sweet, thanks for the tip, we'll be picking up a set for the f150 tomorrow, thats just too good of a deal to pass up.Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
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sweet, thanks for the tip, we'll be picking up a set for the f150 tomorrow, thats just too good of a deal to pass up.Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
i have a set from a 5.0 gt mustang that i will let go cheap if you want those
i might swing by to take a look. when we get to that point in the build upQuote:
Originally Posted by colman
Those are the ones I took off (stock 5.0 mustang 'headers'). $20 and they are yours. They could use a wirewheel and some high temp paint.Quote:
Originally Posted by colman
And since this is my thread, you should buy them from me instead of Colman :flipoff2:
go ahead. i was just trying to help him out. i have to much crap in the garage as anyone who has been over here lately can attest. secretly i am holding onto them till i swap a 5.0 innto the red cj
are these long headers or short?Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
short
so they will bolt up to stock collectors and y-pipe? 2 1/4" (i think)Quote:
Originally Posted by william_ace
si, you just need really good gaskets cause they tend to leak
Through a strange course of events I got today off and drove back to CS to work on it some more. The wiring harness is hooked up. The upper intake is cleaned up and bolted down. I cleaned it and painted it with some high heat aluminum. I thought it might look ghetto/chrome, but it actually looks really good, like a new part. Core support should go on this weekend
Waiting on a new throttle cable, egr block-off plate, and ps pump
I need a new steering pump, but do not want to fork over for an AGR. I am thinking about this pump...
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...tnumber=206244
I think this is just an improved version of the stock pump.
Ryan, don't you know how to modify these to flow more?
only the saginaw's, but i heard a lot of good thing about using that bolt in saginaw pump but i cant remember if you need a new high pressure line or not. I know on the bronco once i put ram assist on it there was no need for more flow
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
those are saginaw pumps. you just take the fitting off the back and they come apart like the rest
I plan on going ram assist here shortly, but I need a new pump to start with so I think I am going to get that one.
Apparently you need a high pressure line from a 78-79 bronco.
Well make sure the saginaw pump you get is from a 70's vintage vehicle because (at least Chevy/GM) used flared connections with SAE fittings in the 70's but switched to o-ring connections and metric fittings from 81 to present.
hey john i heard those arent all that great. i have a buddy who has gone through 4 already in 2 years. 2 just snapped the shafts on it. what i did on mine was find a power steering/ AC bracket from a e150 van with the same engine as my truck, installed that and got the pump from the van. they come stock with the saginaw. then i got the high pressure line from the van also, they follow the same route as the truck/bronco pressure line untill it gets to the pump. thats another way to work it anyhow
so e150 pump is a sag pump, but will only bolt up to the e150 bracket? I assume I would need to find one with a 302 or 351? What years?
yes it is a sag pump.
-Saginaw pump and bracket come from 1987-1997 ford 302/351 vans.
-302 and 351 are the same bracket so it won't matter which one you get.
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=115063
but if you search on FSB there is a sag pump that you can buy that bolts up the your current bracket, it is an A-1 part and i think all you need to do the swap is a new high pressure hose
pn 206244 A1 Cardone.Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
right, that too. but thats the one i was sayin my buddy had so many problems with. hes gone though 4 in less than 2 years
what is he doing to them? How are they wearing out?
its on a stock 95 bronco. he said 2 of them seized and broke the shaft. and the other two started leaking out the shaft seal after 4 or 5 months
too much belt tension?
dunno, try it out. its worth a shot
I ordered one. SHould be hear Monday.
It came today. I got it installed but one of the 3 bolts contacts the pulley since the pump shaft is not centered in the housing. I changed the flanged bolts for some regualr hex heads and it clears. I hate really hate PS pulley removal/installation.
Maybe the newer core support goes in tomorrow. Maybe fire it next weekend.
Hungry!
-replacement core support went in
-egr block off plate
-new battery and terminals (1000ca)
-cleaned out the radiator with high pressure, wow alot of shiloh was in there.
-new lower hose
-wires on
-all heater hoses are on
-hooked up hoses to trans cooler
It just needs the distributor stabbed and it will be ready to fire
It runs!
After a few hours of head scratching, we figured out it was 180 out. Got the timing close and it fired right up. I need to get the exhaust redone, a few odds and ends here and there, and it will be ready to roll.:gigem:
Also got a much needed new diff cover from GreatLake Offroad for the 10.25. Pics when it gets here.
sweet!
did you have rowdy helpin on it???
:flipoff2:
I can only moved the wheel a little bit in each direction, then it like hits a wall and will not turn anymore. New pump, new pulley. Before I put the new pulley on today, after running for 10minutes or so, the pump shaft was smoking and super hot, as if the pulley is spinning on the shaft. The new pulley does not seem to be doing this, but still no turning.
When I lift both tires or the ground, of course, it turns lock to lock.
Any ideas?
hydro assist? is it hooked up correctly?
no hydro assist, just a pump and box. Its like its in a bind.
The box was completely dry when I installed it. The pump is full now, but maybe fluid is not getting into the box somehow?
I am pretty sure all Ford boxs are the same. The one that is in now is one I got from Tate many years ago.
if the engine is off and the tires off of the ground does it turn smoothly
can you crack the return line at the box to see if it is pumping. I wouldn't think that it would be airlocked, but funnier things have happened.
YesQuote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
I cracked the return line and it is definetely pumping.Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
Ok, I might lose you here, but let me explain.....Ove the past 2-3 runs, my steering will all of a sudden 'go out'. It will let me turn slightly but that is it. Once I hit say a rock or a a bump or somthing the right way, it seems to work just fine again. Since these episodes, it has sat in the driveway while I do this engine swap. In this process, I have changed the gear box to the one I got from Tate years ago, I have swapped on a sag. pump from A1 Cardone. I also replaced both pressure and return lines.
It is acting now just like it did out on the trail like I descibed. Like the whole setup is in a bind.
My tierod for now is a stock F350 piece. The d-link is above the leaf and goes to the ORU knuckle (just like a high steer arm for you KP guys) The d-link runs at an upward angle (it is maybe 2" lower at the pitman arm than where is mounts at the knuckle) I do not think this is an issue though, just stated what I am working with.
My steering shaft has seen a hard life and I know I have never replaced it. COuld that be the issue?
O, and apparently putting square port headers on round port heads with square port gaskets causes exhaust leaks:D
its sounds like something mechanical is binding up. maybe in the steering column
or maybe even in the front axle, could your axle shafts be moving enough that the ujoint binds when you try to turn the wheel?