Quote:
Originally Posted by davido
it keeps it perfectly centered instead or relatively centered like a panhard bar. I think Kopecki said his was going to be a 4 link with the watts linkage.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davido
it keeps it perfectly centered instead or relatively centered like a panhard bar. I think Kopecki said his was going to be a 4 link with the watts linkage.
This helps explain it a little
http://www.spitzracing.com/watts_link.htm
So there I was, welding away on the frame rail, when suddenly, the sum***** caught big fire flames. Turns out somebody arced a fuel line. So that was the end of last night.
Got started again this morning 11:00. Finished at 9. It sits about 1.5" lower than it used to, so if anybody has some 2" lift springs for a TJ or XJ I'm in the market for them. I'm missing my camera again so no pics, maybe I draw one tomorrow. Sure acts different now.
is there a reason you can't make adjustable-height upper coil buckets?
They'd have to be spacers. If the coils were mounted on the side of the frame it'd be easy to do by just bolting it on and having lots of different holes. But they're mounted under the frame. I could weld somethin like a 1.5" allthread to the bottom of the frame and weld the upper bucket to a nut so it could be spun up and down and have another nut to lock it. But that's more work and I'm lazy and wouldn't mind stiffer springs either. It soft.
This is what I was thinking, but I couldn't find the pictureQuote:
Originally Posted by eight
So, I decided to build exhausts. Got my muffler and started planning, couldn't find a dam place to put it. No room in the normal area. Maybe if I got a dual offset 10" long muffler. So I went to my local parts store and found the answer. Got all the driveshaft parts I need, so probably build one of those today. Seguin Driveline said they could make a driveshaft out of 2" .120" wall tubing for me, so any of yall that are into buying driveshafts may want to check there. Then work on motor problems later. Maybe even put some spacers under the coils. Also found my digital camera so I can get yall some pictures.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
hmm, vague, this should be good
Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
Was that a typo, or is the shaft really only gonna be .120 wall? I may be wrong, but that seems kinda thin. My old high angle was a lot thicker than that (I'm thinking it was .250). My current square shafts are also .250 wall, and they still have some pretty deep gouges
Doubtful... I don't care what he told you - it wasn't that thick.Quote:
Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN
it was still more than .120
.120 is a common thickness for driveshafts
When I ordered my rear High angle shaft I specifically asked Jesse about a heavier wall and he said that it isnt good on street driven trucks (obviously the buggy isnt, I was just throwing this out there). He usually uses .120 but on mine I think he used .188 because its so long (~60").
Well noone in BCS could make one over .095" wall. So my new dirveshaft is 1.75" OD, so I need to find something with a 1.75" + a little maybe ID. Need some 1 3/4" sch80 but turns out they don't make that. Some 2.25" .250" wall DOM would work, but not sure if they make that, or where to get. The XJ driveshaft is right about the right length, when I sleeve it I'll make it 1" shorter.
Some pics.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ods/links2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ods/links4.jpg
And my compact muffeling solution that matches jeep.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ds/muffler.jpg