Do it right the first time
Printable View
Do it right the first time
I had to change driveshats going from aod to zf, but that was 2wd
I had the centerforce clutch (clutch and pressure plate afaik...not sure why you're ordering them separate) in front of the mazda 5 spd on my 95 F150. It was a great clutch, and took a beating over several years of highway and mudding, and a couple trips to llano river. It was a bit tighter than the stock clutch, but I wouldn't call it "on/off".
Whatever goes in is staying until after college at least. My truck is standard cab short bed with a weak 5.0 so the transmission shouldn't see much abuse.
You mentioned you were going to get a master/slave set up from the junk yard, if not you need to put that on your list plus the hose that goes in between them (the hose is like $30 at O'reilly's)Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
For my money, I would just buy a pressure plate and clutch from O'reilly's, it's easier to take back if it is wrong and probably cheaper. BDR had a good experience with his centerforce, but I have heard of people having problems. I myself would do not think they are much better and just more complicated.
As for the M5OD vs the ZF, the ZF is obviously the stronger and better trans, it will have steel synchros for first where the Mazda will be brass. Another thing to consider is the Mazda has an internal clutch slave cylinder where as I believe the ZF is external, this means if it goes out the ZF you can just change, the mazda you have to pull the trans.
The mazda trans I had was fine. I rebuilt it once cause I lost second gear, which turned out to be unnecessary because it just needed a shifter bushing. Since I already had the trans out, I went ahead with it. For all the beating I had done the brass on the synchros still looked new. I would have been comforatble wheeling that trans a lot longer.
For the price a ZF goes for I could never justify the swap. Since you're buying a trans anyway, you could go either way.
Couple other things from Karl's post...
Don't get junkyard clutch master/slave. You'll just end up kicking yourself when you replace them early. It's just not worth the few bucks you save. ESPECIALLY don't get a used slave if you go with the mazda trans. A new interal slave is worth the cost versus having to drop the trans again.
I did have good luck with the Centerforce. That being said, when I rebuilt the trans I went back with a LUK brand clutch. There a bit cheaper and I'm told they make Centerforce's clutch plates anyway.
The Centerforce 'Dual Friction' is what I had with the 350, and it was very hard to keep it from being an 'on/off' switch at times. The Centerforce II I have behind the 454 now is much better. Easier pedal and not nearly as 'grabby'.
I don't know what the cost difference would be between an O'Reilys and Centerforce to say if the cost would be justified in the increased quality. For a tired, small'ish' engine, I don't know that I would spend the extra on the centerforce unless it was very close in price to the parts house brand. The way that I 'build' things is way off base with everyone else doing the vast majority of the work for me nowdays, as it's much easier to drop an order at summit than head to the parts store to grab stuff. :D
I guess I'm looking at rebuilding the E4OD. I'm going to order a service manual for the transmission, and a rebuild kit from somewhere. I was looking at the TCI kit, I read some posts on different forums saying their stuff was good with the diesel crowd of E4OD users. Anybody have any other suggestions? I already have an almost brand new torque converter that I'll be trading in on warranty when I have the transmission out just so I can have a brand new one with no dirt from sitting at my farm for 6 months. I don't think I'm going to do any of the regular upgrades people do with the E4OD except maybe a solenoid pack and a shift kit.
What happen to the 5-speed swap?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
I have a C6 or sale if you don't need OD
John see the 4 sale section I replied to you.
NevermindQuote:
Originally Posted by JB
I'm tired of chasing them. They are out there but it seems like every time I find one, I can't get to it fast enough and it's sold. I eventually want to swap to a 460, so I'll just do a 5 speed swap then.Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
Anybody know if anything else would be required for a rebuild if I got this kit?
http://racerxusa.com//product_info.p...products_id=55
I'm also going to add a bigger cooler with new lines that sits in front of the radiator, an external cooler and a transmission temp gauge.
I just got my rebuild kit at the door. There are way more parts than I expected in the box. Anybody know an auto transmission shop that might charge me real little for them to use the three specialized tools you need for this transmission? I've read that they can be built but I'd rather have the right tool and get this done right.
If you wanted it done right you should have had one shop do the whole thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Well I guess I didn't want it done right, because I didn't use any specialized tools.
http://towrigsandtrailers.com/forum/...read.php?t=131
I'm thinking about going this route for disk brakes. Seems like it shouldn't be too hard. I'm going to start with a chevy caliper and print the diagram out and resize it so the holes are in the right place then the scale should be good.
