Who had March 14th?

I have the 3" flowmasters from the bronco. And I still have the bronco but cut the body up so technically still have it

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Originally Posted by Hot Pocket

The rest of the parts came in today.

Let's talk exhaust. For the moment, it needs something on there, so short term I'm thinking 2.25" tubing into some cheapo oreilly mufflers, staying true duals

After I get the transmission and transfer case rebuilt, I'd like to do the exhaust right and go with some headers, then 2.25" pipe into an X-pipe, with some glasspacks.

I've heard people say that glasspacks = no backpressure, and that's not bueno for a truck that needs to make lots of low end torque, but can I compensate for the lack of backpressure by staying with 2.25" pipes and an x-pipe?

Thoughts? Oh, and I like it loud! :gigem:

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More important than a x pipe or certain size pipe is making sure the exhaust is routed in a protective manner.

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Originally Posted by Hot Pocket

I have not, I'm still waiting on the rest of the parts to come in from JBG, so the lift isnt finished yet. That picture was taken just to get an idea of how it should look. Should I go with 4 or 7 degree bushings?

Parts on order:
Drop pitman arm
Drop Track Bar bracket
Track Bar Bushings

My shocks came in yesterday, going with the Rancho 5000 series

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The recomended degree for a 4 inch lift is 4degrees, but as a whole the ford radius arm trucks like more caster so I would go with 7 degree bushings( will help the axle return to center faster). If you want it to drive really nice get a set of radius arm drop downs for the lift. They are not ideal off road, but make it drive good on road. There is a big difference in road manners between the two. If you get drop downs you won't have to get degreed bushings.

There are some other tricks to get it to drive better call me and i will give you some hints.

Now for a psa, I think you need to decide what you want the truck to be whether it is a truck like tommy's that you beat on, or a truck that could be daily driven like my blue truck. I'm cool with whatever you wanna do, but it is hard to go from beater to cruiser.

Looks good do far.

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Originally Posted by stx4wheeler

The recomended degree for a 4 inch lift is 4degrees, but as a whole the ford radius arm trucks like more caster so I would go with 7 degree bushings( will help the axle return to center faster). If you want it to drive really nice get a set of radius arm drop downs for the lift. They are not ideal off road, but make it drive good on road. There is a big difference in road manners between the two. If you get drop downs you won't have to get degreed bushings.

There are some other tricks to get it to drive better call me and i will give you some hints.

Now for a psa, I think you need to decide what you want the truck to be whether it is a truck like tommy's that you beat on, or a truck that could be daily driven like my blue truck. I'm cool with whatever you wanna do, but it is hard to go from beater to cruiser.

Looks good do far.

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First priority is that it needs to be something that can be daily driven, but I'd like to build it so that it can do some very light wheeling. I was looking at radius arm drop down brackets, and the cheapest I can find them for is over $200, so I'll probably wind up ordering the correction bushings.

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Originally Posted by Hot Pocket

First priority is that it needs to be something that can be daily driven, but I'd like to build it so that it can do some very light wheeling. I was looking at radius arm drop down brackets, and the cheapest I can find them for is over $200, so I'll probably wind up ordering the correction bushings.

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I thought you drive a jetta? Why do you need this to be a DD?

I do have a Jetta, but I would like for this to be able to drive out to a trail and then drive home since I have nothing to tow it with.

Not to mention, I really do just enjoy taking this thing out for joyrides every other day.

you wont have fun on the trail if you are worried about making it home... someone will almost always have a spot on a trailer

Regardless, I want this thing to be in good enough shape to handle a drive to college station and beyond without having any problems.

Yeah, I would skip the drop brackets. It will still be streetable without them but I think they would be a killer to ground clearance offroad.

glasspacks sound like ****, go flowmasters or something of the like IMO

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Originally Posted by tommy53002

Yeah, I would skip the drop brackets. It will still be streetable without them but I think they would be a killer to ground clearance offroad.

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Ever driven a truck without drop brackets? I did it for 3 years, it was like the steering wheel was punching me on the highway.

If you are worried about rubbing a 4" drop radius arm, you should be worried about rubbing your body/doors. And if you are worried about that, it should not be a daily driver.

