Pigpen

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Originally Posted by agjohn02

whats special about a diesel torque converter? whats expensive? should be under $100 for a knock-off brand 1600-2200 and ~$200-250 for a b&m or tci with 1200-1500 stall.

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diesel converters are much tighter, stall is all dependant on torque output and rpm range. higher torque=higher stall. that is why two different motor's same converter will result in two different stall speeds, flash speeds, and even top end slippage. torque converters are not so cut and dry as many people make them out to be, they can make or break how fast or how well a a car moves.

Well I was browsing pirate and it looks like DD Machine is going to stop making the 241 doubler I want after the current stock runs out so I might plop down some scratch on one of those while they are still available. I need to sell some more ****, anyone need a kidney or testicle?

The Kennedy diesel rebuilt injection pump is $475 and the Napa rebuilt pump is $431, each price is after the core charge. Is the Kennedy version worth the extra money? A set of injectors from Kennedy is $280 and from napa is WAY more so I deffinately know where I'm getting the injectors.

Try Tim at www.AccurateDiesel.com - muy bueno prices, and awesome work. He made my custom DB2-4911 for 1/2 of what Kennedy was asking...very baller. :flipoff2:

Dang a set of injectors from Accurate is only $148! I couldnt find a price for the pump rebuild on the site but I'll call him later, I'm sure it'll be hella cheaper. I owe you a case of beer for all the help Oliver, thanks.

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Originally Posted by afroman006

I like this one cause it comes with baller A/N stuff that would look way out of place on pigpen but its prety damn expensive.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=10535

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Hey cracka, if ya gonna get kicked in the gonads then atleast get it right. It's balla. :rolleyes:

Well I got Pigpen's old motor taken out and disassembled yesterday. It has two cracked pistons, with one missing a small chunk out of the top of it :laughing: (good call Oliver). In addition to that the tops of a few other pistons were all dinged up from god knows what and I'm assuming the walls in those particular clinders will be ****ed up too. I'm probably going to end up using the rotating assembly from the motor Ed's brother brought me, it had a bit of water in a couple of cylinders and some rust but hopefully no pitting.

After I get the block all cleaned up, I need to decide which set of heads I'm going to use. I will use the lower performance ones for now, and rebuild the better ones to put on later. I have been doing some browsing over on the diesel page and have gotten learn't on which heads are better for what. I'll get some pics and post em up later.

Well today me and Ryan finished disassembling the "new" motor and we are deffinately going to use it. One cylinder has a bit of surface rust on it but the rest of the motor is actually in excelent shape. We cleaned the **** out of it today and will do the honing and begin reassembly tomorow.

The "old" motor turned out to have 3 cracked pistons, here's some pics of the shatyness.

A few more. You know its actually prety impressive that this thing ran at all with how F'd up it was inside.

Ditto man. I have a new found respect for 6.2's, I'm really surprised it held up to all that.

so you are assuming hydro-locking it didnt crack any of the pistons?

I was never hydrolocked. When it died at Alto there was no water in the cylinders, I took all the glowplugs out and cranked it over to check. I think the water that caused the rust in the cylinders came from when I was hosing the mud off the truck. I wasnt really concerned about the motor at that point so I was just spraying the **** out of everything in the engine compartment.

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Originally Posted by uglyota 12 pages and over 6 months ago

Sounds to me like it's time for you to learn how to rebuild a motor.

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:flipoff2:

If water were in the cylinder, the rod would have bent before the piston cracked. Cracked pistons in 6.2s are generally due to high and/or concentrated EGTs - like running the crap out of it, or a bad spray pattern on an injector.

There are two kinds of heads - 6.2 and 6.5. Within that there are some variations of mounting points for accessories, but not much more. The primary difference is the angle of the injectors, and the prechambers that came in the head. Either head can run any injector, and accepts all prechambers.

I recommend 6.5TD injectors (short body) on your regular 6.2L heads (just bend the injector lines to fit) with the small economy prechamber (probably what is already in the head). That will give you a good, clean burn and will work very well with a turbo.

