heinous. I looked on a couple of sites that I found over on CK5 for the converter but they were on the expensive side, a factory one would be fine with me. The stall ratio is 1600 so if anyone knows where to get one this low, lemme know. Thanks
Ive got that instructor that does transmissions and custom torque converter, i think he wouldnt charge that much, ill ask next week
whats special about a diesel torque converter? whats expensive? should be under $100 for a knock-off brand 1600-2200 and ~$200-250 for a b&m or tci with 1200-1500 stall.
I think we should punch him in the throat for good measure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Snatch Adams