I threw away some drop brackets last year. I would not recommend drop brackets for street or off-road. Go with the 7 degree bushings and be done with it until you can extend the radius arms. I had the drop brackets on my bronco and not only did they hang up on everything they are also very prone to ripping the **** off the frame.


The highway drive sucked equally with or without drop brackets.

Being a 'street/cruiser' rig, if you want to go with the glass packs, knock yourself out. A few drives from H-town to aggieland may have you rethinking this, but you are still young enough that it may not. :D

(Going to have to get the glasspack replaced on the beast replaced in short order once the block gets put back in. May have a flange installed so that I can swap it out for Alto trips though. :laughing: )

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Originally Posted by sam_hodnett

glasspacks sound like ****, go flowmasters or something of the like IMO

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everybody has their own taste when it comes to mufflers, and personally I can't stand da flows

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Originally Posted by BroncoJo

I threw away some drop brackets last year. I would not recommend drop brackets for street or off-road. Go with the 7 degree bushings and be done with it until you can extend the radius arms. I had the drop brackets on my bronco and not only did they hang up on everything they are also very prone to ripping the **** off the frame.


The highway drive sucked equally with or without drop brackets.

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Thanks, Since you and frick have both told me to go with 7 degree bushings, I'm going to go ahead and order them now. Thanks for the advice.

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Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH

Being a 'street/cruiser' rig, if you want to go with the glass packs, knock yourself out. A few drives from H-town to aggieland may have you rethinking this, but you are still young enough that it may not. :D

(Going to have to get the glasspack replaced on the beast replaced in short order once the block gets put back in. May have a flange installed so that I can swap it out for Alto trips though. :laughing: )

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The glasspacks will just be a temporary setup. I need to get some kind of exhaust on it so that I can pass inspection (current setup is true dual redneck straightpipes.) Glasspacks will probably be on here for a year at most. As far as long term exhaust, I'd like to go x-pipes and put in some awesome mufflers, but that's further down the line. I'd like to get other things taken care of first.

as for mufflers just to get it legal just find used ones floating around the club, i am sure there are some, talk to my brother or cory and see what they have

i have one but it is in round top. i just sold the ones i had in montgomery.

Real rigs drive home :flipoff2:

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Originally Posted by breckboarder55

Real rigs drive home :flipoff2:

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Says the recently blown up, transmission going out jeep :confused:



:flipoff2::flipoff2:

DONE
- Rancho 5000's and springs ubolts etc
- New Voltage Regulator = No more short on electrical system
- New Radiator, drove it for about 2 hours or so at idle, and never went over 175
- New Gauges
- Temporary Exhaust installed
- New fuel filter
- Removed Aftermarket cruise control, other junk under hood
- SEAFOAM!!

GOALS - short term
- Finish front bumper tubing & install recovery points/lights
- Lengthen Rear Driveshaft 2-3 inches
- Rear bumper needs to be fabbed up & install recovery points
- Need to install drop pitman arm, drop track bar bracket, new track bar bushings, radius arm bushings (finish lift)
- Install front and rear pinion seals
- Install New wheel bearings
- Install New hubs
- Install CB/PA
- New Fuel Gauge
- New Battery hold-down
- Replace heater hoses
- Wire brake lights & turn signals (4 new sockets and bulbs)
- Seat covers? Maybe replacement seats, haven't decided yet
- Alignment

GOALS - long term
- T18, 205 rebuild
- New Door hinges, latch pins, handles
- On Board Air
- Cardone power steering pump
- New Tie Rod
- Rear Locker (who makes good lockers for the 9 inch?)
- 130 Amp 3g alternator
- Roll Bar, Cage?
- Homemade soft top
- Stereo System
- HID headlights
- Equus Speedo & Tach, custom gauge panel
- Redo Interior

I need to meet with someone at Dexter. I'd like to get a cage or at least a roll bar on this thing, and I'd also like to hire someone there to build me some custom bumpers.

you shouldn't need to extend the d-shafts with a 4" lift I believe.

I have a lot of parts from my bronco that you might want to "restore" yours. I am not gonna post pics and such right now. You need to come to SA and check it all out

How do you plan on changing the pinion seal on the 9"

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Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02

How do you plan on changing the pinion seal on the 9"

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JB Weld has always worked well for me. Last time you worked on my 9" you used ky though, right????

