or tie into the diff cover some how
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or tie into the diff cover some how
Yep, that would work too, AND give you a good excuse to get a heavy duty diff cover from greatlakes, ruffstuff or whoever. :D
I think it will break again. you need to take the leaf packs apart leaving only the main leaf and cycle the rear suspension. then you might be able to find an arc for the traction bars that might not bind so bad. my bet is you really need to have the bars parallel rather than triangulated and the front mounting point much lower.
I agree i think that it is binding, my truss is not tied in that much more but I am sure that it will be strong enough
Already working on a pinion brace/collar that ties into the truss for added support. After I get it rolling I will cycle the suspension and make any needed adjustments, there's room to work with on the heims. Won't know until I try it out.
Removed the drum brackets and started on mocking up the caliper brackets, ran out of time this weekend. They'll be positioned forwards to allow the bleeders to function properly without having to remove the caliper. Need to pickup pads first though, I'll finish it up next time.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown016.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown017.jpg
grind off the stock perches!
You don't have a stroker under the hood though. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
Oh, and a stroker in the driver's seat don't count neither. :flipoff3:
Rear disks finished, new front spring shims in, trans should be ready after spring nationals in baytown next weekend.
Test flexed the rear suspension (granted this was without a trans and t-case). The new springs are alot better, no more inverting. The anti-wrap setup cycled fine without any binding, just have to see once I take it for a spin.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...5/DSC_0056.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...5/DSC_0061.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...5/DSC_0062.jpg
In the above pics I didn't max out the suspension as the hoist wasn't liking it. There's still a little more travel left.
Forgot to mention the difference in ride height. With the new leaf's it's currently sitting level, if not a little higher than the front. Once the weight of the trans, t-case, skidplate, etc... are added the springs will settle a bit more.
Before...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...05/cage348.jpg
After...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...5/DSC_0067.jpg
interpreted:flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapJeep
looks good!
Picked up the transmission this afternoon. I forgot how much fun it is to install a th350 by yourself... About to head back out to the shop to put the stak in, then on to hooking up trans/tcase shifters, install floor, etc... Should be ready to rock tomorrow.
Drop it on your head? :flipoff2::laughing:
Surprisingly no but I do remember the event you're referring to...:D
Thrashed pretty hard today... As usual, doing stuff like this alone sucks but playing metal/rock really loud helps to pass the time and melt faces.
Transmission, T-case, shifters, cooler lines, etc...all installed. I'll get the trans tunnel/cover in, t.c. bolts in, and adjust the brake pedal tomorrow.
Brake pedal/master cylinder mount I made to help keep the firewall from flexing.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...5/DSC_0170.jpg
Couple of pics from today.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...5/DSC_0173.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...5/DSC_0174.jpg
Got it all back together today. Ran it for a couple minutes before bleeding the brakes, then it decided not to start up again. Found the spark plugs to be fouled, I'll pick up a set tomorrow and get it rolling again.
It lives once again!
Got it running and driving yesterday before heading back to CS. Front wheel burnouts are fun.
Swapped out the plugs and increased the gap for a tad longer spark. Fired right up and run's great. Made a couple of adjustments to the stak shift linkage which was getting hung up and added a few more quarts of b&m trick shift atf. After bench bleeding the master cylinders, new rear brake lines/fittings, rear disk conversion, extending the m.c. plungers, new pedal/m.c. mount, etc... I was still having issues. With a deadline to make TCC and still having school priorities I loaded it up on the trailer and dad dropped it off at Bill's shop yesterday evening.
They're fixing the issue with the master cylinders, new rear driveshaft, extending the front driveshaft, fixing the oil leak coming from the rear of the intake manifold, and a couple other small details.
Overall I made a huge amount of progress for working solo this weekend but just ran out of time.
Fouled plug
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown024.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown028.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...akedown037.jpg
Loaded up...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...edown047-1.jpg
looks like it is running a little rich looking at that plug
Yes, that would be a fairly obvious plug reading. :D
I had added more fuel and increased the idle to keep it running on the trail. After changing the plugs I leaned it out a bit. Fuel injection is on the way...
you know you can by a fairly new fuel injected engine out of the junkyard for less than $1000. The come in the form of a Chevy 5.3 or 6.0. I can show you a few j-yards that have them lined up in rows as far as you can see... Heck they even come with a warrenty and parts are a dime a dozen...Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapJeep
This talk turns me on! I must have sex with this scott!Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
like he said, they are lined up as far as the eye can see...pick the one you like and start f*cking!
I try to keep you happy, just let me know when you want to come down:eek::rainbow:Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
I was quoted $750 for a 5.3 a couple years ago before starting over.
Ricky, the guy that built the transmission, mentioned he was interested in my 383 for a hot rod/drag car and gave me a couple leads on finding a gen IV engine. I have been considering it since it wouldn't take many changes to make the swap. I guess the 383 holds a certain sentimental value since I built it myself.
We shall see after TCC...
do it, do it, do it.... Don't waste your time putting fuel injection on an engine that wasn't built for it...Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapJeep
aren't those new edelbrock setups pretty easy and bullet proof nowadays? (if you wanna keep th 383) pricey though...I think they are over 2k
cheap
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-...Q5fAccessories
It'll need different injectors for a 383, ford motorsport's are the best deal for new ones
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1988-...Q5fAccessories
I probably have a computer, you'll need a v8 chip for a 90 to 92. Stock if you can find one, but the bullchit hyperjunk chips can be rewritten for a 383. I think GM still sell the stock ones.
scott, find me a LQ4.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/01-07...QQcmdZViewItem
I've see several Escalades come thru with them. Not hard to find locally. When I ask "how much for that Escalade engine - complete" they typically say $1200 or slightly more
Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
"Ooh, that's a peach, hun!"
How do you get that much oil on the outside of an LS based motor?
you roll it - ask me how I know...
I dig the diagonal switches
i got to rebuild and swap a axle, rebuild the top end of my mota, lift, brakes, steering, tires, wheels, etc on my rig before TCC, reckon i can drop it off at bills shop too?Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapJeep
:flipoff2:
also, you can spend thousands on a 383 stroker and a StaK but a few hundred on fuel injection is suddenly out of the realm? spend some money where it counts.
Thanks, props to my dad on the switch layout. I talked to him today and got a status update on the BarnBurner.
The reason I kept having problems with the brake system was because I was running two master cylinders into a proportioning valve, mistake on my part. This caused the m.c.'s to fight each other and back-flow as pressure was applied. The wilwood pedal and master cylinders have been replaced with a badass pro-stock pedal/single master cylinder assembly.
Bill checked the triangulated 2-link anti-wrap setup I designed and found that the geometry was off...as one would guess. :D The truss I built has been retained but an adjustable wishbone setup is now in place. I'm not exactly sure on how it's designed since this was all described by my dad over the phone. I used the fel-pro intake manifold gaskets when I built the 383, the rear valley gasket was leaking. It's being resealed with rtv this time which should remedy the problem.
Driveshafts.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...414091415a.jpg
Houston Drivetrain built a new rear driveshaft and fixed the front.
Yes and your rig is here in CS, mine however is not...Quote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
I'm glad to hear that you are actually building something/starting to wheel. I was beginning to think you're only purpose here was to talk.:D:flipoff2:
no that's me :DQuote:
Originally Posted by CheapJeep
And me! :pQuote:
Originally Posted by uglyota