That thing is going to sure turn some heads. Maybe even some stomachs. :gigem:
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That thing is going to sure turn some heads. Maybe even some stomachs. :gigem:
It's going to be towed within 5 minutes from that place :DQuote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
i couldnt find dannys scout thread so id figure id just post these pics here?
also did you guys take the 4 sets of bushings i had out of my front seat? they were not there and i saw 2 on the shelf... kinda need those back if so
oh almost forgot one :flipoff2:
damn, you didnt get a picture of my paintings.
nevermind, there is one of then on the tires.
Coop those bushings on the shelf are mine, I dont know what happened to yours.
Haley sitting in my tires cracks me up
Allright well its almost time to start thinking about finishing the motor build. I still need to decide which heads and precombustion chambers I'm going to use. Oliver, if I get you some casting #'s will you be able to tell me what the best ones to go with are? I have the different varieties to chose from right now as follows
1 set off a 88 J code that came in a 1 ton 4x4.
1 set off a 83 C code that came from god knows where
3 sets off of 84 CUCV's, all J code 1 ton 4x4's.
The two sets of J codes are in my garage but the C codes are still on the motor at my shop back home.
Also I've been looking into getting a tach but the options for a 6.2 are slim. I have heard of one variety where you glue a magnet to the harmonic balancer and a sensor to the block, but that seems a little janky to me. Well aparently Isspro makes tach's that are driven off of either the alternator or the oil pump drive. I couldnt find the oil pump version on Isspro's site but its mentioned in an article on the diesel page.
Here's the alternator version
http://www.isspro.com/proddetail.php?prod=R85220
Here's another alternator driven one from Autometer
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugede...earch&gid=2602
Got the blinkers fixed so hes ready to be inspected. Just waiting on the title paperwork from mom now...
Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
if kopecki can find a place to inspect his jeep, you can too!
Title has been aquired and registration renewed, it was much less painless than I was expecting.
now get it inspected so we can all poke fun of that thing as it drives around and act like we don't know you
Holy crap I just saw Pigpen on the road. :gigem:
what did you do for insurance?
Added to my normal policy with Geico. It was only another $100 a year for bare minimum liability coverage. But as far as they know pigpen is a 84 2wd 3/4 ton :flipoff2:
As those that were there saw I had some problems with my front axle at TCC. My driver's side front tire would not spin even with the hub locked. I figured the hub was not engaging for some reason but when I took it apart nothing was broken or otherwise messed up. My shafts are not broken either, which leaves the detroit. I bought the ***** brand new about 3 1/2 years ago. I've always heard that when detroits go they usually explode into a million pieces but when I drained my diff there werent any metal shavings or chunks. I am hesistant to take the carrier out b/c the gears were professionaly set up but I cant think of any other reason the wheel wasnt spinning. Anyone else have any ideas?
the hub wasnt put together correctly maybe. if you get the springs in the wrong place they wont engage. i would think the detroit would make some noise, not just mysteriously stop working.
why don't you take both hubs off and spin the yoke by hand and see if both shafts rotate? That would eliminate hub problems.
I have to agree with john. I can not believe I agree with this tard but it happened to my milemarker hubs.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
I'm getting a new set of hubs to put in so we'll see how that goes.
I finally RTI'd pigpen for the first time at TCC, I could have gone higher but I didnt feel like repositioning again.
damn that is ugly lookin
Ugly yes, but your rig is kind of like those margaritas Jerry brought to the river...non-existent!
Whats wrong with it? I can almost see it from my garage, sitting in the Goody's parking lot.
he told me last night, the starter had died down the road some time last weekend, he put a new one in it yesterday and drove it that far back to the dexter house before it died again, the positive battery cable melted to the exhaust pipe, and killed the battery. i'm sure robert can tell you more detail
Yup, starter died in post oak village apartments last weekend. Finaly got around to replacing it yesterday but positioned the battery cable poorly on the exhaust manifold so it melted through the insulation and killed everything. The battery took a charge and I got a new cable made so I'm gonna (hopefully...) go fix it tomorow and get it home.
Well something between the ignition switch and starter solenoid is ****ed so I just installed a jumper wire from the solenoid to the battery with a momentary push button. I'm prety sure the battery is hosed. I bought a new one from napa so between that and the button, pigpen runs again! Canadian...yes deffinately. There's a bunch of little **** that needs to be addressed before he's ready to wheel, but I'm gonna get as much as I can done this weekend and hopefully make a trip up to Gilmer before Clayton.
