Printable View
FYI, I just got off the phone with Mad4wd, his customer service is pretty good. These arms were bought/shipped out about 8 months ago and he had no problems, with me shipping the arm I didn't need back and he would simply send me the double ended arm as long as I paid the difference in the double ended vs the single which was about $30 bucks.
His product is top notch, and his customer service is right on par, if you need some hi-steer arms make sure and check him out.
4 or 6 degree shims for the front axle, I thinking 6 degrees.
Also, does anyone know of a company beside diy4x that makes some adjustable front shackle hangers like this that aren't $170 bucks. I just need the bottom part that the springs bolt to. I know I can make some, but would like to buy them to save on fab time.
http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?rout...product_id=120
Also, I assume all sbc motor mounts are the same from year to year, ie 1979 vs 1990? Just wanting to make sure before I order my poly motor mounts.
i am not 100% sure, but i think there is a difference in motor mounts through out the years, it is either that or the first set i ordered were the wrong ones, i would check at a parts store to compare years just to make sure
I thought ORD had some adjustable hangers, not sure though.
Spent the last week or so of work time messing with the trans crossmember. This thing was a huge pain in the ass. If i had the whole process to do over I would have saved some more coin and got a stak or used atlas. I also bent the rear crossmember from 1.5" dom. I will get some better pics tomorrow once I grind some welds and slap some paint on it.
Just the picture, or does the 205 hang down pretty far?
I am guessing it's only ~2"s (or less) below the frame where it's at now.
What Ed said, the picture makes it look worse than it is.
More pics of the crossmember. Yes I know the piece of angle for the trans mount is not level. The whole doubler t-case/ trans seems to have a five degree tilt to the passengerside for some reason. I tried jacking the 205 up from its outside edge and it really did nothing for it. I had someone tell me this angle is to help with driveshaft clearance with the trans, but this seems a little excessive. The only thing I can think of is worn out motor mounts, but I tried to move the motor with a piece of pipe and it really doesn't seem to move that much. If motor mounts don't fix it then i dont know what it is and will run it.
speaking from experience i would brace the d-shaft hoop some more, it sucks when a crossmember is the reason you have to stop wheeling for the weekend
I agree, even if you have to notch the floor pan to get it to fit.
Might be able to brace it like this if you can find the room inside the frame.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...membercopy.jpg
Why would you add to more bushings? The factory x member uses one bushing, if you did it like ed's picture then I don't know how you would run exhaust or fuel lines. Plus the trans x member is going to be tied in to the rear doubler x member, along with a skid. The crossmember I made is 1/4 wall it isn't going to bend.
As far as the d-shaft hoop, the only thing I would consider doing is adding another large rib to the inside of it or a small one to the top, just to make sure it doesn't taco in the middle un supported part.
I know adding the extra bushings would take up a large amount of space but that 3/8" plate (?) just looks like a real weak spot with all that beef around it. Get some 3/4 or 1" plate to put on top of it and I will be happy. :gigem:
i think just double plating the top of the hoop would work, in my opinion it would be worth the extra pound or two so you do have to re do it later