Because that was so easy for you to do? :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
Printable View
Because that was so easy for you to do? :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
Not easy but really worth itQuote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
i know little to nothing about carbs, but your float could be stuck and thus not supplying fuel to the engine
And it doesn't matter if your filter is new. Bad fuel can clog a filter pretty fast especially if all you have is the one.
Do you have starter fluid? If you spray some down the intake and try to crank, does it begin to start or nothing? If it does not try to start you have a spark issue.
The fuel is maybe a couple months old. I don't think it's bad at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
I don't, but I know that I do have spark. When I work the throttle lever, the carb does not supply any fuel. This is a fuel/ carb issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
Un-do the fuel line at the carb, crank the engine and see if you get fuel out. You might have vapor locked it somehow.
How much fuel is in the tank right now? Put the main filter back in if at all possible. There was probably a reason the PO took it off, and that reason was more than likely NOT a good one.
It's got about 6 gallons in the tank. I'll go get another fuel filter for it tomorrow after I get everything with school and moving done today.
I undid the fuel line at the carb and cranked it, and nothing came out.
Is it possible I installed the fuel pump incorrectly? :confused:
see if the pump is creating vacuum on the gas tank side of it. unhook it and put your hand over it or something while starting the engine.
On these Broncos can you disconnect the fuel line at the tank and then use like a boat primer bulb to prime the line to the carb?
Ok, the arm on the fuel pump rides on a lobe connected to the timing gear. Make sure when you put the pump in that the arm is on the lobe, don't just stick it in there. When you put the arm on the timing gear the gasket surface where the bots go in should not fit right. You have to push it in there so the arm on the pump depresses and then bolt it on.
Was there fuel in the line when you took the old pump off?
Gotcha.Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
I'll probably wind up taking it apart and doing it over again... Seemed to fit a little too easily when I did it. Gonna get this done tomorrow, had a long day today
bronco runs
yay
The bronco has a BW T18 underneath it. The synchros are shot all to ****, and it's so trashed it refuses to even engage fourth gear anymore. Mechanically, the truck is solid other than this transmission, so it's time it gets pulled.
My options at this point are to replace it with a rebuilt transmission, roughly $600, replace it with a used tranny, $200-400, or pay to have it rebuilt. I'm not sure what the cost is on a decent rebuild, and I'm not about to try and do it myself since that would probably end in some cataclysmic hot-pocket failure.
I've been looking for some used transmissions online, but I don't feel like paying a few bennys to have it shipped from somewhere thousands of miles away. What are some good tranny shops in town that would have some used transmissions sitting around? What are some places I could look at to get an estimate on a rebuild? And finally, what should I be looking for in a replacement T18?
Now I know the T18 came in some FS Jeeps, but from what I understand the input shaft is a shorter length than the Ford version. Not looking to do a parts swap, just looking to find the right transmission. How can I identify the difference between the two? Also, the bellhousing of the transmission needs to match up to a 400. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the 400 BH the same as the 460 bellhousing?
:gigem:
I don't feel like writing a long response now. BUT you should seriously look into rebuilding it on your own. Old manual trans like that are super retarded stupid easy. I did so on my np-435 and swapped in a new mainshaft in the process and I think it took me a few hours. A complete rebuild kit for that should be very affordable. I ordered all my parts through these guys and some very hard to find plastic shift fork retainers. They were awesome to work with and do a great service. At least give them a call and see what they want for a rebuilt kit with synchros. http://www.standardtransmission.com/
It is an auto but I have a c6 and a b&m floor shifter burning a hole in my garage floor. Even a stout crossmember for a 205 if it puts it in a different spot.
Yo tengo un NP435 con bell housing
I have a NP435 with bell housing in Houston, $200, came out of a runningish 1982 Ford Bronco!
Wrong bellhousing Karl.
Right bellhousing, wrong engine.;)Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
I would almost bet that Hot Pocket could use his current bell housing and bolt it to this transmission.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
I'm saying the engine should be replaced as well.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
I'm just trying to sell a transmission.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
should not be an expensie proposition which ever way you go. i would rebuild the current one or put in a used one.
I don't want to swap to an auto or to a 435. I'd like to keep it T18 for simplicity purposes. I've heard a lot of people say these things are super easy to rebuild, but I've never done something like this before, and it's definitely not something I want to have to do myself.
Sack up and do it you puss.
Bring it to a work day at travis's, I'll help you rebuild it.
From what I understand they also sold the T18 in later model broncos (80s.) It was attached to either a 300, 302, or 351w. The bellhousing on all of those motors do not match the 400 I have, but is it possible to swap bellhousings? How much of a pita are we talking?
My NP435 bell housing can be swapped with 4 bolts....Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
buy a c6
True, but the transmission is a couple inches shorter and I don't want to deal with switching up the driveshafts. It would be easier to just find a T18 or rebuild what I already have.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
Are you sure about that?
a 435 is one inch shorter than a T18. If your driveshafts can't handle that, they don't have enough slip in them anyway.
I'm already pushin it with the stock driveshafts after the lift, so yes I'm sure
you are going to spend the same amount on a junk transmisson as a rebuild kit for yours. rebuild it and you know its not a piece of ****. are you positive you have a t18?
positive in three waysQuote:
Originally Posted by sasquatch
Trans code F means T18
All cast iron case is T18, 435 had aluminum top cover
length is equal to that of a T18
Bring it to travis's house one weekend. Do it while the dexter press is still there.
http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/t18_t19_parts.htm
Although I will talk good about Novak to anyone who will listen and I think they are a badass company who does great work, just order the rebuild kit through standard transmission in Fort Worth (link in above post). They will be much quicker on shipping, prob cheaper, and quality parts. Hell if you get a nice guy on the phone and chat with him for a while I bet they will give you some sort of deal. I got some parts for the np-435 shipped for free through them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
My 9" Pinion yoke is the culprit for the repeated driveshaft failure.
Missing an ear on the yoke. Going to replace the yoke, seal, maybe bearings too who knows
Be careful when tightening the yoke back down. Stock 9" use a crush sleeve to set pinion bearing preload. You can upgrade the crush sleeve to solid shims though. I would just change the seal/yoke and be done with it. If you change the bearings then the pre-load has to be re-adjusted. If you do go this route then go ahead and get rid of the crush sleeve for the solid shim.