From what I read on the diesel page it sounded like for power I wanted the larger prechambers from later 6.5s. They sacrificed the better fuel economy of the smaller prechambers in order to produce more power but this is pigpen so mileage aint no concern. As of right now it looks like I'm going to have to get the block bored out .020 because of cylinder wear. I was hoping to avoid this due to the extra expense, are there any cheaper options?

dingleberries

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Originally Posted by agjohn02

dingleberries

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nice constructive input

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Originally Posted by RCook527

nice constructive input

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it is. search newb. i know grayson has said it.

Are you refering to a bottle brush? If so, how would that help worn cylinder walls?

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Originally Posted by afroman006

Are you refering to a bottle brush? If so, how would that help worn cylinder walls?

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http://www.nolansupply.com/lgimages/11200050.jpg

By the way, don't try and google the word dingleberry thinking you're going to find pictures of hones...:laughing: :eek:

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Originally Posted by mudtoy67

http://www.nolansupply.com/lgimages/11200050.jpg

By the way, don't try and google the word dingleberry thinking you're going to find pictures of hoes...:laughing: :eek:

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what???

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Originally Posted by mudtoy67

By the way, don't try and google the word dingleberry thinking you're going to find pictures of hones...:laughing: :eek:

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:laughing:

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Originally Posted by afroman006

From what I read on the diesel page it sounded like for power I wanted the larger prechambers from later 6.5s. They sacrificed the better fuel economy of the smaller prechambers in order to produce more power but this is pigpen so mileage aint no concern.

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The bigger prechambers are better for high end power. Since you'll spend most of you time between idle and 1500, and the smaller prechambers are probably a better candidate since their smaller displacement actually produces better low end torque. I have the big prechambers, and they're nice for anything ~1800 and over when I'm making 10+ psi. If you're looking to shore up the budget, don't waste money on bigger prechambers - reuse what you have as long as they're not badly cracked.

Ok cool. Among the smaller pre-chambers, which are the best ones? IIRC correctly, of the two sets of a heads I have in the garage, one has the single square dot chambers and the other has 2 square dots. I'll need to check and see what I have back at my shop but those are the 2 "useable" sets I have laying around.

The single dot pre-cups were originally used in light-duty 6.2L applications from 1982-90, while the pre-cups with 2 dots were originally used in heavy-duty 6.2L applications from 1986-90.

1 Dot PN: 23500082
2 Dot PN: 23500250

I'd say pick the set that is in better shape, and purchase 4 to match for the other head.

My radiator got stolen, which bring this motor build to a screeching halt. There's no way in hell I can afford a new radiator after the motor build so I won't be wheeling in Clayton. I'm still up to tow someone though, check the Clayton thread.

I started my boatsiding today, it looks prety piomp.

who in the hell would steal your radiator?

The same guy who stole his bike... :flipoff2:

His bike had a 6.2 also???? :gigem: :flipoff2:

check the scrap yard

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Originally Posted by Reckless

who in the hell would steal your radiator?

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Someone wanting to recycle it. If I have any metal laying in our driveway (which is all the time) I have people that stop by and ask me if they can have it at least once a month. I'm pretty sure they would just take it if I didn't live on such a busy street.

now that I think of it I know I used to have a 6.2 radiator. I'm not sure if I gave it to the guy that bought that craptastic blazer I had. If I knew it was at the property I'd just give it to you. I'm about 75% sure I gave it to the guy. :(

couldn't you substitute a different(cheaper) radiator to work? it will be cold outside in clayton

6.2 radiators are fawking huge (biggest one GM makes) and a smaller one would probably be fine in Clayton but the 6.2 ones have 1 3/4" hose necks and big and small blocks have 1 1/2".

hose clamps will take up the slack, and take the hood off if its still getting hot

but you are not putting that much of a load onto that engine, so prob a smaller radatior will work, i might be able to find ya one if i look hard enough

if you get really desperate you can borrow the one out of the bronco, i wont be going to clayton and its already out cuz of the motor swap

ive got a couple of z28 radiators. ill let you have one for scrap price if you want it.

Got the boatsiding on the driver's side mostly done. Sliders are 3x6 1/4 wall and the frame runners are 2" 1/4 wall tube. I have one more runner to make and then patch up the floor before moving on to the other side.

you need bigger tires