Lookin' slick. I passed by you guys on 290 twice in the last couple of days. 6AM on Sunday on my way out and 2AM this morning on my way back. I was hoping to stop and see it, but timeframe didn't work out.
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Lookin' slick. I passed by you guys on 290 twice in the last couple of days. 6AM on Sunday on my way out and 2AM this morning on my way back. I was hoping to stop and see it, but timeframe didn't work out.
got my steering stuff in, working on my traction bar
started a thread on Pirate...
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=1#post6590665
Looks like Christmas in your shop. :gigem:
steering is on, traction bar is done. Need to mount the steering valve - not exactly sure of the best way yet...
now - how should I mount to this orbital valve?
one more of the traction bar - the upper mount
What kind of joint is that on the antiwrap bar? How did you make the really long notch to connect the tubes at the front end of the bar?
The joint at the skidplate is a Johnny Joint. The first time I made the notch, I did it with a plasma cutter - I overcut and started over. The second time, I used a sawzaw and it worked good - I just didn't figure in the arch of the tube and had a bigger weld then I wanted to - still not that bad though...Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
the tab under your front leaf perch makes me go, "hmmm?"
Tie Down?
brake line tab
http://tamor.org/forums/attachment.p...tid=9967&stc=1
yep - all 4 corners, outside only.Quote:
Originally Posted by Reckless
thats going to be a PITA to fill your diff with the track bar there
I have a hose...Quote:
Originally Posted by 73bronco
Use this and a printer with some 11x17 paper?Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
http://metalgeek.com/cgi-system/php5...atic/cope.pcgi
that should work pretty good
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepPhisherman
thats pretty dang cool, but i doubt it would be easier than eyeballing and using a notcher. probably would be best if used for angles greater than a notcher can handle... like scott's traction bar.
Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
are you running the other end to the side of the trailer? looks like the tie down would hit the tire.
I plan on adding some tie-downs on the trailer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepPhisherman
This one wouldn't work for me, but this one did.
http://metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi
It still works for me, and seems like everyone else. Must be that danged ole iraqwi intarweb.Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
Anyway, I like the patterns, I used them on my sliders, even though all but 2 of the bends were 90's. It helped to have a pattern since I was doing it all with a grinder.
I will be keeping this for help when building cattle pens, but I usually just make a little hinged one like you can buy at TSC for that since 99.9% of those are 90 deg. also.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
yes, those are the best things you can buy when building pipe fence. i started out with the paper wrap-around and trace kind, then got the steel clamp ons. eventually, you dont need even the clamp on anymore. you get the hang of it and just fill the gaps with rod. if you cut it slightly off, the pipe sticks between the posts better anyways and you dont have to hold it up.
You do know that rods cost money, and once you get the hang of it they should be a tight fit almost every time. :flipoff2: I have put enough of them together though to have had to fill in some pretty big holes from not payin attention with the hot wrench.
when its 100+ outside and im cutting pipe for a fence. im not too worried about proper fitment. everything hard gets done in the summer around home. i got that from my dad. growing up, anytime i would break something, he say, "i built that (insert broken item here) one july when it was 110 degrees..."
edit: now back to your regularly scheduled jeep building...
Did you get your orbital mounted? I'd try to mount it on the firewall if you can. I didn't have room on mine and wound up mounting it above the frame using a simple flat plate that bolted between the valve and the flanged column.
The closer to the frame, the less hose you have to use and it keeps the hose out of the exhaust manifold.
you should mount it right behind the dash and run the hose through the firewall...
not yet, looks like I will be pretty busy all week with a class for work. I will probably mount it on the frame like I did for the Patrol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cajun
You said that you used a flat plate between the valve and the column? On mine, the column shaft doesn't look like it would have near enough spline engagement into the valve to add some plate between the two. I think that there is only like .5" of spline. If I put .25" plate in there, there would only be .25" left of engagement.
Mine came with a mounting plate laser cut to fit between the valve and column. If you're concerned with spline engagement, maybe 1/8" plate and some gussets would work.
those tabs are just there to stiffen up the plate on the column extension. cut them off and put your mount outside. if you are concerned enough to put stiffeners on your mount plate then do that.
That's what I plan on doing, it should be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
....but put it on the passanger side, that would be -pimp-Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
how much caster are you running?
I believe I set it at 4 or 5 degrees.
Orbital mounted, front shock hoops done, battery mount done, the front hard brake line is done. Still to do:
Mount PS fuild reservoir
mount rear shcoks
re-route driver side grill support bar
make the tailgate stops
cage - mount seatbelts, seats, etc...
cover hole in floor
bodywork
paint
wire up
details
I'll try to get some pics up this week
Why is everybody getting so much work done and I am not, I htink I need to get to work.
Oh btw, sounds good scott
pics from the stuff I did last weekend - and the stuff this weekend. My tailgate latch and cable mounts came out pretty good.
Still to do:
Mount air tank
mount rear seat (still need to find one I like)
mount air filter / pressure switch near air compressor
cage - mount seatbelts, seats, etc...
cover hole in floor
bodywork
paint
wire up
details
This should be ready for katemcy then
I wish - with at least a week for powder coating (after I build the cage), and at least a week for paint, then a week for wires, I don't see it.
I would rather finish it completly than rush to the finish and NEVER get it done right because "hell, it already runs and work great"...
yeah good Idea