How many horsepower does the ram air hood add?
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How many horsepower does the ram air hood add?
What happened to the rest of your kustom light bar?
Ram Air Hood adds 15.3 HP.
Custom Light Bar was found to be one of the major root causes of the 8274 failure, so it was removed in favor of 2 sharp pointy pieces of angle iron.
Driveshaft geihness....
Ok, so if I am going to shell out money for a fancy round driveshaft, I might as well make it strong and right. Currently the Klogger ran a square tube shaft with 1330's on each end. I realize that u-joint strength is a function of angle and a lot of other things, but here is a dumbed down version on strength of u-joints and allowable angle below from a random interweb source
Series Torque lb/ft Angle
1310 1600 30
1330 1800 20
1350 2200 20
1410 2800 37
Seems most big boy rigs run 1350 u-joints or better. Although my information above does not indicate it, I have heard reference that the 1350 joint allows less angle than a 1350. So here is my plan, broken down with cost estimates starting from the t-case end to the axle end.
Replace Transfer case yoke with a 1410 yoke, it is stronger and allows for more angle. The t-case yoke is critical as it is relatively parallel to the ground and can not be rotated like the axle yoke. Also cheaper than going double cardon with a 1350. Cost $89
1410 U-joint ? Cost $31
1410 Tube Yoke to 2? X 0.120 wall tube, this is dictated by the slip collar shown later - $85
2? X 0.120 wall tube 3? - $30
Neapco 53-2415 Sleeve. Cool flyer about this product here: http://www.neapco.com/pdf/Rock_Crawl...er_9901315.pdf note this has to be turned down to fit the 2? X0.120 Wall tube - $52.17
Neapco 2231-3 10 Spline Shaft, 25? long, 6? has to go in collar, 1? has to go in other end, leaving 18? of pure awesome travel. Thought about cutting this in half, but 12.5 minus the 6? collar, only leave 6? travel, which is no bueno por caca. - $140.53
Neapco 53-2415 Sleeve. Buy an extra sleeve, cut it into 1/3?s, use it for an adapter from the spline to tube. I could make something in a lathe, but for $50, I could make 3 of these adapter and it would be stronger I think - $52.17
Small section of 2? X 0.120 wall tube from above purchase
1350 Tube Yoke 2? X 0.120 wall - $26.89
1350 Spicer U-joint - $24
1350 Dana 60 Yoke, 1350 will work on driveshaft end for 2 reasons, one the angle change is not as great as it is at the t-case end, and this will be a weak link, I think the 1410 would break the pinion before breaking - $69
Various u-joint straps - $20
Total for an 18? travel driveshaft with good u-joints, etc? $619.76 F? me. I know you can get a driveshaft from high angle in the $500 range, but this is not upgrading outputs to 1410 and 1350, which I think you need to do. Comments or ideas how to do it cheaper?
I have never broken a driveshaft u joint, and mine are stock. Change the t-case yoke to 1350 and get a used f250 driveshaft. Get it retubed for length. Should be around $300
Travis broke my cv....that's another story though
i know brian broke several 1350 joints in the blazer. ive broke a **** ton of 1310 but then again those are 1310 and most came with the driveshafts i shortened and installed.....
Buy big driveshafts from a junkyard and retube them. Cut down on new driveshaft parts as much as you can.
The issue is with reverse shackles and my flex a "stock" driveshaft slip joint is too short. The longest available is used in Ford Pickups and offers 6" to 7"'s of slip, I need around 10" of slip. Additionally finding F250 cardon joints for front 4x4's is pretty hard.
the only reason that i would gernade 1350 daily on trips was because I was running them at extreme angles, judging by you above angle limits i would guess i was in the 15-20 degree range, that and lots of axle wrap. On the other hand I have broken a 1350 cv but that was because I was being stupid and full throttled a 3.5 - 4 foot ledge. All in all if I were to do it agian I would figure out how to run a 1410 at all ends and not cv's, which may be in my future
I run Woody's. they seem to have better track record and customer service for about the same $
I'm also running 1350 with minimal slip. My link setup doesn't move much.
It moved quite a bit at TCC last year ;)
Hey-oooooooplQuote:
Originally Posted by JB
That would be a major advantage of link setups, you do not need much slip because the links themselves locate the axle.
