stop being a ***** and get it done already
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stop being a ***** and get it done already
robert cook(sand in my vag) voice on"oh my back"robert cook(sand in my vag) voice off
ass holes. me and nick got it in there. it wasnt too bad once we got a strategy. flem and ed came by too but we already had it under there.
pitman arm clearance is going to be interesting. i need to make the rear spring hangers now.
sorry i missed the party. i was expecting a phone call so i wasnt trying to remember.
The pitman arm clearance is going to be interesting because of the reverse shackle deal? I've seen that when the "towers" are too short. Also make sure your front drive shaft has plenty of travel. I finally overextended mine at Katemcy at the tech weekend deal.
the steering box is on the outside of the frame, and the springs are just outside of the frame as well. i got a little more done today. making brackets is a very slow job. i will need a cv driveshaft i believe, since mine is just a regular slipe yoke one with tiny 1310 joints. i think i can make a 78-79 bronco driveshaft work.
i thought about making the front hangers lower but clearance and approach angle would suffer. i don't know what to do yet. i may just go full hydro if i can't make the pitman arm and leaf springs be friends
could you not have rotated the box a little to get the pitman arm as close to the frame as you could?
i guess i could. that would mean making a new steering shaft and moving the box might be a pain i dont know. are pitman arms forged? maybe i could heat it up and bend it
Do you have any clearance on the inside of the frame to where you could use a different steering box? Maybe move the box back a couple inches and shorten the steering shaft or notch the frame 1/4" to 1/2" and recess it?
heres the progress of today. all of the weight is on the springs now. i don't know what to think of it yet.
Man, your rig and Sharpe's have come along well. Beefy. Pretty cool. The front looks a little lower than it could be. Now you both should get 44s. :) You might have to trim a little in the front.
I would rebuild the front bracket and drop it down about an inch maybe more. it will help with pinion angle and clear the pitman arm
yea, i think thats my next project. i dont think a inch lower would cost too much approach angle
here is a pic from my build way back when. But I guess your issue is coming from have the steering box on the outside of the frame.
HF grinders suck. You think they are alright until you use a real a grinder. Then you realize how bad they vibrate and kill your hands.
I love my Milwaukee grinder
The Dewalt 10 amp 4 1/2 in is a damn good grinder. best ive ever used.
im not going to comment on how good my dewalt is. dont wanna jin it. i wanna be able to say ive done two builds with it. as much as i use a grinder... thats a testament.
my HF drill burst into flames one day while notching tube.
i have 4 hf grinders one flap one grinder one cutter and they all have lasted over a year with a lot of use. now if i could afford 3 dewalts then hell yea but for the price of one of the hf ones you really can't beat them. once you get one that works for that matter. i plug mine in before i leave the store, went thru 3 right there in the front before i left with my second one
the thing i hate about the hf grinders is the switch. i much prefer a paddle switch that kills the grinder if you let go. get your shirt in a hf and you arent going to find the switch and turn it off in time. you at least have a chance with a paddle switch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
I usually try and keep my clothes out of the power tools I'm using... :gigem:
hf has one on their website that looks like a copy of the dewalt dw402 which is what i have, paddle switch and all. Thats what made me want to go to hf to get one, but they don't have those in the store. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepPhisherman
how about dropping it on your chest while on your back. or or or, there are lots of situations where the chinese might not mind using dangerous tools but i do. i think brandon has lost two or three fingers to his HF grinder.
My first HF grinder kicked ass, and lasted over 3 years. But it got rained on and died, so I replaced it, and the new one is definitely junk. One time I turned it off, and set it down. About 10 minutes later it suddenly came on and shot accross the work table.
I have 2 dewalt grinders and a porter cable. However the porter cable, which is a copy of a dewalt needs new brushes, it was/is about 4 years old. The dewalts got used alot, one of them has a wire wheel stuck on it and rowdy couldn't kill the other.
now if you are a man you buy a dewalt or millwakee 7 inch grider. That is going to be my next purchase as far as grinders. They are incredible, can do acurate work and quickly.
What can I say, I tried
pitman arm clearence is better but, not great. i need to start ordering parts...
looks like the top of the TRE is going to hit the frame. I know, mine was ridiculously close when I had the flat Waggie arm on there.
Unless the camera angle is bad, I think you're right. If nothing else I guess he could always put a little notch in the frame to help it clearQuote:
Originally Posted by BMFScout
the actual joint goes under the pitman arm. the only thing on top of the arm is the end of the shaft and nut. the camera angle is a little deceiving. there is about 3/4" of clearance between the frame and arm
found out that 2wd trucks of my body style have a mirror steering box of the 4wd's inside the frame. so i'm thinking since i wanted to get a rebuilt box since mines leaking and old, i'll just get the 2wd version, tap it for hydro assist and slap it on. providing there isnt something in the way
I have a 7" black and decker that will rock your world. Now, I'm sure you're thinking "oh black and decker, yah those are homo-metro-housewife tools." Not this one. It is fawking old, I would guess 60's-ish. It weighs at least 5 pounds and will jerk you around if you dont pay attention. I used it exclusively for the first year I had my welder because it somehow slipped my attention that anyone made smaller grinders :laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
Just make sure you will be able to clear the tierod. I have the TR infront on the cheby and it seems to be tucked up pretty good although the fowty fo's do help this. I have seen some pictures of the arms breaking (although only a few) so I guess it would boil down to what material they are made from when you decide on the thickness.
ed what kind of arms do you have
I am pretty sure I have the ORD arms with the tie-rod infront. You need a picture of them?
no, just was wondering what brand
im still working on rebuilding the 60. i didn't expect every wearable part to be completely ****ed
almost done cleaning the housing. also got a pair of add a leafs and 6* shims on, hopefully they'll actually give the front springs arch under weight.
did my pinion tool work
no, it was too small. used impact and a piece of rebar