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Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02

How do you plan on changing the pinion seal on the 9"

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The only way Hot Picket knows how, , , blindly and without reason!!??:gigem:

I have unofficially dubbed the truck
"The Microwave"

Got the following things done

- Install New wheel bearings
- Install New hubs
- Replace heater hoses

Also, here are some pictures of the microwave as it is now.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5137854_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._6630848_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._7658482_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._2051329_n.jpg

The truck is not getting fuel.

When I pull the throttle cable on the carb, it tries to squirt fuel in, but it just won't do it.

There is a small amount of fuel in the fuel filter right next to the carb, but not as much as there normally is.

What has gone wrong here? Where should I start looking? I would guess fuel pump, but I'm not sure.

is there fuel in the tank?

haha, yes there is fuel in the tank

Mechanical fuel pumps are like $20 so thats a good place to start.

Is there any way I can diagnose the problem instead of just throwing money at new parts?

Throwing new parts at it until it works again is all fine and dandy, and it is usually the Hot Pocket way of doing things, but I'm trying to learn from my mistakes here :flipoff2:

Pull the fuel line at the carb, point it at a bucket. Have someone crank engine to see if it's pumping fuel out. If no fuel pull line going to the inlet side of the pump, make sure you get fuel out of there. If no fuel keep working your way back till you find it. If there is fuel replace the pump.

You can disconnect the fuel line before the filter and blow compressed air through it to free any obstuctions but that kinda of **** usually gets caught in the filter. Its twenty ****ing dollars. I know you have "other priorities" like bongs that cost more than your bronco but replacing the pump is your best bet at this point.

The only thing I would add to BDR's is to check both sides of the clear filter to see if it will actually let any through.

If you have a hard time seeing anything under the hood, a zippo makes for a real good flashlight when checking fuel lines. Not near as explosive as the butane lighters are...

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Originally Posted by mudtoy67

Pull the fuel line at the carb, point it at a bucket. Have someone crank engine to see if it's pumping fuel out. If no fuel pull line going to the inlet side of the pump, make sure you get fuel out of there. If no fuel keep working your way back till you find it. If there is fuel replace the pump.

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Thanks, I'll give it a shot. Where is the fuel pump on my truck? I seem to have misplaced my haynes manual.

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Originally Posted by Sharpe

You can disconnect the fuel line before the filter and blow compressed air through it to free any obstuctions but that kinda of **** usually gets caught in the filter. Its twenty ****ing dollars. I know you have "other priorities" like bongs that cost more than your bronco but replacing the pump is your best bet at this point.

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I have no problem spending 20 bucks on a fuel pump. I'm just concerned that I spend the $20 and that doesn't fix the problem.

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Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH

The only thing I would add to BDR's is to check both sides of the clear filter to see if it will actually let any through.

If you have a hard time seeing anything under the hood, a zippo makes for a real good flashlight when checking fuel lines. Not near as explosive as the butane lighters are...

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The fuel filter next to the carb is maybe a month old, but I'll start going through the fuel lines, and post up what I find

Thanks

you can have my mech fuel pump if you buy me a block off plate ($6 on summit). I bought it last dec. I have an electric one now for fool injection.

Your pump is located on the drivers side of the block. Just follow the metal fuel line down to the side of the block.

Oh, and mine had 2 fuel filters, one was inside the frame rail right under the door. Check that one. On the way back from k2 last year my truck kept shutting off and we couldn't figure out why. We took off the filter, which was pretty new I might add and it was clogged. We waited till we bought a new coil to figure that out though.......

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Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV

you can have my mech fuel pump if you buy me a block off plate ($6 on summit). I bought it last dec. I have an electric one now for fool injection.

Your pump is located on the drivers side of the block. Just follow the metal fuel line down to the side of the block.

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It's the thing right next to the oil filter correct??

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Originally Posted by Hot Pocket

It's the thing right next to the oil filter correct??

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yeah

Replaced the fuel pump today. Carb is still not supplying fuel. I replaced the fuel filter as well. Found out that the P.O. decided to eliminate the fuel filter located under the driver side door, so the truck only has the filter right before the carb.


Either way, truck won't start. Looking at carburetor issues now, Can anyone tell me where to go from here?

tbi

ready, go!