I am in the process of relocating the batteries to behind the passenger seat and need some electrical assistance. I am planning on running the battery cables through the floor at the back of the cab and then up the frame rail to the firewall, where I will have a single post junction block where I can hook up power to the starter, winch and all accesories. I have been googling looking for junction blocks and have found a few but am wondering about their ratings. Most say rated for 250 amps, but with two batteries I will have about 1500 CCA. How much power does a starter actually draw? Will the rating even be an issue if the cable ends are stacked on top of each other on the post (so power goes from terminal to terminal as opposed to terminal-post-terminal)? This is the best looking one I've found so far, mostly because it has a 1/2" diameter post where most others have 3/8" posts, it doesnt have a rating though.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...2juncblock.jpg
It can be seen here
http://www.wiringproducts.com/index1.html
Also, what are y'all's thoughts on how to go through the sheetmetal of the cab? Is one of the dual sided terminals (as pictured below) that much better than a plain hole with a grommet? I will probably be using 2/0 cable to the junction block and 1/0 to the starter.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q..._block_big.jpg
I am also planning on having a battery kill switch mounted in the cab where I can reach it from the driver's seat, but I havent found one I like yet.
Then, onto the grounding situation. Is it absolutely neccesary to ground the batteries to the motor or would I be ok with a suitably heavy frame ground with the motor acceptably grounded as well? What about the winch ground? I have always heard you arent supposed to ground a winch's negative cable but I dont know why. I know this is alot of questions and I may ask on pirate too. Thanks
hmmmm, are you here? I'll go see.
Grounding to the frame and having the motor grounded to the frame works, just make sure you have good grounds.
The other stuff is personal prefernce I guess. I would just run the wire through a hole. I also don't see how you would burn up a 1/2" post so I wouldn't worry about the rating.
why??? Too much work and money for that rig... :flipoff2:
Hater :flipoff2: There's a bunch of prety trivial reasons, the best of which is my effort to improve the overall look of the vehicle by adding tube work and inner (maybe even outer!?!?) fenders to the front. Looks like I'm goin to pirate.Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
looks like you have what you need to do a good job, use a grommet though, that through-cab terminal prolly won't like winhing annd many hard starts. The 2/0 will be plenty big for what your doing. x2 on engine ground
I really want to get new tires before Clayton, so I need to get on it now. I have 5 8-bolt hummer rims that I am going to wrap with 40's, either IROK's or TSL's. I'm leaning towards TSL's at the moment though, cause everyone and their mother has 40" IROK's. I was originally planning on running the rims unmodified with dually hubs on the front and spacers on the rear, but steel 4" spacers would cost around $200. So now I think I'm going to recenter my rims instead. I need to find a place to get all the normal parts; centers, studs, nuts and o-rings. I think I'm going to order the o-rings and nuts from USA 6x6 because most people get them with no problems, but I've heard too many mixed reviews about their centers. I havent been able to find new studs available anywhere. My search of pirate revealed that most people have just used a wheel stud, which I may end up doing if I cant find the correct ones.
Now, whats the best way to go cutting the old centers out? Clarke told me John Brown had the cardoc guys use a plasma to do it. Did it come out clean enough to not worry about turning on a lathe? I'm not worried about welding the centers in myself, me and my MM210 can handle it. For outer rim and stud protection I have the aTm rings that Ed got for me from the Copperhead Fab guy in Lubbock. They will be sandblasted and painted my standard silver and black.
get the new Mud Terrains - you have a credit card right? They make 40's, there just $600ea... :eek:
if your still wondering about junction blocks. the rating isnt dependant on the block or stud, but on the ring terminal and wire gauge. they are $9 a piece at academy in the marine section.
I have a set of 6x6 centers at the house that I will not be using. Drop me a note if you need em. (I may have promised them to somebody else, so if I did will that person please let me know. I have traveled way to far to remember **** like that. :flipoff3: )
Well I spent all my momeny on gun stuff for now so I wont be able to get the tires before Clayton, but I wouldnt have had time to do all the wheel work anyway.
Anyhow, 11 months later I finally finished the sliders yesterday. While I was welding in the last floor panel, Robbie thought it would be funny to spray the back side of my weld with brake cleaner. It made a big fireball. Asshat.
Pigpen's ready for Clayton!
That close to losing her to a fire... Whew.Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
:flipoff2:
My bad...
Well I spent ~3 hours and $70 trying to sand blast my wheels yesterday. 70 lbs of aluminum oxide got me about halfway through one wheel. Does anyone know of a local place that will sandblast 5 wheels for a decent price? The paint on those mofo's is THICK and tough as ****. Steel grit would probably have been a better media choice but between the time it would take to do all 5 wheels and the cost of the media, I am going to take em somewhere.