Random Tech Questions

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Originally Posted by F1504x4

So i read this article the other day with a project that they ut an intake and an exhaust on to measure the hp gains, and basically they had a gain with both on individually, but when both were installed there was a gain but not as much as with the intake only..they took it somewhere where they reprogrammed the cpu and managed to get a huge hp gain from having both installed, is there any place in CS that could do this? i really dont want to go out and buy the $300-$400 programmer for my truck..

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I dont know if there is a place to do this in CS, but there are usually certain companies that specialize in a specific make/model, you pull the computer and send it to them, tell them your set-up, and they give you a flash. S look for a place that specializes in Fords online, or I am willing to bet you kind find one in Houston, Dallas, exc.

OBDII computers will only compensate so much more fuel over stock, hints large individual gains, but low gains together. You could do a map clamp. (basically an adjustable resistor that tricks your computer to think that the air comming in is hotter or colder than it really is, is adding more or less fuel.) But its half ass, over time the computer figures it out anyway.

I don't really believe gains from most "chips" anyway, I think the only way to really get good results is to do a reflash or run a piggyback/standalone ems.

yea i was lookin at some standalone ems and i found a few that give me the tuning i want and the ability to adjust the speedometer and odometer for larger tires

I think standalone might be a little over-kill for what your doing so far. Re-flash.

Anywhere local to get 1 1/2" OD poly bushings?

maybe that ****ty accessory place on main street across from praxair or botco. I'll stop in on my way home and ask

For futurer reference the energy suspension part number for a general use 1 1/2" OD bushing kit is 9.9489. It comes with two bushing sets with inner sleeves.

And if you have some other one-off need....

http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/univ1.html

nice find!

http://tamor.org/forums/showpost.php...&postcount=118

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Originally Posted by uglyota

http://tamor.org/forums/showpost.php...&postcount=118

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the summit links only take me to their homepage

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-3-2124R/
this is a different part number than Sharpe came up with so buyer beware

and http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EXP-69261/ this is the explorer pro-comp set that I have used

didnt have time to stop by, had to haul ass to campus to park and walk to thompson before 5. maybe tomorrow.

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Originally Posted by 85cj7

need a little advice.

I have a chance to buy a yj and flip and sell it fast with profit.

Here are the specs.

1987 YJ
Bad Soft Top
Good leather interior
No lift, stock wheels/tires
Stored in barn for last 3 years, will run with new battery
Leak in radiator
AMC 2.5L I4 about 70K miles
BA 10/5 5 speed manual transmission
Dana 30 front
Dana 35 non c-clip rear
NP-207 x-case
Fair Paint, straight body no damage
$600

Fix the leak, throw a battery in it, cheap used tires, clean the crap out of it and make the paint shine. Put it on the market for $2000. What do you guys think? Would you do it?

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Ok got some more info. Guy wants $1000 firm. Here are some pics. Still do it?

I'm not a jeep fag, but I say no because for 1000 there is a **** ton of better deals to turn.

How could it have good interior and a bad soft top?

If you don't want it, send me some contact information. I've got something I could do with it.

All depends on what your time is worth.

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Originally Posted by BroncoJo

I'm not a jeep fag, but I say no because for 1000 there is a **** ton of better deals to turn.

How could it have good interior and a bad soft top?

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If it was truly garage/barn kept, then it's probably pretty decent.

Looks comparable to that smittybuild POS that JB has had such bad luck with.
http://www.4x4rockshop.com/Scripts/p...dproduct=16217

which reservior do you think does the front and which one the back. Aren't they usually switched (front reservior-back brakes)(rear reservior-front brakes).

does it really matter if you have disc's front and rear?

is it progressive?

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Originally Posted by Graystroke

is it progressive?

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Holy ****, can you not leave politics out of this even one time??? :flipoff2:

What year model and make does that reservoir come from?

1968 corvette master, non power brakes.

Looking into the reserviors the front is slightly larger than the rear, so I would think it is direct (front to front) (rear to rear)

I am pretty sure it is front to front on mine, that's how I thought all of them were.

the yj one is reversed and for some reason I remember a pirate thread saying that when you convert to corvette you should swap the lines, insinuating that it is direct (front to front, back to back).

