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keep the seat... I would also make the cage and the rear of the cab except some sort of bikini top to keep the sun out. use the hardtop bolt holes except some kind of channel that you can bolt on. have your bikini top made w/ a rope sewed in it and then slide it into the channel like a camper's awning.....is it going to have a tailgate? it would be cool if it had a working tailgate of some sort...plus you crap wouldn't slide out.
as far as a soft top goes, its not that hard to modify a CJ bikini top to work
for the people who said keep the rear seat :flipoff2:
Its been a real PITA changing all my plans in a attempt to keep it. And no matter how I do things, there is not going to be alot of leg room for anyone sitting in the back.
BTW, bending tube and fitting everything up by yourself with no one to help out really sucks.
a little tube work
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0179.sized.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0176.sized.jpg
crappy pics of the sliders
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0182.sized.jpg
what all do I need to do to upgrade to 35 spline stuff in my front axle? My inner axles are the non neck down kind, so I think all I need would be the new outer stubs, drive flanges or locking hubs, and some new u-joints, right? What kind of cost am I looking at to do this? I'd like to go with all new chromoly stuff, but don't think I can afford that at the moment. I don't know if it would really even be needed for a low powered rig like mine
you'll pay nearly as much for stock stuff as you will for alloy. they both use the same u-joints afaik.
http://www.4wdfactory.biz/osc2.2/pro...183774be82cf64
yeah, I guess I could go with chromoly stubs, then upgrade the inners later when I have a little more money.
did you go with the package you listed? Does it include U-joints, or only if you upgrade to the CTMs?
no, i got a full set of axles. i think that set includes spicer joints and locking hubs. you can upgrade to ctm's or drive flanges. i dont think you are going to beat that deal for what you want.
yeah, if it does include U-joints that is a pretty decent deal. I wonder what the difference between the different drive flanges offered are?
is the spicer 5-806x the best stock type u-joint available for a D60? What is the cheapest that anyone has found them? I've seen 40 bucks, but can anyone beat that?
Also, has anyone found any decent deals on 35 spline stub axles? 4wd factory has the stock type ones for 64 bucks, and the cheapest chromoly ones I've found was 95 bucks at Sky MFG.
Basically I'm just seeing if I can find the parts seperately for cheaper than what it would cost me to go with the 4wd Factory package once I add the chromoly and drive flange upgrade (and taxes since they are here in texas)
If you can find the money, get some better shafts than the Yukons. That is one of the things that I wish I did differently. The Yukon shafts only turn to 35 degrees - there are planty others out there that guarentee to 42+ degrees. A good turning radius will be your best friend. I might even change mine...
http://www.moserengineering.com/Page...s/max4460.html
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/
leave it 31 spline if you are gonna be cheap with it. there are plenty of used stubs out there or upgrade when you destroy it...
but it seems like most of the time the stub shaft mushrooms the spindle...Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
you have a point... disregard my comment
yes, this is what I'm hoping to avoid. I was kinda hoping I could sell some of my current stuff to help off set the cost of going to 35 spline stuff and drive flanges. Plus even the stock type 35 spline shafts and the new spicer joints would be a decent strength upgrade over what I have nowQuote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
ya left your diff cover bolts at westons
I don't need them since I got new ones with the new cover. He cab keep them or throw them away
anyone know off hand what size the two studs for the diff side spring pad are on a dodge D60? I want to say they were 9/16 course thread, but I can't remember for sure. Krebs, Kopecki? I want to pick up the correct size studs since the bolts I used to bolt it all together before were to long.
I don't use those. Mine were 5/8 but I think I had tapped them.
dodge and chevy are different if I remember correctly. I think dodge is 9/16 and chevy is 5/8 like kopecki said
yeah, the u-bolt kit I got had 5/8 studs, but those didn't work with my D60
Just go buy some high grade all-thread, thats what I did. Chevies are indeed 5/8.
thats basically what I meant when I said studs, but I just wanted to check on the size before I bought anything. I gotta go by mack this weekend anyway, so I'm going to call and see if they have any 9/16 B7 all-thread
did a little more work on the 4runner this weekend
Front seat mounts
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0343.sized.jpg
I'm going to cover the frame section in the middle above the t-cases with aluminum. The rear seat mounts had to be at floor level due to the height of the seat, so those mounts come up from the frame underneath. I didn't have time to get pics of that
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0353.sized.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0357.sized.jpg
I'm going to remove the doors, and continue the rear fender bars angling down to the front of the sliders. I'm also going to wrap the back end of the rear fender bars around to meet the rest of the tubing when I'm done with the upper portion of the exo
the front fenders
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0349.sized.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0350.sized.jpg
the front bumper isn't finished or painted because I don't know if I'm going to leave it like that. It just didn't turn out like I wanted it to, so if I have enough tubing, I may cut it off and start over with a different design
Do you plan on leaving the front of that tube like that? I would try to make a curved piece on the end that curves towards the body to keep from hanging up on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN
The top tube on the front bumper is too straight and sticks out.
Looks really sweet though :cool:
Maybe you should read the posts and not just look at the pretty pictures.:flipoff2: :laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by TxCruzr
Mongo's looking good. :gigem:
yeah, try reading next time :flipoff2: I knew the rail sticking out in the back was going to be a problem. At first I was going to wrap it back into the cab, but then decided to ditch the doors and run the tube from the rail down kinda like a permanent tube door. It would also help keep things from getting hung up as the vehicle slid along rocks and stuff. As for the bumper, yeah it ended up to straight and funky looking, hence the reason I'm plannin on ditching it. Other than the fender bars, its only bolted on, so it shouldn't be to hard to remove it. I'm going to cut the fender bars close to the bumper, then sleeve them and go with the new design from thereQuote:
Originally Posted by TxCruzr
Quote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
i dont reed gud :flipoff2:
I like the front fender bars. I've always like mini's and 4runners with the front cut like that :cool:
holy crap do you have a spy in "John's shop?" Those exposed ends of tubing look strangely familiar
Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
loose lips sink ships, eric.
you haven't seen the pics I put in PBB Chit-chat :confused2
guess i missed them. oh well.
any one know how many degrees the alloy USA ones are rated for?Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
and your's are the loosest around....Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
sorry bout that, back on topic
some new bling
solid axle drive flanges
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0376.sized.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0379.sized.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0381.sized.jpg
These things are beefy. The slug is 4340 and the cover plates are billet steel versus aluminum which most of the competitors use.
http://www.solidaxle.com/products/d60driveflange.htm
Alloy USA 35 spline stub shafts
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0393.sized.jpg
Spicer 5-806x u-joints, kingpin rebuild kits, and new wheel bearings
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0384.sized.jpg
Now I just need to get the D60 reassembled and back underneath the 4runner
closer
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0418.sized.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0428.sized.jpg
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...0421.sized.jpg
door bars are not welded in yet since I may need to remove them while putting in my cage. It takes a little work to get them out, but they can still be pulled