just looked at the pics again, and damn do those 35's look small on it now.
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just looked at the pics again, and damn do those 35's look small on it now.
Looks good. :beer:
A tree branh or one really funky rock is the only way to get to that corner of the fender (kinda hard to tell from those pictures though). The tire should keep most everything out from the bottom side.Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
all finished
with fresh paint it looks almost photo shopped. as always. progress is good
It looks good, but how is it going to take an impact? Is it tied in anywhere but the bumper and back by the door? I guess if you laid it on a rock it would slide.
alright tcc breakage rundown. First off is the twisted rear driveshaft. Then I found out that the amc 20 took a beating. The passanger tube is bent upward by over an inch. Instead of fixing it I'm going to go this route.
Ford 9" housing narrowed to EB width, 35 spline spool, 4.86 gears, strange case, d-60 spindles, moser full floating shafts, d-60 disk brakes. It should be all done by the end of next week (hell, it has to be so I can drive to work)
pics of broken cr*p
heres some more super sh*ty pics of my solution to the arb air pump buring out at tcc. I'm going to run the solinoids directly off co2, so i rigged up a port in the dash and a t-manifold with the two solinoids.
why full float? it seems like alot of extra money for little advantage? and alot more weight
make sure you truss the top of the 9 too
I'm buying one that is already built this way. It is missing brakes though so I'll put those on.
sweet, alright great reason then
on the ARB air, i would make sure and put a pressure regulator behind there because I believe that more than 90 PSI will blow the seals
I thought they needed to be regulated even more than that, I think casey uses his at like 40. the less pressure u use the less it will smell like gear oil in the interior
it is closer to 10 psi, when he "tested" it out at TCC they regulated it down to 10 and they worked.
i would still put another gauge on there
the pumps regulator shut it off at 30 so thats what i'm going to run them at.
Description
Dorman 615-134 Axle/Spindle Nut
Dorman 615-134 Axle/Spindle Nut Features:
• Type: 15
• Thread: 2"-16L
• Hex Size: 3"
• Height: 3/4"
• Application: Ford Truck Repair
• OE#:
• Brand: Dorman - AutoGrade - Boxed
Still slowly working on this thing when I come into town. Found out the axle was not from a 70s E-250 like the owner told me but from a 87-90 E-350 Econoline non club wagon either custom or xl trim. Which is the reason by the ballistic fab disk brake brackets didn't work. I'll be getting ruffstuff ones instead.
Also took off the yj master and will be replacing with 68 corvette from manual 1" bore. I think it will bolt up to the yj booster but have not confirmed that yet.
Also took off the stock proportioning valve and lines. Will be running the front straight from the master, and while I'm at it I'm going to run the front lines like the rear (one soft line down to hard line on the axle). The rear will be dialed in with a willwood proportioning valve I picked up at Smiley's in Dallas.
Jeep "to do" list. . .
Brakes
-finish install front hard lines
-buy/install rear pads
-install new rear brackets
-remove old rear brackets
-buy/install front soft lines
-bleed
-tune prop valve
Transmission
-fix shifter cover
-fill with gear oil
-install new trans cover/boot
Rear axle
-buy/install pinion guard
-buy/weld truss
-install new bearing nut on driver side
-possibly swap gears?
Cross member
-remove old
-build/install new
Transfer case
-bend shifter to clear CO2 fitting
Engine
-buy/install new battery
-install new contour electric fan/shroud
-remove old fan
Front axle
-build new 609?
-re-gear front to 4.88, 4.56, 4.10?
Good thing the deadline is clayton
axle shots
new disk brake brackets, needed that bend to clear rotor
new contour dual fans
What are you doing to control the fans?
Oh and step away from the black spray paint.... :flipoff2:
I haven't decided. I'm thinking of having one fan run continuously and the other on a temp probe.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Be-Cool-Radiat...53117/10002/-1
Use the 'hottest' two (195 and 210). If you run one continuously, the engine thermostat should keep the engine warm enough to run correctly but that is alot to ask of your alternator and battery. With some thought into the switches, you can set them up to be turned off in water crossings or both on if needed.
...
those adj temp probe sensors are not the best. they use air. The probe into the water jacket would be better...in the head better yet.
But a cuba libre is a rum and coke... Oh now I get it....Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
Now back on topic. With the resistors set up like that does it not kick one fan on and then another, does it instead run the fans slower by going through the resistor and then when the high temp switch goes in it bypasses the resistors. Seems like a pain in the ass.
I put a fan on the klogger and bought the cheap control switch, I used no relays and it worked. I did put a resetable breaker on the power side. I also put the temp probe in the water neck of the radiator, but it would leak a little.
Anyone have a diagram of np435 cover with the shifter forks and shift rails/pins. Couldn't find on of the shifter cover on line.
you should just use two relays and turn the fans on one at a time. Just make sure that you put your steering cooler infront of the fan that comes on first.
I think on Ed's I had to use a 5 prong relay to shut it off but I could have gotten around that with a diode. I don't remember exactly but it works.
68 corvette master, 91 yj booster.
Had to grind the piss out of the master to get it to sit in the booster. But no harm done.
Willwood prop valve for rear brakes.
Not to be a dick, but what is wrong with the stock stuff???
Also I don't see any circles of brake tube. I have heard there is actually a reason for this.
don't work with 4 wheel disk. tried the yj stuff (which is what I had before) didn't push enough fluid. This should.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
I have heard the same about the spirals of line something about residual pressure. I'm just lazy and think it'll work without them.:flipoff2:
I think it's for movement between the body and the frame. This has been discussed on here before as has the fan wiring crap.
Pretty much how the cruiser is setup. A 3 way switch for off/low/high or in this case off/1 fan/2 fans, etc. Then 2 relays and resetable circuit breakers just in case. So easy a rowdy could do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
I went this route. . . http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...mpressor+Works
Both fans are controlled by it so it's all on or nothing. We'll see how it works out.
The flexalite controller had a temp probe like that one where you put it in the fins of the radiator. I hope you can get it to work right for you, but my money is on 'not'. Make sure to put it as close to the 'inlet' on the radiator as possible.
Flem measured the difference between the old and new master and concluded that the pushrod needed to be lengthened by 1/8", so with that done we'll have to see how it ends up.
got to drive the jeep today, took it to the open house.
Fan controller works great, need to tune the prop valve some more. But all good so far.
The list is significantly shorter.
Transmission
-install trans cover/boot
Rear axle
-buy/install pinion guard
-buy/install truss
Cross member
-remove old
-build/install new
Transfer case
-buy/install 4:1, 32 spline input/output
-bend shifter
Tires/wheels
-remove 35s
-buy/install 37s
Front axle
-re-gear front to 4.88
EDIT: The 4.88s are freakin great, going 35mph down welborn the speedo reads 64mph. Sweet!
i have a few spedo gears, figure out which one you need i might have it
36 tooth
i have a 34, that will get you closer or maybe close enough
Got the 4.88s and install kit in today for the d-30. 4wheelparts was having a sale so got it shipped for $210. Install to follow
4.88 on left, 3.73 on right
what axle are those for. that is a weak pinion right there