Drum brakes work pretty good on a 8-9k pound f-350. I bet they will work lots better on your 6-7k truck. Seriously you can buy alot of brake pads for 4-5 hundred bones. Also, lots of people bitch about how crappy the e-brake on the eldorado calipers works.
I'm sure you know this as well, but you might end up needing to get a new/ adjustable proportioning valve as well.
I'm not using eldorado calipers, I've read too much about them leaking a lot. It'll probably cost less than 200 for this, maybe 250. I've also read and heard, that disk brakes are the best way to go on a sterling.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
If you are going to drive this on the street, you need to get it inspected. If you are going to get it inspected, you need an e-brake. Disk brakes work great and are easy but the e-brake situation is a pain in the ass. You can run a High Angle Driveline t-case e-brake but depending on what you already have, that could cost up to $500 (output flange, e-brake shiz, and driveshaft flange yoke). I would stick with drums unless you budget in a t-case e-brake.
My Sterling drums sucked and getting them wet or muddy made them not last long. Rear discs and the 1 ton booster was one of the best mods I have done. I bought the kit and am pretty sure I didnt spend near $500. Havent touched them since.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
On the flip side, Cook still has drums and says he has had few problems.
E-brake is going to be your issue.
The klogger has a sterling, it sees a lot of water/mud. It does not have the auto adjust stuff in it anymore. Every trip I go turn the starwheel with a screw driver and have no issues. I have had the same pads on there for about 3 years. (granted this equates to 200 miles of driving....)
I'll get it inspected with the 8.8 then I have a year if I do it on time to figure out an e-brake. I have a line lock sitting in my tool box, I know you aren't supposed to use them for long periods, but would it suffice for an inspection or do you have to have a mechanical e-brake?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
It technically is supposed to be mechanical but finding someone to pass it with a linelock probably wouldnt be too hard.
Finding places to pass janky stuff is getting harder and harder to find these days so keep that in mind.
Take my advice and keep an emergency brake for as long as you are going to drive on the road. I cut the cable going to mine when I went SOA because it was hindering flex. For three years I had to beg people to drive with me down to their buddies shops and friends of friends type situations to get it passed. It sucked and took way too much time and effort. Now of course I am an antique vehicle so I don't have to worry about inspections but that's my two cents.
quicker sticker would pass it with a line lock.
I'm pretty positive that TxDPS requires it to be a mechanical emergency brake but some mechanics will pass it with a line lock. Not supposed to but I guess they see no harm in it while others stick to the book.
you still have to pass the safety inspection.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
"Vehicles registered as "Antiques" are exempted from the annual inspection. To see the restrictions on the use of antiques or to obtain more information on how to register your vehicle as an "Antique", see the TxDOT website."Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
No inspection, I just have to re-register it every 5 years.
Austin got the frawg with a bungie cord putting tension on the factory lever. It is standard and didn't roll on flat ground so they passed him.
Let's keep this on topic
Certainly Antique license plates could not be considered on topic in a thread about a 93 model pickup?!
I hate that placeQuote:
Originally Posted by JB
Did they not pass your JK?Quote:
Originally Posted by Deluxe
Ehh long story short is I called and asked if it mattered if my doors were on before I came up there, otherwise I'd put em on. They told me no it didn't, no problem. Of course, I get up there and the manager starts bitching at me that I took off the doors because illegal tint. He didn't just say he couldnt pass it, he sat there and literally argued and accused me that my tints were illegal and how I should go get my doors and come up there to try amd pass them. Even asked him why id tint my fronts darker than my hardtop and he was like we both know your fronts are illegal, otherwise you wouldnt have the doors off( on a 70 degree day). I told him I'd go get them and take it somewhere else :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by MR.ZAP
You can't even have tint as dark as your hardtop on the fronts. I can't remember what the percentage is for "legal" front window tint, but it is lighter than you'd think and for some reason, inspection stations have started to be real pricks about this. I'm a bit worried about my Tahoe coming up on inspection in April. The front windows are just as dark as the back ones.
As far as Quicker Sticker goes, that place used to rock. I used to take my camaro there to get it inspected. I would tell the guy that I preferred that he didn't drive my car, and he'd said, "Cool, take me for a ride."
my 04 has the front windows tinted to match the rears. Maybe 20%?? Thye past it no questions Oct 2010