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yeah, I hadn't seen one like it yet. Most of the fabricated housings I've seen had round tubes that were welded as a intregral part of the diff area. This one almost looks like it was fabricated, then had the tubes pressed inQuote:
Originally Posted by colman
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Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN
Yea, I meant to link that a while ago. I like the frontend and the mounts for the cage were unique.
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Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN
Maybe just trying to be different since diamonds are patented?
well it might be cheaper for someone building an axle to go that route, since they can source thier own tubes, and shipping would be alot cheaper
Before I reassemble the rear axle (it needs to be pulled out of the shop to make room to get the shafts back in), I'd like to weld up the diff. Now I just had it regeared, and it hasn't been broken in yet. Is there any reason I couldn't pull the carrier and ring gear, weld them up, then reinstall them? Would this throw the pattern off or anything like that?
if you get it to hot yes, as far as welding it. i do not know about the gear break in. I have always pulled the ring gear off when welding diffs.
Feck all that just weld them in place. Keep your ground close to your weld so you dont arc a bearing.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
Would removing the ring gear throw things off if I put it back on the same way it came off? Since there are no shims or anything, I would guess it would be the same, right? If nothing else it seems I'd leave the ring gear off, and spray some antisplatter stuff on it and be careful. As for overheating it, do most people reset the gears after welding the diff? I didn't think most did, so I figured it would be fineQuote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
I'd do it like that, but most likely I'm going to need to weld it someplace around here versus at home, and don't feel like pulling the entire axle for thatQuote:
Originally Posted by fbronco86
ive done both. i welded my rear carrier in place. just blacken the ring gear with a torch burning acetylene only and ground on the carrier. ive pulled a few ring gears off to put in lunch box lockers and reinstalled with no problems. just be sure to mark the ring and carrier so they go back together the same way. if you are stick welding i would definately pull the carrier. i didnt and it took forever to get all of the slag out of the housing.
I think I'm going to use Garrett's mig so that will help me avoid the slag problem. I'll most likely pull the ring gear for peace of mindQuote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
there still will be some slag. i usually have to pound the shaft lightly into the carrier to clean up all the splines. John good idea with the acetylene, i hadnt thought or that.
what size bolts does a 8000-9000 lb warn winch use to bolt down to the winch plate? I want to say they're 3/8s, at least on the M8000. And the standard winch bolt pattern is 10x4.5, right? Trying to plan out my front bumper, and want it ready for a winch later when I can afford one
I dont recall on my m12000 but I know its either 3/8 or 7/16.
3/8" and its not exactly 10". more like 10 3/16". at least on mine it was.
okay, I called up Mack to price some of the steel I needed, and ask them about tubing. The guy I talked to thought he had some in the diameter I needed, but said it was only .093 wall. He couldn't tell me if it was DOM or HREW. Hopefully he has a stick or two of something thicker, but if he doesn't, would there be any problems with me using the thin wall stuff in areas that may not see contact with rocks? I have 4 sticks of DOM, and hope to stretch that as far as I can, but if I could supplement the thin wall stuff in for things like the X braces on the main hoop, that would help
you cant call and ask for hrew or dom, just tell them you need 1.75" or 1.5" 11 gauge (.120" wall) ROUND TUBING, because thats all there computers say
I told him round tubing in 1.75, he said the heaviest thickness he had was .093. Hopefully he's wrong and they do have the .120 when I get there
He's probably talking about pipe. I've never known them to carry or even care to sell actual tubing.
Ask John Cox, that's his favorite place to go. :flipoff2:
They had DOM last time I was there, I seen it!! It looked to be .120.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
Interesting...
Just make sure you measure the actual od. Back in the day the guy that worked there liked to call uncoated pipe "tubing".
ask him to feel the inside. HREW will have a seam in it. .093 would be fine for interior peices. it'll actually save some weight. I thought about doing this but it was too easy to just get all .120". see what lengths they have then ask him to see how far up his arse he can get one of those sticks.
you need to go out there to find out for yourself what they have. unless they got some more, me and ryan bought most of it.
if anyone has some 1.75x.120 DOM or HREW left over they want to sell, let me know. It doesn't need to be a full stick
Hopefully they'll have the stuff I need up there when I get there. If necessary, I may pick up a stick or two of the thin wall stuff to use in non critical areas and for bracing. Barring any problems my new truck should be here the end of this week. As soon as I have that I'll go down to mack and see whats there
ive got a bunch of peices 6"-12" long ill let go for pretty cheap.
thats a little shorter than what I need
Back to cage design again. The first two pictures below are of a exo cage design I really like. I like how the main hoop (B pillar) is actually not a hoop like most people do, but several pieces connecting in node. This seems alot more easy to do then a hoop with 5+ bends, and hopefully fewer chances to **** up what tube I have.
What I intend to do is build the main hoop of the cage as a series of straight tubes connecting at a series of nodes. This should work whether I go with a internal cage, full exo, or hybrid. In the third picture is a drawing of what I intend to do. The green circles show where the nodes will be. The main tube for the top section will be the halo hoop running towards the front of the cab. All the other tubes will be connected to this. For the lower section, the tube running horizontally behind the seats will be the main tube, with everything mating to it. I will of course cap off any open tubes, and may stick a small piece of 1.5 inch tubing inside the main tube supporting the node, just to add a little more strength.
Like I said, I think this will be easier multiple bends, and allow me to get the cage closer to the body then a series of bends would. Other than looks perhaps, would there be any reasons that this would be a bad idea?
dude those nodes look like ass. Don't be scared to put multiple bends in a piece of tube, it's not that hard to get right, and it all looks crooked in pictures
here ya go...
200ft of 1.75"
http://www.fcfabrication.com/thumbnail.JPG
Holy **** how much weight did that add?
i'm going to exo my cab like that probably
not much, i used 6 sticks in my cage that i just finished which is 144ft, ide say each stick is 50#'s, so im guessing 200ft would add 400-450#'sQuote:
Originally Posted by FJAggie07
1.75 .120 wall tube weighs around 2.1 lb/ft according to this handy dandy materials book I have, so 420 lbs + however many pounds of weld and gussets.Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
ok.... thanks for clearing it upQuote:
Originally Posted by JeepPhisherman
Well aren't you just handy to keep around. Now shut up and get back to work on that SAS :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepPhisherman
the ones in the drawings do, but I like the way that cage looks. The guy who built that used that design on most of his cages, and I like the way all of them have turned out. As for the nodes behind the seats, you will never even notice those are there since then are hidden inside the body.Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
damn thats alot of tube. I do like how the rear is tied together with the tire carrier. I can't decide whether I should worry about carrying a fullsize spare. They're nice to have, but add alot of weightQuote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
I like exact numbers, not your estimated bull****, wigger!Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
Finally after another month I got to work on the 4runner again. I pulled the front axle back out to regear it and clean it up some. I also removed the body lift, dropping the 4runner 2 inches. Since I was pressed for time, I dropped the t-case mount down to the stock position, but after looking at how low it hangs, I think I'm going to pull my seats, cut out the floor and raise them back up. I also tried to relocate the steering box, but I'm going to have to molest some sheetmetal for that to happen. I would have tried doing this today, but my sawzall is on the fritz and I didn't have any thing else to cut with.
I do have a problem though. How do I get a carrier out of the axle? I wanted to pull my rear carrier so I could weld it up. I pulled the bearing caps, and there are no axle shafts in the housing, but the carrier will not come out, no matter how much I tried to pry it out. Am I missing something, or is there a trick to it?