Yea, Scott will put a dent in it with flying ninja kick.
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Yea, Scott will put a dent in it with flying ninja kick.
somehow - he ended up with a dent in his hood on our trip earlier this month...Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
stayin' yoked bro...Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
I am now, it's backordered.Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
Good point Scott. Robbie, I have a few questions for you. They're easy, because they have the same answer.
1. Are you going to wheel this Jeep anymore?
2. Should you cancel your new hood on order?
:D
Did you get my txt last night?
Yes to both... :DQuote:
Originally Posted by davido
I occasionally drive it on the highway just like Scott does with Lynda's, so I would prefer to keep it looking somewhat nice. The hood I can replace, but the passenger side cowl/door opening is permanent.
Yes...:laughing: Are you going to Clayton?Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
are you bringing enough spare u-joints?
I changed the front output on the stak to a 1350 flange and dual cv front driveshaft after Clayton last year. That fixed the problem but I'm bringing spares just in case.
Thank god, between u and Eric that was one cold poorly lit impromptu night run.
i still laugh at eric trying to use my mag light and my headlights to get off the trail. good times.....
Added a couple more things before Clayton...
Back when I built the axles there were a couple of questionable items that I neglected. Chipped teeth on the front ring and pinion as well as toasted carrier bearings. They held up ok over the past few years but after finding the gear's to be 3.54's instead of 4.10's as I was told I had enough.
Decided to do things right once and for all...
-Dana 60- master install kit, 5.13's, Detroit, 4340 chromoly 35 spline outers
-Dana 70- master install kit, 5.13's, Detroit
Did you have the detroits before? What used to be the setup?
i think he was lincoln locked
Old setup was welded front and rear, 3.54's, stock shafts.
Thought the hood was backordered but it ended up coming in today...Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
i vote you leave it in the box till after clayton.....
and then set it up to be a quick swap out with the old one so you will always have a clean one for cruising/truck shows or whatever...Quote:
Originally Posted by colman
I thrashed day and night to get everything installed and ready for Clayton. It was ready to fire up mid afternoon on Thursday then a broken throttle cable and hole in the return line halted progress. Built a new throttle cable, return line, and it fired right up. After a quick run down the driveway to let the computer "learn" I loaded it up and rolled out for Clayton.
With the amount of changes and all the work I put in, I was pleased with how it performed considering it was untested.
A complete list of stuff I installed or built before the trip
-FAST EFI system
-5.13 gears front and rear
-Detroit lockers front and rear
-4340 Chromoly 35 spline shafts up front
-35 spline drive flanges
-front axle wheel bearings and seals
-PSC steering pump, reservoir, and cooler
-moved front axle forward 1.5"
-built a new steering box brace.
-replaced front output seal on stak
-built new electric fan mounts
The fuel injection worked flawlessly throughout the trip, it fired right up and had no problem running at angles. It stuttered the couple times that I decked the throttle from a standstill but that is due to the computer not having enough time to learn the tune. The computer continues to tune itself and learn as you drive more so it should only get better.
The 5.13's and Detroit's made all the difference compared to the old setup of welded front and rear with 3.54's. The lower gearing was great for crawling and downhill descents. Making tight turns was made easy with the detroits and new PSC pump setup. In low gear turning was effortless, even with the drive flanges on the street. The extra 1.5" of wheelbase up front was noticeable on my approach angle and helped quite a bit.
Even though I had issues with the front driveshaft being too short it still did fairly well over the weekend. I hit more trails than ever before and was still wheeling Sunday night even with the hydro assist tabs ripped off the tie rod, a missing front shim, and sheared upper joint on the anti wrap bar. At the end of the weekend it drove back onto the trailer with four wheel drive...success.
List of repairs/changes
-build long spline front driveshafts, 1 for a spare
-change out front spring plate studs for u-bolt setup
-new shims under springs and spring plates to keep u-bolts from bending.
