you have some holes in your dash. you should put some **** in there or something.
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you have some holes in your dash. you should put some **** in there or something.
really.... are you shure
You don't need them
sucks
WTF is that a picture of?
novak np435 to d-300 adapter
yall need to learn how to properly brace transfer cases.
yeah i bet you had the 300 just hanging off the back
there is no probem having a d-300 unsupported in a cj, thats how they were stock and to support one is not necessary. Mine broke because my center pin on the pass. side broke, the axle pushed back and bottomed out the front d-shaft, which simultaneously stuck the trans in gear and cracked the adapter. I checked and it didn't do any internal damage to the r&p, transmission, or trans.
a d300 still doesn't need any additional support. if you do a doubler with one then you do but just the tcase on the back of the tranny is fine as is
agreed but that is still alot of weight hanging off the back of an aluminum adapter and I don't think that a CJ was designed to drop off of 3 and 4 foot ledges either. Plus it is easy to support
The reason people crack them is likely due to too much support than too little. I once supported mine too much, made red stuff come out. Couple aluminum welding rods later it was back together, and still is in my misc. scrap pile.
didn't get around to fixing the rear axle this weekend.
Did fix the d-44 cover. Put a sizable dent in it at clayton and can't afford a nice aftermarket one right now. So welded on a 3/16" strip.
Pic of the current state of destruction
Really sh*tty picture of the in-progess 'new' skid plate. It will be about 6" longer in the back and have an integrated anti-wrap bar mount. I'll get some good pics when its done.
In getting new wheels but have a question. I am going to run 4.25" BS wheels on the rear but have the option of running 2.75" BS wheels in the front to bring it in and make it closer to the width of the rear. Should I do it or run 4.25" BS on both front and rear. I don't know what the total width is on the tires now but WMS is 63.5" in front and 60" in rear.
stick with the 4.75 backspacing wheels
wider front end helps with turning radius, trucks come from the factory like that
yeah but too much back spacing on the wheels gives you a large scrub radius and makes it real hard to turn
Yep, the 2.75s would need to go in the back to even them out. With your short wheel base I would think your turning radius would still be very acceptable. It's just a matter of looks. Does the rear being narrower really make it look funny?
sorry ya, wasn't thinking. Your right it would be less backspacing in the back. Well I have 4.25s on the front now and like the way it looks. I might buy the 2.75s for the back to bring them out a bit more. The front would still be wider (not by much, 1/4" on each side) So I wouldn't be changing the width of the front, just making the rear wider. Any downsides to doing this?
since ur not worried about rotating then it really doesn't matter, run 2 different rims
Other than a pain in the ass when rotating tires, no. (and I really doubt you will be needing to do much rotating of your tires on this one. If you do like Scott, he just cuts one every trip so he keeps pretty new tires all around. :D )
no, I would just get wheel spacers i have some in the rear
since he already has to buy rims might as well get the ones that don't need the spacer since the spacers would be another hundred
Matching Bolt Pattern, 8x6.5 both Front and Rear. . . Finally.
Also, the new 37x12.5x15 MTRs. The Jeep will obviously come down a lot once it's back on it's own weight. Regardless the new tires fill out the wheelwells pretty well.
awesome too bad 8 lugs don't help hold your ujoints together
I don’t anticipate the stock shafts holding together. After talking to Garrett about his d-44 and MTRs I have come to expect that chromo shafts are a necessity, as well as hydro-assist. None of that will happen this year though. I won’t be wheeling it this year because of these known weak points. I don’t want to break anything before I might leave the country for a while.
*****, Dana 44 shafts are easy to find.
spares aren't easy to find for the long side. Stubs are easy (chevy) and short side is easy (chevy). Long side is wagonneer (can't remember if it's early or late). One is an inch longer than the other. Either CAN work if you chop an inch off the long year shaft, otherwise the shorter of the two is the perfect length.
yall are clowns. im with frick, 44 shafts are easy to find. buy a chromo long side inner if your worried about finding them. everything else is a dime a dozen.
maybe put in a open carrier in the front or a lunchbox?
Why are you worried about breaking it if you are leaving the country? Will you not be able to sleep at night over in Australia knowing that your jeep has a broken front shaft and will be sitting idle, even though it would still be sitting idle if it were intact?
Also tons of you jeep fags put 37's on 44's. Besides how many 30 front shafts did you break with the 30 and 35's?
garret's bronco is also heavier with a stroked motor
I broke one dana 30 shaft with little 32's... it is all about how hard you push it... tons of 44 shafts in bronco with 35's
none actually. I did have chromos though.
I'll be wheeling the jeep around town, HWY-47 and soggy bottom. But I'm going to pass on wheeling at TCC this year. I don't want to push the ford by towing with it before I sell the truck. Now, if I find a tow then thats a different story.