you know what the best part of the whole jeep is?....
see you in clayton! :gigem:
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you know what the best part of the whole jeep is?....
see you in clayton! :gigem:
You know Owen Wilson?Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapJeep
:flipoff2:
sweet leather cellphone holder!Quote:
Originally Posted by J Cooper
I had planned on heading home to get the jeep this evening since I had my last final this afternoon. Talked with my dad and decided it would be best to just grab it in the morning due to the weather and awful traffic. Plan is to mount the skidplate, top off fluids, grab tools, etc then head back to CS to load the rest of my stuff and pickup Travis and Tyler. Should be leaving CS around 1-2ish would be my guess.
The Barn Burner is currently drying out in the shop after being trailered back from Baytown through snow.
Dad got the first burnout, though weak it still counts...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...nBurner006.jpg
I have to give it to your Dad for laying rubber before you did....
sweet:gigem:
If he would have only embraced laying the rubber sooner....Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
Looks good, but I feel sorry for it this weekend already :gigem:
Last week I picked up a new optima red top to replace the old one that went to Rodney, put the front driveshaft back together, and pulled the jeep off the trailer. With Clayton being its first shakedown run there were some issues as expected but it was still fun getting out and wheeling with the new setup.
The list of broken and malfunctioning parts included...
-Transmission (no second gear)
-Brakes (wouldn't hold in low range)
-Rear Driveshaft
-Rear t-case yoke
-Front driverside hub (lockout knob internals broke)
-Front driveshaft (made contact with the skidplate breaking the grease fitting off)
-Electric fan blades broke
-Fuel return line leaked
-Rear anti-wrap truss ripped off
-Rear springs creased
-Front driverside spring shim
After unloading it I pulled it in the shop and started pulling some of the broken stuff off. Drove it around to check for any other problem areas. Before the trip I had noticed a small oil leak coming from the backside of the block, mostly from the passenger side. First thought was that it was just the valve cover gasket but after running it after the trip it had worsened a bit. Definitely coming from the intake manifold, only about a quart has been lost. Pulling it off and resealing it has been added to the list.
Already ordered some parts and started to tear into it.
-D70 disk brake conversion kit from DIY, should be in shortly.
-1350 CV flange and pinion brake kit from Stak.
-Rancho rs44148 rear springs
-Warn premium lockouts
-Flexalite mustang fan, picked it up and installed in Clayton. Kicks ass.
-8 AN cap for the fuel cell to block off the return line.
-Dropping the trans. and taking it to Ricky for a rebuild or possibly a whole new built unit.
After I get the trans back and flange/pinion brake kit installed I will get a new rear driveshaft made. Plenty of other stuff I'm working on. I'll post some pics when I get a chance.
Progress from tonight. I really hadn't done anything except for pull the front hub and rear driveshaft pieces until tonight. Made some decent progress, tomorrow I'll drop the transmission then start working on other stuff. Pulling and/or installing the stak alone sucks, ended up bench pressing it down like last time. Already knew cork gaskets suck, just don't put rtv on them too.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown003.jpg
Broken shat... Both u-joints broke, front one is wedged in the cv, shot the clip out and flared the ear around the cap.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown002.jpg
1310?
are you getting a brake booster to put on as well?
would be hard to convert to power using the wilwood pedal as it uses two masters, making sure the masters are the correct bore is really what is needed
Yeah what's left of them. I'm running a 1410 at the axle in the rear and now a 1350 flange at the t-case. Front is still 1350 at the axle and 1310 at the case.Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
Very true. I looked in to finding a power booster after getting back from Clayton but have yet to come across anything that will work with the Wilwood setup. The master cylinder bores are 7/8. I'm hoping that after I go back and bench bleed them, install the rear disks, and adjust the balance bar it will be better.Quote:
Originally Posted by tigweld
are the brakes goin the floor or are you pressing really hard and they just don't clamp? If they still feel really spongy and go to the floor after you blead'em real good you may need to try a larger bore in the front. I think the 3/4 bore is good on the rear. also make sure the center washer in the balance bar isn't getting jammed as this can happen if you don't have staggered bores for f\r. even if you get the masters right i don't think the pedal on willwoods set-up is long enough to create the mad pressure need to be able to stop your jeep in low range in gear
I'm betting that a 70 wheel cylinder is big. if you only have a 3/4 bore on the master and say a 3/4/ or 7/8 maybe even 1" or 1 1/8" on the rear or maybe even bigger will that make a difference? I know some people put a gm 1 ton cylinder on the back. I'm guessing you will need a bigger master to make that work. I have know idea what a gm master cyl bore is... maybe a good place to start and compare from.
also double check to make sure your shoes are not too far from the drum and you're not using up all your stroke on the MC before you even make contact w/ the drums
Right now the pedal travels almost to the floor before locking the brakes up. The firewall is flexing when the pedal is depressed so I'm building a new plate mount for the master cylinders and pedal bracket to keep it from flexing. The steering shaft comes really close to the balance bar and prevented proper rod/plunger adjustment. I will move the whole assembly over a half inch to keep it from binding which should allow me to get it dialed in.
