did you make those or buy them
Printable View
did you make those or buy them
I cant tell exactly, but if those are nylocks, I would concider using mechanical locking nuts instead or non locking. Also, Try and have at least a couple threads through the nut.
does anyone know where to get these. . .
http://stores.metalfusionstore.com/Detail.bok?no=26
i need body panel tabs
f*ck it I just bought 30 of these for $20.
http://www.aa-mfg.com/pdshop/shop/item.aspx?itemid=278
clayton damages and fixes.
1-dented shock-not bad enough to justify replacing-$0
2-antiwrap bar crossmember bent to sh*t-bought 2x1/4" box and 1/4" flat today for a new one-$100
3-broken brake line-brought it to HoseFast in Garland today, new banjo bolt-$20
4-broken stock arb line-bought a new braided stainless one from redrock4x4.com-$75
so i started on a new anti-wrap bar crossmember 1/4" angle and plate, and 2x2x1/4" box. Its not nearly done. . . I ran out of wire.
I hate that. The first time I ran out of wire on a Saturday night, I went out the following week and bought two boxes so I'd have a spare.
but then do you go out and buy another roll when you are into the second or just wait until you run out? I never know how this is suppose to work. You feel good about it when you have the spare whatever. the crummy part is when you forgot where you put it. for the sake of time trying to find it you go buy another one anyways. :)
Back on subject,
arb line should be in friday
muffler should be in tomorrow
In order to fit all the necessary bracing for the new cross-member I cut off the cat and glasspack and I am going to replace them with this
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4222&N=Dynomax Ultra Flo Welded Mufflers
the new crossmember is going to take alot more work but its comming along
Got more done on the x-member today, I'll finish it tomorrow.
Also got the exhaust done and its alot louder than I thought it was going to be. I got rid of the cat and installed a dynomax bullet muffler in place of the glasspack. The reason for all this was that the cat was in the way of the beefed up x-member and the glasspack squeezed under the spring was a bad idea, it got the sh*t beat out of it in clayton.
So pics.
thats a HUGE crossmember just for an anti-wrap bar.
this is what i did, its not going anywhere
did you see what happened to my old one? I want to ensure that never happens again. One good wack to yours from a rock and it'll end up looking like my old one.
Yours was down below the frame rails, even with the skid plate. Even with your new design, you might want to look into tying a skid between it and your tcase crossmember. It'd make it a bit more rigid and the rocks would be less likely to catch it when you're making forward progress.
http://tamor.org/forums/attachment.p...1&d=1224023196
Coops is up high, tucked directly behind the tcase (I guess that could be a benefit to the unclocked case). It'll take some work to get a rock up in there.
overdue pics of roof. 16 gauge.
overdue pics of crossmember. 1/4" plate, 2x2x1/4" box.
looks pretty good, but are you planning on taking this off while wheeling or changing the fastening hardware? looks like an easy way to stab yourself in the head...Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
I bet they are tucked up a bit better than what the picture shows, and a cutoff wheel would get rid of anything that is really sticking down too far.
anything sticking down like that is no bueno...Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
Ok, well, with the tube on the way I'm looking for ideas on fender protection. I do not want to do tube fenders, so please don't recommend that. The rear will be in the far future, so I'm trying to concentrate on the front.
I want to start at the stinger and run the tube even with the top of the fender through the fender flare and tie it into the a-pillar and slider.
I'm really looking for pictures of other jeeps that have something like this done. Anyone got any?
you fail at posting pics...
anyways. i remember you discussing this in clayton. in theory, its sounds great and fancy. but i think, it is a waste of time. the bar will get bent in because you think, hey i have something to protect my fender, and all it ends up doing is pushing it into your fender thus defeating the purpose of having it. this is why you see, stock, tube, or no fenders, and not so much of what your planning.
just build a tube fender to look like a stock one, and not so much like a flat fender.
Can it not be braced enough to keep it from bending?
old school
Thanks coop, thats almost exactly what I was thinking except have the bars partially hidden by the tj-flares, and wrapping into the cab to tie into the a-pillar.
Do you remember how his held up? It looks like they are in good condition there, but did he beat on them at all?
held up fine as far as i know, he was sprung under with almost no lift... so i think he used the tube to get him where he wanted to goQuote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
Like this. . .
http://s406.photobucket.com/albums/p...t=NewImage.jpg
Water pump went out at Soggy Bottom yesterday. Old one is out and new one is going in.
Got a 435 and adapter/mainshaft.
Got most of it installed with Flem last night but ran into a problem with too much play in the mainshaft. The old one didn't have a thrust washer/shim in between 3rd gear and 3rd to 4th synchro. The new main shaft needs one. So I ordered a small parts kit and gasket kit from standard transmission in Fort Worth. Should be in Monday.
gearing now: 34:1
gearing after: 65:1
progress, novak np435 to d-300 adapter and new mainshaft. Old main shaft is on top for comparison.
Took everything apart today, got the new truck pilot bearing in and the new mustang clutch on. Bellhousing is on. Tomorrow eveything else will be going together.
All done.
The run down. . .
New Mustang clutch
Stock ford pilot bushing
Stock (ish) cj skid/crossmember
Stock cj tranny mount
Same drivetrain length
22.5 degree clocked d-300
Custom tranny hump cover
Need to find new shifter boots
Got the stock cj shifter knob to work for a stockish appearance
65:1 low range
shifter looks huge,
What was your first gear low before?
PS let me know when you get close to
145:1
I nice tube skid/crossmember going to the oil pan to the rear-d-shaft with anti-wrap bar mount intergrated in is in the near future.Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
Also, I have a d-300 shifter boot in the mail.
before=32:1Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
now=65:1
d-300 build=100:1
axle regear=122:1
I think it looks great.
Cost run down. . .
NP435=$75
Pilot Bushing=$10
Gear oil=$25
Shifter Boots=$40
Adapter=$560
NP435 Small Parts Kit/Seal Kit=$40
Total=$750
Re-sell
T-176=$200
Clocking Kit=$175
Total=$375
Spent=$375 net
Looking good. Sounds like a good upgrade.
Tube work on drivers side is done. Passanger side is bent and will be going on tomorrow.
looks good,
I would build a radiator hoop, but if you roll, the radiator is probably the last of your worries
looks wierd from the front. also looks like the front part of the fender is left un-protected?
side view look good though:gigem: