Wow. 450-500 miles a day assuming its 3 years old? That a lot of seat time
Edit. So that is from Feb., so 2.5 years old if it was new mid 2010. 550+ a day??
Is that doable? Damn. Assuming its done with the low pressure light?
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Wow. 450-500 miles a day assuming its 3 years old? That a lot of seat time
Edit. So that is from Feb., so 2.5 years old if it was new mid 2010. 550+ a day??
Is that doable? Damn. Assuming its done with the low pressure light?
He never started it. That mileage is only realistic in long haul. His seat looked worn but not 500k worn
Apparently he's some sort of owner operator hot shot driver and his mileage is updated on one of the diesel forums every so often.
Attachment 19487
Lets get this thread back on track. What kind of person does this?
I'll guarantee they own at least 4 flat billed hats.
On my 99 f250 I need replace the clutch. Was this a yr with the two piece flywheel? Also which clutch as far as a stock replacement is the best?
Luk replacement. If its stock it's a dual mass, if its been replaced before most likely it's a solid one as they are fairly cheap.
Go to Rockauto and search for LUK Part# 07155. It is the complete kit with included one-piece flywheel. When checking out use 158540758994485 in the "How did you hear about use line" to save 5%. It'll be at your door by Saturday and should run about $330.
Seems like a fair deal to me.
I don't want to start a rice war, but if anyone with a 7.3 ever wants a new tuner I recommend power hungry performance tunes. I just got some new tunes yesterday and they are awesome. Not much smoke and the transmission shifting is so much better than my old tunes.
If either of these ever happened, i think Ram could kiss their VM diesel sales goodbye. I personally would rather see it in the Toyota as i think the Nissan looks hideous...
The Nissan already has the green light and production has started on the 5.0 v8 cummins motors for the Titan. I think dodge **** the bed for not having a smaller cummins for their half ton and for being the first to release their engine specs leaving room for everyone else to pass it up.
source to confirm the rumors?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
its called vertical integration and someone always has to be the first... BTW, Dodge doesnt build anything with a Cummins in it...Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
"Ram" whatever. Sorry their trucks didn't sell well enough so they had to separate them from dodge.
I'll look for the thread I saw on the Titan. Someone works at a cummins plant and mentioned some info on it.
you lose credibility with each post you make...Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Huh?
looks pretty firm, production on the motors to begin in the 4th quarter of 2014 (cummins for nissan)
http://www.wibc.com/news/story.aspx?ID=2056521
2006 Chevy 6.6L Duramax
For the past week my truck has been hard to start when cold. It is fine when hot or and under all driving conditions. It is worse the longer it sits. Robbie heard what it does in Alto after sitting for two days. It cranks for about 10-12 seconds before firing up. I thought it was an electrical problem because the voltage is low (10-11volts) on initial start up but quickly rises to 14 volts after a minute or two.
I popped the hood and instantly smelled diesel fuel. The fuel filter is leaking and it is obvious. It is not leaking at the fuel filter fitting or the water in fuel sensor but instead is leaking at the small push in connector on top of the aluminum fuel filter housing with a red wire. I assume this is some sort of sensor? If I prime the pump by hand I can hear and see small bubbles rise up at the base of this sensor. What is this sensor and how do I fix this? I change the fuel filter religiously with WIX filters and did the last change about 2K miles ago.
Thanks.
It is leaking from the plug in sensor with the red wire. Seen here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-5-2013-...-/141030742673
Have you tried to search dieselplace yet? I've never heard of it leaking there before. I don't doubt you're going to be replacing the housing to 'fix' this. Let me know how that goes. Mine is a biatch to get to and want to relocate it or put in a set of inline cat filters one day.
I watched this and ordered a $20 o-ring kit that will be here on Wed.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9boIwwN-AHA
I will let you know how it goes.
Looks like wiring for the fuel heater.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-...r-leaking.html
In that thread they are saying you can replace an o ring to stop the leaking. Yes I know that's not the same engine you have but the ebay link to the filter housing says it's the same housing.
During my last swing in Australia mine would loose prime and when ever my dad or brother needed to borrow my truck they would have to re-prime the fuel system if it sat too long. Turns out the fuel filter was leaking air into the system, my brother changed that out and no problems since
The $20 oring kit will fix it right up. Mine was doing the same thing (for the last year) and I replaced the o-rings and I haven't had any problem. It is a really easy job and took me about 30 mins, maybe less.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
A cummins would never do that.
FYI, that is not a sensor it is for the fuel heaterQuote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
Sucks to suck
:laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
:laughing:
Well the pos250 will be upgraded to a dually and flatbed after losing a tread doing 80. It's a bad picture but the inner fender, wheel well and bedside are trashed. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/30/mahe3ejy.jpg
are you going to leave it with with the SRW hubs in the front and just run 2 set of rims or change over the front as well?
Haven't decided yet. I would like to just leave the front alone, but it needs a complete rebuild so we will see. I'm also not changing any of the springs but I will add helper bags in the rear.
My kids are going to build the bed and show it, so it may be over the top in design.
It's been a while since I looked into it but I think the 2wd trucks just need a new drw rotor and it's good to go. That or I guess you could also use the 4wd dually adapter.
I think I'm going to find a d80 to put in the rear from what I'm reading it the easiest thing to do. I'll look into the front some more, I have a 99 f350 to measure.
I forget what year but the d80s moved to a larger bolt pattern (8x200) at some point so make sure the one you get has the 8x170 bolt pattern still.
Is it even needed? Him much of a different in width in the srw and drw axles? Can I put dual wheels on the axle I have now?
Since you're building a flatbed I don't think so. The only thing I can see is the inside tire getting into the leaf spring if you run big dually wheels. The d80 is wider but not by much.
Wheels might hit the brakes if you use 16s. I'd find some dually wheels and bolt them up to see if they hit anything.
Sweet. Looking forward to seeing the result.
my advise. build everything a lil thinner than u think it needs to be, it adds up real fast if u want big toolboxes in front and behind the wheels. the one im building would be way to heavy to put on the back of a 250, if i were to do it again i would make the whole frame/structure out of 1/8 or less and the sides 11 or 12 guage with press brake lip top and bottom, or maybe think about using alluminum
I'm thinking everything will be made thin and maybe even al deck. I'm not looking to make it a hauler just to but a nice bed on it and not have to buy a factory one from somewhere.