-beefier hydro assist ram mount and spare lines
-new antiwrap rod end, plus spares
-winch solenoids and rope.
pics I found... Thanks Sam and Scott
Jeff's Ledges
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4..._1703077_n.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4..._3799830_n.jpg
Green Mamba
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Redneck Millionaire (Saturday)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...g/IMG_1070.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...g/IMG_1071.jpg
Green Mamba Extension
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Backside trail to Gobbler's Knob
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Redneck Millionaire- Sunday
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Damn... Can't believe I haven't updated this thread in almost 2 years. Well it's time for an update.
It's been wheeling great with no real issues, just body damage and a knicked hydro assist line.
TCC IX
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...X/IMG_2367.jpg
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Clayton 2011
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...n/IMG_2425.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...n/IMG_2465.jpg
Marble Falls 2012
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Falls20001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Falls20004.jpg
TCC X
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...80939784_n.jpg
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So....
After the TCC X trip it sat until July when I took it down to DownSouth. Drove around for about 30 min. and felt the transmission slipping, happened to look under the Jeep and saw the skidplate full of atf. Further inspection revealed the tailhousing had cracked completely around the governor cover.
Well I finally got around to ordering a new transmission for it back in October. After looking at TCI, Hughes, etc. I ended up calling Jimmy's 4x4 after reading about them on Pirate. Jimmy's son, Randy, walked me through what parts would be good for my setup and how they build their transmissions to the customer's spec'd drum, pump, clutches, shafts, etc. rather than a stock trans with a "performance" valvebody (which is what some of the above mentioned manufacturers offer when it comes to 4wd stuff).
Specs I chose- HD Intermediate drum with Sprag and HD outer Race, large low roller clutch/Center support (700r4) w/ Retention Plate, v8 core (5 Friction FWD & Direct Drums). Transgo shift kit, Full Manual Reverse Valvebody, Anti Ballooning Plate, AN fittings at the cooler and transmission vent drilled for 1/4" barb.
I also added a Winters gated cable shifter to the order since the B&M streetrod shifter had become an issue due to a certain individual (I'll spare the name of the guilty party...haha) yanking on the shifter thinking it was a manual or so they claimed.
Pretty sweet method to shipping it standard residential....weighed in at 145 lbs.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...k/IMAG0382.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...k/IMAG0384.jpg
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A couple of loose nuts/bolts and a good thrashing/flop combo equals cracked transmission.
Oh, and before anyone asks, yes the Stak has it's own mount as well.
"Well there's your problem..."
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...k/IMAG0421.jpg
When you say its own mount what does that mean? That is the same area my 3 TH400s broke at before I added the foot mount off the side. I assume this will be ready for Clayton?
that shifter sucked - but your brakes sucked worse. Hopefully the new tranny / torque converter will help it from pulling thru the brakes. That shifter doesn't like to shift when its all torqued up. Did you ever upgrade your brakes?
Pic of the mount from way back in '08....Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...05/cage117.jpg
I can't believe you asked that second question...... Hell yeah it will be there.
My brakes kick ass, your just a nancy that can't push the pedal hard enough.... :laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
You really do have to put the pedal down solid to hold in 4 low since going to 5.13's in the axles, but it holds great. No hydroboost needed, just a big wilwood manual master. Guess I'm used to it.
Are you talking about the old shifter or new one? On the old one you have to push down on it to change gears. If your talking about the new one, that sounds like it would be an issue with the transmission since the shifter is just moving the gear selector lever on the side of the case.
When I originally did the hydro assist back in '07-08 I tried to take the cheaper route by going with a Rockstomper ram, tapping the stock S-10 box, and doing the hp spring mod on the saginaw pump. It worked ok for a short time.
Then I replaced the s-10 box with a PSC unit, later the saginaw with a fancy PSC pump, and went with a bigger cooler. In Clayton 2010, the ram mount ripped off the tie rod and found the ram to be leaking since. Rockstomper is no longer in business as far as I have found.
