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i have gone through many u-joints of varying quality, they key to making a joint last is greasing it if it is needed and not running it at super extreme angles, i was running a 1350 to 1350 shaft at over 30 degrees and couldnt even get a day of wheeling out of a joint
The key is to have superior suspension.
I run house brand u-joints, and I have twisted driveshafts before they failed. Maybe you just suck at putting them in. haha try drinking more next time.
I have never broken a Precision brand u-joint and have way more power and bigger tires than all you bitches. Tommy, your **** is ****ed, that's why you break them.
I broke a precision 1300 u joint
I have never actually broken a driveshaft u-joint. Usually when they pop out it's a result of axle wrap. I do/did wear out 1310 joints of all brands very quickly though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/2070/umad2.jpg
I choose not to discuss u-joints. They might hear me talking about them and decide to explode to prove a point.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
Even Neapcos?
Lucas HAS to make some kind of bandaid miracle cure for u-joints. They do for everything else!
Just like Mark McGuire's Homerun record, you need and asterisk in that post!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
ive broken a precision ujoint. do i get a cool kid sticker now?
LIES!:flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by colman
No you get lumped in with Tummy:flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by colman
I broke a precision ujoint in Reno, just to watch it die.
:laughing: :gigem:
I broke a precision joint in oklahoma...
Go sit in the corner with TumTum and Colman.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellbent
I got the transmission most of the way back in. After it's in I just need to finish running cooler lines and I would be driveable but it's coming apart for the old klogger lift and the sterling rear end. Also found out that there's a coolant leak somewhere near the rear of the engine. I'm not going to trace it down; just hope it's not leaking into the cylinders and start building a replacement motor, maybe a 460, maybe a 351. Depends on what I can find.
well then i'm king of the corner because i broke two at the same time givine me two driveshafts flailing around
Here is a simple and cheap way of extending the radius arms
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=940558
Thinking of getting bilstein 5100 6" lift shocks when the lift goes in. Anybody have any opinions on them? They seem to be a pretty popular shock and I'm not ready to step up to reservoir shocks or anything super fancy.
Also need to figure out if there's a way to mount a BW 1356 to a crossmember. I'm not sure if you can due to the case being magnesium but I would think that the weight of a doubler hanging off the transmission mount would be a bad thing.
I wanted to get bilisteins, but they're pretty pricey. A few people on here talked me into getting some ranchos. They are a really good shock, and the bronco drives like a cadillac on the street.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Go ride in Travis's truck. You'll notice what a difference a good set of coils and shocks makes. I want to get something good the first time. I know what rancho shocks ride like and I know what 3 inch fox shocks ride like, and I want to get the best shocks I can with what I'll be able to spend.
I'm kind of tempted to get 2.5 FOA reservoir shocks on the front and bilsteins on the rear.
I have never seen it done with a 1356, but could you do something like this:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=....jpg&imgrefurl
with the case bolts?
Build the mount attachment point into the doubler plate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
i have bilsteins on my blazer and love them, it rides real smooth with them, i think they are the 5100 series ones
Yah Brian and I have more or less the same suspension and his rides way better. I have Rancho 5015s in the front but they're prety old and haggard. If I ever start working on Pigpen again, getting the Bilsteins I got from Scott rebuilt and installed is my first priority.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
If you are not in a huge hurry used 2.0 resi's (fox or bilstein 7100) can normally be found for around 300-400. Then a complete rebuild and re valve (for a 2.0 fox) is less than $50 per shock.
These might be sold but definitely worth looking into
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/07...00-shocks.html
edit- they are in canada...
I started the truck up tonight and the output spins in neutral so I think it should be fine. Just gotta see if it slips and make sure it shifts alright. I'm feeling pretty good at this point. I'll Put driveshafts in and drive around travis's house on Friday.
Does
http://www.summitmachine.com/store/i...-1-x-1-rh.html
+
http://www.summitmachine.com/store/i...cer-1-3-4.html
= good or could be better for extended radius arms?
This will be about 12-14" extended radius arms with 2"x.25" DOM
and since the radius arms won't be spinning, I shouldn't need jam nuts right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Are hiem joints really needed? I think the $150 could be spent somewhere else (shocks or rear leafs) first.
just my two cents
It needs like 109 more cubes
Are the 96's mass air? or are those just the 302's
the 5.0/5.8 got mass air starting in 94, my brother has a mass air '94 and my '93 is speed density. The 7.5 didn't get it until a year or two later and not every truck was mass air from then on. I saw some '96 SD 7.5s and a few '95s that were mass air.
I thought the 96 302's were the only ones to have mass air, but I could be wrong.
I just googled it some said it was 97 only but I saw some earlier ones
And I know my brothers '94 is definitely a mass air