I'd either do what Sparling said or just call Jesse and order what you need. I bought mine from Jesse and I've never touched my front one. Ever.
However, Scott identified my rear as matching a F250 front shaft, just shortened. I was blowing out the CVs (when I break a spring, the axle slides forward and jambs it up) and they were expensive. But now I'm able to fix them on the cheap. I picked up two for $175 from the junkyard and thanks to Doug I have a replacement and now have a spare.
I've bought a couple 1350 flanges and 1410 yoke from Jesse, had great service and got the parts quick.
I had my driveshafts built by Houston Drivetrain Service (North side of 610 and Wayside). Both are double cardon, 1410's at the axles and 1350 flanges at the Stak. I took my front shaft back to them and had a long slip (like 16"s if I recall) added in. Works great now.
Who is Jesse?
High angle drivelineQuote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
Jesse is the owner of High Angle. His **** is pricey but his customer service is great and he's about the easiest way to just get it done.
X2Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
I highly recommend him and his ability to put out an outstanding product. It may cost a few dollars more, but the time and trouble saved are well worth it.
Ordered my driveshaft stuff from Ontario Engine & Machine:
http://www.ontarioengine.com/
They had the best price on the shaft/sleeve - $175.65 for the shaft and sleeve
At any rate, I ordered it a little over a week ago and had not recieved, so I called the number. The owner/manager Vic Logan answered. Super nice guy, he remembered the order just by me saying I ordered a long travel spline and some 1410 stuff. Was able to find it without me even telling him my name. He looked it up, its due for delivery today. I then spent 25 minutes asking him questions that he answered completly. Even gave me tips on how to machine some of the stuff to work. If any of you guys are going to make a long travel, I would use them for parts or the entire shaft.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1020076
Kloggers prettier twin sister.
F' that radius armed ball joint 60 pile of parts. Granted his fab is better than mine, but the klogger will out wheel that thing any day. I was going to do a radius arm thing similar to what he did, and for the time the leaf springs took, I am glad I went the way I did.
And don't forget, Klogger Kab Version 3.0 is coming in 2013!
Give me a call if you want a hand.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
Certurion conversion this time?
That would be awesome if it had a full size bed/ fold down back seat like my dads old truck.
Got my driveshaft made. Picture here shows the parts, Starting from top right, going left 1) 1350 weld yoke, 2) piece of 2.750" 0.250" wall DOM tube, I had to ID bore the tube on my Dad's lathe to make it fit the yoke, 3) Splined sleeve that I turned the OD and cut in half, this acts as the bushing between the tube and splined shaft. I welded the splined yoke to this piece and then this piece to the tube.
Next middle level is the Neapco shaft (part 4) and sleeve (part 5) listed in posts above. The splined section is 25" long, the sleeve is 6", it is made on the far left side to fit a smaller tube, but I used the larger diameter and turned it to fit in the tube.
Bottom row: 6) more of the 2.75" X 0.250 tube, I had to turn the OD down on the end of this, the wall was like 0.180 when I was done finally 7) is a 1410 weld yoke, I bored the ID on the mill to fit the OD of the turned section of tube.
Finished product, at ride height 39.25" long with 7" up travel slip, 10" down travel slip, 1410 yoke on T-Case side, 1350 on axle side. Welded together on the highest setting my mig will go to.....Attachment 19331
Pretty slick! So under $200 for all of it?
Ha! under 200 for the slip shaft and sleeve....Quote:
Originally Posted by davido
You know you wouldn't need that **** if you just put a proper suspension under it.
I am pretty sure proper suspension will not fit under the giant Ford cross member, I had to clearance it a lot for hydro-assist.
TTB? :confused2Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
Quote:
Originally Posted by davido
King Krew Kab Klogger?
Parts available for a price, axles doubler, driveshaft and winch already have a home.
Brand new steering box, strong running 351 with complete harness and acc., NP435, clutch pedals, fuel tank with pump, Chevy springs in the front, F-350 rear springs, etc.. Plus I have an extra crew cab body, I have 8 doors behind my house and a front clip for a 90 ferd.
Say it ain't so
Rest in pieces old friend....
We had some good times...
Crazy!