Ordered the PSC ram on monday and it came in today, now have full PSC steering.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...k/IMAG0424.jpg
Time for an update....
Didn't get any pics from Clayton 2012 but had a good time and ran a bunch of the same ol' trails... Good times night wheeling.
TCC XI (few pics I have)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psc11f6a71.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps5faeb0fe.jpg
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Been a while, time to update....
Wheelin' pics since the last post.
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Since the Alto trip I've been doing quite a bit of wrenching and made some changes in preparation for Clayton....
Back in November, I dropped by 4WheelParts and they were having some kind of grand reopening event with good deals. I picked up a CB radio, onboard air setup, and new shocks, the guy at the counter tells me they're selling XRC 9,500 lb winches for $200 today only. Couldn't pass up that deal.... Been wanting to get a winch for the car hauler for a while, this fit the bill.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psdc3e89a3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...pse94b3089.jpg
The stock HEI distributor that I had added an MSD cap/rotor/module to when I built the 383 has worked okay for now but had started to go south even after adding new advance springs/weights. It also caused quite a bit of noise/interference with the Fast fuel injection even with using their module to convert it to a "clean" signal.
I picked up an MSD pro billet distributor, digital 6AL box, coil, and wires. No more ignition issues...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psb71518c9.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps5b362f26.jpg
I had gone through a couple fuel pumps over the past few years when fuel cell foam had broken up and gotten into the pump. So I rebuilt the fuel system, removed all of the fuel cell foam and added a pre-filter. Also went to a new Holley HP efi pump and ran the return line to the top of the cell instead of the bottom to prevent any chances of cavitation. (BTW- That's not a rat's nest of wires, they're just coiled up unused spares.)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psac2e840c.jpg
After 4 years of running the Fast gen 1 ez efi I have come to the conclusion that it works great for street cars but is not really meant for hardcore offroading. The ecm went south a couple years ago in Marble Falls and I had to ship it back to Fast. They fixed it and over the last couple years it's been running fine until going to load up for Alto. I could go on and list all the troubleshooting/changes/tech department calls that I've made but I digress. I'm having to send it back to Fast once again, problem is that it's a month turn around time.
So... I damn sure ain't missing Clayton. I had considered throwing an LS setup together with all the parts I have but the timeline, converting accessory brackets/pulleys, etc halted that. The bolt on efi market has really expanded and made big advancements in the last 5 years since running the Fast ez 1.0.
I decided on an MSD Atomic efi setup.... It's badass, fired up on the first try and with literally 10 minutes of idle/driving it runs better than it ever has. Once the Fast system returns from getting repaired I'll sell it or worst case get stuck with it and end up using it on something destined for the street/strip.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps2527fbd1.jpg
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The front driveshaft has seen better days and is now retired for spare duty. I picked up a new end yoke for the splined side and welded it up, also got another high clearance pinion yoke from WFO. So now I have a complete spare front setup from end to end if ever needed.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psa7be7d61.jpg
Comparison of a spicer 1350 yoke and WFO high clearance 1350 yoke. (Now I have 2 spare yokes in case someone else needs one)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps807eee1d.jpg
Called up Jesse at High Angle and ordered a new front driveshaft. Still an 18" long splined slip, 1350 cv flange at the Stak but went with a 38* 1410 pinion flange at the dana 60.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps4c91b407.jpg
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Had a new hood for a few years but hadn't gotten around to putting it on until now.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps8ca97700.jpg
Old shocks were toast, new Fox 2.0's all around. Built new shock mounts all around as well.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps96689e8d.jpg
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Picked up a 50" double row light bar from OZ lights for $280, it's bright as fawk....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps632748ab.jpg
Finally got around to installing the new winch line, Busa's splice in the old one has held up and makes for a great spare. Also replaced the old school headlights with some new KC's.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps8b2533c4.jpg
Overall view of the new work/swag....
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Badass Robbie! See you in a couple of weeks!
:gigem: