How is that not clear??? The box does not fit on the motor, too bucoo, no room...
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Fits on mine. You might have to spin the motor, if it's spinnable.
you must be outside your damn mind. :D No actually I meant he should get the 12Voltguy wiring but I am sure his Dad can figure out which wires to tap into. For example:
Robbie's Dash (work of art by his Dad if I must say so)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...05/cage306.jpg
Copy the one on the left, and instead of the Red switch put in a Contura rocker whatever switch like the rest of his and then have the buttons with the engraving. Would look peemp under the gauges, angled like the rest of his switches...
http://12voltguy.com/web/components/...490e137886.jpg
Disclaimer: I am a little inebriated.
meh, I think 12volt guy stuff is garbage.
radio shack switches, cheap looking labels, thin metal, and its a switch panel. I don't get it.
look at that tj switch panel he sells and think if you would be ok with something like that on your dash.
I'll take a picture of the custom one he built for my dad's 40 to cover the "radio" slot and post it. Pop's seems happy with it, somethings are worth more to folks who don't have to deal with any problems. I think the value of the panel came in the very clear instructions of how to tie into his winch control which really helped him. I think Ed has one of his big panels too.
Wiring in a dash mount winch controller is not rocket science and I don't think adding some cheesedick "arming" switch completes the package...
That said take the 12voltguy debate somewhere else. Yes, I agree that his stuff looks cheap and having dozens of arming switches mounted on a shiney aluminum panel does not make it cool, it looks like ass.
Got a few upgrades for the Barn Burner.
Still waiting on the PSC power steering pump to arrive. Need to get the front driveshaft rebuilt for a 1350 dual cv flange setup.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...s/DSC_1260.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...s/DSC_1261.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...s/DSC_1262.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...s/DSC_1263.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...s/DSC_1286.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...s/DSC_1291.jpg
dayum, you could have bought a disco for the price of that efi and been done with the buildup ;)
what size tires did you go with?
Fawkin sweet Robbie tell us some more about the efi system.
That badass Robbie:gigem:
I may be mistaken but I think that kit is like a self-tuning speed density system or maybe better described as a mass air without a MAF sensor?
it is true speed density. self tuning is easily done when you eliminate ignition control and use a wideband on a naturally aspirated engine. Pretty hard to burn holes in pistons or break rings that way, and if it does you can blame it on the springs in the distributor.
It uses the wideband and efi computer to adjust fuel tables on the fly instead of a human interpreting the data while trying to hold on to a laptop while riding in a square tired death trap and helping the driver look out for the man and his radar.
can't see the pic. i'm assuming it is FAST EZ-EFI?
coulda had an LS6
Mounted the tires the other night, the bias ply's are much easier and don't require a strap to seat the inner bead.
Got the new front driveshaft installed and took care of a couple loose ends. Drives really well with the Iroks.
I'll install the fuel injection and other stuff in the next couple weekends after the semester starts.
It's ready for Spring Creek tomorrow...:gigem:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...s/DSC_1303.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...s/DSC_1309.jpg
are you going to upgrade to a 1350 front shaft?
if i lwarned to read then i would have to do homework, thats not gonna happen
looks much better.
tall and skinny is the way to go
Spring Creek trip. (Thanks Garrett for taking pics with my camera)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...k/DSC_1333.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...k/DSC_1337.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...k/DSC_1340.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...k/DSC_1344.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...k/DSC_1348.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...k/DSC_1349.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...k/DSC_1350.jpg
As for the body damage mentioned in the trip thread... It was bound to happen sooner or later I guess.
The passenger side cowl/corner and door opening got a little crunched as well as some cage scuffing. It also tacoed the center of the cowl as highlighted in the pic.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ofDSC_1351.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...k/DSC_1352.jpg
What kind of springs do you have in the front? Can you not move the axle forward a little more to balance out the stance?
I just found this thread. It takes a lot to make a jeep stand out and this one does.....awesome build
Ya, recently I've been thinking more about moving the front axle forward.
The springs are rubicon express yj 1.5" soa 5 leafs with the overloads removed.
I have new shackles from ballistic fab for the front to replace the rubicon express yj shackles that have gotten fubar'd over time (especially this past weekend). The r.e. shackles are bent sideways at the moment.
I will probably end up getting some waggy leaf's for the front.
As for redrilling the perches... I'm not sure if all dodge dana 60's are like mine but the stock perches do not have a solid mounting face around the spring pin hole that can be redrilled. The perch is hollow in front and behind of the spring pin hole. I guess you could use zero rates or whatever they are called.
Those springs have overloads?
You could weld a piece of .25" plate to the perch and drill it. You would be surprised how much different 1" would look I bet.
Maybe the fronts were the 6 leaf's now that I think about it. I might just do that on the perches.
Here's the vid from this weekend.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2kousPu_z0
Time for an update...
Started working on it last week in preparation for Clayton.
The last time it ran was in February when I was summoned to rescue the party of asshats stuck at soggy bottom. Driving it back that night on the highway in 30* weather while covered in nastyness sucked ass...
After sitting for almost 10 months I ended up having to swap out the fuel pump, regulator, and rebuild the accelerator pump/metering block on the carb just to drive it 20 feet to the shop.
List of stuff completed so far. Decided to knock out the fab work and least favorite tasks first.
-moved the front axle forward 1.5". Built custom 3/8" spring pad plates with 5/8" shank locating pins in addition to welding them in.
-built a new steering box brace.
-replaced front output seal on stak
-tore down the d60 to replace seals and bearings (waiting on parts to finish)
-installed new diff covers front and rear
Still to do
-FAST fuel injection
-PSC pump, reservoir, and cooler
-new hood
Might be adding a couple more things before the trip if I can decide...
:laughing:
you should wait on the hood till after Clayton...