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You guys know ryan's driving style. Those stock 44 shafts don't stand a chance with 37's and the 5.0L. There is no point in upgrading the inners if you leave the outers stock, you grenade an outer and its a pretty good chance you'll take the ears off the inner chromo as well.
The Doctor prescribes 1 glass of airsoft pellets in each tire.
2500 bbs x .12G each. = roughly 10oz.
I *erred* on the excessive side.
I went with the golf balls in mine. Let us know how you like the ride.
First off, the new tires on the front ends own weight. It is allot higher than I thought, looks like for than 1" gain in height to me. I still like it though.
Second, what do you get when you combine some chain, a harbor freight 12ton tubing kinker, and a torch? A relatively straight axle. The problem before was when I slid in the driver side shaft the flange would get 4" from the hub and I would have to beat the f*ck out of it to get it to go in. Then the bolt holes on the shaft and hub would not line up.
NOW I can slid the flange all the way to the hub and all the bolts line up, just like the pass. side, and just like it is supposed to.
Stay tuned for the truss and shave.
the axle was bent foward? how the hell do you mangage that?
It was bent forward and up, I had to re-arrange the jack about 6 times to get the shaft properly centered in the spindle.
I have found that I have an extreme talent for bending axles.
which makes complete senseQuote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
Why? It was on the drivers side tube not the pass. which has the anti-wrap bar mount. The old AMC20 bent up and forward on the pass. side but that was because of anti-wrap bar forces. Why would the drivers side bend?Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
which side the bar is on doesn't determine which side will bend. you transfer tractive force through the springs. the anti-wrap bar only keeps the axle from rotating. it doesn't push the vehicle forward. think about the vehicle weight pushing down and traction pushing forward and it will make sense. you got good traction on the driver's side and bent the axle.
Okay, cool, sounds good to me. Well hopefully properly trussing it on the back and top will stop all movement in the future.
Got the pass. side back truss cut out and tacked on. 3"x2"x1/8" box spine. The cutouts for the u-bolts are 1"x1"1/4" box.
why not put more a pie-cut on the end, the way you have it looks like ass
what the f*cxk is a pie cut?
tapered down towards the outside of the axle. The way you have it now though, if you ever decide to chop the ends off and turn it into a rear steer axle, that piece would be great to mount a ram on for the hydro steer.
its the way to make it NOT look like you threw so random piece of tube on your axleQuote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
it is tapered towards the ends. Just not a lot. I wanted to keep as much of the tube out towards the ends as possible. It bent about 5" from the spindle and outside of the leaf spring.Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
1.5"x.120 tube
I don't think this axle will be bending anymore.
as long as you didn't warp it when you welded it you should probably double check it
I'm not done welding it. I have had the shafts in the entire time and have welded a 1 inch section then let it cool for an hour for two days now. No warpage has occurred and at this point probably won't because of the trusses being firmly attached.Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
Shaved and plated with 1/4", probably could have gotten more clearance but I'm happy with the way it turned out. Also plated the back ring gear hump from the truss down to the bottom with 3/16", this way if I come off a ledge onto the ring gear hump it won't dent.
The axle is back under the jeep, will get everything attached to it tomorrow and finish up the belly skid with anti-wrap bar mount.
you should redo your shave and make it match the pinion angle so that the bottom is nice and flat, and add some of that cutting board material so it will slide good
HA!, redo? Yah right. It'll work just fine. Couldn't get it much flatter without interfering with the ring gear anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
given that you have spent a lot of coin and time on this now. would you do it again? As it sits you shouldn't have to worry about it anymore. just hypothetically speaking.
ya we can hope this thing is now bullet proof. to answer your question, I'm not sure. ya it now looks cool and is definitely custom/different. but on the other hand i could have shortened a 60 or 14bolt and never have to worry about it again either.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
or gotten a c&c 14 bolt w/ 63 wms like i tried to get you to do from the beginnning
you should buy this front axle so you can have sixty nines front and rear.
http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=32106
funny you posted that up. In a way, I am.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
Wrong drop for me though.
Going to pick up both of them when I'm up in Dallas for a super secret build.
awesome. but drop for you shouldn't matter, the d300 can be flipped.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
you wont wheel the CJ, but you can have a super secret build?
if i flipped the 300 i would also have to clearance the floor and skid. make a shifter and redo the exhaust.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
its not my secret build to give away i'm just sourcing parts, relaying money, and transporting the new goodies. basically i'm a mule. . . but i'm currently out of both drugs and mexicans:gigem:
wheels finally came in yesterday. I wanted to go with the 2.75 backspacing in the rear but they didn't come in a 8" wide rim, so I got the 4.25 all the way around. same width as before with the 35s.
most of the little details are buttoned up, i'll make a full list in a bit. But here's how it looks, the rear will come down and level it out once I get a spare tire/wheel and fill the tool box. the yellow stick is a 2' framing square, just for reference of how tall it is.
what is the clearance at the lowest point of the skid
Im kinda new to all of this, why would you put this in your tires?Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
because big nobby tires are impossible to ballance. this along with a few other techniques is an attempt to internally ballance the tires
how does it even work? won't the airsoft pellets just roll around with the tire?
nope, the bb's go to the low spots and make everything ballance out. google it if you want more specific info
Not impossible, just a PITA. Doing it "right" involves shaving the tread to make it perfectly concentric and taking them to a heavy truck shop for balancing ("normal" tire balancing machines are not big enough to do anything over ~35").Quote:
Originally Posted by colman
the airsoft pellets are freaking great, they balance really well up to 50 (fastest i've gotten it up to) and make a great 'wooshing' noise at low speeds.
22" with a wheelbase of 95". I shouldn't be dragging my belly over much.Quote:
Originally Posted by colman
-rewired electric fans, now have one on an on-off switch and one thermostatically controlledQuote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
-Replaced bent front center pins
-Added 'spring retainer' plates to front u-bolt plates to stop the leafs from spanning out
-Shortened front d-shaft by 1 1/8"
-Braced up skid plate and added protection for transmission
-Made new anti-wrap bar crossmember
-Added factory seals to 609 hub/shaft flange instead of rtv
-New tranny hump cover plate
Still need to fix my temp gauge, the needle no longer moves, checked the wiring and everything appears ok, i think it my be the coolant sensor, need to look into it.