8 lug dana 30Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
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8 lug dana 30Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
8 lug no, d-30 yes
Preliminary shot of the new front axle, full width Chevy narrowed to 63.5, crunched the numbers and it is 2.25" wider on each side than my rear axle. The pics look deceiving because everything is just loosely bolted together for mock it, so it will be narrower when bolted tight.
Looks good. Good turning radius :gigem:
damn, i wish that i would have used that axle but it would have been a while. better to get it to use and then get it back from you in a few years when you build your imaginary 609. or is that 609 like krebs buggy, never going to happen. ;)
what is that d44?
Yes, shortened Chevy 44.
its actually the d44 that came in my blazer
I made up my mind and ordered this. . .
http://completeoffroad.com/i-124127-...44-and-60.html
At first glance it didn't look cheap but after looking around tre were $120 bucks, tube inserts were $40, jam nuts $10, tubing was $10/foot, plus shipping charges. Got the kit with free shipping. So I think it's actually a pretty good deal.
yeah it looks good
what r you gonna do with your old steering, was it tre or heim
its tre, 1.5x.250 DOM, $150Quote:
Originally Posted by colman
I FINALLY got the parts in to finish the axle. Got R&P, carrier, bearings, and shims. Gonna send everything to J&P to set it up tomorrow to set up the gears. It's doubtful it will be done by early next week and near to impossible it will be done tomorrow by close. (But he said there was a chance). Gonna get the one ton reamer from JB tomorrow as well and do the knuckles and pitman arm.
On a side note, do people think this carrier will hold? I know nothing about how welded carriers should look. It's welded like this on both sides. Two passes for each section with Sharpe's Miller.
the only thing i have seen people add is a piece of square plate in there and welded all the way around, but that looks good to me
Weld the spiders to the carrier. I wouldn't trust that weld job in my rig.
yes, weld all side gears to carriers
What does it hurt to weld more. I have never been on the trail and heard someone say, man I wish I would not have welded this so much. I have heard the snap crackle pop of a broken weld.
To add to this when I weld a carrier it turns into a big ball of weld, and I have yet to have one break completely.
I also weld the hell out of them. Like you have there and sides and spiders to carrier. It's not the best steel for welding. Usually when I pull mine there's a crack or 2 in the welds, put that leaves another 8 or so welds holding and I've never had one let go. There are those here who have had one's like you've done there let go. Now that I think about it, when I originally welded the 20 in the scrambler I did as you did and it broke. Don't think it would make a full rotation but it was moving around.
CJ people, Kopecki, Coop,
What did you guys do for your pitman arm when you changed to one ton tres or heims. I think coop is running heims, Kopecki are you running one ton tres? Stock arm?
Got the axle back from J&P transmission, cost be $200 ($150 for install, $50 for bearings and seal).
Got it bolted in, shock mounts done, tie rod mocked up, driveshaft connected, outers on.
Eckert brought over a J10 box that I stole the pitman arm off of and reamed it out for 1 ton drag link.
Pics of Jeep, one cj pitman arm vs. new j10 arm, and cj TRE vs. new TRE.
i bet that gravel driveway is fun to work on.
I messed up when I said this, when I was measuring I was measuring the old vrs. the new front. So the new d-44 is 2.25" wider on each side than my old d-30. The front will be 1.75" wider on each side than the 609 rear. 63.5" WMS on Front d-44 and 60" WMS on Rear 609.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
Didn't have much time to work on this today. Got the pitman arm reamed, and the tie rod end that the drag link attached to reamed. I am going to have to run an inverved y setup because there wasn't enough room on the passanger arm for both 1 ton ends to ride without interfering with each other. Also got the tie rod and drag link burned in.
I sold some stuff from my old front, so far I have only spent $90 on the new front because of all the stuff I've sold to recoup the loss.
63.5 WMS sounds perfect
thats why i made the axle, to bad i never keep a toy long enough to use it. that was bolted under 3 of my jeeps before he got it
tear things up this weekend, just dont try to turn to fast wo hydro assist
DONE!
I also added a leaf to the front springs to level it out a bit. I love how it looks.
so how does it do on the road with the welded front end
hubs are unlocked and in 2wd, so no different than before. However, we'll see this weekend how it does in 4L, regardless I'm sure hydro-assist will be in the future.Quote:
Originally Posted by colman
looks good! can you notice that it tracks or steers different from the width?
Looks great man!
Glad you washed it or it least it looks like you did... Good thing, because spring creek isn't dirty at all.
not really, it isn't horrible, about what would be expected for eye-balling a driveway alignment.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
I had to wash off all the EPA friendly chemicals:gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
It won't be that bad to steer with 35's, that is what I have.
Well, everyone else is making a list, so...
- re-bleed brakes
- check all fluids
- shorten spare cv drieshaft
Installed a hand throttle and got it working right. However, created a bigger problem for myself.
Took the throttle body off to fix the idle adjustment screw and install/modify if for the hand throttle. When I did this I unknowingly introduced coolant into the upper intake plenum. I didn't know this but the throttle body attaches to the EGR plate which has coolant lines passing through, so when I seperated the two I dumped a good amount of fluid down the intake.
So needly to say when I turned the jeep over it locked up. Took the plugs out, cycled the sh*t out. Had to do it twice and replace the tbi to egr gasket. Waiting for the battery to charge (unknowenly left the lights on last night) to see if it'll start and if I did any damage.
Got it running again after cranking it for 25-20 seconds, it sounds fine but makes an a$$ load of smoke. I'll let it idle for 30min or so to hopefully work all the residual coolant out of the system.
thats good news.
disconnect the coolant lines from the throttle body, you dont need them