While bleeding the brakes I noticed the left rear was the only one with air coming out of the bleeder valve. I checked the lines for possible leaks coming from the flares but they were ok. When I rebuilt the d70 I replaced the left rear brake cylinder with a different unit close to the o.e. specs. It all worked but I'm assuming that it's the culprit, in hindsight I shouldn't have swapped it out. Really doesn't matter now since I'm doing the disk brake conversion.
I have seen the same wilwood system in rigs on pirate and in Crawl. I noticed that the pedal sweep in the pics are longer than what mine is set at. I can only speculate until I make the changes and see what the outcome is. There's always room for adjustments and it will just take some fine tuning.
Before the trip I had to pull the shafts and drums off to unstick the drum wheels. After I got it all back together I jacked up the rear axle, used a brake spoon to turn the drum wheels and spun each tire until the drums started to drag.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graystroke
Parts...
Disk brake parts, shims, and truss tabs
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown042.jpg
Hubs and springs
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown043.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown044.jpg
After draining atf...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown039.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown046.jpg
Trans out
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown047.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown052.jpg
Hubs installed
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown051.jpg
So what is the new trans going to be? Same th350? Anything special in it, what torque converter are you going with.
What are you going to do about cooling?
I think the trans was just mad at you for getting so much overspray on it.
:laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
I'm sticking with a th350 because I already have the stak adapter, shifter, deep trans pan, built a crossmember, etc for one. Haven't decided on the converter and build for the new trans, I'll be talking it over with Ricky who will be doing the work for a final decision. I imagine it will have a similar build to the th400 in the Chevelle.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
It already has a TCI cooler mounted in front of the radiator, you can see the cooler lines in the first trans pic.
That's just blue accent on the silver housing...:laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
Didn't you have a fan related issue?Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapJeep
My bad, I thought you were asking about cooling for the transmission.
Two of the blades broke on my old universal fit flexalite, worked great on a 258 but didn't move enough air for the 383. I now have a flexalite S fan with a large shroud, no more cooling issues.
did you ever re-mount and rewire it? personally, i see no need to.Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapJeep
have you made any more progress on this lately, will it make it to karls bach party trip to 47
Messed with it a little while I was in town last weekend. I'm planning on doing some work on it this weekend though. Need to check on the status of the trans and maybe something else.
Did a little work this past weekend. Made progress on the new rear anti-wrap axle truss and disk brake conversion, I'll finish it up next time. I have a few other small items to wrap up but nothing major.
The parts for the transmission came in and it will be ready to go late next week after they get back from racing in Gainsville.
Brought my tools and stuff back to CS and finally made a little shop area in my apt. Working on installing the rear pinion brake for the stak. My neighbor saw me bringing the stak in and thought it was pretty funny, didn't know I was in to this kind of stuff.
Forgot to bring my camera last weekend but I snapped a pic of my apt workspace.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown065.jpg
Paint things in the bathtub, I hear that is a good idea.
You dragged your Stak all the way up here just to do the 10 minute job of installing an e-brake rotor?
Take a look at the picture...there's more to it than just slapping on a rotor.
i brake for beavers :gigem:
thats a cute tool box
This weekend I finished the truss up and welded it to the axle, just need to weld on the link mount tabs then it'll be set. Still have work to do on the disk brake conversion though. The transmission should be ready sometime this week. Plan is to try and get it back together next weekend.
Earlier this week I swapped out the rear output housing plate and installed the pinion brake kit. The arm/lever is a little too long and contacts the case but I'll cut it down and drill a new hole for the e-brake linkage.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...edown001-1.jpg
Truss/anti-wrap setup finished, ready to paint. Pick up calipers and finish disk brakes tomorrow. No transmission yet.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...edown003-2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...edown005-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown008.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown009.jpg
Interesting, I guess with no gas tank back there you have lots of clearance. What are you going to do for brakes?
Looks like you may be asking alot of the welds between the truss and axle tube with out any other bracing. A small brace towards the pinion, or somehow wrap a piece of plate around some of the axle tube.
Something like this...