How much is too much- metal shavings in tranny. I did a filter and drain/fill on the dodge yesterday. I have been getting some serious slipping lately. The magnet had a good gunk layer around it, maybe a half a shot glass full, and then there were some shavings that I could see in the bottom of the pan when I was cleaning it out.

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Originally Posted by texasxj

How much is too much- metal shavings in tranny.

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I don't think it matters. Don't they replace the same parts on a rebuild if you do it now or wait for it to stop working?

Polk Atrium 45: Seems like the best value on upper-end outdoor speakers. Opinions?

How hot is too hot for a shock? F150 has seemed quite loose in the rear lately around the jobsite and alot loose on a dirt road yesterday. Shocks are Bilstein 5100 series with maybe 80k miles on them. No signs of leaking, but were quite warm to the touch near the top of the housing, close to where the cylinder goes in. Seems to be acting this way since I had some weight on the assend pullingthe ZJ to Spring.

When the rear end's loose, the truck is fast. Loose is fast and on the edge of out of control!:D

80k is enough to replace shocks in my opinion.

edit: esp. considering how much towing and offroad use that truck has seen.

a bilstein will feel hotter due to being a monotube, if it is hot it is doing it's job. if there is any oil around the top seal or it has lost its nitrogen it could need replacing but I have seen bilstein oem shocks go way further than 80k.

Anyone in CS have the pipe tap for installing hydro-assist lines on a steering box? Is it just 1/2" that most people use?

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Originally Posted by afroman006

Anyone in CS have the pipe tap for installing hydro-assist lines on a steering box? Is it just 1/2" that most people use?

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i have one, but if i remember correctly you might need two because you have to cut one down since the place you tap is not deep enough for the tap

we have a full one and a modified one that you need so you can get complete threads, the uncut one doesn't taper fully before the tap botoms out so you really need 2. i have both, well ones brians and ones mine but whatever

So does that mean I have to suck both your dicks to use them or what?

Thanks for the new Signature! :laughing::laughing::laughing:

just come and get them

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Originally Posted by FJAggie07

Thanks for the new Signature! :laughing::laughing::laughing:

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noice!

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Originally Posted by uglyota

220 extension cords/adapters. The picture shows what I'm trying to do, and I think all I have to do is make sure the neutrals/grounds match up but want to make sure.
My stove outlet is the only 220 in the house for now. It's that goofy 50A NEMA turkey-foot looking plug and I want to plug my extension cord into it and have the other end standard dryer-plug style. Can I just match the round prong on the dryer plug end to the middle prong on the turkey foot end and I'm good to go? My only worry is that the descriptions keep referring to the round prong on the dryer style as Ground and the middle prong on the NEMA style as Neutral.
The next conversion is to go from dryer plug to 20A NEMA but I am pretty sure that's easier...the round ones are both ground, other prongs are each a leg of hot.
And since my extension cord has 4 wires in it, I would want to double the neutral/ground, right?
Anything else to worry about?

edit: going from NEMA 10-50 range outlet (2 hots and neutral) to NEMA 6-50 (2 hots and ground) to Nema 6-20 (2 hots and ground)
http://tamor.org/forums/attachment.p...1&d=1235418227

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followup on this:
Didn't run an extra ground, and everything works as I had hoped. Made a pigtail from the compressor NEMA 6-20 to the standard smileyface NEMA 6-50 on the female end of my extension cord, and put a NEMA 10-50 male on the other end, connected hot to hot and doubled up the ground/neutral. Motor spins, compressor compresses, the Rocket compressor is a bad dude. Think I should be able to run any 220 accessory like this but since my welder is 110 I shouldn't have to.

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Originally Posted by tigweld

a bilstein will feel hotter due to being a monotube, if it is hot it is doing it's job. if there is any oil around the top seal or it has lost its nitrogen it could need replacing but I have seen bilstein oem shocks go way further than 80k.

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It is like a hopping feeling in the rear of the truck when driving on a loose or graded road. I guess it could be the springs. I would just say **** it, but my CO trip is coming up and its going to be seeing plenty of rough roads.

I guess pulling them off and seeing if I can compress them easily is what I should do. Damn apartment living.